parsec is a somewhat "metric" unit
DaViruz, the parsec might be the coolest unit ever
what can I do find Mister MattyMatt
at least the most clever
Planck length, the only non-arbitrary unit.
he will be around on here sometimes
i don't mind arbitraryness
for those that are not aware, planck length is the smallest divisible unit of distance
you actually can not have a length smaller then planck length
which still blows my mind
isn't it the maximum distance something can move in a plank time?
The Megaparsec.barn is about a teasponful. Which considering how very, very, long it is, and how very, very, thin comes as a bit of a surprise.
sure you can
a plank length on the other hand is a common unit used by pirates
I actually do all my my machining in rods and furlongs
and time in micro-fortnights?
actually I measure time in yattodays
G7, G8 is too limiting, we want G20.1 for feet, G20.2 for furlongs....
(Sorry, the G7 and 8 there were meant to be 20 and 21)
so I have been thinking about how to properly lubricate my ballscrews
what mechanisim do those one shot oilers use to slow the stroke down so much?
I actually have a one shot integral to my saddle
maybe I should just automate it
and make a new manifold
According to New Scientist an Aeon == a myriad hectomillenia
alex_chally: I have always assumed that the slow stroke is down to oil viscosity and small holes
cradek: i would fail, i don't own a tape measure
I believe I own several. I have certainly bought them.
FL i hope is F????? LATHE, but i can't think of any technical F* around lathe types
then the other problem is the force required to work the pump
which is large
so a lever of some sort is going to be necessary
andypugh: +-.0001 is, um, "fun", we already roll the welder behind the lathe when we run pump shafts with .0005 (total) tolerance bearing seats
On that eBay there is an auction for "Rare Victoria Verical Mill". Now, why would _anyone_ want a "rare" machine tool? I guess the answer is "nobody" as it consistently fails to sell.
part of me wishes I had just bought a damn bridgeport :)
[00:16:38] <andypugh> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rare-Victoria-Turret-Milling-Machine-/200489646514
the placement of Y and Z cranks so close to eachother seems kinda... annoying
is that riding on rails?
That does look like a flaw..
has anyone done a conversion on a horizonta/vertical as a combo turning/milling center?
obviously you could not cut on things in the horizontal spindle using the vertical spindle
morfic: My first job was finding a way to machine 100um glass fibres into 1um slices, then further reduce them to 10nm with ion beams.
hey, how stable are linear ways (and i intentionally give no further info, since i hope to get a "if you get X size, it's ok" type answer), i only know linear ways for those 16' printers we built, so to hear "let's mill our machine bed and replace the ways with linear ways" leaves me puzzled
who said/did that morfic?
andypugh: is that still machining or is it more Pfrimeln ?
alex_chally: i can't say, but pretty much anyone can guess it must have come out of my boss' mouth if they read me talking about our retrofit since April... :>
alex_chally: Tormach do a little lathe for the milling machine bed, where the lathe tool is fixed to the mill quill.
alex_chally: Most waylube oiling systems have metering orifices (that can plug up with tarry way oil if they sit around for a few months/years) The guy in the following thread that says you can't really clean them, just replace them, is right. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/lube-system-orifice-fittings-how-much-pressure-122154/
10nm, i can manage that with a hacksaw and file
Annoyingly the 8 little metering orifices (50um) in my injector spontaneously unblocked, making the problem car a good car, and ending the investigation. Annoying, because making that car good again was _not_ the point. The point was making sure that customer cars don't go bad.
i need to read through my ballscrew's manual to figure out the proper lube it needs
Linear ways are _not_ stiffer or more accurate than a conventional bed,
hopefully it will want way oil so I can just cut a new manifold for the one shot and plumb it into the ballnuts
And they are unlikely to be straighter without a lot of metrology (bit then _with_ the metrology they can be arbitrarily straight)
alex_chally: ours eats waylube
i need to find someone a thousand years old to teach me how to scrape ways
alex_chally: they still teach scraping in apprentice ships....
Sorry, I fail the age test, but I have scraped ways
it's something i do not want to do the way i learned it though, not on the size ways i see
In fact, Until last weekend I didn't own a way I hadn't scraped
all i was taught was the good old flat scrapers
I am rather hoping that Harrison (of Heckmondwike) knew what they were doing rather better than Sundeep Chuan Inc (or whoever made my lathe/mill)
morfic, does it needa lot of oil?
I have to admit I love that place name.Heckmondwike (near Cleckheaton) as a place name makes it clear that for a long time bits of the UK were not under the control of the same culture as other bits.
the other problem is that the oil tank in the saddle is pretty tiny
can a linear way be as stiff as a regular way?
maybe 250ml tops
alex_chally: no, i said eats because we noodle our stuff so bad before we get stuff fixed
Valen: i don't see it, which is why i ask about it, i hope to be wrong :)
crap, I am going to have to come up with some kind of y axis ballscrew cover too
Valen: I would guess not. If you mean a ball-guided way then the contact areas are necessarily tiny. On the other side of the coin the friction is reduced, so you can run zero clearance.
Bah, looks like http://www.pastebin.ca/
is down? It's just loading/waiting here.
* alex_chally really wants a cool sheetmetal sliding shell way cover thingy
you can preload up a linear way
KimK: looks dead
Valen, yes. That is what I was trying to say.
don't they use linear bushings on ground rails for really high loads?
alex_chally: there is a guy who made a program + stuff for an "optimal bellows fold" system
But the contacting balls are likely to be fundamentally springy. (it is worth bearing in mind that all steels have exactly the same stiffness)
pretty freaking cool actually
Conventional ways have clearance plus huge stiffness, linear ball guides have zero clearance or positive preload and less stiffness. I would be curious to see what the state of the art in toolroom lathes is nowadays, but then that is probably realtime closed-loop metrology and wet noodles as guides would be fine.
ooh, the poly sheet is not particularly expensive either
There is a better link somewhere from a (I think) a japanese origami-ist.
alex_chally: thats the guy
andypugh, the two new (but cheapest you can get) haas machines at school both use linear bearings
how would one do realtime metroligy?
Valen: Laser interferometry?
andypugh, any link?
alex_chally: Reading back I am sounding uncomfortably like I know what I am talking about. Let me back up and say that I am speculating from reading, a materials science / physics background and an unhealthy interest in machine tools.
andypugh, oh, about the bellows, not relatime metrology
This thing here is using linear ways, and surprisingly small ones.
[00:43:15] <andypugh> http://www.deansmithandgrace.co.uk/icms_assets/files/Travelling_Gantry_Machine.pdf
I am drawing a blank on the origami. It was actually posted here a few months back
mkay, I will keep looking around
andypugh: linear ways on lathes i see on smaller size lathes and the ways are horizontal/parallel to table on Z and the slant is only on X where most of that is "along the movement of the ways", but putting linear ways on a slant bed lathe just hits me as "wrong"
andypugh, that is a very interesting pdf
the X and y axis are driven by a rack and pinion 0.o
with all that weight and the cutting forces pulling/twisting the ways (in my way of thinking at least)
the way part of the linear way isn't really doing much
the underlying material takes all the load
Again, with the right controls all you need to do is move the ways and measure where they are. It comes back to my earlier comments about experiments. If you can close the loop in the right place the actuator becomes irrelevant.
andypugh, oh yeah, i just think it is kind of interesting. I would not even know where to start designing movement systems for things that large
I mean shit, what do you make linear scales out of so they maintain their length?
or what do you bounce the laser off of?
