Back
[00:00:38] <Jymmm> http://static.trustedreviews.com/94/f41a30/43f0/710-lightscribe.jpg
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[00:01:27] <furrywolf> I could design it to be symmetrical with respect to the number of lug holes, and just repeat the same xy pattern then rotate the table 1/lugs... but having kins do it seems like a clever hack.
[00:03:41] <tjtr33> material feed isnt quite kins. i see it could be useful. but your machine is a Cframe? a gantry couldnt do this.
[00:04:12] <furrywolf> yes
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[00:04:28] <furrywolf> I have a mill, not a router.
[00:05:16] <furrywolf> I have about 11" of X and 10" of Y (which I can make 11 with some minor fab work), and need to cut out a ~16" round part.
[00:05:19] <tjtr33> many mills are gantry, esp big time mills.
[00:05:50] <furrywolf> if I had a big time mill, I wouldn't be having this issue. :P
[00:06:05] <tjtr33> i think you loose the work area outside of the swing, about 30+% of the old work rectangle, by using quadrant area
[00:06:27] <furrywolf> I think I have to rough-cut the part to be round first, yes. the corners would catch on the column.
[00:06:47] <PCW> MarkusBec: sure
[00:07:04] <furrywolf> although I probably could do something clever with moving the table all the way to a far corner, rotating the rotary table 90 degrees, then moving it back...
[00:07:24] <MarkusBec> PCW: an how can i install it
[00:07:58] <MarkusBec> there is no comp installed with linuxcnc-uspace-dev
[00:08:07] <PCW> no different than RTAI
[00:09:07] <furrywolf> actually, that probably would be a lot easier than custom kins... find some way to do all the work on one quadrant, move the table all the way to the ends of travel in both x and y, rotate the rotary table 90 degrees, move it back...
[00:09:13] <tjtr33> furrywolf, your last statement seems a simple work around, but you still need support, like on a table saw for all that stock. floorspace may become 4 of your machines.
[00:09:41] <tjtr33> and can be done with pins and a pivot
[00:09:51] <PCW> you may need the normal dev stuff not sure what all is included in linuxcnc-uspace-dev
[00:10:04] <andypugh> MarkusBec: Is it possible that you can’t find “comp” because it has been renamed to “halcompile” ?
[00:10:06] <furrywolf> I'm cutting 1/2" steel plate, with a not-very-rigid chinese machine. I'm not worried about the plate flexxing. :)
[00:10:17] <tjtr33> yes halcompile
[00:10:31] <dirty_d> furrywolf, what kind do you have?
[00:10:44] <MarkusBec> andypugh: ah
[00:11:06] <furrywolf> dirty_d: Shoptask lathe/mill combo
[00:11:23] <tjtr33> i cut a 40" dia 3/4 cold roll plate on a BP using a pivot and a big ass bar clamped to manually feed into cutter. :)
[00:11:29] <MarkusBec> renamed and not changed in the documantation
[00:11:52] <dirty_d> i was gonna say drill a hole in the center mount it on a peg, and rotate it as many times as you need to cut all the way around
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[00:12:07] <tjtr33> furrywolf, kick wheel for poters wheel back in the 70
[00:12:09] <tjtr33> s
[00:12:23] <dirty_d> should be good if the tolerance is relaxed
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[00:12:42] <Jymmm> http://www.disclose.tv/news/a_farmer_saw_a_hole_in_a_rock_but_the_inside_has_amazed_the_whole_world/115414?utm_content=buffer885fc&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer
[00:13:02] <MarkusBec> now it works ;)
[00:13:10] <furrywolf> I need really good tolerances. if manually repositioning, I'd need to either have a very accurate jig, or carefully re-align every time.
[00:13:45] <dirty_d> furrywolf, accurately placed holes in it or something else?
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[00:15:00] <furrywolf> dirty_d: it's a part of a truck rim. if it has any runout, or the lug holes aren't evenly spaced, bad things will happen.
[00:15:11] <furrywolf> Jymmm: too much sunlight to be called a cave.
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[00:16:00] <dirty_d> furrywolf, and its 16" and flat?
[00:16:05] <dirty_d> sounds wierd
[00:16:30] <furrywolf> it's a new center for a rim, to be welded in.
[00:16:33] <dirty_d> are you turning a truck into a tank?
[00:16:34] <dirty_d> lol
[00:16:40] <dirty_d> ahh
[00:17:20] <dirty_d> i think youd be good with a center peg for it to rotate on, then another once you drill one hole
[00:17:29] <dirty_d> so rotate and stick a pin in the lug hole
[00:17:34] <dirty_d> but youd need a fixture
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[00:17:38] <furrywolf> you can buy new wheelcenters for $65/each plus shipping online, but they're only 3/8" which seems a little thin, and that's a lot of money. :P
[00:17:43] <Cromaglious_> rotary table is the way to go...everything is centered on the lugs or offset 36 degrees?
[00:18:34] <tjtr33> does this 10"x11" mill cut steel well?
[00:18:59] <furrywolf> dunno. haven't tried yet. lol
[00:19:10] <furrywolf> everything does if you take thin enough cuts! :P
[00:19:54] <furrywolf> it's got a pair of 3/4hp motors and a reasonably wide range of belt positions, so it should be ok power-wise... reports online suggest you run into rigidity issues with deep/fast cuts.
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[00:20:43] <dirty_d> looks bigger than my mill
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[00:21:33] <furrywolf> http://fw.bushytails.net/shoptask02.jpg I should take a newer picture... it's now cnc and cleaner.
[00:21:47] <furrywolf> bbl, time to head off to work
[00:21:54] <dirty_d> nevermind, i was looking at soemthing else
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[00:24:28] <Jymmm> furrywolf: it's 85 miles long, I'm sure there is no sunlight in some areas =)
[00:24:35] <tjtr33> http://www.linuxcnc.org/index.php?option=com_lcncmap hey this used to have pix of our machines.
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[00:31:46] <Jymmm> furrywolf:
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/476-66920250-f183dabf91562248a03aec578efeb17d.4b7c80d7-scaled.jpg
[00:32:22] <Jymmm> that's pretty close to what I have.
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[00:47:27] <Cromaglious_> Jymmm: what is that circuit for?
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[02:24:43] <Jymmm> You've heard the old saying...
"It's hot enough to fry an egg on the sidewalk"
[02:24:43] <Jymmm> Well...
How about scramble an egg on a flashlight:
[02:24:43] <Jymmm> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsIHyRyETKg
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[02:27:18] <renesis> need to cover it and add water so the tops cook before the yolk hardens
[02:27:39] <renesis> ew scrambled wtf
[02:27:53] <renesis> hes mixing it too much
[02:27:57] <renesis> this guy cant cook
[02:29:14] <Jymmm> lmao
[02:29:40] <renesis> haha, top comment agrees
[02:31:17] <furrywolf> just pulled the load binder out of the electrolysis bucket to see how it looks... it's definitely progressing, not done yet. it was doing very little bubbling. I replaced the solution, and it's still not doing much bubbling. I think my charger might suck, but there's too many mosquitos out now to take a meter to it.
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[02:32:26] <furrywolf> Jymmm: what's with the backwards led? heh
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[02:48:56] <Jymmm> Dumbasses
http://abc11.com/education/school-suspends-boy-for-possession-of-a-leaf/561813/
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[02:58:06] <furrywolf> sounds about typical.
[03:03:39] <LeelooMinai> "under the school board's anti-drug policies, it may not matter whether the leaf was marijuana or not"... lol
[03:05:25] <furrywolf> that's typical too. many of those policies only require someone to believe something, rather than any actual evidence.
[03:07:41] <LeelooMinai> " they mistakenly thought to be marijuana in his backpack" ... So who believed that, the boy or them?
[03:07:58] <furrywolf> and most of them are set up so the school is right by default, and you don't get to argue.
[03:09:44] <LeelooMinai> I guess I should not seek any logic in news articles
[03:09:52] <LeelooMinai> "A Japanese maple leaf, thought to resemble a cannabis leaf. " ... lol @ thought of
[03:10:40] <furrywolf> hopefully they end up with a sane judge, who awards substantial damages.
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[03:19:08] <furrywolf> if that happens, the school will, of course, write up a press release about how the child-hating judge is trying to prevent the hard-working administration from being able to keep the school safe...
[03:23:38] <MarkusBec> PCW: pcw_home is it possible to use .write_gpio in a faster thread with the mesa 7i92?
[03:24:05] <pcw_home> No
[03:24:41] <MarkusBec> is there any workaround?
[03:25:04] <MarkusBec> running write in a faster thread?
[03:25:11] <MarkusBec> and tune all parameters?
[03:25:14] <pcw_home> a base thread is typically never needed for mesa interfaces
[03:25:40] <pcw_home> what are you trying to do?
[03:26:03] <MarkusBec> https://github.com/bjj/2x_laser/tree/5i25
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[03:26:15] <MarkusBec> modulating a laser for laserengraving
[03:26:59] <MarkusBec> with the 5i25 it use write_gpio for fast update
[03:28:35] <pcw_home> why not use PWM?
[03:30:50] <MarkusBec> pwm is used to set the power
[03:31:49] <MarkusBec> and a compare of the position-fb and a table generats the dots for raster engraving
[03:31:54] <pcw_home> using GPIO and a base thread is a somewhat odd way to do PWM if you have a hardware PWM generator
[03:32:24] <MarkusBec> HW pwm is used for the laser power
[03:33:34] <furrywolf> PCW: I think he's trying to write actual data quickly, not just repetitive pwm.
[03:33:49] <MarkusBec> yes
[03:38:48] <MarkusBec> https://twitter.com/markusbec/status/578037667239239681
[03:39:10] <MarkusBec> https://twitter.com/MarkusBec/status/578037744779313152/photo/1
[03:45:21] <MarkusBec> pcw_home: any idea how to solve this
[03:45:33] <pcw_home> as far as i can tell the pulse only occurs at the servo thread rate
[03:47:07] <MarkusBec> and there is no way with the 7i92 to write faster to the gpios?
[03:47:17] <pcw_home> no
[03:47:53] <pcw_home> well it can write at 200 MHz or so with the correct module
[03:48:43] <pcw_home> and hardware gear it to the stepgen
[03:48:54] <furrywolf> grrrr. just broke a CFL.
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[03:50:35] <furrywolf> I broke the cfl removing it to put an LED bulb in its place. I will be glad when I have no more cfls.
[03:52:19] <MarkusBec> it think stepgenn will be the best fit without coding a module for the fpga
[03:52:24] <pcw_home> so FPGA module:
[03:52:25] <pcw_home> hardware position (encoder or stepgen) --> rate multiplier --> clock out raster data FIFO --> Oneshot --> laser
[03:55:30] <MarkusBec> hmm
[03:55:37] <pcw_home> plus raster start/stop comparators. misc logic
[03:56:41] <pcw_home> basically a painting module
[03:58:26] * furrywolf wonders if pcw is volunteering to write this. :)
[03:59:39] <pcw_home> Ive considered it for someone wanting a laser plotter engine replacement
[04:00:10] <pcw_home> and for inkjet applications
[04:00:29] <furrywolf> I bought an LED bulb on ebay, ordered warm white, got cool white... the seller asked me for a photo to prove I got cool white.
http://fw.bushytails.net/LED%20Filament%20Bulbs%2001.jpg if anyone wants to see what LED Filament Bulbs look like.
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[04:03:27] <pcw_home> seems like the LEDS would run pretty hot
[04:03:53] <pcw_home> (no heatsink helium filled?)
[04:04:23] <furrywolf> I saw a mention once they might be inert gas filled, but it sounded like speculation rather than proof.
