#emc | Logs for 2011-04-25

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[00:01:27] <pcw_home> it may be too much trouble to hack about with reading registers, but I can also cobble up a 5I23 config the puts out a pulse every access on some pin so you can scope the transfer
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[00:02:01] <atom1> how fast a logic analizer would it take?
[00:02:34] <andypugh> Reading the stepgen would be part of the total thread execution. I am not even sure I know how to position the read in the thread, and even less so how I might read it twice.
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[00:04:28] <pcw_home> You dont really need a logic analyser/ a 50 MHz scope will do
[00:05:08] <atom1> it would be easier to capture with a digital scope though and mine is analog
[00:05:52] <atom1> no matter, i don't have either board yet
[00:05:57] <andypugh> To be honest, now I have realised that I have 10x the overhead I thought I had it is of purely academic interest.
[00:06:58] <pcw_home> Its repetitive (at the servo rate) so an analog scope would be fine
[00:07:20] <atom1> i was just curious of a comparison was my only interest
[00:07:31] <andypugh> It does mean that you can't run a dual 7i65 (16 servo) config at a 10kHz servo rate. But I can live with that.
[00:10:01] <andypugh> (I think I meant "headroom" not "overhead" there.
[00:10:02] <pcw_home> anyway the 5I23 (without using DMA or burst transfers) shoud be worst case about .75 Usec per transfer, 7I43 (6 EPP byte transfer per 32 bit data) about 6 Usec per transfer
[00:10:04] <pcw_home> so something is fishy, but given the 42 Usec readingg on the 7I43 and 5 uSec reading on the 5I20 I dont trust your timer...
[00:10:34] <pcw_home> bbl
[00:10:41] <andypugh> But why would it underestimate those, and overestimate mine?
[00:13:56] <pcw_home> That I do not Know, just that they dont seem anywhere near reason
[00:14:59] <andypugh> Anyway, it isn't anything I have messed up in the SPI driver, so I am a bit more relaxed about it.
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[00:38:35] <The_Ball> is there a reason SND_CONFIG is not enabled in the realtime kernel?
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[00:45:53] <andypugh> There wo
[00:45:53] <andypugh> 
[00:46:09] <andypugh> There will be a reason. It might not be a good reason.
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[01:10:50] <The_Ball> andypugh, actually low latency sound stuff is being tooted for pro audio using the realtime kernel, so I could probably just roll my own with sound enabled
[01:12:23] <andypugh> It should be as easy as turning it on and recompiling assuming that the packaged kernel has it's build options.
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[02:22:39] <ssi> ugt I hate repacking ballnuts
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[02:31:11] <andypugh> I have never dared unpack them.
[02:31:41] <atom1> just balls in a row
[02:31:50] <ssi> not something I do for entertainment, I assure you
[02:33:55] <The_Ball> thick grease to the rescue
[02:34:16] <ssi> is that the secret?
[02:34:30] <atom1> i'm sure it helps keep them in place
[02:35:08] <ssi> it's not the repacking that bothers me so much
[02:35:12] <ssi> although it's tedious
[02:35:21] <ssi> it's knowing that I can't possibly have as many balls going back in as came out :/
[02:35:26] <ssi> I need to order some spares :P
[02:35:54] <ssi> might be nice to try to get some oversized
[02:36:58] <atom1> why would you do that?
[02:37:04] <atom1> you wouldn't want them too oversize or they'll bind
[02:37:06] <ssi> to take out some of the lash
[02:37:15] <ssi> not too oversized, of course
[02:37:32] <ssi> folks have had good luck with .1263 balls in these roton nuts
[02:37:39] <atom1> assuming the screw is uniform
[02:37:53] <atom1> hmm
[02:38:19] <andypugh> I have considered making my own ballnuts. I mean, how hard can it be?
[02:38:53] <ssi> nothing but a round profile internal thread
[02:39:12] <ssi> with a return channel
[02:39:17] <andypugh> It's not entirely round, I don't think.
[02:39:18] <atom1> rather precision ground and polished
[02:39:34] <ssi> no, not entirely round
[02:39:37] <ssi> more like angular contac
[02:40:03] <andypugh> But I think that with enough cleverness you could do it with CNC.