Neither would I, but would take the job without a second thought :-) (Apart from anything else working for DSG would take me "home" to Yorkshire)
andypugh: I do wonder how you would go about actually measuring the error though
Valen: linear ways on a mill table, i wouldn't even blink (and i know they work well on our mills, but there is no attempt to pull the table off the ways (which is what i liken the slant bed lathe with linear ways mod to)
I used a system in a previous job that used a laser to measure to 1% of it's own wavelength at MHz frequencies (not at the same time, I dont't think, I belive it was nm at 100Hz and um at MHz
hmmm, even with a laser system you would have to average multiple sample points to correct for localized heat variances
how is the slant bed different to a regular bed, just rotated so the crud falls off?
a pile of hot chips on one part of the bed might move things a few thou
[00:54:33] <morfic> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/mahockett/haas11.jpg
again, ways that are taking most their force straight down
you know, when a pile of hot chips weighs 1ton
alex_chally: thats what you want to measure
Valen, right, but on a normalish size machine you could assume that the machine will heat up with at least a small degree of uniformity
point i'm making is from the POV of the way whats the differnce between straight "down" and at an angle to gravity
Valen: gravity alone makes a difference when you compare two ways level to floor vs on a slant bed, i *think* is the point
The thing is, much as we like to pretend, the requirements for precision haven't moved that far.
morfic, is that your TL?
alex_chally: no, came across it googling for linear way lathe
Fits have become tighter, but point to point over a few feet very rarely matters very much.
there are a plenty, so far all Z ways are level to floor
anyone else used a tailstock on one of those>?
alex_chally: you the one who said what a joke the TS is?
not the entire machine
just the tailstock
kind of interesting
so we have been having problem with the turret on that lathe
To me, the lathe bed looks immensely stiff, and the ways look woefully undersized. I am sure HAAS know what they are doing, but they might sell more with bigger ways.
apparently the 60psi of air that the manual says you must have is only a minimum requirement and depending on.... stuff, you might have to turn the pressure up
but get this
there is no warning on the controler
is that an air bearing system?
it was fucking grinding gears because the air was not popping the turret up high enough, an the control had no idea
which just seems kinda crazy to me
Should be a check by the installer, I guess.
andypugh, it was
they set it at 60
it was even written down in the little logbook
andypugh: seeing how my boss aims at making sure the machine will take that .500" DOC i stalled our larger lathe with, i'd just feel more comfortable properly researching the ways than bobbing my head "Yes, Sir!", that's all
morfic, .5 radius or diameter?
Depth of cut, radial
that is a pretty serious cut :D
<digression> I was given a spec for a testing machine for a pneumatic brake system. The test was that the valve should not self-shut when 100psi was applied to it. I looked at the existing testing machine, and built on the same scale (this was a huge mistake on my part, a real lapse in engineering judgement). In service it turned out that the measured pressure was always far too low (I had been a bit clever, and my pressure
pipe was at the unit under test, inside the feed pipe). So then (far too late) I did the maths. 100psi across a 1.25" dump valve is 20,000 cfm. Their existing tester had a restrictor downstream of the gauge. It wasn't doing the test it was meant to do, and neither could ours with any compressor the company could afford. We re-built it with 4" pipes and the biggest regulator you ever saw, but all that did was kill their pneum
ring main. The test spec was written in about 1890, and nobody had every really considered it properly.
not what i was looking for http://www.willismachinery.com/2280_cnc_lathe_frame.asp
but looks interesting anyways
morfic, that is kinda nifty
just a spindle, some servos and a cheap pc away from being useful
Interesting."we can't decide which is best, let's use both"
alex_chally: Cobalt, trademarked name Stellite, cut with ceramics, seeing how he beefs everything up for this, the linear ways still don't seem to fit the bill, no linear rail i could google up was used on a lathe on a slant bed
morfic: What tolerances do you work to?
i'd say .0005" that part i think was still +-.001" on two surfaces
morfic people seem to like air bearings for precision stuff
Half a thou and very heavy cuts, that sounds like a job for conventional ways to me. For super-precsion I think ball-ways would win, but you want to really push.
Valen: i don't think we have an actual need for that, +-.001 is not so hard for what we got
andypugh: he wants both, so i think rigidity is priority
As I said earlier, even I can get .001 on scrap machines. For the cuts you are talking of you want very, very, strong.
andypugh: i admit a certain bias on my part, i see a "yes sir" coming w/o any knowledge or research on our part
.5 " doc you are going to need a pretty beefy spindle
that's all really, i don't want to stumble blindly into anything we do on that machine, they can do that on their projects, not when i am part of the project
The machine exists.
spindle was at 25% load when i stalled Z on the larger lathe
Use it as it is, don't destroy it fitting linear guides then find that was a mistake.
Z was starting at 100%ish and climbed up and shut down past 150%
andypugh: reason is the cost of grinding ways, about $25k
Err, don't bother?
"we can just put on linear ways for less"
i think the current project is building a grinder in house?
How bowed are the ways?
.005 dip in center of bottom way matching .005 dips on ends of top way
anyone know of a source for small linear actuators like these http://www.micromo.com/uploadpk/03A_S3_DFF.pdf
only with a travel up to 35mm vs ~10mm?
Your boss needs a slap. This is a production machine that actually already does the job. It is not his Hot-Rod to spend money on in search of imaginary and illusionary improvements.
Tell you what, pay me a consultancy fee and I will slap him for you,
andypugh: started out with rust on ways from being exposed to weather for 10 yrs
i'm tempted to call the pitting from the rust "oil pockets" :P
morfic if you know the errors in the ways just tell EMC about it problem solved ;->
Hardened ways I assume? Otherwise a little man in a brown coat and a scraper for a week is the solution.
I've heard of those somewhere
what do you want to do with them?
[01:29:08] <L84Supper> http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=135
andypugh: i plea the fifth, i would have to check, or assume
Valen has a point. Why solve in hardware what can be solved in software?
andypugh: i think i might ask them to map out the ways of one of our working lathes, maybe seeing they are worse will cure it
are you making some sort of micromill?
going to move a few oz. nozzles over a couple of inches of travel with 0.010" repeatability
andypugh: i knew you can map the ball screw, how do you compensate for "bowed ways" ?
And, actually, knackeredlathekins is a really good idea
I just invented it
hmmm... so a super printer or painter then?
genehacker: yes, for tight spaces
painter or 3d printer?
knackered is something brits say a lot i take it?
L84Supper: Any good? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3831273
this one is cartesian and swaps out printheads
you might want to hop on over to #reprap
are you using the FDM process?
what are you spraying?
I'm familiar with reprap, UV cured resins
so I take it this isn't a home project
MattyMatt is now known as UnixBeard
nope, funded $100k machine
morfic: I don't think there is way-wear compensation but 1) It is normally a height change, so second-order to diameter and 2) It would be a very easy kinematics compared to some.