[04:04:51] <Jymmm> Nice comparison photo
[04:04:55] <pcw_home> hydrogen or helium would get the heat out to the bulb better
[04:05:14] <Jymmm> pcw_home: how's that?
[04:05:26] <furrywolf> they're very cute... the camera doesn't show it well, but the warm white one is very warm, and a surprisingly good recreation of the antique low-temp bulbs.
[04:05:28] <MarkusBec> pcw_home: is ther a sample configuration available
[04:05:40] <pcw_home> for 7i92?
[04:05:51] <MarkusBec> or any other mesa
[04:06:03] <Jymmm> furrywolf: how much?
[04:06:23] <furrywolf> Jymmm: $6.something for the 6 watt, $8.something for the 8 watt.
[04:06:32] <furrywolf> they jump up to $20 for a 10w, so didn't get one. heh.
[04:06:41] <Jymmm> furrywolf: anything smaller than 6w?
[04:07:29] <furrywolf> yes, I saw 2w and 4w for sale too.
[04:07:31] <Cromaglious> furrywolf, you been thinking about the rotary table?
[04:07:36] <furrywolf> I want useful amounts of light, however. :P
[04:07:39] <furrywolf> Cromaglious: not since earlier
[04:07:47] <Jymmm> furrywolf: I need that "low temp" glow look. I tried reducing voltage on some 12v automotivebulbs but WAY TOO HOT
[04:08:11] <Cromaglious> I was asking are the lightening holes in line with the lugs or offset 36 degrees?
[04:08:53] <furrywolf> Jymmm: these won't run off 12V without an inverter.
[04:09:15] <furrywolf> the led "filaments" are 75v working voltage, so it'd take more than trying to bypass the driver. heh.
[04:09:35] <MarkusBec> pcw_home: for engraving or was it only a draft?
[04:09:59] <pcw_home> plate exposure
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[04:10:27] <furrywolf> Jymmm: do you want candle-style or globe-style?
[04:10:33] <pcw_home> (MHz modulation rates)
[04:11:07] <furrywolf> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2W-4W-110V-220V-E14-E27-LED-Vintage-Filament-Lamp-Warm-White-Light-Candle-Bulb-/131417337154 has several candle-style
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[04:12:12] <furrywolf> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Led-Lamp-Tungsten-Filament-Globe-Bulb-110V-220V-COB-110V-220V-2W-4W-E27-E14-/201260347308 more
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[04:12:53] <MarkusBec> pcw_home: is this hal configuration available as a example?
[04:12:54] <Jymmm> furrywolf: I actually don't need it to be LED, just would be nice for the low voltage aspects. Even an car tail light bulb would be fine. I just want that "glow" about it, not really for lighting purposes.
[04:13:28] <furrywolf> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Retro-Edison-E27-Bright-110V-Screw-LED-Filament-Office-Light-Bulb-ST64-/261752297202 you can get that shape too
[04:13:51] <pcw_home> not sure what you are asking, sample mesa configs have been provided with linuxcnc since ~2006
[04:14:19] <Jymmm> furrywolf: I like the shape in your pic.
[04:14:40] <Jymmm> furrywolf: I hate edison, that bastard
[04:15:04] <furrywolf> you can get them down to 2W, and you can buy the LED elements not in a bulb... but you'll need to rig up a little inverter to power them.
[04:15:40] <furrywolf> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1W-COB-LED-Filament-Light-Source-for-LED-Bulb-Globe-Candle-Light-Warm-White-DF-/331410418772 just the emitters
[04:16:10] <pcw_home> looks like helium has about 6 times the thermal conductivity of air (hydrogen is a bit better)
[04:16:16] <furrywolf> Voltage: DC 50-60V/15mA that's the part that makes them hard to use for low-voltage purposes
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[04:16:57] <Jymmm> pcw_home: ah
[04:17:17] <Jymmm> furrywolf: Hmmm, the VOBs aren't current driven like most leds?
[04:17:22] <Jymmm> COBs
[04:17:41] <furrywolf> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1W-COB-LED-Filament-Light-Source-LED-Bulb-Globe-Candle-Light-Pure-Warm-White-DIY-/131381416913 those look more like the ones in the lamps I have
[04:18:00] <furrywolf> they're current-driven, but they still take a certain voltage to work.
[04:18:08] <pcw_home> the high speed laser modulator is not something supported by linuxcnc (needs DMA etc)
[04:18:23] <furrywolf> I'd guess that at 50-60V, there's 15ish dies in series in each module
[04:19:14] <furrywolf> if you buy them, note that there's a huge color difference between the warm white and cool white emitters. the phosphor is light yellow on the cool white, and dark orange on the warm white.
[04:19:47] <MarkusBec> pcw_home: you sad something about laser plotter engine replacement you considered about, was it just a idear/draft or is there any sample configuration/hal available
[04:19:48] <pcw_home> freeby.mesanet.com/7i92step.zip is an example step/dir config file set for the 7I92
[04:20:04] <pcw_home> its not a linuxcnc thing
[04:20:12] <MarkusBec> ah ok
[04:20:15] <pcw_home> (laser modulator)
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[04:21:03] <pcw_home> but a slower one could be made for linuxcnc
[04:21:14] <Jymmm> furrywolf: Yeah, no wories there. I'd rather have a incadesent bulb, but when I put 6v to a 12v bulb it gets REAL hot
[04:21:38] <furrywolf> it's still cooler than if you run it off 12V.
[04:21:55] <Jymmm> furrywolf: burned my finger
[04:22:04] <MarkusBec> do you think its possible only with existing fpga moduls
[04:22:07] <furrywolf> have you forgotten that incandescent bulbs work by heating the filiament until it glows white hot? :)
[04:22:08] <MarkusBec> like stepgen
[04:22:28] <Jymmm> furrywolf: thus why I kept stepping the voltage down down down
[04:23:03] <Jymmm> furrywolf: I need to find a 12V nightlught
[04:23:45] <Jymmm> Hmmm, maybe those old gauge cluster bulbs
[04:24:05] <furrywolf> what're you building, anyway?
[04:24:31] <Jymmm> furrywolf: just an art project. I want the glow of the element showing
[04:25:10] <Jymmm> I could do 10VAC, just rther not is all
[04:25:16] <Jymmm> 110VAC
[04:26:07] <furrywolf> how about a random glass vacuum tube, and 6.3vac? :)
[04:26:17] <furrywolf> if retro is the goal...
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[04:26:42] <Jymmm> 6.3v for the heating element?
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[04:26:49] <furrywolf> yes
[04:27:03] <Jymmm> could be DC too, right?
[04:27:24] <furrywolf> yes
[04:28:15] <Jymmm> is 6.3 the required operating voltage, as in what makes tubes HOT ?
[04:28:29] <Jymmm> or is that the grid voltage that makes them hot?
[04:28:54] <furrywolf> 6.3vac is the standard filament voltage, why I do not know...
[04:29:22] <Jymmm> furrywolf: The problem have is I can't have THAT much heat that it would be a burn/fire hazerd
[04:30:05] <furrywolf> how about a white led and an orange gel? heh
[04:30:18] <furrywolf> (gel of the color variety, not the squishy variety)
[04:30:26] <Jymmm> lol
[04:31:00] <Jymmm> I like the tube idea though, but I think it be the same thing as a lightbulb
[04:31:06] <Jymmm> heat wise
[04:31:39] <furrywolf> they'll feel a lot cooler, due to the large glass area relative to the wattage.
[04:32:03] <Jymmm> yeah, it might work, still give that retro feel
[04:32:11] <Jymmm> ty for the idea
[04:32:56] * furrywolf still has no idea what this art project is
[04:33:57] <Jymmm> That makes two of us actually. Just outting some randoms thoughts together and see what comes out the other end.
[04:34:06] <Jymmm> putting*
[04:34:41] <furrywolf> lol
[04:35:46] <Jymmm> That's why it's called art ;)
[04:36:30] <Jymmm> Ya put shit together, slap on an insane price tag, and you have art !!!
[04:38:16] <furrywolf> get a pile of those led filaments, some glass blowing supplies, and make yourself a giant warm-white light bulb with a whole bunch of zigzagging filaments, like really old ones...
[04:39:32] <Jymmm> heh, yeah, we want to keep me away from high heat torches, really.
[04:39:56] <Jymmm> propane is about as high as we go
[04:40:07] <furrywolf> lol
[04:41:56] <Jymmm> I did my pyro play for the year already =)
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[04:42:36] <furrywolf> bbl, wolfy bedtime
[04:42:45] <Jymmm> laters
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[04:51:58] <Cromaglious> CNC 2.5D for sketchup has issues... trying to make a center finder
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[05:14:41] <Cromaglious> it'll cut the top, it'll surface, it won't cut the lower profile
http://itslinux.org/cnc/skp/ll
[05:14:49] <Cromaglious> it'll cut the top, it'll surface, it won't cut the lower profile
http://itslinux.org/cnc/skp/
[05:15:07] <Cromaglious> oops gotta upload
[05:15:22] <Cromaglious> sucks when your used to having the web site hosted at home
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[05:31:51] <Cromaglious> YEAH! ,htaccess works!
[05:32:18] <Cromaglious> http://itslinux.org/cnc/skp/
[05:36:57] <Cromaglious> that saves a bunch of work
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[07:36:52] <MacGalempsy> anyone having fun yet?
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[07:48:30] <Deejay> moin
[07:55:58] <Cromaglious> mac! Deejay!
[07:56:07] <Deejay> hi there :)
[07:56:34] <Cromaglious> getting things working in Sketchup to generate G Code
[07:57:30] <Cromaglious> made some radiation Sign pendants, 4 1/2" gear, big 21" 7 tooth "gear" for a Wig/Hat stand for the booth
[07:58:13] <Cromaglious> Sketchup just crashed again
[07:59:42] <Cromaglious> http://itslinux.org/cnc and
http://itslinux.org/cnc/skp both have .htaccess fancyindex working.. So I can just upload file and not update index.html
[08:01:59] <archivist> strange gear shapes
http://itslinux.org/cnc/gear7.bmp
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[08:05:48] <Cromaglious> The Bottom U is the gear between the teeth, the top straight lines was to get the machining line outside the circle
[08:06:29] <Cromaglious> I didn't tweak things to get it to do rapids over the top
[08:07:16] <Cromaglious> 21" diamter 7 tooth gear
[08:08:30] <Cromaglious> I barely had room on the 3040 to cut those... I had 3/8" between the gantry and the edge of the circle of plywood
[08:09:45] <archivist> the curves? arcs or involute
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[08:11:02] <Cromaglious> what ever gear generator makes into the dxf and freedxf imports with into sketchup
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[09:49:49] <XXCoder1> itslinux!
[09:50:05] <XXCoder1> Cromaglious: finally see gears
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[11:18:13] <_methods> http://www.reuters.com/article/2015/03/18/us-microsoft-china-idUSKBN0ME06A20150318
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[11:46:30] <malcom2073> _methods: Nice, wonderif it'll be available outside of china too? couldn't tell from the article
[11:47:06] <malcom2073> I wonder how many people, who are using non-legit versions of Windows right now, will upgrade and actually pay for their office software? I'd assume people using non-legit versions of windows, also use non-legit verisons of their office
[11:49:44] <Tom_itx> if you have 7 or 8, 10 is a free upgrade also
[11:50:37] <malcom2073> Ok, didn't catch it was worldwide, nice
[11:50:45] <malcom2073> I got 8 for free for my tablet which as nice
[11:50:53] <Tom_itx> makes you wonder what they put in 10
[11:51:02] <malcom2073> Probably all sorts of links to their online pay services
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[11:55:21] <Tom_itx> maybe they hired a rogue linux programmer and put him in marketing by accident
[11:57:12] <malcom2073> There's a futurama-fry meme here for this situation I beleive.