[02:40:05] <ssi> I'd be very very surprised if these cheap roton nuts were ground and polished inside
[02:40:36] <Jymmm> andypugh: You can make it easily with duct tape, silly putty, and sea glass
[02:40:38] <ssi> it'd take a heck of a lot of oddball tooling to ID grind a roundish profile thread
[02:41:14] <toastydeath> it just takes a thread girinder and a cnc dresser?
[02:41:24] <andypugh> I am thinking that you could generate the profile with very-multipass spindle-synchronised boring cuts.
[02:41:49] <toastydeath> oh, id grinding.
[02:42:29] <toastydeath> both ID and OD threads are done with a formed wheel
[02:42:35] <toastydeath> dress the profile on the wheel and go.
[02:42:42] <ssi> yea you'd need an ID thread grinder with a profiled wheel
[02:42:56] <ssi> it's certainly doable, I just dunno that it's home-shop-feasible
[02:43:29] <toastydeath> you'd have to do it the old school way with friction wheels/capstan drive
[02:44:08] <toastydeath> build yourself some lapping gear and make the rods and rollers out of hardened steel
[02:44:08] <Jymmm> toastydeath: what you think the sea glass is for =)
[02:44:12] <toastydeath> ?
[02:44:24] <Jymmm> toastydeath: abrasive
[02:44:27] <toastydeath> i just jumped in, i don't know what you guys are talking about
[02:44:59] <atom1> we don't either
[02:45:00] <atom1> :D
[02:45:19] <Jymmm> toastydeath: andypugh can make a ballnut easily with duct tape, silly putty, and sea glass
[02:45:21] <atom1> started about packing ballscrews
[02:45:23] <toastydeath> hahaha
[02:45:40] <toastydeath> you could reasonably make an ID/OD thread grinder with EMC
[02:46:58] <andypugh> I shared an office for a few years with a guy doing a PhD in the industrial uses of Silly Putty.
[02:48:31] <andypugh> Oh-oh! I might have just crashed git!
[02:48:37] <andypugh> It said: First, rewinding head to replay your work on top of it...
[02:48:50] <andypugh> And then nothing has happened...
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[03:29:23] <ve7it> man.... ebook readers are brain dead... what a waste of linux software
[03:30:14] <ve7it> not a mention of open source or any source on the manufactures web site
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[03:37:09] <andypugh> Half the word thinks that Windows is Free because they didn't pay for it. Get used to it ;-)
[03:41:06] <ve7it> its sad that there are very few people that care to know how things work.... I just have to take things apart
[03:41:32] <andypugh> I just have to put things back together again.
[03:42:36] <ve7it> ... sometimes that can be a challenge
[03:42:49] <andypugh> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlJsPa6UwcM
[03:43:55] <ve7it> hehheh... built a HAM radio set... hmmm
[04:10:56] <Jymmm> ve7it: QRP?
[04:16:22] <Jymmm> ve7it: http://www.sparkbangbuzz.com/easy-ten/easy-ten.htm
[04:19:20] <ds3> build one of these - http://www.qsl.net/wb8rcr/FB40.html
[04:23:12] <ds3> hmmm there used to be another flavor of that with just the osc
[04:23:44] <andypugh> It's all so simple now we know so much.
[04:25:36] <andypugh> I wish those birds would shut up, I need to try to sleep at some point.
[04:25:59] <ds3> Need poutry? :D
[04:26:47] <andypugh> It's 0525, I have been struggling with git. I guess I could just stay up till tonight.
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[04:48:11] <ssi> man after my own heart
[04:48:22] <ssi> the whole having a job thing gets in the way of my late night projects though
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[04:54:28] <andypugh> I have no idea when I would sleep or wake with an independent income
[05:02:48] <jdhNC> whenever you wanted to
[05:03:31] <andypugh> I think I would lose contact with reality. I am a lucid dreamer too.
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[05:23:35] <andypugh> Night. Err, morning all. Good job I don't have work tomorrow
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[13:36:08] <Jymmm> Morning
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[15:34:30] <Connor> Okay, So, I got a dial indicator the other day.. and mounted it on my router mount.. What's the best approach to leveling up my table?
[15:35:22] <Connor> and, so that I don't drive myself insane, what should I shoot for in terms of tolerance ?