UnixBeard is now known as PapaUnixBeard
sounds like the objet process
it's always so easy to find large motors and actuators but if you only want to move small light parts it's so often custom
Help! Matt has become a Smurf!
is this a small 3d printer?
or a 3d printer that prints really really fast?
genehacker: no, actually 12' in x axis and a few inches in Y and Z
andypugh: actual question is if the face parallel to X is .005 moving, i move Y, so based on how the small face is that would move X if it was warped, that's my real X problem, no?
is there a reason in the verse to not buy this for my quill Z axis?
heh this one is around 14"/sec linear speed
you send old horses to the knackers yard
[01:36:49] <alex_chally> http://cgi.ebay.com/THK-KX-Ground-Ball-Screw-CNC-Ballscrew-New-Router-nsk-/190410265599?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c555613ff#ht_1055wt_1133
(where they get turned into glue)
L84Supper: Ah, 2" travel, I missed that bit. This might work http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5101114
yeah only 8mm on that one
that's a very strange machine
kins, kinematics.....oh damn i'm slow
3" of travel is the answer
oldlathekinematics, haha, boo, i suck
andypugh: more of a liner type since I have to gang 5 close together
[01:38:34] <L84Supper> http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=135
sp linear type ;)
L84Supper: Push-wires and remote actuators?
like a piano
Solid guided wires (wire in tube) can work very well.
genehacker: we build custom 3d printers as well
that must be a very specialized application
andypugh: i will concentrate on drive motor this week if i have any chance, i doubt anybody does any research on linear way anyway, so i shouldn't need to worry until after we settled the spindle/drive issue ;)
Do it incrementally
so you work for objet, as I'm not aware of any other company that can use the inkjet UV cure process
genehacker: yeah, they all are, sometimes robot arms are used, this application has parts 10 feet long
so here is another good screw, proper length but a very fine thread
so are people using 3d printers for mass production now?
Your boss is a liablity. His job is to curb your outlandish enthusiasm and insist in backup data, not go wild with expensive plans. (And if you want to tell him I said so, feel free)
genehacker: starting to, tubing, baseball bats, toy cars, dolls, cans, bottles etc
genehacker: I have had UV-cured parts printed at work and I don't recognise the "Objet" name
products not prototypes?
plus there are more ways than one to radiation cure a resin
But my favourite machine is the CAD to Sand to Iron/Aluminium machine.
andypugh: my outlandish enthusiasm? :)
oh sorry for the confusion 3d printer vs non-planar printers for printing the decorative surface layer on objects
would it be a bad thing to spin a ballscrew 2400 RPM?
he is quick taking off 10 inserts we use a lot, but when it comes to "let's build our own ways grinder" money is spent quick
these are for high res full color decorating
morfic: Normally, yes, Engineers have wild ideas, older wiser heads say "tried that, didn't work then, convince me it can work now"
I'm pretty sure objet just designs machines for protos made from uv cured resins
PapaUnixBeard is now known as MattyMatt
I never touched 2.4, it wasn't me, guv
When I said your boss was a liability, I meant it. Crikey, put me in a management role and we would be bankrupt in a month.
andypugh: that's a problem, noone knows and say "sure, we do it" (all the time), so i feel like i have to play devil's advocate and stop everyone asking question, making them find out stuff.....if it still looks like it'll work fine, if not, "phew, close one"
^Valen, re Salvarane's problem
andypugh: if nothing else, we gain the knowledge that it works and WHY it works
morfic: Yes, and that should be your boss' role. He should be the devils egg-nogg.
andypugh: it usually is what he does, and i better know why i wanted that $85 CAT40 holder for our mill....
Of course, it might depend on how close to the edge your company is. I have never really worked anywhere that wasn't teetering on the brink of going under.
why are all the actuators on ebay either 6" too short or >12" too long for my projects?
it's your projects that are the wrong size, obviously
L84Supper: Beacause your project is too big or too small
andypugh: only good he is good at, balancing money coming in and going out, he can do the project now based on some rather nice orders, of fast paying customers
with that I bid you all a restful and comfortable goodnight
In that case, then you might want to follow some wilder tracks, but there is no going back from machining off the ways and fitting tracks.
anyone tried the NanoMuscle stuff yet? http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8782
I am having problems finding short ballscrews with a lead angle larger then 2mm
[01:53:36] <L84Supper> http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Robotics/NM70.pdf
alex_chally: Don't you order the length you need?
is only 1.1g yet moves a 70g load
morfic: One idea might be to convert the ways to that "turcite" that that earlier ad mentioned.
[01:55:50] <andypugh> http://www.mtsandtg.com/specialty/turcite
L84Supper: I would definitely be ordering a sample of the NM70 were I you.
andypugh, i am trying to find a used ground one on ebay
although I because the length of the screw is so short, I could probably get by just fine with a rolled screw
You can always shorten it with an angle grinder
but it makes me sad to pay for thread I have to cut off
Yes. In fact is is my opinion that ground ones are a waste of money unless NASA are paying you for the parts.
Buy one that will do X and Y then cut to suit?
hmmm, I have to cut like 8 or 9" of screw off of my X screw
I wonder if I could part it off and get another ball nut
In theory, yes
You need to get the right ball nut.
and that will probably be more then a new nut/screw combo used on ebay
I got caught that way myself, ended up with a nut that really, really, did not fit the screw
[02:02:12] <alex_chally> http://cgi.ebay.com/NSK-Ballscrew-and-nut-assembly-CNC-Robot-Leadscrew-THK-/320485396831?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4a9e6b115f#ht_987wt_1133
not a lot of info about it
Ball screws are really quite cheap, like £4 for 100mm
i must get food
be back later
Give me 3 mins..
[02:04:54] <andypugh> http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/r1205-ballscrew-p-329.html?cPath=39
Time to log. Have fun chaps
genehacker__ is now known as genehacker
alex_chally: take a look at linearmotionbearings2008 on ebay
he sells ballscrews+nuts for cheap
new ones made to measure
if they are made to measure, are they as good as factory hardened ones?
like I really care :) my current leadscrews are BZP
bright zinc plated
hot dipped mild steel
or maybe it's electroplating, and the dull ones are the hot dipped, I'm not sure
Ah, thanks, I hadn't heard that one. Leadscrews like all-thread? (spelling?)
the dull ones, used for concrete, are described as galvanised, but I think that has become a generic term for any method of zincing
Yes, I would think the same way. And you have a tabletop mill with Nema 23 steppers? If so, you're in the majority of users.