[11:58:40] <Tom_itx> local pc guy had a copy of 10
[11:58:53] <malcom2073> I've not tried it yet
[11:58:55] <malcom2073> is it any good?
[11:58:59] <malcom2073> Like, for desktops
[11:59:03] <Tom_itx> i didn't look at it
[11:59:08] <Tom_itx> it's like 8
[11:59:25] <Tom_itx> with a menu that pops up the apps like 8 does with small icons
[11:59:30] <malcom2073> I like 8 on my tablet, I find it unusable on my desktop
[11:59:37] <Tom_itx> no real side menu afik
[11:59:49] <malcom2073> Worth a shot at least
[11:59:52] <Tom_itx> that's why i got 7
[12:00:09] <malcom2073> Yeah I use 7 on my work pc
[12:00:50] <Tom_itx> i still use xp pro on most everything
[12:02:19] <malcom2073> I moved to 7 for the more widespread 64bit support, I still use XP on my kids PC since it's older
[12:05:12] <_methods> i'm trying to totally phase out windows and just run it in vm's when i need it
[12:05:28] <malcom2073> I'd love to do that, but I do windows development for work so.... meh heh
[12:05:43] <_methods> i still keep one computer with it on there for heavy modeling/gaming
[12:05:44] <_methods> hehe
[12:05:46] <malcom2073> I wound up using it at home more nowadays anyway, got tired of tinkering with linux
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[12:23:37] <_methods> well free is an interesting step for them
[12:23:46] <_methods> it must suck even more than win8
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[12:35:34] <archivist> 8 is not fit for purpose, 7 is as far as I shall go probably
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[12:46:53] <skunkworks> installing classic shell on 8 makes it slightly usable
[12:51:37] <archivist> I think 8 was the classic going for the new "bling" completely forgetting a large section of the user base
[12:54:37] <archivist> reminds me of Apples crab apple of a laptop, where one of the standard programming keys is just not there
[13:11:00] * Loetmichel2 is just at the second try to mill an aluiminium enclosure fpr a KVM switch... first ry hat some holes too big, one side of the PCB mirrored in the enclosure, some measurements wrong... i am getting better, had times when i had to do 5 prototypes until one fits... not its down to two ;-)
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[14:38:49] <furrywolf> so, half the internet says if I use stainless for my electrolysis bucket, I won't need to scrape and replace it constantly. the other half says this produces tons of chromium compounds and I'll die horribly.
[14:39:22] <archivist> scare mongering
[14:39:33] <SpeedEvil> They are not differing.
[14:39:41] <SpeedEvil> If you die horribly, you don't need to replace the bucket
[14:40:07] <malcom2073> Heh
[14:40:19] <furrywolf> lol
[14:40:24] <archivist> do you die horribly in public swimming baths
[14:40:31] <furrywolf> I meant as the anode, not the bucket... bucket is plastic. heh.
[14:42:02] <archivist> and all that chrome on your car bumper and in the kitchen sink, it will kill?
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[14:43:38] <furrywolf> I generally avoid running large amounts of power through either my car bumper or my kitchen sink.
[14:43:54] <Jymmm> liar
[14:46:27] <furrywolf> I checked the chain binder last night, and it had made significant progress, but wasn't done yet. put it back in the bucket turned at a different angle. also having a hard time getting every part clean... I used a bunch of jumper wires to connect different parts, but two parts apparantly didn't have contact from the clip, and were only marginally cleaned.
[14:57:29] <SpeedEvil> this isn't on whole part?
[14:58:35] <furrywolf> the chain binder consists of several components, such as a handle, a couple chain rings, a swivel, hooks, etc. when covered in rust, they're not connected to each other. I used a bunch of jumpers to connect to each part.
[15:02:20] <SpeedEvil> ah
[15:02:32] <SpeedEvil> hitting it with a hammer a lot first can be useful
[15:03:52] <furrywolf> grrr, the ebay seller who sent me the wrong bulb is now offering me a 50% refund instead of a replacement bulb.
[15:04:20] <SpeedEvil> sigh
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[15:07:08] <furrywolf> hitting it with a hammer won't make rusty links of chain connect to each other well. :)
[15:08:08] <archivist> small sharp tap, not lump hammer
[15:08:53] <furrywolf> http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/2000x2000/143/143113_2000x2000.jpg similar to one of those. note how many separate parts it has.
[15:09:05] <Jymmm> furrywolf: You just need a bigger hammer
http://www.pile.com/pdi/images/dropHammers/fullsize/40%20ton%20hammer.jpg
[15:09:18] <SpeedEvil> :)
[15:10:28] <furrywolf> I got a couple buckets-o-chain at a yard sale, and one of them had a pair of nice us-made load binders, but one of the two was really rusty... decided it'd be a good test of electrolysis rust removal.
[15:10:46] <furrywolf> and it was saltwater rust too. thick and black.
[15:11:27] <Jymmm> furrywolf: Are you still talking about chain or dildos (again)?
[15:11:31] * SpeedEvil idly wonders about heating to ~140C and dipping rust in molten sodium
[15:11:44] <archivist> twisted knot wire brush on an angle grinder, get the bulk off
[15:11:58] <furrywolf> normally I'd have declared it not-worth-cleaning, both due to its still being functional and due to its low value, but I wanted to try electrolysis rust removal, and it seemed like an excellent test item.
[15:12:21] <furrywolf> no angle grinders! the whole point is minimal manual labor. heh.
[15:12:32] <archivist> rust is an insulator I think
[15:14:47] <furrywolf> it made good progress... had the electricity on for about 24 hours probably. another 24 hours and it might be ready for paint. or, since I'm lazy, a soaking in wd40 and calling it good.
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[15:15:51] <SpeedEvil> If you bang it around a bit, it's likely that you'l get eventually bit-bit conduction without clips
[15:16:17] <furrywolf> the cleaned parts had a coating of black glop... most of it washed off with the garden hose, but it probably will need a scour pad or something to finish the job.
[15:16:50] <SpeedEvil> Sandblasters are magic. (tm)
[15:18:20] <furrywolf> and fucking horribly unpleasant. you ever used one? heh
[15:20:03] <SpeedEvil> Yeah - the key to a sandblaster is a good quality blasting cabinet, proper dustmask, gloves, ear-protection and someone else to do it.
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[15:21:12] <furrywolf> especially the last part.
[15:21:27] <furrywolf> last thing I blasted was a pair of truck axles... they didn't fit in a cabinet.
[15:22:27] <archivist> I spent days with an angle grinder on a trailer chassis
[15:23:14] <furrywolf> I saw someone clean a trailer chasis with electrolysis once... an inflatable pool, a welder, and a big bucket of baking soda.
[15:23:15] <archivist> needle gun for the internal corners
[15:23:24] <furrywolf> or maybe it was a truck chasis. I think it was a truck.
[15:24:29] <furrywolf> I lent my needle gun to someone. I'll probably never see it again.
[15:28:05] <furrywolf> one of these days I might do a cab-off restoration on my jeep... I'll probably copy that idea. letting it soak for a week is a muuuuuch better plan than manually derusting. :)
[15:30:11] <_Sync_> have it CO2 blasted
[15:30:16] <archivist> somewhere I have a museum journal where the technique was first being tested on delicate/important stuff
[15:30:19] <furrywolf> that's expensive.
[15:30:22] <_Sync_> the expense is better than doing it yourself
[15:30:34] <_Sync_> I'd rather pay someone 2k than messing with it for weeks
[15:30:37] <furrywolf> also, it's a rust bucket, and I don't plan on fixing the body...
[15:31:30] <_Sync_> yeah we had a friends 6 series blasted.... the whole underpan came out
[15:31:47] <_Sync_> that was a fun fix
[15:31:54] <furrywolf> mine isn't that bad. and I hid a lot of it with the magic of foil tape and carpet. :P
[15:32:04] <_Sync_> well
[15:32:10] <_Sync_> it did not look that bad
[15:32:18] <_Sync_> but the seam welds are notorious
[15:32:25] <_Sync_> and then I started poking at it more
[15:32:29] <_Sync_> and *pop*
[15:32:37] <furrywolf> mine was fine except for the corners under the dash
[15:32:39] <_Sync_> the rear half basically fell out
[15:33:04] <furrywolf> the bed has some holes too, but they'll get a piece of steel tacked over them, not anything fancy.
[15:33:31] <SpeedEvil> Steel? Fancy
[15:33:55] <furrywolf> you try tacking anything else to steel. :P
[15:33:58] <furrywolf> bbl, time for work
[15:34:11] <SpeedEvil> bondo
[15:34:46] <_Sync_> and at the next bump it'll fall off
[15:34:50] <furrywolf> my bed doesn't have any hollow areas to hide bondo. it's just one layer of heavy-gauge steel.
[15:34:57] <_Sync_> like the tank on one of my motorcycles
[15:35:00] <_Sync_> somebody tanked it
[15:35:14] <_Sync_> and remodelled maybe 2 inches of tank with filler
[15:35:19] <_Sync_> fell off at some point
[15:35:25] <_Sync_> I was like ??????
[15:35:33] <furrywolf> my tank had a couple rust holes where the rust holes in the bed had let water drip onto it continually... I had a radiator shop solder copper sheet over them.
[15:35:33] <furrywolf> bbl
[15:35:48] <_Sync_> but fits the whole condition of the thing
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[16:00:45] <dirty_d> anyone tried this?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Refractories/
[16:01:07] <dirty_d> trying to think of the easiest adn cheapest way to be able to heat treat small things
[16:02:12] <Loetmichel2> *ha*, work of 2 days done... KVM switch in EMI safe enclosure... and only needed two prototypes to get it (nearly ) right ;-) ->
http://www.cyrom.org/palbum/main.php?g2_itemId=15714 (click picture to see it fullsize)
[16:02:36] Loetmichel2 is now known as Loetmichel
[16:15:56] <dirty_d> hmm, what about an oven made with an old tall stainless steel pot inside a larger metal barrel or something, with pearlite between them for insulation?
[16:15:59] <unfy> dirty: there are folks here who have done things like this yes
[16:16:29] <dirty_d> weld some studs in the pot to mount heater coils on
[16:16:59] <dirty_d> then youd never have to worry about anything cracking, because the pearlite is just loose
[16:17:11] <unfy> if you're gonna look into an electric one - gingerly's lil bertha, or dan's workshop improved electric shop furnace
[16:17:20] <dirty_d> ill take a look
[16:17:24] <unfy> do note that electric will have much longer heat times and is a bit more fragile
[16:17:43] <dirty_d> how would you do temperature control with gas?
[16:17:45] <unfy> dan's workshop thing is like a $4 pdf - but well worth the cost if you're seriously thinking about building one
[16:17:58] <dirty_d> besides manually
[16:18:15] <unfy> more or less same way with a gas drill, assuming your burner isn't just 'full blast all the time anyway'
[16:18:27] <unfy> gas grill even
[16:18:52] <dirty_d> actually yea, you really only need to manually set it once to find the temp youre looking for, then like draw a marking for that temperature i guess
[16:18:55] <unfy> annnnndddd... without work, i don't think you'll hit steel melting temps very easily anyway
[16:19:05] <dirty_d> oh i dont wanna melt
[16:19:11] <dirty_d> just need like 1600F for heat treating
[16:19:42] <dirty_d> gas it is
[16:19:58] <unfy> then an electrical system might be appropriate. you'll have to use kanthal wire though. nicrome wont get hot enough
[16:20:23] <unfy> i dunno how how much temp control you get out of gas ... i'd ask around
[16:20:39] <archivist> getting a few sheets of the insulating material is not that expensive, on a par with making your own probably
[16:21:02] <unfy> perlite + high temp mortar runs around $75
[16:21:02] <dirty_d> archivist, what kind of material?
