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Mendel|beer is now known as Mendel|bored
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Jymmmmmmmmmmmmm is now known as Jymmmmmmmmmmmm
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Jymmmmmmmmmmm is now known as Jymmm
Srpski is now known as Dannyboy
Just this once .. here's the log: http://www.linuxcnc.org/irc/irc.freenode.net:6667/emc/2010-08-10.txt
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yeaterday i ran a program(mill not on) and i saw it skip a command(x .01) is that my max jitter which is about 32000 right now ?
computer is runnning slow and graphic card(radeon hd4550) not right
but i'm not worried about the card( emc works) unless THAT is the problem
had my base_period at 45000 untill yesterday when i jumped it up to 50000
piasdom: what means skip a command ?
was moving to x.01 the was suppose to go to y.01, but didn't go to y.01..... when to command after that x0 y0
section of code .... http://pastebin.com/z6tCcDwG
[10:55:29] <alex_joni> http://softsolder.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/ten-pound-hershey-bar.jpg
piasdom: do you have g64 mode in gcode?
micges_work: yes .005
g64 p.005 q.005
alex_joni: p - blen tolerance value, q - naive cam tolerance value
I've splitted it in 2.4
alex_joni: that's what i saw in info
piasdom: try with q = 0
should be ok
micges_work: k Thanks
micges_work: the higher the value, the tighter the tolerance ?
higher value = more tolerance
sorry I've readed 'higher tolerance' :P
* micges_work need more coffee
does the help with all motion or it more for g2,g3 ? and do i really need it just to cut pockets ?
piasdom: any motion
but more likely to be noticed on G1's
alex_joni: thanks ... i would have know it if i wasn't watching the movements
cassie is now known as Guest84019
someone here ?
problem with "touch off"
tell us about it :)
perhaps some1 can help
can't give any value different than "0"
if I try anything else, it say 'bad number format"
and the "ok" button turns gray
what emc version is this?
from mozmck experimental packages
I ever had this problem before, but can't put a hand on the solution you guys gave me...
I'm sure I wrote it somewhere...but where ? :P
do you have a gcode program loaded?
I can pastebin it if needed
can you pastebin it?
here it is http://pastebin.ca/1914447
but I'm unable to touche off
I can't put any value different than 0
something new : now when I try to touch off it says "unable to open file" in the touch off dialog
strange, I don't see a problem (on 2.4.2)
but still no way to enter any value
is your disk full or anything weird like that?
I know I had the problem and someone here gave me the solution
what configuration are you running?
sim? sample config? one of your own making in your home directory?
my gluing machine config : something initially created with stepconf, then I moified a lot the HAL file
I just wanted to write something with the glue...
ok so it's in your home directory
are permissions on the files correct? var file writable? directory writable?
for what I know, yes. I have not changed any file since the last time it worked right
try restarting emc and touch off before loading any file
So I must change my ini file
as I load my guing program when EMC starts
cradek: how much was that encored that you have on your spindle? http://timeguy.com/cradek-files/cnc/lathe/DSCN6300.JPG
elmo40: I did not buy it new. they are quite expensive.
guessing they are around $400
that I my stumbling block.
cradek, same thing
when I open the touch off dialox box
bricofoy: I wonder if that's related to the behavior? something is different from when it worked...
whaever axe is selected
when i click in the box to enter the value, "unable to open file" appears underit, and "OK" button turns gray
For what I remind from the last time it happened, it was something quite stupid.
but I really can't find where I wrote the solution :/
when I click touch off, the dialog pops up. the number is highlighted already, so I can type a number, like 1
when I type 1, it says underneath "= 1.000000 in" and OK is active
can you say very exactly what you are doing
elmo40: hollow shaft encoders are expensive - a better way is to use a 1:1 toothed belt and a normal encoder
elmo40: then you can bore the pulley to whatever size you need
I home the machine, then load the file, then jog to where the job is, then click on "touch off", then the dialog pops up, with "0.0" selected. Unfortunately, 0 is not the right value for me, so I delete this zero then try to enter the value. At the moment I delete the "0.0" it says "bad number format", then I enter the value i need, and it says "unable to open file", an "OK" turns gray
how do you delete the value
as the 0.0 is selected, if enter the value without deleting with delete key, same thing, it says "unable to open file"
tell me what you click/type
just opening the touch off box then pressing "1" key and OK turns gray and the message "unable to open file" appears in the touch off box
is there some way to search in IRC history ?
because this problem was solved here a few months ago
sometimes google but not very well.