I do plan to upgrade one more axis when this job is done
Adding a 4th?
the althread is OK now it has a plastic nut, but the small pitch is just too slow
ah that too :)
the motor is already connected, I just need a chuck
Oh, you mean switching screws? Going to ballscrews one at a time?
yep. I got one sealed ballscrew unit on ebay while building it
(sorry if I seem confused, I had to reboot and lost my back-text)
* KimK hates when that happens
[04:00:51] <MattyMatt> http://imagebin.ca/view/VYrny5J.html
that pic shows everything. the nice ballscew I have, the M8 under the table which I want to replace, and the 4th axis motor sitting on the PSU waiting for a chuck
you can also see the single wingnut holding the spindle on, that's plan B for 4th axis
I also like your on-off (autostart?) switch in the extreme lower left corner.
oh yes, finest red wire jammed in the socket :) the psu has a switch on the back
2.5mm2 copper mains wire, it's a good fit
so is a paperclip
I wasn't entirely sure how live it is
the WP page suggested it's a high impedence input, shorted to gnd, but I wasn't taking chances
the copper stays in nicely too
so does a paperclip
So is Y the axis you upgraded already?
nope not yet, when this job is done
I just made a plastic nut for it which is nice interim upgrade by itself. backlash has vanished
but back to linearmotionbearings2008. I was eyeing up their ballscrews for the upgrade when it does happen.
and while the machine is still structurally plywood, I shouldn't care too much if the ballscrews are properly hardened :)
I like to think of the plywood as a template for where the steel will be one day
these are rolled screws
they say C7 grade
I'll keep a plywood shell forever, on the outside at least, I think it helps with the noise & vibration
cutting them on the lathe "sucks donkey balls"
they are some kind of hard steel at least
that'll do me. it's basically only the pitch I care about
my X is 8x the pitch, and moves 8x as fast. my speed is purely motor RPM limited
so a higher voltage supply is high on the agenda too
my motors are 8 wire, wired parallel, rated 1A, does that mean I can give them 2A?
I am already, and they're still barely warm
bleh I went to bed 3 hours ago, but couldn't sleep. now I've got to face the choice of sequencing 61 cuts in gedit, or making a "playlist editor" in the blender script...with no sleep
[04:36:58] <MattyMatt> http://imagebin.ca/view/UhfSkRvm.html
that is something the script badly needs tho
all I can do now, is select a bunch of cuts and press Export. they come out random except the last one selected is always first
RE the 2A question
yeah it seems likely. I reasoned it out for someone else's then suddenly realised mine's like that :)
and my motors are not as warm as you'd expect for being pushed hard all day
and modern hybrid 4 wire motors the same size are 2A, and a copper coil is a copper coil
all you need to watch for is saturation and heat really
once you saturate the core more amps just gives you more heat
ah so when I up the voltage, I'll get saturation more easily, so I'll watch out then
its done by ampturns
basically amps = torque
when you saturate the core more amps = no gain
more volts means your more likley to be able to saturate it
*but* the thing is, the faster you go the higher the back emf
so thats why they have current limited drivers ;->
so you can get full speed at full torque
you can get a similar net effect with a low value resistor though ;->
I still need to experiment with the decay settings
I set to the fastest, but I think that's costing me torque
simple way to do things is probably to put a known current through the motor and see what torque you need to break step
more current measure torque
untill you see the current Vs torque drop off
(it'll be moderatley dramatic)
one thing I'll try is stepping the bare motor as fast as possible. load doesn't seem to make much diffference
you may be limited by inductance
except when there's serious friction like while the nuts are bedding in
if 2A is maxing out your coil then theres going to be a lot of turns
3.5ohm per winding, which seems pretty average
the name SloSyn implies they'd be bigger coils than typical, to get positioning torque at the expense of speed, but they seem fairly normal
200rpm approx, but I think that's because of the 12V supply
a slowish machine is good for learning on maybe :) no spectacular crashes yet
you can series ATX supplies yaknow
also load the 5V rail
I think cheap ones are just one rail inside
common earth at the very least
they have 5 and 12V inside them
thing is they wont put out 12V under load if you dont also put a load on the 5V rail
I don't fancy that, I'll try it with a dead one first
i dont mean connect the 5 and 12v
i mean for more volts use 2 atx supplies
that sound even risky tbh
but to use an atx supply put a 5-10W load on the 5v rail
eh i've done it it works
and its cheap
rip em out of computers on the side of the road
this one is happy with no load on 5V. I had a meter on 12V and it's steady
so the black wires aren't connected to the case of the psu?
dunno, I'd say they probably are
thats why I was saying if you want to series them you need to cut the earth wire
in the 240v side
ah didn't catch that
and I don't fancy that
(and make sure they dont touch)
changing the zener seems easier and safer
but I'm still not really confident with switching psus
yeah the voltage is regulated by a zener in the feedback loop
pretty much like a chopper, but constant voltage instead of constant current
simple diode change, possibly
oh well time to go play with our mill
it may be more complicated than that, I'll learn more before I try it
blue led in series will add 3V to the zener voltage :)
leds are effective low voltage zeners
I'll just take my free 12V 10A power supply thanks
I'll live with my one. I've used up most of my good ones. one good one went in my last roadkill recovery (my emc machine) and my other spares are 200-250W
and I can get a nice 7A 24V one for e18 from germany
and I have a 35VA 12-0-12 lump which will let me test one motor at 24
bleh 6.30am. too late to sleep, too early to mill, too tired to add fancy bit to script. looks like I'm hand assembling today's gcode
I'd go jogging, but I don't have any lycra
too late, you got the picture,hahaha
[05:23:06] <Jymmm> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1820171153.html
they make new ones?!
shiny, but I'd rather have a used one and $10k change
7 axis? do they all have that many?
8 (forgot the quill)
ok, got the PSU down to like 76V under load
so probably won't fry my drivers now
PCW_ is now known as PCW
Jymmm, that mill is like 100 miles from me
i should ditch my project in the middle and go broke buying that
Well, there ya go
Hello <MattyMatt> I riceved this error http://pastebin.com/qEupK7iE
could you suggest me a guide
for resolv this error
in this moment I have to come out from my house , more late I writing you , sorry thanks
I know nothing about emc2.4
someone else beginning with M probably :)
salvarane: insmod: error inserting '/usr/realtime/modules/rtai_hal.ko': -1 File exists
sounds like there's a problem with your RTAI install..
maybe it just didn't unload cleanly
Its probably. However thanks.
Thanks, I have to go out. Head you later
Jymmm: saw it, I think it's too expensive
alex_joni: Yeah, forget the price. I have one, but honestly, I really can't think of any use for it.
I would put some weather stats up on it
Yeah, then what?
well.. maybe for 5$ or so
I spent less than 50$ on my webradio :)
Jymmm: this one http://juve.ro/blog/projects/radio
Ok, I forgot you put in a LCD in it
pretty similar size LCD
alex_joni: I have a PicoITX too, and can't figure out what to do with it either. Maybe I should put all the useless things together and see what I get =)
alex_joni: same size 4x20 LCD
I once connected a bigger graphical LCD to a parport/linux
used it as a console
Jymmm: here are some examples: https://ssl.bulix.org/projects/lcd4linux/wiki/CoolStuff
I like the indigo blue, I have a 2x16 one here
[07:21:58] <alex_joni> http://blog.automated.it/2007/10/01/pertelian-lcd-driver/
Hmmm, I have some small satellite speakers, maybe I can use the PIco + LCD for a media box too
need an tiny amp though
on another note we just got a 5% VAT increase
Though, I need to figure out a nice UI if I do. How did you do yours?