[16:21:18] <unfy> i forget how much rockwool can withstand
[16:21:29] <archivist> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-x-Vermiculite-Villager-stove-fire-brick-4-5-x-9-/280835077430
[16:21:29] <dirty_d> and im assuming there is just some kind of propane burner i can find on ebay that will work
[16:21:53] <unfy> that price is a little high but not too bad, archivist
[16:22:03] <unfy> at least, compared to here in the states :D
[16:22:17] <archivist> first I found
[16:22:31] <unfy> dirty: building your own prolly wouldn't be a bad idea... or buying one from a place
[16:22:42] <dirty_d> burner?
[16:22:47] <archivist> I want to make a small furnace for bluing one day
[16:22:56] <unfy> indeed. your gas burner is easy to build.
[16:23:18] <unfy> it's just some metal & brass pipe from hardware store :)
[16:23:39] <archivist> for some work you dont want some types of gas
[16:23:51] <unfy> dirty: what size volume do you need to heat ?
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[16:24:28] <unfy> because depending on temp and size, there are ALOT of plans for small electric kilns used for knife making etc
[16:24:32] <dirty_d> unfy, probably nothing taht would take more space than a beer bottle
[16:24:52] <unfy> knife kilns would be worth a look then
[16:25:24] <unfy> those can be built using a half dozen or dozen fire bricks, a bit of time, and some resistance wire, and stuff
[16:25:52] <dirty_d> im kinda leaning towards just using propane and a thermocouple and manually setting it
[16:26:04] <archivist> we used to stand over the item looking for the colour, then move it
[16:26:04] <dirty_d> seems like it would be less of a headache
[16:26:48] <unfy> just as a way of example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en4yhzLuD9A
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[16:27:25] <archivist> funky blue if you get it right
http://www.collection.archivist.info/searchv13.php?searchstr=hands
[16:27:45] <unfy> dirty: going gas might possibly be faster. forming the refactory is fairly quick. building or buying a burner is quick. propane aint TOO expensive, etc.
[16:28:23] <dirty_d> tahts pretty neat
[16:28:25] <unfy> do expect to be $200 into it at the very least no matter what. mostly because you'll prolly make "learning mistakes" :)
[16:28:47] <archivist> we use an old domestic hotplate
[16:28:55] <archivist> used
[16:29:17] <unfy> yup, i got a hotplate i'll be using for mid sized powder coat oven :)
[16:30:10] <dirty_d> i think ill make one just like in that video
[16:30:13] <unfy> dirty: the key for refactory is to let it thoroughly dry. like, a week at least. and then VERY SLOWLY bring it up to temp the first time around. as in "over the course of a day"...
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[16:30:26] <archivist> I use a gas torch for cherry red and hardening though
[16:30:36] <unfy> dirty: kanthal wire prolly required to hit 1600f, just a heads up.
[16:30:49] <unfy> kanthal a1 can be had on ebay. you'll get a headache :)
[16:31:39] <unfy> doing a lot of research and talking to other more knowledgeable folks than me, and maybe just buying a kit... would prolly go a long way
[16:32:12] <dirty_d> archivist, arent you supposed to hold it at temp for a while?
[16:32:25] <dirty_d> like an hour?
[16:32:27] <archivist> if annealing yes
[16:32:36] <dirty_d> i thought for hardening too
[16:33:27] <archivist> depends I would say, I am usually making small tooling
[16:34:11] <archivist> you would never see a blacksmith holding a part at cherry red for an hour
[16:34:33] <dirty_d> hmm
[16:34:46] <dirty_d> what is k23/k26
[16:34:51] <dirty_d> the temperature rating?
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[16:39:21] <dirty_d> this is exactly what id need huh?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BNZ-23-HS-Insulating-Firebrick-9x4-5x-2-5-IFB-Fire-Brick-/251745254860?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9d2fbdcc
[16:39:55] <dirty_d> box of 12 for $40
[16:39:55] <dirty_d> and the soft insulating kind
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[16:46:49] <dirty_d> i actually would like this to make knives and stuff
[16:46:56] <dirty_d> still stuck on workholding
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[17:00:14] <CaptHindsight> K-23 Insulating Brick (2300°F)
[17:00:22] <CaptHindsight> K-26 Insulating Brick (2600°F)
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[17:00:30] <archivist> dirty_d, work holding can be very hard for some types of work, often need to add some form of support
[17:02:38] <archivist> I used sacrificial support here (last image)
http://www.collection.archivist.info/searchv13.php?searchstr=merlin+clock+worm
[17:04:35] <unfy> dirty: if you're in the states, go to some local hardware stores. they might have firebrick in the furnace sections etc. i've found firebrick at menards, tractor supply company, ace, and home depot before
[17:05:53] <CaptHindsight> http://midwestreprapfest.org/ "Caution: Avoid prolonged exposure"
[17:06:08] <archivist> in the UK domestic fireplaces have their own stores too where you can get spares, bricks and fire cement
[17:06:13] <dirty_d> unfy, they have the light soft kind?
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[17:06:17] <malcom2073> Whups, I meant to go to MRRF
[17:06:21] <malcom2073> totally forgot about it haha
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[17:07:36] <_methods> they had firebrick at northern tool
[17:07:41] <_methods> not sure what temp it's good to
[17:07:59] <unfy> dirty: won't know until you take a look
[17:08:33] <unfy> it's a very store / regional dependent thing no doubt
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[17:10:16] <SolarNRG> quick question: I plugged my welder into an old 4 gang lead extension so I could weld outside today, had no problems for about 5 minutes then as I was generating a nice big puddle the welder died, tested everything it was the gangway extension lead, I was running at 115amps the welder lead isn't long enough to reach indoors by itself, any suggestions?
[17:10:28] <SolarNRG> oh and I can't weld inside I'll set my house alight for sure
[17:11:29] <Connor> Get a heavy duty extension cord ?
[17:11:38] <archivist> too simple
[17:11:39] <SolarNRG> I got a rediculous 50m one
[17:11:49] <Connor> 50m ?
[17:11:55] <SolarNRG> ive been warned about hi amps and leaving it coiled up
[17:12:02] <SolarNRG> it's like 3m from the socket onto my balcony
[17:12:18] <SolarNRG> maybe 4 once its gone round the corner of the door
[17:12:31] <Connor> Like I said. got buy a shorter, heavy duty rated one.
[17:12:34] <Connor> or make one.
[17:12:42] <SolarNRG> i got cooker wire, any use?
[17:12:46] <archivist> you really asking about an extension cable?
[17:13:09] <Connor> cooker wire? what's the gauge of the wire ?
[17:13:17] <SolarNRG> yeah but just a makeshift one I can make with stuff lying around as I'm broke and I'm welding a giant TV stand for someone to make 40 bucks
[17:13:22] <_methods> unicorn hair?
[17:13:24] <archivist> 6mm usually
[17:13:29] <SolarNRG> oh its big beaft single core stuff
[17:13:39] <_methods> legendary conductor
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[17:15:57] <renesis> get two power strips
[17:16:21] <SolarNRG> so if I unscrew the dead ganglead, wire it up with the cooker wire to the plug and just one of the sockets, and I just bridge the fuse with some soldered single core wire would that work?
[17:16:33] <renesis> get two three foot extensions, very short, plug from power strip into two outlet wall plate
[17:16:49] <renesis> now, take four (!) extension cords and plug into one power strip
[17:16:57] <renesis> wait my plan is breaking down
[17:17:10] <SolarNRG> Oh so I draw current from multiple sockets to power one welder?
[17:17:15] <renesis> youre supposed to plug the other end of the four extension cords into the other power strip
[17:17:19] <renesis> but thats not gonna work
[17:17:34] <renesis> yeah i figure use the power strip as bus bars haha
[17:17:45] <SolarNRG> I think the welder although it has variable ampage when welding it'll draw from mains something like 16a
[17:17:53] <renesis> you just need a heavier gauge extension
[17:18:15] <renesis> yeah it converts to very low voltage high current
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[17:18:33] <archivist> SolarNRG, you are too dangerous, get a professional
[17:18:34] <renesis> so wall draw isnt nearly as much put its prob close to max draw for standard outlets
[17:19:37] <SolarNRG> archivist, professionals cost money, money I haven't got, but I can get money just by welding this stupid stand, I've already drilled the holes perfect for the big TV but the welder's too short to reach outside and all
[17:20:01] <renesis> i dont think you should weld inside
[17:20:05] <SolarNRG> I got are these sillly girly extensions designed for girls desklights and sewing machine thingies, not manly beefy industrial heavy duty extension leads
[17:20:23] <_methods> jumper cable
[17:20:27] <SolarNRG> I didn't I did it on the balcony where I have loads of concrete blocks supporting a giant plate of steel
[17:20:28] <_methods> or unicorn heair
[17:20:33] <renesis> you need a 15A earthed cable minimum
[17:20:39] <renesis> the 10A cables might melt
[17:20:49] <SolarNRG> you think that's what happened?
[17:20:52] <renesis> most likely the ends will catch fire
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[17:21:06] <renesis> i thought you already diagnosed as the extension cable?
[17:21:15] <_methods> lol
[17:21:16] <SolarNRG> aye the extension cable is caput
[17:21:19] <renesis> _methods: unicorn hair jumper cable
[17:21:23] <SolarNRG> I'm guessing its the fuse
[17:21:23] <_methods> indeed
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[17:21:40] <_methods> if you lube the unicorn hair jumper cable with leprechaun blood you can weld anything
[17:21:40] <SolarNRG> and that had a 13a fuse fyi
[17:21:58] <SolarNRG> _methods, it's not st patricks day no more!
[17:22:01] <renesis> why cant you just welt with the leprechaun blood directly?
[17:22:07] <renesis> youre making this too complicated
[17:22:08] <_methods> hehe
[17:22:38] <renesis> solarnrg: the fuse is what? your extension has a fuse?
[17:22:44] <SolarNRG> aye
[17:22:56] <renesis> wtf kind of extension is this =\
[17:23:09] <SolarNRG> The make is a TOP power
[17:23:11] <renesis> usually if anything they just put a stupid neon bulb
[17:23:23] <archivist> EU has fuses
[17:23:32] <renesis> weird
[17:23:35] <SolarNRG> maxload 13a 250v
[17:23:48] <renesis> okay well one of those wont work
[17:23:49] <archivist> we dont have too many house fires anymore
[17:23:50] <SolarNRG> I literally just need to make 4 fatty beats on this 8mm steel
[17:23:55] <renesis> do you have $15?
[17:24:04] <renesis> 15A extension cord is like $15
[17:24:20] <renesis> well maybe not in the EU
[17:24:23] <SolarNRG> shops are closed now, no I don't have 15 bucks but if I weld this thing now before the guy comes round I'll have 40 to spend on whatever you recommend
[17:24:40] <renesis> yes i understand your paradox
[17:25:01] <SolarNRG> chicken and egg
[17:25:02] <archivist> we cannot fix you cable over the internet
[17:25:02] <renesis> if i had $5k im pretty sure i could make $50k but thus life
[17:25:36] <SolarNRG> no but you might be able to guide me through making a temporary functional extension lead, warn me of safety concerns that can probably handly 16A for a short time without setting the place alight?
[17:25:57] <archivist> we have warned you, get proper wire
[17:26:12] <SolarNRG> Will cooker wire suffice?