Has anyone ever seen these "pins" off-the-shelf, or something like it? http://www.litografa.lt/index.php?aid=360
just in India Jymmm
JT-Work: What were they used for?
bricofoy: this was fixed May 17. update to the latest 2.4 release.
I really am not a fan of the way those photos enlarge... drives me nuts.
JT-Work: I thought you were going to say that
sorry I could not resist
JT-Work: It's all good. But have you ever seen anything like that?
no, but it doesn't look complicated to make
how big is your table?
JT-Work: The table, no. The pins, yes. Especially with no lathe
bricofoy: when you tested without loading your program first, the problem should have gone away because the splash screen gcode does not have %. did you actually do that test?
Jymmm: I have never seen the 'honey table' they are talking about.
how many pins do you think there are on a 12 x 24 table
JT-Work: looks those are 1.5" apart.
you looking at the image with the ruler?
JT-Work: I was thinking instead of a pure XY grid, to add in some zig-zag holes (just incase you have to support those odd-ball shapes.
I just wish I could make it out of MDF, less the formaldhyde.
cradek, OK you found it ! :) it reaaly was that damn "%"
yes I know i should upgrade, but for know it works fine for the production
JT-Work: Hmmmm, MDF + 1/8" dowel pins???
so I stays like that until I have some time left
thanks a lot ! :)
bricofoy: yes but it's pretty maddening to debug problems that are already solved
will write this in a safe place this time :)
It planned to upgrade to 10.04 and the latest EMC version
it is planned
Jymmm: you could just get some 1/8 dowel pins and make a aluminum plate with a bunch of holes in it
JT-Work: I just thought about that design, in that I lose the ruler/edge along the top and side to align the workpiece to.
you could have longer pins on two sides to align the edges to
JT-Work: The plate needs to butt up againest the existing rulers/guides, the plate would need to overlap and be thick enough
Srpski is now known as Dannyboy
I'd need something like this...
just need to mill a lip on your plate
JT-Work: Cool, can you ship it by Friday? ;)
I'm off friday sorry and my mill is too small to do 12x24 most I can do is about 9x24 If I had one like cradek I could do it...
JT-Work: Since the surface needs to be flat, what aluminum would you suggest?
6061 should work... by flat do you mean 0.0001" per foot or something a little less flat
JT-Work: The laser beam has to focus on the surface, so if there's any distortion in the height effects the final results.
what is the tolerance?
JT-Work: I really don't know.
I just want a wavy plate 6 months down the road.
without knowing what the flatness tolerance is it is tough to guess how flat is flat
get mic6 whatever thickness you want - don't face it - just mill one edge like your picture
but I agree if you don't know how flat is flat enough, don't start buying or cutting
Jymmm: I can make anything...
make those pins
mill your plate
Heh, Mic6 does NOT like to be annodized
JT-Work: cradek I seriously doubt that "machinist flat" is of any significance, and I say that because the material being laser cut sure isn't. Mostly look for something that won't bow/flex or become wavy/distorted 3 or 30 months down the road.
even if mishandled slightly
a 12 x 24 piece of 1/2" thick 6061would be hard to mishandle...
12x24x.5 mic6 at metalexpress is $116
6061 is $101
for $15 more...
Is M6 the same thing?
what is mic6?
stress-free cast aluminum, good for fixture plates
M6 ALUMINUM PLATE
"Aluminum Cast Plate produced by Alcoa. Using proper aluminum machining methods, tolerances in the thousandths can be consistently maintained. MIC 6® Aluminum Cast Plate is finished to 20 microinches typical on both sides. Thickness tolerances is within +/-.005"" from nominal on 1/4""- 4"".Flatness tolerance is maintained within .015"" on 1/4""-5/8"" thickness and .005"" on 3/4""- 4"" thickness. Thermal Cycling can be performed up to 800° F un
der controlled conditions.
sorta like cold-rolled steel? only al?
elmo40: scroll up
the exact opposite of cold-rolled steel
cold-rolled steel is extremely stressed
never try to face a plate of cold roll flat, you will end up killing yourself in frustration
heh, you can make it flat, right until you unbolt it from the table...
I had a bit of scrap that turned out to be coldroll that I ground flat, indicated over it to check, then took it off the mag chuck and moved it to the surface plate to check again
it was only off by like .0003" over 12" or something like that
came back the next day, it was over .002" out of flat
6061T6 13x25x0.5" = $117.98, M6 13x25x05" = $128.20
Wow, I really like their new shopping cart... https://www.metalsupermarkets.com
alex_chally: grinding half as much on both sides might have helped, but either way it's a bad idea if you need it to be flat
Tad more expensive that what cradek quoted, but they are local so I cna pickup.
cradek, I had ground both sides :/
they are really nice too, I don't now how many times I've gone in there for something and they have just given it to me.
local would sure be nice.