I wrote mine..
yeah, what did you do though?
didn't get that..
can you select different stations? Volume up/dn/mute?
didn't implement random
Well, HOW though, all I see is a single knob
it's a rotary/push button
short push = ok
long push = cancel
rotate = up/down
Never seen a two-step knob like that
so you have: main menu (play/select/stand-by-weather)
it's not two-step.. it gets read by a micro
if the push is short micro sends ok, if it's longer it sends cancel
so, main menu (play/select/stand-by/weather)
after a while of inactivity, it goes automatically to stand-by
stand-by means: date/time, some current weather info
weather: forecast for today + 3 days
in play you get: station/song title, volume, current temp., date/time
so you have to turn the knob to keep playing musci?
up/down is volume
you go to select, chose your radio station, and push ok
then it starts playing, and stays in 'play'
if you rotate the knob you get volume up/down
Right, but you said there's an inactivity timer
only for the main menu if idle
there's a ini file for the program
where you can specify some stuff
like autoplay on startup, radio stations, etc
[07:32:41] <alex_joni> http://dsplabs.upt.ro/~juve/openwrt/soft/builder/package/radio/data/radio.conf
alex_joni: So, what did you use to get the audio (hardware wise)?
used a cheap usb/sound thingie
like one of these http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22475
similar to this one: http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/10/inside-the-syba-sd-cm-uaud-usb-stereo-audio-adapter/
exactly that one
I still have 3 or so left :D
From DX ?
Yeah, I'm glad I found that place, and it looks like everyone else is too =)
My latest order shipped today, just waiting for it to arrive =)
I did order some stuff at one point,which never arrived
they WILL refund your money.
nah, shipped to CT, US
did you get a refund?
or replacement shipment at least.
They're slow, but they have good Customer Service that way.
didn't really track it.. it was 6-7 months ago
when we order from DX and then buy the iGadgets like crazy here in the west should we then laugh or cry when we hear about the foxcon workers jumping off the balcony...
alex_joni: very bottom of page http://www.dealextreme.com/TermsAndPolicy.html#return_policy
"...package takes longer (more than 30 days) to reach you..."
Alright folks, g'night!
this is a nice device: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.36387
Fox_M|afk is now known as Fox_Muldr
Fox_Muldr is now known as Fox_M|afk
[13:06:48] <skunkworks_> http://cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=794489&postcount=47
hmm - mach 'crashed' it. and now emc doesn't work also.
micges_work: morning. how are things in PL?
we'll vote for president soon
oh - you lost yours - didn't you?
and we're recovering from 3weeks flood
no major issues here.. But across the USA weather has caused lots of issues. (we had tornados in the next state over)
skunkworks_: lol, mach 'crashed' it. :P
we had a tornado last week, here in Ontario. Very unheard of for us.
do you know if there is a possibility to uncheck a pyvcp checkbutton from the hal file ?
I mean by changing the value of the associated halpin, like you can do when programming using QT or other GUI-toolkit
or another way, if any
bricofoy, no, I don't think so. the HAL pin for a checkbox is an output, and you can't set output pins from halcmd
I see that, I tried
wanted to know if ther is another way, or at least to disable the entire widget
I tried adding the <disablepin>true attribute, like we can do for regular buttons, but this is not reconized
I think there's an option to create an enable-pin, but I don't know which widgets support it
and even if you disable the widget, the HAL pin is still there, with its output in whatever state
yeah bu I can do some logic on the output insude the hal file
you could always run its output through an and2 block, and use the other line to control whether the button state "passes" through the and
PCW_ is now known as PCW
I think I wiil do the thing with a regular button, witch triggers a latch, and a led to show the state
but will be more complicated
I whished there where a simpler way
what are you actually trying to do?
I use EMC to control a gluing machine, I have an input for the "running out of glue" switch, that trigger pause on the program. Then the user as to refill glue tank, but in order to du that, he must depressurise the tank, by doing something on the pyvcp panel, like checking a checkbutton. Then after the refill is done, uncheck the thing, the hit "resume" on the control panel
I need something to repressurise the glue tank if the user, for some reson forgott ti do it manually before resuming the program
you could write "don't forget to repressurize the glue" on a sticky note and stick it on the monitor
ah. so one possible solution is to prevent "resume" from working until the "refilling" button has been unchecked and the pressure has stabilized
yeas, thins is exactly the thing I was think out when you wrote it :)
the sticky note?
coffee time. bbiab
user will learn fast enough
I fact this is really a better way to do, as I also prevent resume while the "low glue" is still active
waprat is now known as packrat
LawrenceG, thanks for that diagram the other day
got everything wired up proper, 10 wraps on the primary giving me 78V w/o a load, 76v or so wiht
I might stilll kill a drive with back EMF, but that is what I get :D
* frallzor killed a 6mm tool just now
use a 10mm
just crack it, or did it blow up good?
bit of both
dont know why, either some odd code or it just was loose
someone at school popped a HSS parting tool the other day
and spun downards
it went kinda *ping* and then *pow*
a lot like a gun shot
best for blow up is a 75mm Diameter 7Touth miller
some is still in the spindle, some on the piece and some went flying
i am trying to think of the most expensive tool I have killed
last term for an unknown reason I broke a really nice 1/2" carbide chamfer mill
we had been using it all term, and I ran a program I had done like 5x already that day
it just shattered, no idea why
sometimes realy nasty things happen
I broke a 1 x 3" carbide roughing endmill one time
had my offsets wrong. tool took off right through the middle of a part rather than skim the outside
best is optimise the toolpath by hand to -100
at the 2nd last sentence
mikegg, I got my transformer voltage down, it was super easy
mikegg, just did like 10 more wraps around the primary, didn't have to unwrap the torroid or anything
I just got an RMA for mine
how did you know which way to wrap?
mikegg, if you wrap the wrong way voltage goes up not down :)
10 wraps eh?
how much over voltage was it to begin with?
wraps=turns of a screw driver ?
wraps = wire windings around a transformer
mikegg, 10v ish
ok, me too.
the transformer was meant for 115:56
but my wall power is 125
Thanks here its 245V
anyone here can help newbie to servos?
I like servos
I have a dc motor with HEDS9100 encoder, and wonder if i can direct drive it from emc?
i use steppers only
what kind of drive are you using?
I have used servos before but only ones with step/dir inputs
is it brushed or brushless
I have no drives, I am wondering if emc supports taking the A B encoder signals and switching on a forward/reverse signal depending on the encoder????
moop: a very minimal setup would use the parallel port and one L298 or similar chip for a simple H-bridge amp
there was something on the wiki...
so all I would need is a DC supply and a forward/reverse switch??
the forward/reverse switch is a H-bridge which you drive with a PWM signal (or two)
IThe device is an amatrol pegasus robot arm
if it is a low-power motor and you are just learning about servos then that could be a good project for you
the motors could be driven by a couple of uln2003 chips
I will read the web link and maybe return later
many thanks for the advice
uln2003 looks like max 500mA
L298 is up to 4A (you will have to cool it then)
I think the motors max at 1.1A so running a couple of darlintons in parallel should work
and a L298 is about 10 times the price of a uln2003
this woudt be a sa1022
L298 is 3euros, I would not worry about that :)
for l298 you need plenty of high speed diods not cheep at all
uln2003 is less than .3 euros
moop, robot arm price on market?
moop no speed with that device
I got the pegasus on ebay for 20 euros
2 reasons for tool failure
it was shitty due to testing out speeds for alu and it was loose
new tool = success!
rule1: attach the stock well, rule2: attach the tool well
well it was well attached
but it was superdull
so it wiggled loose
new tool made 2 nice pieces
a robot for 20 euros!? sweet
moop: like this one? http://www.theoldrobots.com/images27/Pegasus7.JPG
oh, I thought it might be this one http://cgi.ebay.com/POPY-Japanese-Tekkaman-Pegasus-Robot-jumbo-machinder-BX-/140341493606?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ad013f66
that one is cool too
this is some top notch Alu
yes awallin, thats the exact robot arm I have
I have gone robot arm crazy on ebay this week
what are you going to do with all the arms then...