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[16:21:54] <jdhNC> go for 0.0001"
[16:22:19] <jdhNC> shim the table with cellophane
[16:37:59] cjdavis is now known as zombieDeckmaster
[16:38:22] zombieDeckmaster is now known as cjdavis
[16:41:49] <L84Supper> nah... use aluminum oxide particles as shims, work your way down to 5nm dia particles for 10nm accuracy :)
[16:48:15] <ssi> Connor: why don't you just use the router to mill the table flat? :P
[16:49:18] <Connor> ssi: 1) The beed is bigger than the cutting area. 2) The bed has Alum T bars in it. 3) It also has holes drilled in it for bolting things down.
[16:49:58] <Connor> jdhNC, L84Supper HA.. You guys are funny.
[16:50:06] <ssi> what are you going to make with the machine
[16:50:29] <cradek> your goal is to have the machine accurate enough to make the parts you need with the accuracy you need
[16:50:36] <ssi> exactly :)
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[16:51:08] <Connor> Why does everyone always ask that? The answer is: What ever I want.. Routing out PCB's. Cutting out shapes in plastic..
[16:51:28] <ssi> everyone asks it because that's how you figure out how flat it needs to be
[16:51:29] <Connor> Not much in the way of 3D.. but, depth still needs to be somewhat accurate.. at least for the PCB's.
[16:51:48] <ssi> how are you going to hold down pcbs?
[16:52:20] <Connor> standard clamps over top of a 3/4" MDF PCB holder I made.
[16:52:28] <Connor> I need to design something different.
[16:52:39] <ssi> well here's the thing
[16:52:40] <ssi> there's level
[16:52:42] <ssi> and then there's flat
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[16:53:05] <Connor> okay. needs to be flat.. and parallel to the gantry.
[16:53:09] <Connor> forget "level"
[16:53:12] <ssi> so long as the tool's XY plane is relatively coplanar with the table
[16:53:15] <ssi> call that "level"
[16:53:27] <ssi> I don't think flat is such a huge issue
[16:53:37] <ssi> I mean, flat to within .01" is probably fine
[16:53:57] <ssi> FR4 isn't going to take the dips and peaks of your spoilboard
[16:54:16] <Connor> FR4 ?
[16:54:21] <ssi> PCB
[16:54:23] <ssi> fiberglass
[16:54:29] <Connor> Yea.
[16:55:13] <ssi> I think your bigger issue is going to be probing the corners
[16:55:19] <ssi> and making sure that the bed is coplanar with the tool plane
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[16:58:01] <Connor> Well.. I guess I'll loosen up the bolts on the table using the Dial indicator on the corners.. and shim it level..
[17:00:55] <Connor> I wish I ad built in some adjustments in my gantry...
[17:01:34] <Connor> I could take care of any issue with the X axis with that.. then adjust the Y with the bed..
[17:03:45] <toastydeath> you'r going.. to shim a table?
[17:03:49] <toastydeath> *you're
[17:04:17] <IchGuckLive> ssi: did you check the plane hom mutch is the different to the corners ? 0.1mm or inch
[17:04:47] <Connor> the table in this case is the bed.. deck, spoiler board.. what ever you want to call it.
[17:05:33] <Connor> IchGuckLive: I'll have to run check it.. I'ts not THAT far off.. but.. could be as much as a 1/8 of a inch.
[17:05:55] <Connor> one 2nd.. h key on keyboard acting up..
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[17:07:53] <toastydeath> also it's not possible to seperate way error from table error without measuring way error first, you might as well just plane the table
[17:07:54] <Connor> Time to take the keyboard apart again and clean it.. ugg..
[17:09:39] <Connor> way error.. you mean the error in the height on the gantry as it moves back and forth ?
[17:09:58] <toastydeath> yes, as a function of the bearing surfaces.
[17:10:33] <ssi> IchGuckLive: not mine :)
[17:10:40] <IchGuckLive> ok
[17:11:11] <IchGuckLive> im going to programm now a Adruino AVR to join the C-axis of a Haas by M21
[17:11:12] <Connor> I hope that's not that far out.. I'm using supported Rails..
[17:11:14] <toastydeath> every bearing surface on the machine has effectively six degrees of error.