[17:26:21] <_methods> http://www.unicorn-dream.co.uk/unicorn4.html
[17:26:22] <archivist> cooker is 30A ish
[17:26:32] <SolarNRG> aye easily handle the ampage
[17:26:53] <archivist> you plugs and sockets are not though
[17:27:04] <renesis> solarnrg: lots of us know a lot about electronics and wouldnt do what you are trying to do even tho we could probably make it work 95% of the time
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[17:27:27] <renesis> buy an extension cable or wait until morning and borrow one
[17:27:48] <archivist> I use a proper 13A extension for the welder
[17:27:49] <SolarNRG> socket? as in the socket in my lab itself can only handle a certain amount of current?
[17:28:02] <renesis> archivist: right its not like theyre expensive
[17:28:04] <SolarNRG> The extension I was using WAS 13A and died
[17:28:12] <renesis> home depot has 20A ones for a few dollars more
[17:28:15] <archivist> it was a crap one then
[17:28:18] <renesis> man that was such a cool movie
[17:29:07] <renesis> archivist: what is standard socket current in europe at 240V?
[17:29:11] <renesis> like 10A?
[17:29:35] <archivist> 13A in the UK
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[17:29:44] <renesis> damn thats a lot more power than here
[17:30:08] <SolarNRG> Do I need to wire up a special socket from the fusebox using a higher guage of wire than domestic wiring?
[17:30:26] <SolarNRG> If that's the case I doubt I have enough wire
[17:30:37] <archivist> SolarNRG, I do not trust your skills in wiring to advise
[17:30:45] <renesis> also i dont thi you would have time to get it inspected by tomorrow
[17:30:51] <SolarNRG> oh come on I wired up the PID oven ok
[17:31:01] <SolarNRG> I wired up the arduino just fine
[17:31:10] <renesis> arduino is 5V no amps
[17:31:25] <SolarNRG> ahem 0.05 amps
[17:31:30] <renesis> because you said arduino i dont think you should be doing anything electrical
[17:31:37] <_methods> hahahahhahahahahah
[17:31:38] <renesis> is that it?
[17:31:47] <renesis> that avr should be able to push more out its gpio
[17:31:52] <SolarNRG> aye you can lick the arduino and it tickles
[17:31:55] <_methods> i need to add that to my email sigs
[17:31:56] <renesis> plus theres a lot of peripheral circuits
[17:32:56] <renesis> anyway in a 10% world, arduino is relatively no amps, get an extension cable that doesnt suck in the morning
[17:33:24] <renesis> also what is wiring up an arduino dont you just plug that shit in and stomp shields onto it?
[17:34:02] <SolarNRG> I make my own devices using prototype board
[17:34:22] <renesis> nice, what proto boards you use?
[17:34:52] <SolarNRG> the copper strip board, 4 fets, 4 shotkeys, some wires a stepper driver dada
[17:35:04] <renesis> got all stupid expensive here so i just started buying the unclad punched G10 stuff
[17:35:11] <renesis> oh
[17:35:38] <SolarNRG> just look at the circuit diagrams, it's lego
[17:35:43] <SolarNRG> a bit of solder
[17:35:45] <renesis> you mean like wireless breadboard or the FR4/phenolic with strips of copper pads?
[17:35:45] <SolarNRG> easy
[17:36:15] <renesis> oh not wireless, neat
[17:36:24] <renesis> er, solderless
[17:36:36] <SolarNRG> it looks beige on one side the other side has these copper strips and for hi voltage shite I use the electrical connector and I epoxy it onto one side of the board and conductive paste and screw the FETs on
[17:36:55] <SolarNRG> no im old skool, solder, screw in wires, epoxy, pvc tape
[17:37:02] <renesis> yeah that stuff is good
[17:37:34] <renesis> the ones with little copper ring pads around each hole are annoying, they will usually start sliding, cheap shit
[17:37:47] <SolarNRG> and as soon as some nany state dude comes up with "oh you can;t do that, that's too many amps that;s not safe" I say, pss off I;m 30 i know the risks just tell me what i need so i can get on with it
[17:38:07] <SolarNRG> oh i bought a pic board that has that they are a pain
[17:38:07] <renesis> im pretty sure the solderless breadboards have been around since the 70s
[17:38:26] <SolarNRG> the arduino i got has holes that look like segments of a IDE interface
[17:38:37] <SolarNRG> u no like old skool hdds
[17:39:03] <renesis> right, dual row female pin header stuff
[17:39:12] <CaptHindsight> how much electrical power does it take to kill? (extrapolating from what doesn't kill you makes you stringer)
[17:39:13] <SolarNRG> made a little h-bridge, but when I changed direction I got back emf and killed the power supply, not the arduino
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[17:39:36] <renesis> capthindsight: supposedly only 15mA if you get it just right
[17:39:38] <CaptHindsight> maybe start with 60VAC ( the UL limit for low voltage)
[17:39:51] <SolarNRG> IDK the ardunio's used to trigger fets, I should imagine if ur using the analog digital converter with too many amps it'll die, but i not had that problem so far
[17:39:59] <CaptHindsight> work your way up, getting stronger along the way
[17:40:09] <renesis> capthindsight: power is kind wrong unit, the voltage threashold of skin can be all over the place
[17:40:15] <SolarNRG> arduinos got enough juice from usb to power like puny motors and leds
[17:40:18] <renesis> depending where and how sweaty you are
[17:40:29] <SolarNRG> i use separate power supplies and fets to control stuff that draws tonnes of juice
[17:40:38] <CaptHindsight> thats part of the getting stronger
[17:40:39] <SolarNRG> heatsinked fets
[17:40:51] <CaptHindsight> you'll build up scar tissues from the burns
[17:41:24] <CaptHindsight> om sweaty days you'll burn at a lower voltage
[17:41:39] <renesis> ya basically
[17:41:45] <SolarNRG> actually never burned myself on a a welder, never cut myself with a grinder, but I have sliced my finger right open on a scrap pane of glass I was using to make a sandpaper glass metal flattening device for my CNC bearings
[17:41:59] <CaptHindsight> until the scar tissue replaces any sweat glands
[17:42:06] <SolarNRG> Oh btw, I made a flexible for my acme thread wanna c?
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[17:45:08] <SolarNRG> http://i.imgur.com/0REnEM3.jpg
[17:45:12] <SolarNRG> what do u guys think?
[17:46:03] <archivist> does not look flexible at all
[17:46:25] <SolarNRG> it holds the stepper rotor and the acme isn't that all that matters?
[17:46:34] <XXCoder1> backlash
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[17:46:54] <archivist> what part of flexible dont you understand
[17:47:11] <Cromaglious> Looks HUGE and rigid unless you filled it with one of Furrywolf rejected dildo's
[17:47:13] <_methods> holy coupler batman
[17:47:32] <SolarNRG> I made it out of some scrap steel I bought for 2 quid
[17:48:13] <SolarNRG> can I like use the angle grinder and make some spiral cuts along it to make it more "flexible" ?
[17:48:56] <_methods> definitely
[17:49:24] <SolarNRG> any tips to mark out a good spiral?
[17:49:47] <renesis> draw in something that does spirals native and print
[17:49:59] <archivist> you will not manage to make that flexible with an angle grinder
[17:50:14] <SolarNRG> u underestimate my precision skills with the grinder :D
[17:50:17] <_methods> wrap a string around it
[17:50:24] <SolarNRG> yeah that would work!
[17:50:25] <renesis> you dont think he can cross slice it just right!?
[17:50:25] <_methods> then trace it with a marker
[17:50:40] <_methods> or unwind a spring
[17:50:44] <_methods> wrap around
[17:50:50] <renesis> oh to slice the coupler i was not paying attention
[17:50:52] <SolarNRG> yeah sting and a marker, adjust the string until the gaps are jsut right
[17:50:55] <XXCoder1> spirl has to be cut all way though material right?
[17:51:07] <_methods> now your splitting hairs
[17:51:12] <SolarNRG> yeah it's like 50mm diam, easily within the reach of my disc
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[17:52:27] <SolarNRG> i mean even at the acme end u still got a thickness of like 8mm all around and by the time u get to the rotor half its like 21mm thick!
[17:53:11] <SolarNRG> i mean the best precision I think I can do AT BEST with the grinder is a 3mm wide cut, so how far apart should each rotation of cut be?
[17:53:20] <SolarNRG> 10mm?
[17:53:23] <SolarNRG> 12mm?
[17:53:30] <SolarNRG> 8mm? cutting it a bit fine
[17:53:42] <SolarNRG> maybe 2mm cut if I'm like mega careful
[17:56:13] <archivist> SolarNRG, please stop dreaming
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[17:56:38] <SolarNRG> so that hunk of metal I spent ages drilling into is useless aye?
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[17:58:01] * JT-Shop tries to remember what cad program can do text
[17:58:23] <jdh> all of them?
[17:58:57] <archivist> even autocad 2 (badly)
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[18:03:50] <JT-Shop> well OneCNC does it and vectorized it but the letters overlap when your done... maybe another font
[18:05:41] <JT-Shop> hmm there is something on the wiki I think
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[18:09:43] <SolarNRG> right im off 2 bed nn
[18:09:45] <JT-Shop> crump you need cxf fonts for it
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[18:11:01] <archivist> that solar character is just plain dangerous
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[18:12:22] <Cromaglious> I hate G Code generators that use work bottom as 0, instead of work top
[18:14:16] <JT-Shop> lol
[18:15:04] <XXCoder1> curious why
[18:15:07] <XXCoder1> crom
[18:17:31] <Cromaglious> it's alot easier to set Z 0 at top of the work instead of finding a Z0 on the table. Most of my X0 Y0 Z0 is on the work material, takes a bunch of time ti move over to the table and find an uncut spot to touch off on
[18:18:43] <jdh> sometimes work bottom is bettet
[18:19:25] <Cromaglious> My table is aluminum, so I have a piece of 1x8 on top for a sacraficial piece, and what I'm cutting is usually over hanging that and if it's not clamped down it bows
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[18:22:15] <Cromaglious> hmmm I know what I need for the spindle.. a voltage readout on the X carriage
[18:28:20] <XXCoder1> cool
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[18:28:40] <XXCoder1> I also wonder if my board supports touch pad for z0
[18:29:08] <XXCoder1> TB6560
[18:30:06] <Cromaglious> touch pad? probe?
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[18:30:49] <XXCoder1> not sure what its called but it uses electricity - wire bit and it goes down till it touches metal plate on top of something
[18:31:32] <miss0r|shop> HELP! :) it seems, that when I pause while milling with linuxcnc, it looses track of where it is. does it just discard the command it is doing and continue on to the next? is that what is happending? and can I do anything to stop it from messing up? (I need the pause function to remove acrylic residue from the endmill)
[18:31:32] <Cromaglious> probe or touch plate. tool setter
[18:32:01] <XXCoder1> thanks
[18:32:27] <renesis> miss0r|shop: thats weird i dont think mine does that
[18:32:35] <Cromaglious> mine either
[18:32:43] <renesis> how did you decide it loses its place?
[18:32:47] <XXCoder1> you sure you didnt miswire pause to e-stop
[18:33:24] <miss0r|shop> renesis: well, on the screen is is well within the letter it is milling, but in reality it has left the working area alltogether
[18:33:25] <renesis> even then unless you shut axis down and dont have it setup to save position, i wouldnt think it would just lose current position
[18:33:50] <renesis> thats weird
[18:33:59] <Cromaglious> using steppers or servos?
[18:34:08] <miss0r|shop> steppers
[18:34:09] <renesis> do you have it set to commanded position or current position?