Is it a good idea to surface 6061?
probably safe, but better not to
get the thickness you need
I meant primarily to have a smooth/even finish free of blemishes.
mic6 comes with a nice flat ground surface - you won't improve it on a milling machine
The thing with M6 is that it doens't annodize very well, they say due to the Si content in it
oh this is to be anodized? I don't know anything about that.
Well, if I annodize it, it'll help reduce flash/reflects from the laser buncing off it and hitting the bottom of the material being cut
is it still focused enough to matter when that happens?
Yeah, think if it hits a pin that the material is sitting on. This has been the issue with these types of plates in the past. It leaves a mark on the workpiece
the material gets hot and soft, and anything hitting it leaves a mark
Now for pins.... Does anyone know of any annodized pins by chance? It seems that locksmith pinning kit pins go as tall as .320"
[16:18:43] <Jymmm> http://www.matunuck-point-sales.com/tsi/sp/rp.htm
all lock components are brass or bronze. good to know.
the better ones?
the cheap ones use aluminum
NEVER buy a lock that has an aluminum key
elmo40: the pins in a lock are brass to prevent manipulation using a magnet, but the springs can still be of a ferious material at times, some are pure brass in others.
heh, OneCNC is finally making a post for EMC2!
If I have a 0.125" round pin, and I want to insert/remove it by hand, but not so loose that the hole size changes the height of the pin, what size hole should I have?
a 0.125 reamer will leave a slip fit if your pin is not oversize
ream with an "oversize" dowel pin reamer
it's probably 1255
same goes with 0.095" diameter pin
right but beware dowel pins are oversize
Sure, I'll mic the pins ahead of time to verify, but what's the rule on hole size for somethign like this?
[16:41:33] <cradek> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=67&PMITEM=319-0729
seems like good choices are 1255 and 1265
the pins I normally use are Actual diameter is +0.0002" over the nominal diameter with a tolerance of ±0.0001", unless noted.
yes dowel pins will be about .1252
just depends on your runout of your quill what size hole you end up with sometimes
for another make: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=69&PMCTLG=00
says DP O/S is .126
still no clue here to open up a new page into wiki
just add the title to the main page then save then click on the ? to create the new page, but there might be other ways that I don't know about
i will try it out
JT-Work: so far so good but not all pages are listed here or? so are there subfolders?
as specel there are pages named G12-G13 this are not in the main list but in the page list
what page are you looking at?
[16:52:42] <IchGuckLive> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl
Um, dumb question... Why did you guys link to reamers? I would need to drill holes, wouldn't it make more sens to use the next size up drill bit?
did you add that page?
no i still suerching for the unterfolder to put it in
jymm a drill will leave a hole but it might not be to size or very smooth or round
I don't understand underfolder?
are you talking about like Oword under Using EMC2?
no i want to ad a subroutine for G150 Rectangular
Main Folderr is Using EMC2
i see there is M100-199
subfolder Advanced examples of using emc2:
but where the Hell are the sides named G12-G13
that is just page formmating
if you didn't add it then it won't be there
why im aasking for
i now setup the 48th EMC2
[16:58:51] <Jymmm> http://wiki/MyNewPageGoesHere
and alot of people using the wiki or the Docu from the main
if you want to add a link to the g12 page under m100 just copy the formatting of m100
but there are all asking the same quest cause there are Haas people
if your page is all ready existing then the link works if not a ? is added to create a new page
yes im with you i will now start worke
I must do some work now too
Done with G12
Fox_M|afk is now known as Fox_Muldr
IchGuckLive: 48th EMC2 machine?
so far I am getting the hand of HeeksCNC... I like it :)
IchGuckLive: pair your subroutines up with Dewey's subroutine gui and you can have one button to start the sub http://www.linuxcnc.org/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,20/func,view/catid,40/id,3408/lang,english/
JT-Work: iwill do if i be finisched with the python Gui first
elmo40: compilesd or windows
oh cool your making a python gui for subroutines?
Jt for the Circular and the rectangular pocket
but im asked to stay with standard Gcode not Emc2 specel
standard is a better idea.