[17:11:22] <ssi> Connor: if you've got an eight of difference corner to corner, you'll definitely need to shim
[17:11:27] <ssi> but it's gonna be tricky
[17:11:32] <ssi> cause the table itself won't be all that rigid
[17:11:37] <ssi> it's just MDF, ya?
[17:11:44] <ssi> if you shim one corner, it'll likely sag
[17:11:48] <toastydeath> just write a program to plane the table
[17:11:51] <toastydeath> it's mdf
[17:11:56] <toastydeath> start it before you go to bed
[17:11:59] <ssi> youd probably be better off taking out your t-slots
[17:12:04] <ssi> putting down fresh mdf
[17:12:06] <ssi> planing it
[17:12:13] <ssi> then CNC cutting channels for your slots and reinstalling
[17:12:29] <ssi> that way everything is guaranteed coplanar with your motion
[17:12:31] <ssi> and square
[17:12:41] <fragalot> http://www.dealextreme.com/p/1000mw-445nm-blue-laser-pen-pointer-with-caps-batteries-set-2-x-16340-70889
[17:12:44] <fragalot> :o
[17:13:00] <ssi> 1W?
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[17:15:58] <fragalot> ssi: makes you curious how long it lasts with a heatsink that small huh :P
[17:16:06] <ssi> or batteries that small :P
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[17:18:32] <fragalot> http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-double-layer-face-mask-color-assorted-80285 lol hannibal :D
[17:18:45] <fragalot> ssi: actually those batteries are small and pack a big thump for their size
[17:19:02] <ssi> not familiar with them
[17:19:09] <ssi> look like CR123, but not sure if they are
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[17:25:03] <fragalot> http://www.dealextreme.com/p/survival-defensive-tactical-hidden-knife-ball-pen-47922 ahahahahahahahahahahaha
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[17:36:00] <psha> fragalot: such masks are really useful - i'm using one for several years :)
[17:36:22] <psha> however ear covering design is dumb
[17:36:40] <fragalot> lol
[17:36:41] <psha> and lack of valves is not nice too
[17:36:56] <fragalot> I just use the disposable gas mask from 3M
[17:37:05] <fragalot> works brilliantly (... not quite that cheap though)
[17:38:10] <psha> heh, i'm using mine for bike/skating
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[17:43:47] <ssi> ordered a bunch of cheapy tooling
[17:44:01] <ssi> and on a whim, got an endmill grinding fixture
[17:44:51] <toastydeath> ...just the fixture?
[17:45:51] <ssi> what else would I expect?
[17:45:56] <ssi> I doubt it comes with the endmills :D
[17:46:17] <ssi> http://www.cdcotools.com/item.php?itemid=137
[17:46:29] <ssi> that link doesnt work
[17:46:29] <ssi> heh
[17:46:33] <toastydeath> the rest of the tool grinder, i guess
[17:46:41] <ssi> I have a surface grinder
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[17:47:09] <toastydeath> that webpage auto redirects
[17:47:10] <toastydeath> wtf
[17:47:12] <ssi> yea
[17:47:15] <ssi> it's item 23350
[17:47:16] <ssi> fwiw
[17:48:04] <Jymmm> fscking frames
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[20:08:32] <Jymmm> How do you determine the circumference (length) of an arbitrary arc?
[20:08:45] <jdhNC> measure it
[20:09:01] <cradek> arc length is radius * included angle where angle is expressed in radians
[20:09:19] <jdhNC> that's not arbitrary, that's a known arc
[20:09:42] <cradek> Jymmm: say what you know about the arc to get a better answer
[20:11:02] <Jymmm> The distance between it's two end points, and the distance of the peak of the arc to where it intersects with the endpoints.
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[20:12:10] <Jymmm> Or the "height" or the arc if the end points were sitting on the table
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[20:12:42] <Jymmm> ( <--- turned clockwise 90 degrees
[20:14:50] <archivist> google chord, radius arc length
[20:15:48] <cradek> with arc width and height, you can calculate radius and included angle, and then you can directly find the arc length
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[20:17:51] <cradek> http://www.mathopenref.com/arcradius.html
[20:18:07] <cradek> here's a radius formula that probably breaks down at > semicircle, although they don't say that
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[20:22:14] <cradek> r = H/2 + (W^2)/8H
[20:22:26] <cradek> a = 2 asin(W/2r)
[20:22:30] <cradek> arc length = r * a
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[20:25:34] <cradek> for an example of W=3 H=1, r=1.625, a=2.352, arc len = 3.822
[20:26:23] <cradek> (if my math is right)
[20:29:00] <Connor> okay guys. Question. How would one mill a large round hole (say for a stepper motor) using a non CNC mill ? :)
[20:30:08] <cradek> Connor: there are many ways. you could use a rotary table, but that's a big pain. easier to scribe the circle and then rough it manually (just cutting up near the lines by running the wheels manually) and then finish up with a boring head.