I also bought a TQ MA 3000, and a UMI RTX robot arm
I going to use them for transfering components between lathe and mill
thats if I ever eventually get all my projects going
I know what that is like
I guess its going to take at least another year
and i keep wasting time looking at ebay trying to find new bargains
and new projects
too many ideas, not enough time to actualise them
and I have to go for dinner now
alex_chally, glad it worked out for you
Fox_M|afk is now known as Fox_Muldr
Can someone help me with hooking up a pin for a probe please?
where are you stuck specifically?
I thought I might be able to just ground a pin by touching a pad with the tool tip but that doesn't seem to be working
I have pin 13 in set as motion.probe or whatever...
oh you're not getting a meaningful input from your hardware?
right it seems eratic or else I'm going about it all wrong.
what seems erratic?
I get probe alreadt tripped
but not always.
what is the basic wiring technique foe a probe?
use halmeter to monitor the input. make sure it is false when the probe is not touching and true when it is
First I need to know how to hook up the probe though.
I couldn't find any documentation in the manuals.
there are many ways to hook up a probe. mostly they just act like switches.
sounds like maybe you don't know how to wire up an input, regardless of whether it is probelike in particular?
I put a wired pad on pin 13 with a pull-up R and touched it to the tool tip.
Is that one way?
touched what to the tool tip?
basically grounded pin 13 with the tool tip.
ok you have a pullup from pin 13 to (something) and you have a pad hooked to pin 13 that touches the tool
is that right?
right that's one thing I tried.
how is the tool grounded?
I was just guessing
Frame of the machine.
I understand the tool is hooked to the machine. how is the frame of the machine grounded?
you've got to make a reliable circuit for it to work
actually, I wouldn't trust oiled spindle bearings to conduct low current reliably
Right, I tried it once and it seemed to work but probably it isn't a good connection to the digital ground. I'll make sure of that first.
But in general what's a good way to do it?
you're probing tool length?
no, I think it's a terrible way
the main problem with it is you have no overtravel
I'm trying to use you and jepler's pcb milling program and wanted to use the tool length probe code in there.
I suggest poking a switch of some kind with the tool
I was a bit worried about that too.
Esp with tiny end mills.
* KimK wonders why no one has used one of those CNC height gauges (battery and bulb type) with built-in overtravel and opto-coupled it to the probe switch input?
you will break your tiny end mills if you poke a solid object with them
KimK: don't they start at like $75? that'd be why if I had to guess
Yeah, that's a good reason. Plus probably still too stiff for "tiny end mills".
I sure eyed tormach's tool height sensor quite a bit at workshop
the main reason I didn't ask about it was the flat sensing area was about 1/2 or 5/8 diameter - way too small
I am working on optical detectors for home and limits right now. That's why I want to mill the pcb. It's the comparator circuits for the slot detectors.
optical could work for tool lengths too...
Oh, I didn't see that. Too busy I guess. What was it like?
flat on the bottom to sit (or clamp?) on the table, a plunger in the center that looked very flat and probably very hard. led on the side and armored (I think) wire coming from it.
You push the plunger with the tool tip till it trips?
and then it has some more travel available so it gives while you decelerate and stop/reverse
Yes, that was my Q, push until a switch action occurs (like a Renishaw triad switch)? or push until you get electrical conductivity?
My question about how to do this was really meant to be "what wiring scheme do you recommend?"
In general, for the probe pin?
tormach has a picture of it in their (stupid pdf) catalog
davidf: pullup and switch to ground, I guess
OK. pull-up R value?
Oh, I have a break-out board though. I'll have to check the specs on that anyway.
Yes, I vote pullup too (and a fairly stiff pullup too, if you can manage it.) You can always add a driver transistor if it's pretty stiff. Better noise immunity that way.
diameter of plunger 0.720" (?)
I think I can handle 1 K on the BOB easily.
if I had a tool probe it would be an extremely simple exercise to write gcode that loads all tools in the changer and measures them
cradek I should send you a tool and say probe that!
I do have a cutter in mind though :)
why, do you have an odd one?
Having all three connections is handy. That's why I brought out (on John's BP2) a 3-wire SO cord (didn't have any shielded 3-conductor handy). That way: +5 power (or whatever you choose), probe signal back, and common.
.2 mod gear cutters :)
hi guys is there anyone here who can link me to a site or explain to me how to set up stepgen? im having trouble understanding how to set it up (ive read all the docs but it doesnt really tell me which files im supose to edited)
djwez: ask a more specific question
djwez, Are you wanting to configure a cnc machine?
you see im trying to set up emc2 to run the motors directly (im useing 3 uln 2803 chips) they are bipolar motors and i was thinking of using either the 8 or 10 step config. im just not really sure where i find the core_stepper file (seen that quite a few people edit that) and how to code it for 4 phases (ive only seen the code for 2 phase). the other thing im battling with is how to tell stepconfig which pins are for which phase
davidf, yes thats basically what im trying to do
that's over my head.
djwez: start with a sample stepper config
if you start emc2 you get a config picker, select stepper_mm or stepper_inch
and let the config picker make a copy of the config
then you'll have the files in ~/emc2/configs/stepper
and you can look at the ini (which won't need much changing) and the hal file
hmm okay thank alex.... thats leading me somewhere.... let me just find an example of the 2 phase bit so that i can tell you whats confusing me
[21:22:23] <alex_joni> http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/2.4/html//hal_rtcomps.html#sub:Stepgen-Step-Types
[21:24:31] <frallzor> http://forumbilder.se/show.aspx?iid=c72010112055P2296
oooh gees just got kicked out
frallzor: motor mounts?
belt reduction for my beast
so this is what is confusing me this is for a 2 phase motor net Xstep <= stepgen.0.phase-A (next line) net Xdir <= stepgen.0.phase-b . but how would i add the other 2 phases? wpuld it just follow the same pattern
i read through the document a while ago and i think im going to settle for set type 10
OK this is wierd...
I have pin 13 as probe input. Pull up on it to 5 v via 1 K R.
I ground it and can see it trigger in Hal Scope just fine.
Grizzly has a CNC mill on the show room floor!
When I do an MDI g38.2 z0 f15, I get probe already triggered error.
sorry guys for somereason internet in south africa is very bad
If I do g 38.4 z0 f15 I get probe already clear error! What gives?