I'm making one in C with gtk
EMC2 makes the code out of the python
I don't understand
elmo40: awallin did the hell of new Things into it dayly updates
micges: get the photo urls?
JT-Work: in axis you load the .py and make the changes you want and then hit Write to Axis and there is the G-code
there are other ways to send the code to Axis as Dewey has done
the simple g code generators do that after jepler told me how :)
i new but it is best for workaround just hit "O" and ther are all the good thinks available
Most Emc2 users work that way as i new them
Jymmm oil water & dry are 3 different sized reamed holes, and to make it way big, we used shim stock to force it large
anyone know where i can find round tubing(alum) with 1.375id and .1 wall ?
not all are milling thinks like that -> http://www.pictureupload.de/originals/pictures/100810192919_mount_rushmore.png
piasdom: where in the world are you ?
go to BP
British petroleum ? :) we have enough from them :)
piasdom: you looking to turn the OD or ID or both or not?
want to get as close as possible to finish product as not to warp too much
piasdom: in Harvey is a alu pipe selling company
id needs to be 1.375
lathe here is not big enough to bore 14"
IchGuckLive: know the name of the comp ?
[17:38:30] <IchGuckLive> http://www.metalsalesusa.com/contact.html
they make parts so they have always litel giveaways for people like us
so the sun is going down here
tomorrow only thunderstorms in forcast
JT-Work: can i ad a picture thru upload ?
As far as being deformed, do you think 0.190" 6061 plate would be ok?
Jymmm: I don't see how you think we can answer that...
I've never worked with it, I thought someone here might have.
well sure I've used plate that thickness...
Mendel|bored is now known as mendel|wine
cradek: Does it hold it's "flatness"? warp? flex? bow? etc
It won't be thrown across the yard or anything, but might be stored on edge, etc.
get bumbed, fall over, etc
IchGuckLive: yes just look at other pages with pictures
thickness is not the only measurement needed for stiffness
Jymmm: with normal handling it would not bow warp flex bow any more than it did when you machined it...
JT-Work: Can surfacing the edges effect it much?
it can but it is hard to say what it will do... why don't you try some peg board covered with aluminum foil for testing... but I didn't tell you that
if you're making a kind of table, you won't regret making it thicker than you absolutely need
JT-Work: I was thinking of playing with the stuff they use for bench tops, much denser than MDF, dark brown in color.
cradek: it will matter since the total weight goes up :)
yes and that's always good!
at least my last few constructions were way to heavy to lift them
that's good because then you always know where to find it
ya... on the floor
I always over-engineer my tables.
good way to have them last forever ;)
I build one with more than 150kilogramms... now I am a litte cured of 'make it bigger' :D
[18:08:25] <IchGuckLive> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?G150
is the picture there ?
elmo i need for most 150x150mm most parts 95% have 50x50x25mm
the machine does 750mm
ries_ is now known as ries
it is good to have a larger table then necessary.
then you can gang-mill multiple parts at the same time
and try to use the entire machine. if not, you risk wearing out one part of the sliders/rails/linear bearings prematurely
vector pin tables at http://www.classact.net/
and this guy used phenolic http://www.flickr.com/photos/solarbotics/4807769462/
JT-Work: i optimised the side a bit for better viewing
[18:21:10] <IchGuckLive> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?G12-13
if phenolic works, then for 'stiff' and 'stabile' I suggest 'greenglass' like this ( see mil specs ) http://www.mcmaster.com/#grade-g-10/fr4-phenolic/=8cgabt
so im done for today i edited and finalased the g150 on the wiki http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?G150
By for today
Guys, I have been BLOWN AWAY by the ability to use EMC2 G-Code as a programming language: subs, local variables, conditions, etc.
My servos have a plain 11mm dia shaft with a threaded hole in the end. To mount the pulleys I am considering making a split, tapered sleeve to fit in a tapered bore in the pulley, then pulling it all up against the shaft shoulder with a bolt in the end. Does that sound like it would work? (I dislike grub screws and the wall thickness will be a bit thin, and I would be drilling the toothed profile too)
Yeah, I have no idea if the O-words are unique to EMC2 or whether other dialects use them.
Been coding a lot of useful subroutines for pocketing etc. Now I have a question: Can I pass a subroutine name into a subroutine. Say I want to do "for all bolt hole pattern points" "do something" and I pass name of that something
But looping until you are at the diameter is great (especially starting from a random point)
andypugh: my servos use such tapered sleeves
You can only pass across numbers, I think.
ngc doesn't have strings, but if your subroutines are numbers, yes you can do that
like O[#100] call (I think)
(sleeves) I have used the Trantorque bushes with great effect, but don't have the diamter for them, so basically my plan is to use the pulley itself as the outer half
OK, maybe I will do some giant switch statement type of thing
andypugh: a lot of machines use tapered collet-like things to clamp to motor shafts
Aye, I am familiar with Trantorque and Taper-lok.