[20:30:59] <Connor> I'm just thinking through the process of converting my soon to have mill to CNC.. and what I would have to do..
[20:31:07] <cradek> or if you're being silly, you could drill a hole and then use the boring head to enlarge it the whole way, but this would take forever.
[20:31:26] <Connor> Seeing as I can't use it to mill it's own self..
[20:32:21] <cradek> you could probably even use a hole cutter meant for wood, if you can run the spindle slow enough
[20:32:23] <Connor> looks like on most of these conversions, the X and Y are the easy part.. it's the Z that causes issues for people converting.
[20:32:25] <Jymmm> Heh,drill a hole in the plate mount it to the table and arc it against the
[20:32:31] <Jymmm> tool
[20:33:15] <Connor> what it comes down to, is having the right tool for the job.
[20:33:48] <Connor> Rotary table or boring head.. heck. a lathe might even be better jog for that (using 4 jaw chuck)
[20:33:50] <cradek> often what it comes down to is using your brain to do the job with the tools you have
[20:34:00] <Jymmm> Connor: you could just make an octogon
[20:34:11] <cradek> lathe and faceplate could would work too
[20:34:30] <cradek> yes maybe it doesn't even need to be round - you can do an octagon with two mountings.
[20:34:34] <Jymmm> mill a square, rotate the plate 45degrees, repeat
[20:34:56] <cradek> if you have a boring head the rough-manually-then-bore is really easy
[20:35:11] <cradek> it's like drawing a circle on an etch-a-sketch
[20:35:22] <Jymmm> impossible?
[20:35:34] <Connor> boring head.. kinda like a fly cutter except the bit on the outside edge instead of point down ?
[20:35:39] <cradek> just stay inside the lines. it doesn't have to be pretty - the boring head makes it round when you're done.
[20:35:56] <andypugh> A boring head is well worth having. I have three (but seem to be turning into a boring-head collector)
[20:36:09] <cradek> Connor: yes - and radius is adjustable with a screw so you can increase it a bit at a time.
[20:36:54] <andypugh> The expensive ones have a knurled ring you can just hold for a few cicks to cange the radius.
[20:37:11] <andypugh> (without stopping the spindle)
[20:37:12] <ds3> or use to face the bottom of a hole
[20:37:25] <cradek> http://www.americanmachinetools.com/how_to_use_a_milling_machine_files/Fig8-21.gif
[20:37:32] <cradek> picture of basic boring head
[20:37:49] <Connor> okay.. little different than I was thinking.. but.. same idea.
[20:38:05] <cradek> andypugh would laugh at this style, but it's cheap and sufficient for what you are doing.
[20:38:08] <cradek> :-)
[20:38:22] <andypugh> These are my nice ones: v
[20:38:24] <andypugh> https://picasaweb.google.com/bodgesoc/Gibbs#5584383602073848802
[20:38:45] <andypugh> (I ought to polish the taper on the little one)
[20:38:56] <cradek> they're pretty. have you cut anything with them? :-)
[20:39:05] <andypugh> No.
[20:39:14] <Jymmm> Connor: how thick?
[20:39:23] <andypugh> I don't have any way to hold the big one (it needs to g back on eBay)
[20:39:34] <Connor> How well does a mill deal with the offset nature of cutters like that in regards to vibrations?
[20:39:48] <andypugh> And I don't have any boring bars of the right size for the litle one (need to make the missing adaptor)
[20:39:48] <cradek> depends on the mill
[20:40:02] <Connor> Jymmm: No clue yet.. this was general question.. Just trying to get some insights into how to do stuff manually when I get my mill..
[20:40:04] <cradek> depends on how fast you spin it
[20:40:26] <Connor> I guess doing a boring operation, you would use low RPM
[20:40:35] <andypugh> I also have a cheap one (even cheaper than cradek's drawing) and even on my mini-mill it make beautiful holes.