[18:34:21] <renesis> im not sure how the display reflects that option i never use it
[18:34:53] <miss0r|shop> its set for actual position
[18:35:04] <renesis> if you have it set to commanded position and the display reflects the next coordinate instead of current position, maybe nothing is wrong
[18:35:10] <renesis> thats all i can think of
[18:35:15] <renesis> yeah weird
[18:35:21] <XXCoder1> yeah
[18:35:44] <XXCoder1> miss0r|shop: would recommand double check pause and e-stop, be sure those buttons do what its supposed to be for
[18:35:50] <XXCoder1> besides that no idea
[18:35:58] <renesis> have you unpaused before?
[18:36:02] <renesis> and had it complete a cycle?
[18:36:19] <renesis> also, are you cutting? has it held correct paths so far?
[18:36:23] <miss0r|shop> well, I can see that every time i've hit the pause to remove acrylic from the mill, it misses its position by a little bit. I saw that afterwards. but I only stopped the program after it did a catastrophic error that I noticed after last pause
[18:36:34] <renesis> if youre just testing in air it could be skipping
[18:36:39] <renesis> or an axis may have locked
[18:36:44] <JT-Shop> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ylv1_FEXvLM
[18:36:53] <Cromaglious> I have another grandbaby! Athena Carina 3-15-15 7# 3.5oz
[18:37:05] <miss0r|shop> renesis: The two first letters are absolutly perfect, and I did not pause during those.
[18:37:05] <renesis> ew babies
[18:37:06] <XXCoder1> congats, grandfather
[18:37:21] <miss0r|shop> congrats
[18:37:22] <Cromaglious> that's #12
[18:37:33] <renesis> miss0r|shop: tried different display views?
[18:38:06] <renesis> it doesnt sound like your motors are skipping
[18:38:21] <miss0r|shop> renesis: all show the same position
[18:38:28] <XXCoder1> backlash when paused?
[18:38:30] <renesis> unless it locked up during a retract right before you paused
[18:38:32] <XXCoder1> is there such thing
[18:38:55] <miss0r|shop> XXCoder1: I have close to zero backlash. and it left the letter with 50mm+
[18:38:55] <renesis> not changing direction, so no i dont think so
[18:39:07] <renesis> unless your servos are oscillating or something weird like that
[18:39:20] <Cromaglious> using steppers
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[18:39:21] <XXCoder1> yea over 50mm its something else
[18:39:27] <renesis> check code
[18:39:55] <miss0r|shop> I triplechecked the code. Theres nothing in those coordinates
[18:39:58] <renesis> that doesnt make sense either because the display would reflect that
[18:40:05] <renesis> yeah its prob not the code
[18:40:35] <renesis> miss0r|shop: is it only off on one axis?
[18:41:09] <renesis> or not sure because in between corrdinates
[18:41:09] <miss0r|shop> i'm thinking: is it possible that when I hit pause while it is in motion; that it just regards the current move command as complete and start off on the next line of gcode after the pause?
[18:41:09] <XXCoder1> easy enough to test that
[18:41:10] <renesis> yeah that doesnt seem right thats never happened to me
[18:41:15] <miss0r|shop> renesis: so far, yes. but when thinking about it, it makes sense that I stopped it moving that direction each time
[18:41:15] <XXCoder1> set program to do single but long move
[18:41:22] <XXCoder1> then pause right after movement
[18:41:29] <XXCoder1> it should be MUCH short of goal
[18:41:45] <miss0r|shop> indeed... hang on
[18:41:48] <renesis> miss0r|shop: is it too far or not far enough
[18:42:13] <renesis> if its further out than it should be thats just weird, extra steps coming from somewhere
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[18:42:26] <renesis> maybe noise or a bad connection or something
[18:42:42] <renesis> if its short, could be that or skipped steps
[18:42:44] <XXCoder1> renesis: that would be inverse problem, it restarting entire move when paused
[18:42:51] <miss0r|shop> it seems that I can pause and unpause that movement, and it keeps on going
[18:42:52] <XXCoder1> also easy enough to test
[18:42:57] <miss0r|shop> so that is off the list... :-/
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[18:43:19] <XXCoder1> try pausing few times see if you can make it go further
[18:43:20] <renesis> yeah thats always been my experience
[18:43:33] <XXCoder1> inverse test heh
[18:43:46] <renesis> xxcoder1: no im saying its just been going to far the whole time, before pausing
[18:43:54] <miss0r|shop> i'm having a hard time reprodusing the error
[18:43:59] <renesis> after the second letter
[18:44:23] <XXCoder1> renesis: I was talking to miss0r :) but ok
[18:44:26] <renesis> miss0r|shop: which is common for EM interference and connection issues
[18:44:37] <renesis> xxcoder1: you said renesis:
[18:44:51] <XXCoder1> oh earier. yeah
[18:45:13] <miss0r|shop> hmmm... All the connections are soldered. and the cables are sheilded and grounded
[18:45:30] <XXCoder1> maybe time to break out multimeter
[18:45:47] <XXCoder1> dunno what is used for em test
[18:45:51] <miss0r|shop> indeed. Thanks. I have to run before the wife kills me :)
[18:45:51] <renesis> miss0r|shop: shields connected on both sides?
[18:45:58] <miss0r|shop> renesis: yes
[18:46:10] <renesis> so you may have ground loops
[18:46:25] <XXCoder1> ground loops?
[18:46:29] <renesis> assuming the machine is common at all the motor connections
[18:46:41] <miss0r|shop> renesis: The steppers are electrically insulated from the machine, so no ground loops
[18:46:45] <renesis> and theyre all going to the same driver with same ground
[18:47:07] <renesis> yeah prob not then
[18:47:09] <miss0r|shop> sorry guys, thanks for the help. the misses will kill me if I don't run now
[18:47:14] <miss0r|shop> cya
[18:47:20] <renesis> k dont get divorced bye
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[18:47:27] <XXCoder1> misses?
[18:47:31] <XXCoder1> more than one? lol
[18:47:34] <Cromaglious> http://itslinux.org/cnc/PotHoleRepairHalt.jpg
[18:48:00] <renesis> thats not good
[18:48:04] <XXCoder1> in least that's not plot hole lol
[18:48:18] <CaptHindsight> anyone have a source for SO-DIMM ECC 32GB sticks? not desktop modules
[18:48:34] <renesis> ya wtf ecc
[18:48:38] <CaptHindsight> sorry 16GB not 32GB
[18:48:52] <CaptHindsight> mainly used in servers
[18:48:59] <Cromaglious> dunno's what funnier, the truck in the hole, or the 5 guys looking at it. Lets see Supervisor, HR, Safety, spotter, then the Driver
[18:49:25] <renesis> like HR ever leaves the office or knows what a truck is
[18:49:33] <XXCoder1> potholes had a nice victory when they stopped pothole repairers heh
[18:49:53] <Cromaglious> s/HR/apprentice
[18:50:05] <renesis> that works
[18:50:24] <renesis> kinda, i dont know if you have to be an pothole repair apprentice first
[18:50:25] <Cromaglious> s/apprentice/intern/
[18:50:42] <renesis> my guess is they just throw you into th3e shit the first day and if they tar fumes dont kill you, youre in
[18:50:43] <XXCoder1> cigar
[18:50:48] <renesis> intern works
[18:50:53] <renesis> everyone loves free workers
[18:50:55] <Cromaglious> it's a trade, so yes you have to be apprentice for a least a month
[18:51:14] <XXCoder1> intern dont always work for free
[18:51:16] <renesis> thats less than probation period at most jobs
[18:51:22] <renesis> xxcoder1: but they often do
[18:51:25] <XXCoder1> I interned as machinist, got paid minium wage
[18:51:26] <renesis> or for silly, silly stipends
[18:52:05] <archivist> the apprenticeship is the elf n safety course before they let you out
[18:52:25] <renesis> wtf is elf
[18:52:40] <renesis> probqably has nothing to do with linked binaries
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[18:52:44] <XXCoder1> elves, tall point eared people, usually found at forest
[18:52:54] <renesis> naw we killed them
[18:53:04] <renesis> theyre gone, prob like 3 human civilizations ago
[18:53:08] <archivist> in the UK derogatory term for health and safety types
[18:53:36] <renesis> so elf is just health check? and then they do a safety class
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[18:53:53] <renesis> that seems pretty reasonable
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[18:56:07] <miss0r> I looked at it one last time after logging off. I found the problem:
[18:56:07] <XXCoder1> wb
[18:56:54] <miss0r> apparently the Y-axis belt drive had come loose.... *DOH* only allowing movement to one side, and slipping when going the other way.
[18:57:12] <XXCoder1> ahh nice
[18:57:32] <XXCoder1> woot found TB6560 manual
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[18:58:25] <renesis> miss0r: yeah skipping was the only thing made sense
[18:58:37] <miss0r> indeed
[18:58:42] <miss0r> another kind of skipping
[18:58:42] <XXCoder1> I bet only one direction made it hard though
[18:58:48] <XXCoder1> *to find
[18:58:50] <renesis> you may want to check if the axis are binding anywhere
[18:59:31] <renesis> perhaps you can adjust a gib or bearing assembly, or just feed rates and depth of cut
[19:01:46] <Cromaglious> waaaaaaaaa Calypso sank?
[19:02:52] <Cromaglious> oh in '96
[19:02:52] <XXCoder1> in 1996
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[19:09:25] <Cromaglious> I gotta watch 'The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou' again
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[19:11:09] <XXCoder1> http://cockrum.net/cnc.html interesting
[19:11:15] <XXCoder1> gonna love domain name :P
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[19:18:36] <XXCoder1> not bad, TB6560 has pin 15 open for use. evenually want to do it, don't wanna manually set z each time change tool lol
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[19:26:16] <wholepair> I am trying to add core_xy_kins.c module to x86 linuxCNC
[19:26:56] <wholepair> I installed dev packages and tried "sudo comp --install --userspace core_xy_kins.c"
[19:27:08] <Cromaglious> XXCoder1, which tb6560 board you have?
[19:27:13] <XXCoder1> blue
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[19:27:53] <Cromaglious> is it a BOB + driver board?
[19:27:55] <andypugh> wholepair: Which LinuxCNC version?
[19:28:03] <XXCoder1> so far from what I see, theres 2 variants, red and blue board lol so dunno
[19:28:17] <XXCoder1> hold on though
[19:28:34] <XXCoder1> http://www.ebay.com/itm/3Axis-Nema23-Stepping-Motor-110N-cm-3-0A-4wire-board-TB6560-Power-for-CMC-mill-/281188392513?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4178225e41
[19:30:07] <andypugh> You can’t compile .c files with —userspace. But that’s OK because kinematics files run in realtime.
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[19:32:50] <Cromaglious> at least it's not the yoocnc tb6560 nt65-3x board
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[19:33:17] <wholepair> I installed 2.6 from the image on the linuxCNC wite
[19:33:32] <XXCoder1> Cromaglious: is pendants sandardized?
[19:33:36] <XXCoder1> *standardized
[19:33:39] <andypugh> wholepair: So, what isn’t happening? There are two things. 1) Drop the —userspace and 2) it _might_ be called “halcompile” in your version.
[19:33:46] <wholepair> uname -a says: LinuxCNC 2.6.32-122-rtai #rtai SMP Tue Jul 27 12:44:07 CDT 2010 i686 GNU/Linux
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[19:35:34] <wholepair> andypugh: when I use sudo comp --install --userspace core_xy_kins.c I get errors -
[19:35:42] <XXCoder1> Cromaglious: for example
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/USB-CNC-Mach3-Hand-Wheel-CNC-USB-MPG-Pendant-For-Mach3-4-Axis-Engraving-Fittings-interface/32241933845.html
[19:35:59] <andypugh> wholepair: It would be helpful to know _which_ errors
[19:35:59] <wholepair> andypugh: first one is - /usr/include/linuxcnc/rtapi_app.h:30:26: error: linux/module.h: No such file or directory
[19:36:14] <XXCoder1> it says mach3 only but adoptable to use on linuxcnc>?