OK, thanks, need to think about it.
can you just mill a key slot in the motor shaft?
ichudov: I think cradek is saying that if you have a subroutine defined by "O120 SUB" then "O [100 + 20] CALL" will call it. as will O[#1 + #2]. So you can pass the name of a subroutine to a subroutine, for a limited class of subroutine names.
yes I'm pretty sure that's true (but I didn't try it)
Might be tricky with the shaft in still in the motor.
yeah depending on the stickout.
Also, that should work for a subroutine called "120" in a file called "120.ngc"
I have never passed parameters to a subroutine, but I thing it is O<subname> CALL #1 #2 #3
no, O... call [...] [...] [...]
then inside the sub you get #1 ... #n
See how this works? I make egregiously false statments, and that prompts folk who know the truth to answer. :-)
andypugh: dad liked your eccentric - he says you should thread a hexagonal shaft ;)
andypugh, you may love these subs and stuff, it is just like real programming
You mean like andypugh is a saint
I'm at least as eccentric as andypugh is
I can define O100 inline, right before calling a function that calls o100, it will work
Actually, a threaded hexagonal shaft would be one way to make a hex broach.
The killer-app for the non-circular turning might be boring D-shaped holes for couplings. I need to see if it works for that.
Can I have a coordinate system that is not only shifted, but also rotated
Hmmm, it ought to work for D-shaped, square and hexagonal holes on a milling machine with a boring head (and spindle encoder). Now that would be fun!
yes, G10 ... R
ichudov: isn't emc2 awesome? :)
I am about to EXPLODE ffrom EMC, it is better thanm drugs
I have been programming functions like mad
already wrote 9
With a pyvcp panel you can then have a set of buttons and textboxes with sizes in them, where you jog to the middle, hit the button, emc2 reads out the width, breadth and radius and mills a pocket.
A bit like my lathe setup (which I have now somewhat changed) http://www.bodgesoc.org/lathe/lathe.html
Random thought. Could a flatbed plotter with a stylus cur Gestetner wax masters to be used to silksceen PCBs and control panels?
andypugh: do you have a flatbed plotter?
I have already used the plotter to make these: http://picasaweb.google.com/bodgesoc/Gibbs#5478341215134773746
those are made by stacking?
I see like 50+ photos
Lots of layers of label paper, cut out with a vinyl knife from an STL file.
ok, I see it now
direct link? http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tjht3D69CSp25i9tYwD7dg?feat=directlink
google was being weird
you have pics of the plotter?
Not of my particular one, but it is one of these: http://www.synthfool.com/laser/dxy880.jpg
andypugh: And what did you do/use to replace a pen with a knife?
I machined a holder, and bought a commercial knife.
andypugh: Isn't the knife blade offset kinda like this (sideways) --> ______/----
They have a tiny amount of castor.
andypugh: do oyu have a link to the pic of the knife you use?
No, sorry. But it is just a round rod, sharpened to a blade with the point slightly off-centre
They cost <$5 on eBay
I made a brass holder with an adjustable end-stop and containing a teeny ball-bearing.
I have an HP plotter that I'm getting rid of. Comes with the full service manual including schematics. It has GPIO interface
which model? doesn't also have serial?
they have little servos in them
This is an 'A', mine is a 'C' wiht eight pens http://www.hpmuseum.net/images/9872A-35.jpg
cradek: HP 9872C
I bet jepler could use it to plot stuff from his ancient storage scope...
You're right HP-IB, no serial port.
I could use it to plot stuff from _my_ ancient storage scope.
I collect HP...I need the storage scope too
We threw out a load of HP data-acquisition stuff a while back. 256 channels @ 92kHz
[20:54:15] <cradek> http://www.360tech.com/catalog/7550b-11x17-wide-format-autofeed-plotter-rs232hpib-interface-7550b-refurbished-p-32530.html
I have one of these, but sadly it quit working a couple years ago
it's the cadillac of 11x17 plotters. it can hold a ream of paper and auto-load, then drop them out the back when done.