Also, setting pin 13 tio inverted or non inverted in the Hal file makes no difference.
to not tio
KimK, any ideas?
what was the location of the files i need to edit?
are you meaning to do G38.2?
dj_wez, scroll up the page.
mikegg, ideally yes
it doesnt show anything:( got disconected
dj_wez: run emc2 from the applications window and say yes to put a shortcut to the config files on the desktop
oh. just a sec dj_wez
you can always delete them later
davidf, how are you picking up the probe signal? you may need a pulldown
davidf: copied from earlier: use halmeter to monitor the input. make sure it is false when the probe is not touching and true when it is
cradek, OK will do.
mikegg, I've tried both ways.
pull down works (sort of.) bbl
thanks davidf and mikegg (i used the shortcut one.) ill see how far i get then get back to you guys if i need help thanks
ok so when i edit the part with "net Xstep <= stepgen.0.step" i change it to "net Xstep <= stepgen.0.0phase-A"? and the then next one instead of "Xstep" i use Xdir"?
dj_wez: Are you sure that's right? I don't claim to be a stepgen expert, but that doesn't seem right to me.
having some serious connection problems
ok so when i edit the part with "net Xstep <= stepgen.0.step" i change it to "net Xstep <= stepgen.0.0phase-A"? and the then next one instead of "Xstep" i use Xdir"?
djwez: I like your choice of "type 10" though, that seems right.
kimk, haha well atleast im on the right track ;)
oh ja and kimk i was just thinking maybe they are all step? not really sure
Wait, these are for 4-phase steppers? How did you come by those?
What kind of motors are you running there?
the name of the net doesn't matter
you might want to read the introductory hal tutorial
[21:55:00] <cradek> http://linuxcnc.org/docs/2.4/html/hal_basic_hal.html
at least 6 times :)
4 phase steppers.... they were not purchased they were given to me. and @ cradek i will give it a read. so it doesnt really matter if i make them all step or all dir?
as long as the names are different
at mikegg i will probly read it more than that but you arnt ment to know this;)
@ SWpadnos, by names you mean which part of it?:?
phone - one sec
Xstep / Xdir
doesn't matter what they are, as long as they are different
call them anything you want
aaah ok. then i guess when i edit the pin out i just have to copy those names over and use the rigth pins for the right phase?
you can't call all the X phases "XStep"
djwez: I think you'd want to forget about step and direction and do something more like: net ph4outa <= stepgen.0.phase-a; net ph4outb <= stepgen.0.phase-b; net ph4outc <= stepgen.0.phase-c, net ph4outd <= stepgen.0.phase-d.
you can call them anything unique: "phase1-X", "phase2-X". "Fred", "Wilma"
haha thanks thats what im doing now... at first i thoughtthose might be commands or names linked to the pinout but i see you can edit the pinout as well
John plans to use some 3-phase steppers on his second BP2, but the 3-phases are handled "internally"(?) by the driver so the user just sees step/dir, the 3-phases are unseen by the user. (Except for the "UVW" motor terminals on the drive, lol)
davidf: still thinking about your situation, I don't have any advice beyond cradek's, use halmeter, halshow, etc. I'll let you know if I think of anything else.
* KimK had better read up on G38.4 and G38.2 first
blegh now to figure out all my pins quick:(
ugh, enclosures are hard
djwez: that's going to be a lot of I/O, what interface system are you using?
by interface systems you mean.....? (sorry new to the whole cnc scene
how are you getting the wiring/signals from the PC to the motors?
i have a simple board with 3 uln2803 chips on it... (not really my design)
Ah, and it attaches to the parallel port?
its a db25 connection (ja parallel
but atm its just the axis motors nothing else
oh and limits
cradek, KimK Thanks. Doh. This did the trick: net probe.in <= parport.0.pin-13-in-not --- Forgot to do that!
djwez: OK. Well, I was just thinking that's twice as many motor signals as usual, leaving you with fewer pins for other stuff. (Unless he's developing the 4-phases on the PCB from step/dir? What does the manual say?)
Now it is false when high, true when tool tip grounds the probe pad.
kimK no manual.. its a diy controller (if it can even be called that.. wait...theres a guide on how to build diy cncs with basically the same layout as my board ill look for it quick
davidf: Congratulations! Glad you got it. Enjoy. (BTW, I added a PyVCP probe "test" button to "force" things, just in case needed.)
djwez, You're wanting to generate the coil waveforms directly, not step and direction, is that it?
oh ja and like you said. there are no more pins for anything else:) lol if i decide to add a spindle and water coolant ill fetch a addon card and make a new board for the spindle and extra stuff
KimK, Thanks. Didn't understand that last...?
@davidf ja thats basically what i want. the pc to generate the phases. hence step type 10
I wrote a program in Visual Basic to do that under windows OS. It worked pretty well actually.
KimK, What was that about the PyVCP button?
problem is. i dont have a windows xp disc. and linux runs nicely on this old pc ive rebuilt for my garage (i would use my current setup as it should give excelent output, ive got phenom II 720)
djwez: Now if your board builder uses the usual step/dir on the board and generates the 4-phases on-board, that would be a different situation. That was why I was asking about the manual.
lol i understand... this is basically my board layout http://www.instructables.com/image/FG5FF7OFROA0M4W/Soldering.jpg
have you run the latency test on your phenom machine?
faster CPUs don't always make better realtime controllers
SWPadnos, Hi! Just wanted to let you know that AMT encoder you suggested works fabulously well. I'm cutting Purrrrrfect threads now! Thanks a lot!
actually no... i run windows 7 on it as i use it for gaming (yeah lots of hobbies hey?) ja i know it depends on alot of things but if you think about it faster cpu can procces slightly more... only downside is im running it as a quad core and i doubt it would get used to its full potentiual.... but anyways back to my recoding
speed and latency are independent variables :)
Back at it... Thanks everyone.
and "low latency" means something very different when you're trying to generate several thousand steps per second, vs. several hundred (or fewer) frames per second
hahaha i agree fps means nothing when you are looking at steps;)
I'll have to see what the latency test does on the new PC I'm building
what are the specs?
Phenom 2 1090T, 16GB RAM, GTX 480, 2TB hard drive, 890FX motherboard ...
6-core, of course
yeah, managed to spend $3k including monitors
(with printer and UPS though)
CAD workstation? or just for kicks?
for my mother
wow something id love to see!!!... lol read that as R3k (ZAR) and i was like WT..... haha ...
you've got to be kidding
to do scientific computing on
yoh.... not surprized hey
she's getting a heck of an upgrade, her current PC is a Pentium 133 I think, and the new hard drive has as much memory as her current computer
what sort of computing?
she cant use CUDA?
dunno yet - she'll figure out some problems to work on
and yes, she will use CUDA, hence the GTX480
oh didn't see that
only one? lol
think he is talking about sli
we'd need to rewire her house to put in multiples ;)
the motherboard can handle 3 or so though, so if she really needs the processing speed (NOT!), we can do it
and possiblely rewire the db board:P
64bit works well there
yeah. unless some other distro has easier CUDA/driver install
(i'm using it)
with 16GB it'll be necessary
and she could care less about flash
it works fine
i use 64bit 10.04 for my desktop
works for me too, but you never know :)
me too, on my new laptop anyway
and my wife and sister have 10.04 on their desktops
there is a native flash client now, so we are almost first class citicens
I thought they didn't make a 10.1/Linux 64-bit client
or it's still beta or something
its a beta or something
davidf: On the PyVCP button, here's the PyVCP additions I did for John's BP2: http://imagebin.ca/view/sfeWxnv.html
The gear/speed change buttons and LEDs were a nice 5-wide in two rows, and I had 4 more for clamp-unclamp. So I was looking for one more item of button/LED pair that I could put in to fill out the row. And viola, it was probe input and probe test.