[19:36:27] <andypugh> OK, so “comp” is correct, but you need to drop the —userspace
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[19:36:35] <Cromaglious> pendants are not standardized... you have to the the one for your board
[19:36:36] <wholepair> andypugh: and the rest are all warnings
[19:36:42] <XXCoder1> hmm ok
[19:37:07] <andypugh> It’s all just wires and software, anything can be made to work with anything
[19:37:09] <wholepair> andypugh: ok I will try without userspace - can I do this from any directory?
[19:37:31] <_methods> yeah i use a usb numpad for my mpg lol
[19:37:36] <cnc1> Swapper: hi
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[19:37:47] <andypugh> I think so, but I normally do it from the directory where the source file is
[19:37:49] <Cromaglious> missed a get in there somewhere
[19:38:02] <skunkworks> XXCoder1, this style is supported...
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?Using_A_XHC-HB04_Wireless_MPG_Pendant
[19:38:12] <Cromaglious> hmm I see a pin 16 gnd gnd pin 17, that's for A axis
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[19:38:30] <XXCoder1> skunkworks: thanks
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[19:39:39] <wholepair> andypugh: it worked! thanks -
[19:39:47] <andypugh> Great
[19:39:50] <XXCoder1> skunkworks: would this work?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-ship-CNC-Mach3-USB-Handwheel-4-Axis-Pulse-50-PPR-Optical-Encoder-Generator-MPG-Pendant/32228419960.html
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[19:39:55] <XXCoder1> looks same but not wireless
[19:41:15] <Cromaglious> looks like there is a bunch of mods for that board as well
[19:42:07] <skunkworks> it says hbo4....
[19:43:22] <XXCoder1> where?
[19:43:44] <skunkworks> on the photo.. :)
[19:43:55] <XXCoder1> oh so it does
[19:43:59] <XXCoder1> no wonder search failed
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[19:44:49] <tjtr33> JT-Shop,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Orz0jU8pcP0
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[19:49:00] <Jymmm> JT-Shop: Is that you leaning on the anvil?
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[20:27:08] <JT-Shop> tjtr33, good one... but I have grown to hate youtube and how they start playing another without you telling it to
[20:27:33] <JT-Shop> anyone seen my tape measure?
[20:28:29] <andypugh> JT-Shop: Have you checked your pockets?
[20:28:36] <XXCoder1> JT-Shop: youtube center
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[20:31:57] <JT-Shop> andypugh, it's too big to fit in my pockets
[20:32:05] <JT-Shop> youtube center?
[20:32:06] <XXCoder1> thats what she said too
[20:32:34] <XXCoder1> yeah its very nice addon to do stuff for youtube - like remove annoying stuff
[20:33:00] <XXCoder1> its also simple way to download videos if you want to have local copy
[20:37:57] <Cromaglious> Your tape measure is somewhere close to my .410 shotgun, which I haven't seen for 12 years
[20:41:28] <JT-Shop> now that's something I've never lost... but if I find your .410 can I keep it?
[20:41:51] <XXCoder1> I remember this tv show where people went to land of lost
[20:42:17] <XXCoder1> basically theres agentacy in usa, secret one, that steal stuff so people has to buy replacements
[20:42:57] <Cromaglious> I don;t think the punk that got my .410 worked for them
[20:43:34] <XXCoder1> probably not lol
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[20:46:58] <XXCoder1> wow didnt know there was timecop 2
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[20:56:38] <Cromaglious> bbl putting in another USB board into this machine
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[21:00:17] <JT-Shop> found the tape measure in the last place I used it... no .410
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[21:01:43] <ssi> :D
[21:02:33] <XXCoder1> JT-Shop: thats normal. scary is NOT at last place you used it ;)
[21:03:08] <SpeedEvil> I want stuff to be not where I last left it.
[21:03:23] <XXCoder1> hire someone to randomly shuffle stuff then
[21:03:24] <SpeedEvil> I want nice house-elfs that put shit away in their place.
[21:03:37] <XXCoder1> what if you properly put it away? lol
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[21:05:16] <tjtr33> shopleavers. thats when people come into your store and leave new product ( euphemism for kickback from dealers )
[21:07:37] <furrywolf> we mostly have shoplifters around here instead. that's when people come into your store, grab something, run out, sell it, then buy methamphetamine.
[21:09:53] <SpeedEvil> I tried shoplifting once. I couldn't manage it.
[21:10:00] <SpeedEvil> I think I need to start with weights.
[21:10:22] <furrywolf> or try PCP.
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[21:12:36] <furrywolf> GRRRRRRR. I was wondering why something I bought on ebay wasn't here yet. The fucking seller shipped it UPS even though the listing said USPS.
[21:13:06] <_methods> usps and ups are working together now
[21:13:22] <furrywolf> UPS Mail Innovations is not USPS.
[21:13:23] <_methods> they're doing some hybrid insanity
[21:13:47] <_methods> well apparently it is for you lol
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[21:22:25] <the_wench> Cromaglious: tjtr33 said your 'touch gauge' looks like an LVDT . if so, its a better search term.
[21:23:41] <andypugh> I think you can drive an LVDT with Resolver stuff.
[21:23:46] <Cromaglious> LVDT ok searching
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[21:25:03] <Cromaglious> Resolver like in almost straight printer port?
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[21:26:39] <andypugh> No, absolutely almost entirely unlike a printer port
[21:27:06] <Cromaglious> so still back to arduino
[21:27:34] <furrywolf> lol
[21:27:37] <andypugh> Arduino might not help either
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[21:27:54] <andypugh> Not directly anyway. You need hgh-frequency AC excitation
[21:28:27] <tjtr33> wow thats a bit old wench
[21:28:28] <Cromaglious> sounds like pwm to me
[21:28:30] <andypugh> This _might_ help
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?ResolverToQuadratureConverter
[21:28:48] <tjtr33> ic-haus ?
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[21:29:56] <andypugh> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/differential-amplifiers/6976953/
[21:29:58] <furrywolf> LVDTs are an old technology, yes.
[21:30:18] <Cromaglious> hmm 5khz at 3v current 1ma, sensitivity is around 33mV/V/mm
[21:31:18] <Cromaglious> http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=103679.0
[21:31:36] <tjtr33> lvdts can do sub micron resolution
[21:32:56] <andypugh> LVDTs are great, but you need to sample synchrnously with the excitation.
[21:33:10] <andypugh> (similarly to a Resolver)
[21:33:53] <andypugh> It is notable that the original poster on the Arduino forum didn’t report back success.
[21:34:11] <tjtr33> yeh i kept looking
[21:34:49] <tjtr33> but for 0.5mm rez, he could use simpler ( and probly did )
[21:34:50] <Cromaglious> I didn/'t get that far
[21:34:58] <tjtr33> 0.05
[21:35:15] <Cromaglious> I don't need res, I need movement at all
[21:35:25] <Cromaglious> at the same place
[21:35:29] <Cromaglious> go/no go
[21:35:42] <andypugh> The Arduino code I linked to via the LinuxCNC Wiki does at least generate a sine-wave excitation, sample synchronously, and compute an output.
[21:36:09] <andypugh> In that case you want a simple touch-probe.
[21:36:51] <andypugh> http://wildhorse-innovations.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=80
[21:37:01] <tjtr33> may be of use
http://www.ichaus.de/keyword/Interpolators sine to ttl
[21:37:47] <tjtr33> nm
[21:38:31] <Cromaglious> yeah, not happening.. $120
[21:38:47] <andypugh> You can’t afford that but you think you can afford an LVDT?
[21:39:38] <tjtr33> andypugh, thx for that code, i have quite a few sin/cos heidenhain encoders & linear scales
[21:40:20] <Cromaglious> I have 2... arduino's are like $12
[21:40:27] <tjtr33> doesnt require excitation or sync, but very interestin
[21:43:01] <Cromaglious> I can always generator a signal externally and read it and the signal from the secondaryls
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[21:45:33] <Cromaglious> I got the probes for $30
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[21:54:05] <Deejay> gn8
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[22:06:43] * zeeshan-laptop is laser cutting this
[22:06:45] <zeeshan-laptop> http://i.imgur.com/L9em3Aq.png
[22:06:46] <zeeshan-laptop> :D
[22:07:20] amnesic_away is now known as amnesic
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[22:16:23] <ssi> lol
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[22:17:52] <ssi> my wing model is coming along nicely
[22:18:00] <ssi> I refactored it several times to make it more manageable
[22:18:46] <zeeshan-laptop> nice
[22:18:50] <zeeshan-laptop> are you cutting it out of wood
[22:18:52] <ssi> I have a lot of hours in it at this point :P
[22:18:53] <ssi> yeah
[22:18:55] <zeeshan-laptop> nice
[22:18:58] <ssi> will be eventually
[22:19:04] <zeeshan-laptop> my bridge is going to be like 9 feet long
[22:19:07] <zeeshan-laptop> itll be BAD ASS!1
[22:19:27] <zeeshan-laptop> i should have all the laser stuff done in an hour or two
[22:19:27] <ssi> and I'm doing a full model so that I can be able to model things like where the drag wires intersect the ribs
[22:19:29] <zeeshan-laptop> and assemble tonigt
[22:19:35] <ssi> so the rib sheeting can have laser cut holes where everything just works out
[22:19:35] <zeeshan-laptop> ah
[22:20:54] <zeeshan-laptop> hey what do you think of my lathe enclosure
[22:21:00] <zeeshan-laptop> http://i.imgur.com/4rSsldQ.png
[22:21:12] <zeeshan-laptop> http://i.imgur.com/6VgYNn6.gifv
[22:21:13] <ssi> looks good
[22:21:15] <zeeshan-laptop> thats how the door moves
[22:21:18] <zeeshan-laptop> 2 u channels
[22:21:20] <zeeshan-laptop> with regular bearings
[22:21:29] <ssi> yea
[22:21:36] <zeeshan-laptop> its very basic, but i hope it gets the job done
[22:21:43] <zeeshan-laptop> sick of chips flying on my rx7
[22:21:44] <zeeshan-laptop> :/
[22:22:34] <zeeshan-laptop> i should automate the door
[22:22:35] <zeeshan-laptop> !
[22:22:42] <Cromaglious> That bridge is gonna be AWEFUL! the orinal sense of the word. Full of Awe
[22:22:49] <Cromaglious> original
[22:23:03] <zeeshan-laptop> i made it in like 2 hours
[22:23:12] <zeeshan-laptop> i hope it works out
[22:23:16] <zeeshan-laptop> i wasnt paying attention much through it
[22:23:20] <zeeshan-laptop> like i usually do
[22:23:28] <zeeshan-laptop> i tried my best to line up the joints correct
[22:24:00] <ssi> https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAaba-CUYAA3sEA.jpg:large
[22:25:09] <ssi> trying to upload a ridiculously high res version now :P
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[22:25:15] <ssi> my internet sucks far too much for this
[22:26:15] <zeeshan-laptop> i love rendering in solidworks
[22:26:19] <zeeshan-laptop> that looks great dude!
[22:26:19] <ssi> http://www.prototechnical.com/~imcmahon/wing.png
[22:26:22] <ssi> thanks :)
[22:26:29] <zeeshan-laptop> scale size
[22:26:33] <zeeshan-laptop> how long is the span
[22:26:34] <zeeshan-laptop> and width
[22:26:41] <ssi> 36" chord, 16' span
[22:26:45] <ssi> that wing is 84.5"
[22:26:46] <zeeshan-laptop> haha!
[22:26:47] <zeeshan-laptop> nice!!