Jymm electrostatic bed? ( some HPs didnt need anything to hold down the paper, dont cut into that )
tom3p: Yes. and no I wouldn't.
cradek, did you steal the servos for your little lathe from a plotter? they look like the ones I found in mine I scrapped (Pittman)
Since I have the laser now, I really don't have a need for it. I can't toss a spindle on it as the swarf with fall into the electronics.
And it's just BIG to store.
My flatbed plotter also works for PCBs, with an OHP pen drawing the tracks (followed by olde-school etching)
archivist: I think jmk found them in a dumpster. he gave them to me a long time ago.
real collectors create space to store
andypugh: I was thinking etching AND drilling
andypugh: cool! what kind of pen?
archivist: I have hit the ceiling in storage.
Just a Staedtler Lumocolor
Jymmm, I added another shed!
that works well as etch resist?
I've tried sharpie, and it doesn't work at all
I would LOVE to turn it into a PCB mill, if anyone has ideas on how to keep the swarf out of the electronics
Yes, it works fine. I have heard the red works best.
With eight pens, could make them drill and mill holders
[21:00:00] <andypugh> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95B8PDlnajk
is the PCB I made with the OHP-pen resist (You can see it at about 4 seconds onwards)
I will file that information away in my memory meat
heh need more spindle speed!
Right, back to the workshop. (Pattern-making)
any automatic drilling is such luxury... you can go blind fast doing it manually.
Hey guys, I just broke a brand new tap, 5/16-18, in a .257" hole. Acted like the hole was too tight, but that is what the handbook says. So how big a hole do you folks drill?
drilling by hand makes you a fan of SMT
Naw, using tailstock
Might have been a faulty tap.
carbon or hss tap
brand new Irwin/Hanson
lube or dry, and what metal
cutting oil, 3/4" cold rolled rod from tractor suppy
On the way in, or backing out?
going in, I can cut with another tap, but only about 1/2 trun per backout & clean
(I have a feeling that the old advice to back out every half turn is counterproductive with modern taps. My favourite tap-wrench takes batteries.
wish mine did.
cold rolled can be hard
It's a cordless drill.
Cold-drawn can be immensely hard.
must be 24 volt with big balls
It may be, the drill brought out a lot of dust.
(I admit I don't go much above M6 with the drill)
You might have found an inclusion, they migrate to the middle
Trying to make a gate latch, useing 1" sq tube, some 3/8 floor flanges drilled for 3/4", then couple the long bar on the far side to a handle of the same stuff on the other side of the swinging doors, to drop a lock bar into hooks
thios piece of 3/4" is the through axle.
But after doing it twice, its time fora coolout, and a beer, but I have to go get it, darnit. 97F here in the shop.
is that hole the right size?
Later, ac time
that plotter had an interesting 'tool changer' feature. you press the button near the tool station and the machine changed to that tool.
tom3p: which plotter?
They HP one I have changes tools damn fast!
tools = pens
Jymmm, yes your plotter has the cool ATC ( and HPGL interpreter built in )
Yeah, HPGL/2 is awesome, I can send it directly to the laser too.
Using "pen colors" as laser power levels
this laser is what needs the bed of nails?
Heh, yeah. It's a raised bed cutting table, so there is lots of airflow under the material when cutting
They typically use honeycomb cutting tables, but many have issues with leaving marks on the back of the material beign cut
yeah the material cut has fumes that react , the bed o nails has great airflow
iirc there was a water bath too ( i remmeber fishing slugs outta the water between the nails, not sure why that was there
Yeah, I think even better than the honeycomb, and MUCH cheaper too
Maybe for the laser to disperse into?
water is a great heat conductor
btw some open code for manipulating gcode ( post post ) http://code.google.com/p/grecode/
has some tricks for the trailing drag knife
note its .ngc files
tom3p: I'd love to turn the plotter into a PCB mill - somehow
I think that a laser would really struggle to cut metal that was underwater, the heat would be conducted away too quickly, so metal under water == laser backstop.
It seems that PEN_UP/PEN_DOWN is really an magnetic solenoid, so *maybe* if the spindle was connected by a belt it could do it. But no idea on how to keep swarf out of the electronics
Move the electronics to another box?
then it would still get into the mechanics
did oyu see the pic?
water under metal == laser backstop ;)
Fox_Muldr is now known as Fox_M|afk
Water on/in laser electronics == boat anchor
hmmm goto IMTS next month and see what/how the manufacturers do it
water + laser = sauna?
what is most perf board made from, fiberglass?
I think they sell both FR4 and SRBP
So that's epoxy/fibreglass and paxolin (or paper and bakelite if you pefer)
FR4 being fiberglass?