KimK: sexy looking
SWPadnos: your water cooling it right?
any reason for amd over intel?
amd is slightly cheaper atm?
Valen, no, not water cooled, but I did strongly consider it
I specced out a box for a friend with 2x 9800's in it and a nice big quad core, he cant sleep in the same room as it
the overall AMD system should be faster for the price, though a 980X would be faster at ~$1000 more
which is a pain for him as he runs long renders overnight
she'll either enjoy the fan sound or turn it off at night
he's going to put water cooling on it ;->
Coolit makes some slick water cooling setups
which brings us back on topic as he wants us to CnC the water blocks out for him lol
I considered it more because she has cats, not because of noise
heh, that's why I originally got involved with CNC and EMC actually :)
Fox_Muldr is now known as Fox_M|afk
probably wouldn't make much of a different unless you use one of those giant passive radiators
my desktop is a dual core atom + ion atm lol
ok guys should i code my limmit/home pins for limmits or home switches (im guessing if i make them limmit switches i can make emc2 register them as home aswell?)
....i dunno. We've done some testing with the Coolit ECO II. It's active all the way around and whisper quiet
I expect her to use the multi-core CPU only to get used to parallel programming, on the way to massively parallel CUDA stuff
mikegg: the problem is fur in the fans
heh, yep :)
your mum is officially cool btw
it's hard to find a case that doesn't have any cooling ports on top these days
stick some pre-filters on, call it done
or extra holes on the sides
cats would love a nice warm top mounted cooling fan set
heh, shave the cats! problem solved
hmmm. I won't repeat that to her ;)
actually, a friend of mine has a shaggy cat. who is normally really skidish and self absorbed
when he gets her pruned she gets really friendly and outgoing
your going to need some potent case fans
djwez: How big are your steppers and machine? What are you going to cut? How accurately do you need/want to home? Is it a mill/lathe with fixturing/tooling that you have to return to? Or is it a router where you throw in a sheet of plywood, run it, and you're done, set up fresh every time (home not so important)?
it's a nice Lian-Li case - huge and Aluminum
[22:53:13] <SWPadnos> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112244
kimK its a mill. they arnt very big steppers hey its a diy cnc mill just to get into the whole cnc scene. im actually not sure what im going to cut or how acurite it will/must be.
ag damn something went wrong with my code.... emc crashes when i try run the profile...
djwez: OK. A tabletop mill with steppers and no encoders? If you don't have any switches at all yet, I'd add home switches and soft limits and call it good. But that's just me. And if you're on a parallel port, you're probably limited on I/O, so I'd use shared home sws to save inputs.
is there no way to configure your home and limmits as one switch? (i mean one switch per axis) my uncle has a machine set up that works that way........ it homes and it also has limmits
So when you push "home all" it will home one-at-a-time. You could compromise and use two inputs, home Z by itself and share home on X and Y. That way "home all" will raise Z first (as before) but then X & Y can home at the same time. That's a little bit faster.
was thinking about that.... but if i edit the code and put the switches under home will they also act as limmits?
so i have home x y and z not shared
[23:05:47] <Jymmm> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1821475856.html
Yes, you can share home and limit sws, but IMHO it's more trouble than it's worth. My first choice is always three seperate switches, but on small steppers, particularly with all-thread screws, I say dump the two limit switches. Just my opinion. On servo sytems with ballscrews though ($$$) you want all three switches if you can.
$3600 BP http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1821400533.html
i can understand that... those ballscrews arnt cheap... hahaha! ill think about it all tommorow (wait today) im going to get some sleep before the sun comes out (its 10 past 1 here)
EMC2 has very nice soft limits, easily configurable on each axis, so get a good home first and use soft limits, I say.
djwez: OK, goodnight, see you later
thanks for all kimK and everyone else enjoy your day
haha, about suppertime here
hmm, I can't find the exact meaning of "Very Accurate" anywhere
my .223 is "Very Accurate"... my Hardinge is "Very Accurate" lol
heh... is that a metric .223? ;)
the cross slide table looks much better than anything I saw in Harbor Freight today
it could be yes
HF == kit of slightly machined bare castings ;)
you got that right, in fact today was my first experience of going into a HF store
some even come with a free sand for your inspection ;)
ds2: LOL, I would nominate that for "classic comments" on the wiki, very funny. But we probably shouldn't slap HF around, they're OK for what they are. And we (the public) seem to keep buying things from them.
KimK: it is a matter of expectations... I think the guy who runs 7x10minilathe.com said something similar
I buy stuff from them with that expectation and I haven't been too disappointed
all machine tools are a kit of parts anyway. no point tuning it too fine before trucking it
a british firm selling chinese lathes charge about 100 quid for "ready to use" service. It's nice to have the choice
Someone here posted a link to a guy's project about completely re-doing a Chinese vise (what, $50-100?) to make it more like a Kurt/Chick vise (what, $500?). He did about $300-400 worth of work on it and ended up with a vise that was worth maybe $200-250? Very interesting as a project, though. I don't have the link, maybe somebody else does.
some of us find that part of it somewhat enjoyable
heh, either that or spend time with the wifey...I'll take the vise
probably the first time is most enjoyable, or the second when you know what you're doing but not sick of it yet :)
I try and split my time between my wife and my vise
^me talking about toolmaking, not wifeys
I've added a new potential wife to my list. katarina on Thingiverse designs gearboxes
kylie minogue looked best with a spanner in her hand and an oil smudge on her cheek, but that was a fictional character
dunno if I could live with her as an actress/singer/dancer/showgirl/underwear model
I'm trying to convince my sis to stop making silver jewellry and learn the art of grinding TC tools. She'd make a fine wife for a machinist then
bleh even russian women are too fluffy these days
except katarina on Thingiverse :) she doen't make them in steel tho, she prints them in plastic
OH but wait I get to use M8 now :P
I haven't seen Katarina on Thingiverse. But Wikipedia says Kylie Minogue is a real person (actress). Are you thinking of Kaylee Frye (Jewel Staite) on Firefly? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jewel_Staite
yep kylie is real, but her character on the soap she started on was a car mechanic called Charlene
Oh, OK, maybe that wasn't well known in the US.
she was barely known in US until her last couple of big tours before she got ill
but in the UK, at her height, kylie had become the 6th most common girls name for christenings
there are 100,000 kylies in England now, thanks to her
I'm not sure if she's even as famous in Australia as she is here
the soap she was in was a joke there, but really popular here
because everyone in it was so cheerful. they weren't murdering each other all the time like in british soaps
"Colonel Mustard in the library with the candlestick!", lol