[20:40:41] <cradek> yes if your radius is big, the rpm has to be very low
[20:41:16] <andypugh> Even when I end up re-assembling it back to front because the adjusting screw isn't long enough.
[20:41:22] <Jymmm> Connor: You could just drill a hole in the center, bolt it to the table, then lower the tooling to just inside the circle diameter you want, then slowly rotate the material. Crude but worse case scenario I guess
[20:41:56] <ds3> run boring heads slow!
[20:41:56] <Connor> Jymmm: Yea. I've done that with a Drimel before.. same idea.
[20:42:00] <Connor> with wood.. though
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[20:42:34] <Jymmm> Connor: or, just find someone that cna do it for you.
[20:42:35] <andypugh> Bolt the material to something else, with a spigot in the middle bolted to the table, offset the cutter and mill it by hand.
[20:42:39] <cradek> true - poor man's rotary table (be careful)
[20:43:07] <andypugh> The cutter will only ever push-off, not pull-in.
[20:43:12] <cradek> if you can - better yet - find someone that can do it for you on YOUR machine
[20:44:22] <andypugh> Alternatively, you could create a list of coordinates in Excel and manually interpolate the circle. I have a friend who did that to machine a bunch of special coach-bolt heads.
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[20:45:20] <Connor> That would be a heck of allot of holes.
[20:46:00] <andypugh> I wasn't meaning holes. I was meaning milling it.
[20:46:06] <cradek> that's called HNC (human numeric control)
[20:46:26] <Connor> Oh geez.. you mean etcha-sketch mode.
[20:46:28] <cradek> if you're going to clean up with a boring head anyway, just eyeball it - HNC is unneeded effort
[20:46:29] <andypugh> It isn't as hard as it sounds.
[20:46:59] <cradek> so what if it's hard - you make the part with what you have.
[20:47:03] <andypugh> Yes, etch-a-sketch, but looking at the dials not the work.
[20:47:14] <Connor> Well.. It's a mute point untilll sometime after may20th.
[20:50:19] <Connor> So, another general question.. Does ball screws typically need more torque to turn than a acme screw ?
[20:50:35] <Connor> I'm still trying to figure out why my screws take so much torque to turn.
[20:50:51] <cradek> ball screws have less friction but usually have coarser pitch
[20:50:57] <cradek> so it's hard to say
[20:52:10] <Jymmm> cradek: Is this correct? r = ((H/2) + ((W^2)/(8H)))
[20:52:13] <Connor> They're really nice a smooth before mounting them in the bearing blocks.. but, I swear, the way they're setup.. when i torque down the lock nut, they get much harder to turn.. even with the AC bearings.
[20:52:33] <anonimasu> sounds like bearing preload make that
[20:52:41] <cradek> Jymmm: I have you a sample with the answer - compare your answer to check
[20:52:44] <cradek> er, gave
[20:52:53] <anonimasu> or friction/stiction in the guideways if it's mounted
[20:53:04] <Jymmm> cradek: I have, I'm not even close.
[20:53:40] <Connor> anonimasu: It's not that.. I'm taking before even hooking the nut up to anything
[20:53:55] <Connor> I think the bearings I have in my mounts suck.
[20:54:03] <Connor> not enough angle on them.
[20:54:03] <anonimasu> sounds like bearing preload to me
[20:54:32] <anonimasu> my manual had a setup with a thrust bearing and alot of preload then a set of radials without preload
[20:54:41] <cradek> Jymmm: looks like that formula is the same as I gave you, with added parentheses
[20:54:58] <Connor> I was thinking of using a thrust bearing.. but, I think I'm out of roomb.
[20:55:07] <anonimasu> the schaublin people that is...
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[20:56:00] <andypugh> Connor" Are your bearings deep-grrove balls or Angular-contacts?
[20:56:14] <Connor> I have no idea.. what ever came with the blocks.
[20:56:21] <Connor> They looked like AC to me..
[20:56:31] <andypugh> If the latter, is it possible they the bearings are in back-to-front?
[20:56:47] <Connor> http://www.ivdc.com/cnc/BallScrew/3.jpg
[20:57:03] <Connor> http://www.ivdc.com/cnc/BallScrew/1.jpg
[20:57:13] <Connor> Pictures of them..