[22:27:00] <zeeshan-laptop> what kind of wood do you usually use
[22:27:02] <zeeshan-laptop> to make that?
[22:27:14] <ssi> solid spruce for the spars and truss members
[22:27:21] <ssi> mahogany plywood for gussets and sheets
[22:27:24] <zeeshan-laptop> wow
[22:27:29] <zeeshan-laptop> not just plywood :-)
[22:27:29] <Bushman> ave
[22:27:39] <zeeshan-laptop> its gotta be mohagany plywood!
[22:27:44] <zeeshan-laptop> regular plywood i mean
[22:27:48] <ssi> not just mahogany plywood
[22:27:53] <ssi> mil-spec mahogany plywood :P
[22:27:55] <zeeshan-laptop> seksi
[22:27:55] <ssi> mil-6070-p
[22:28:00] <zeeshan-laptop> that must be expensive
[22:28:24] <ssi> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/domplywood.php
[22:28:25] <ssi> it's not cheap
[22:29:10] <Bushman> guys i need to figure out the easiest way to adapt a low RPM heavy duty rotor as my A axis for milling 2 sided/3D/turned stuff
[22:29:21] <zeeshan-laptop> hm
[22:29:30] <zeeshan-laptop> regular high end plywood at homedepot is like $120
[22:29:36] <zeeshan-laptop> for 1/2"
[22:29:37] <Bushman> the motor has a really high gear ratio and is 230V operated
[22:29:43] <zeeshan-laptop> 4'x8'
[22:29:51] <ssi> this is $310 for 1/2 4x8
[22:29:56] <ssi> but 1/2 doesn't get used that much
[22:30:02] <ssi> 1/4 and thinner generally
[22:30:09] <ssi> all those gussets and sheets on that model are 1/16"
[22:30:22] <ssi> there'll be some doublers around the I-strut area that are 1/4"
[22:31:45] <Cromaglious> Bushman, you have a picture of it?
[22:31:54] <zeeshan-laptop> ah
[22:32:10] <ssi> but the thinner stuff isn't all that much cheaper :P
[22:32:30] <SpeedEvil> GEt a thick sheet, and slice it up
[22:32:48] <ssi> not exactly how plywood works :P
[22:33:21] <Bushman> Cromaglious: better, i have video (i need to warn you, the thing is REALLY slow)
[22:33:22] <Bushman> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulavQpihgD4
[22:33:48] <Bushman> i'm thinking about replacing the motor tho... tad to slow and hard to drive in a sensible way
[22:34:12] <ssi> k back to the hangar for a bit
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[22:36:23] <Cromaglious> oh it's a servo
[22:36:41] <Bushman> Cromaglious: was a servo :P
[22:36:59] <Bushman> i'm planing to either replace the motor or...
[22:37:12] <Bushman> replacing the hi precision potentiometer with encoder
[22:37:13] <Cromaglious> yeah that motor with built in gearbox is a might slow
[22:37:39] <Bushman> to make it spin 360+
[22:37:49] <Cromaglious> bearing on the motor side is that in the gearbox ?
[22:38:00] <Bushman> i'm taking off the motor now
[22:38:05] <Bushman> will see in a minute
[22:39:24] <Cromaglious> you might be able to leave the gearbox casing and bearing, and add a coupler and then run a stepper to that shaft, muck up a stepper motor mount and who needs encoder? maybe a homed switch
[22:40:30] <Bushman> m'kay... problem number one: there is a peg through the gear box output shaft and the worm gear
[22:40:42] <Cromaglious> I'd prefer pics over video anyday.. 2000x1600 piccture, you can see more than a 1080x720 video
[22:40:50] <Bushman> not sure if i'll be able to remove this tonight without waking up my whole family lol
[22:41:30] <Cromaglious> is it a taper pin? one side bigger than the other or straight pin, or rolled pin
[22:42:00] amnesic is now known as amnesic_away
[22:42:07] <Bushman> rolled up sheet of springy steel type
[22:42:15] <Bushman> will try to remove it in a minute
[22:42:39] <Cromaglious> roll pin, those take a bit put pound out.. do it on the driveway :)
[22:42:52] <Cromaglious> s/put/to/
[22:44:05] <zeeshan-laptop> why dont you remove the gearing
[22:44:07] <zeeshan-laptop> to make it high speed
[22:44:28] <zeeshan-laptop> or replace the big gear
[22:45:16] <Cromaglious> leave the gear box casing and output shaft with bearing, rip the gears out and drive the shaft thru a coupler with a stepper
[22:46:58] <Bushman> Cromaglious: i've done these pins in the past. i'll handle it. bear with me. :P
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[22:47:42] <Bushman> Cromaglious:
http://i.imgur.com/c1RnNC6.jpg
[22:47:50] <Bushman> gonna try to remove it now
[22:51:26] <tjtr33> for roll pin, use cheap stepped drift, hand make it on pedestal grinder
[22:52:29] <zeeshan-laptop> drill bit works
[22:52:31] <zeeshan-laptop> to removet hose
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[22:53:48] <tjtr33> eh i can never remenber which end of a drill to hammer on :)
[22:54:05] <zeeshan-laptop> =]
[22:54:36] <zeeshan-laptop> its the main reason i keep shitty drill bits
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[22:54:43] <zeeshan-laptop> :D
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[22:56:45] <Bushman> it's cool, i've got it out already
[22:56:53] <Bushman> few light taps and it's out
[22:57:13] <Bushman> just hd to find something that would fit into the hole but not the tube
[22:57:37] <Cromaglious> hmm you might wanna lose the gear box
[22:57:46] <Bushman> Cromaglious: i might
[22:57:49] <Bushman> will see
[22:59:06] <Cromaglious> I see collar... thinking that might be on the wormgear side... so you mihgt be able to put stepper into that collar
[22:59:40] <Bushman> gimme 2 minutes, taking new pictures
[23:01:55] <Bushman> http://i.imgur.com/ntcJ27W.jpg
[23:02:08] <Bushman> http://i.imgur.com/OYJYKxA.jpg
[23:02:28] <Bushman> so yea, i can pretty much shove anything in there...
[23:02:31] <Bushman> lemme fins my calipers
[23:03:25] <Bushman> the shaft is 8mm
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[23:04:57] <Cromaglious> woo and it has a home switch... looks like you cann lose the pot
[23:05:14] * furrywolf takes a break from cleaning up garbage
[23:05:38] <furrywolf> why are hippies incapable of taking their crap to the dump? trying to put some useful stuff under the house, have to get the garbage out first.
[23:06:56] <Bushman> Cromaglious: i was planning on loosing the pot AND the home switches
[23:07:05] <Bushman> end switches actually
[23:07:18] <Bushman> to make it spinn indefinitely
[23:07:28] -!- nerdfiles has quit [Ping timeout: 255 seconds]
[23:07:39] <Bushman> unless i'm gonna have some sort of indexed chuck or something
[23:07:41] <Bushman> donno yet
[23:07:56] <Cromaglious> will it keep turning aft the switch is tripped or can it be modded to keep going after trip
[23:08:21] <Bushman> well, the switch is just cutting power to the motor
[23:08:25] <Bushman> but the gear is 360
[23:08:35] <Bushman> no mechanical limits
[23:08:44] <Bushman> the only limit is the pot
[23:09:06] <Bushman> but PANI Austria guys were smart and used one that can spin around lol
[23:09:19] <Bushman> so you can't crash the pot either
[23:09:22] <Bushman> :P
[23:09:57] <Cromaglious> you're gold... make a motor mounting plate, a 5mm or 1/4" to 8mm shaft adapter. Mount a stepp to the end and use the bearing in the stepper for the bearing of the gear at that end..
[23:10:39] <Bushman> yea, pretty much the plan...
[23:11:34] <Bushman> tho i might just have discovered something that, althou expected in the previous used of this thing, might screw everything up for this new purpose
[23:11:55] <Bushman> i think it has emergency friction clutch that gives up under to heavy load
[23:12:13] <Bushman> will have to dissassemble it and see if i can bypass that
[23:12:13] <Cromaglious> those can be pinned in place
[23:12:24] <Bushman> yea
[23:13:31] <furrywolf> generally that makes the most expensive gear into the new clutch.
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[23:14:19] <Bushman> huh?
[23:15:09] <Bushman> furrywolf: i'm sorry, the thought was lost in translation... what do you mean?
[23:15:12] <furrywolf> if it has a safety clutch, and you bypass it, something expensive breaks.
[23:15:30] <furrywolf> because the clutch was put there to keep things from breaking.
[23:15:49] <Bushman> but then if i don't bypass it, it's useless under heavy load
[23:16:12] <Bushman> also it was put there by the designer for The Original Design.
[23:16:17] <Cromaglious> furry: original usage was a servo, so clutch make scense
[23:16:24] <Bushman> this is a new thing for this gearbox XD
[23:17:31] <Bushman> i will see if it will hold or if it will skip under the loads i expect on my home-made CNC
[23:17:36] <Bushman> if it's ok, i'll leave the clutch in
[23:19:55] <Bushman> the business end taken off:
[23:19:55] <Bushman> http://i.imgur.com/w1ALHMz.jpg
[23:20:17] <Bushman> i can make a new adapter for a chuck with this
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[23:32:13] <Bushman> gearbox
[23:32:15] <Bushman> http://i.imgur.com/uaNAaPo.jpg
[23:32:26] <Bushman> the motor is damn slow
[23:32:42] <Bushman> like 200RPM or so ;/
[23:37:56] <Bushman> the main motor shaft is 4mm with press-fit gear
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[23:38:57] <Bushman> i highly doubt i'll be able to remove and re-fit the gear onto a new motor, for example some stepper
[23:39:02] <Bushman> but that would be cool
[23:39:50] <furrywolf> machine a replacement? :)
[23:40:15] <furrywolf> or try pressing it off
[23:40:31] <Bushman> no toold to machine a new one
[23:40:52] <Bushman> not sure if i'll find anyone who would do that for reasonable amount of money either
[23:41:00] <Bushman> will try pressing it off
[23:43:03] <Bushman> it's comming off
[23:44:08] <furrywolf> just grind the shape of a tooth into the end of a broken off drill bit, put the new black on your stepper, mount the stepper to your mill's table, take a cut, rotate stepper to where the next tooth should be, etc.
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[23:44:39] <furrywolf> s/black/blank
[23:44:45] <Bushman> it's off, but i've abused it a lot before trying to punch it out
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[23:45:08] <furrywolf> bbl, back to making friends with all the giant spiders under the house.
[23:45:41] <Bushman> feed them cricets
[23:45:44] <Bushman> *crickets
[23:45:49] <Bushman> ;>
[23:45:54] <Bushman> biches love crickets
[23:46:43] <Bushman> now, onto finding 4mm shaft steper
[23:53:12] <rootB> linux CNC, i got a question
[23:53:26] <rootB> I'm trying to cut a paper sheet figure with my machine, but i don't have roland cutting blades
[23:53:33] <rootB> Could i do it with a V bit?
[23:55:03] <Bushman> i have no idea.
[23:55:13] <Bushman> but i would just check XD
[23:55:23] <rootB> im gonna try it
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[23:55:29] <rootB> It's gonna be funny to see
[23:55:34] <Bushman> but on the other hand, don't listent to me, i'm weird XD
[23:55:37] <rootB> i mean if ou can enrave
[23:55:42] <rootB> engrave with a V bit
[23:55:45] <rootB> reall small copper
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[23:55:48] <rootB> You sohuld be able to cut
[23:56:25] <Bushman> don't get suprised if the paper will just start to fold and drag along with the bit
[23:57:11] <Bushman> also you would have to carefully plan the cutting to make the paper sheet stay together as long as possible
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