[20:57:36] <andypugh> Yes angular contacts.
[20:57:51] <Connor> Yes, they're back to back.
[20:58:12] <andypugh> Should they be face-to-face? It depends on the mounting which is correct.
[20:58:18] <Connor> or face to face.. I can't recall.. but, I've tried it both ways.
[20:58:45] <andypugh> Ah, OK.
[20:59:12] <ssi> 16:23 < cradek> or if you're being silly, you could drill a hole and then use the boring head to enlarge it the whole way, but this would take forever.
[20:59:14] <Connor> At this point.. I'm done dealing with it.. I think I've got it working the best it's going to with what I have..
[20:59:15] <ssi> silly, eh? :P
[20:59:21] <ssi> I use my boring head for everything
[20:59:57] <Connor> I think I might re-work the driver board since it's a chines crap board and see if I can get a little more juice out of it..
[20:59:58] <andypugh> Me too, I have bored from 20mm drilled hole to 60mm dia
[21:00:00] <cradek> ssi: I think it's silly to rough with one when you can use a drill or end mill instead...
[21:00:18] <cradek> it would be so tedious :-)
[21:00:22] <ssi> it can be tedious
[21:00:37] <andypugh> At that point I only had the Z motorised.
[21:00:44] <ssi> the only drill chuck I have on an R8 arbor at the moment is 3/8"
[21:00:50] <ssi> so I don't really have roughing options too large
[21:01:02] <ssi> I usually start at a 3/8" drill, then bore to size
[21:01:02] <cradek> ssi: you can drill more than one hole!
[21:01:03] <ssi> works ok for me
[21:01:07] <andypugh> ssi: Blacksmith drills
[21:01:10] <ssi> now THAT sounds tedious ;)
[21:01:21] <cradek> yeah, that's why I said use an end mill :-)
[21:01:38] <cradek> drive it around in a vaguely-circular shape, plonk, scrap falls out, then bore a few times to make it round
[21:01:49] <cradek> bonus: piece of scrap plate leftover
[21:01:52] <andypugh> ssi: http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=blacksmith's+drills&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1457652379631144124&sa=X&ei=HeG1TfHGBNSs8QOyupHQAQ&ved=0CE8Q8gIwBA#
[21:02:11] <ssi> I've got S&D drills, but they're all 1/2" shank
[21:02:20] <ssi> I really just need to get a 5/8" chuck to complement my 3/8
[21:03:05] <ssi> I have one, but it's on an MT arbor on the big lathe
[21:03:12] <ssi> tooling is expensive
[21:03:20] <ssi> tooling * 6 machines is ridiculously expensive :(
[21:03:45] <Connor> How does the backlash compensation work in EMC ?
[21:03:58] <ssi> adds extra steps on reversal
[21:04:37] <Connor> but, you have to know the amount of backlash.
[21:04:50] <ssi> yeah, measure it
[21:04:54] <ssi> put a dial indicator on it
[21:04:55] <Connor> and it has to be consistant.
[21:04:57] <ssi> put emc in .001 step mode
[21:05:07] <ssi> jog it in one direction til the needle moves
[21:05:09] <ssi> zero the dial
[21:05:17] <ssi> jog the other direction, count steps til the needle moves
[21:05:20] <ssi> that's your backlash
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[22:16:50] <Connor1> Ugg.. My freaking Z and router mount have allot of flex in it.. or something..
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[22:17:39] <Jymmm> Just a reminder kids... Date and replace those smoke alarm batteries!!!!
[22:18:45] <Connor1> If I push down on the end of the router mount.. I can change the Dial Indicator reading.. if I push it up.. I can change it again.. and it can stay in either place..
[22:19:05] <Connor1> not sure what's the deal is.. of course.. this is MDF.. so, I might be at my limits in accuracy.
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[22:41:13] <JT-Shop> crap! more rain... I hope my emergency storm drains work and don't get washed away :/
[22:44:59] <JT-Shop> I think I'll just shut everything down and go inside...
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[23:35:40] <mikegg> yep, raining here too
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[23:51:56] <ssi> sigh
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[23:52:04] <ssi> I need to re-engineer my X ballnut mount
[23:52:06] <ssi> and I don't wanna