Woohoo! At last! I have my Arduino/IRAMS Resolver-feedback AC Servo thing working properly!
And at 300V DC bus voltage it flies! I can't imagine how fast it will move my axes, probably far faster than is even slightly sensible.
3000rpm * 5mm pitch = 15m/min....
Travel is 250mm....
Better get those limit switches fitted.
when i opened my case to install new mobo, cpu, ram, it was like opening a time capsule, pc been in storage for a while, nostalgia
hope the "error loading operating system" does not mean i forgot about a failed drive somewhere :>
is it me or is axis incorrectly plotting something; when i program a G92 to set an offset, and reload the drawing translates accordingly, - so far so good..
but when i program G92.2 to deactivate the offset (but retain it in the storage variables) the drawing stays according to the last offset - while the plot of the actual moves is translated back relative to the machine origin
madsci44: hit reload
still shows it according to the offset
(if you use touch off instead of g92 you won't have this problem)
hm, I misread the firs time what you typed
you are saying that even if you do reload after g92.2 it plots according to the saved vars
I think that is a fairly fundamental limitation of how axis works (it copies the var file)
but if i run the program - it runs in the proper location (ignoring saved variables) but still shows the drawing plot in the gl window at the offset position - the movement plots are in the correct location
ah i see
g92.2 is kind of an oddball - nothing else writes vars but then ignores them
i thought it would be handy for manually indexing to a corner - and it functions correctly so its not a big deal - was just confusing till I realised what was going on
thanks for the report but I'm not sure what to do about it
it might not hurt if you'd file a bug report on the sourceforge bug tracker so it's not forgotten
ok sure - do i need to know much to use that?
no it's just a web thingy.
(never filed one before) ok cool should be easy nuff
im setting up a machine for a friend and he wanted that ability - to hit a button and call it zero
so i added the buttons to axis "zeroxy, unzeroxy, re-zeroxy"
in the manual tab
(he is not one who likes to type g-codes)
but that's what touch-off does (and it works better)
its on a plasma gantry
unless i am not understanding touchoff
is that based on probing? (i have to read up on that anyway)
Hmm, anythoughts on hal configuration so I can get EMC to estop when a pin goes high
maybe just AND it with the input loop?
(invert it first of course)
alex|lappy: you already have an external estop input dont you?
like are you trying to add another?
i have gecko320s
they have a fault output that goes low on fault
and I want that to trigger a system wide estop
you must do that in wire, not software
as in, use a 5v relay or something?
relays are ok, usually estop is a (NC) chain
I have to run - goodnight
is there something i have to have set up to enable the touchoff button
mines greyed out
that wouldnt work for this guy anyway he just wants to hit a button and have that be zero
madsci44, what about a g92 command?
that shifts machine wcs zero to the current position
it is... not very elegant
but it works
er, at least it does on the old anlam 1400 I use it on all the time :-p
which the touch off?
yeah thats what im using is g92
that works perfect except axis doesnt display the plot correctly
but it will do the job
it does when you invoke it, and when you temporarily disable it, like g92.2 it doesnt translate the visual back to origin
but still he can just "hit a button" this way so that will do
I mean, can he not just punch in a couple of very easy to obtain numbers and use a g54 like the rest of the world?
hmm, so it looks like I can tie all the gecko drives fault outputs together, then it at least faults all the drives at the same time
that would just leave the spindle running, which while not ideal, I could hit the physical estop button after that
you might actually want that
sometimes harder to deal with a burried endmill than with one spinning free
and then I can just have the estop flip a relay that cuts AC power to the servos, so that when I hit the estop button it will def. cut power to the drivers
or at least that will work until I can build a real current dump circuit
and put a relay in that that will control the estop on my BOB
he doesnt want to enter numbers :) hey its his machine what works for him...
madsci44, heh, tell him to go buy a haas then
they have a really nice touch off button on the front
tell taht to any hobbyist and you will get the same result :)
i think the whole point of having software based controllers - besides economy - is flexibility - adapt it to what you want, have it work the way you want. Especially EMC2 - being open source - choice of guis, etc...
that was odd
actually I am honestly really really underwhelmed by the haas machines my school just got
we got a TL-1 and a VF
madsci44 the software on the control is terrible
a couple of times a day it stops reading off usb keys
and you have to reboot
sometimes the lathe freaks out with g50s
not letting go of offsets after you delete them
and sometimes there are programs that will not run no matter how hard you try
then restart the machine and bam, works on the first time
It would not be so bad except for the fact that they make me feel like I am going crazy because they are so inconsistant
they did not come with network card
and they want $2500 per machine
also, we got a 4th axis donated
they want a couple grand to enable the outputs for it
i hate that sort of stuff
proprietary crap - paying $2k for something that should be $200
madsci44, yeah, and if we were making money off it that would be one thing, but it is a Community College
but probably thats their strategy - when they buy the machie they are in for a penny - if they need anything else they are in for a pound (or a tonne)
there is no money for that stuff, and why in the world would they not just enable ALL of it?
it makes no sense at all
Then call and ask them to donate it, and give them a tax receipt
Jymmm, oh trust me
we have tried
again and again
they won't do it
I just don't get why you would not give free features (ones that just need to be turned on) to a .edu
everyone they train is going to be used to these nice new haas machines, and will want to buy those features later
except not, because why would you ever want to do rigid tapping?
* alex|lappy is bitter
im amazed a name like that would be so glitchy
Well, force them to.
madsci44, I wish I was just going crazy, but it is not just me :/
any bloggers? http://code.google.com/p/googlecl/
seems like anything is a risk these days - like companies dont actually try/use their own stuff before they put it in prouction
ths kybrd is a god exmple - heeh
like winVista? :P
yeah like that
alex|lappy: the college is making money off of it
buy training students!
do who cares what the price is. they make it back in tuition
plus, it is a tax right off.
don't for once think a college has no money.
elmo40, huh? my community college is not making any money for anyone
without grant money and donations we would not have any money for new equipment at all
ok i cant find a link to the sourceforge bug tracker
no thats not it
somehow i was hoping my first contribution to emc would be something more positive than a bug report.. heh
so, my estop plan is thus
[06:14:07] <alex|lappy> http://www.geckodrive.com/upload/ElectromechanicalEStop.pdf
I am going to make that
and put a NO relay that is activated @120 volt in series with the estop, and then have it switch a +5 into my BoB
so that when the AC is cut EMC gets Estopped.
what about when an estop is issued from the emc side?
madsci44, oh, another relay in series with the estop switch attached to one of the relays on my BoB
so when the computer estops the circuit charging the relay coil still gets broken
hmm, now I am worried about the amp rating for the Estop switch
only has to be enough to drive relay no?
the relay I am looking at has a 5.2kohm coil
which means there is only .02amps going through it
* alex|lappy orders parts on digikey
what kinda machine is this setup going to be for?
madsci44, a knee mill
madsci44, my build thread I started and have not updated in a week :-p
[07:16:18] <alex|lappy> http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=788127#post788127
my knee mill is next
madsci44, I have been really working on it for about a month
well, more then that
pretty heavy reading for the last 6 months
but focused on actually figuring out what I wanted to buy/make for the last month or two
and then have only really started purchasing equipment in the last two weeks
it has been fun, I have all of my servos working with EMC, once i get this Digikey order I will be able to have a real Estop circuit and current dump for my motors. Tomorrow i will get the analog out I got working to controll my VFD
just need to find a set of ball screws :-p
alex|lappy: linearmotionbearings2008 on ebay
well, I might be getting some from a teacher at my school, he happens to have a set lying around that might be perfect
ballscrews are always murder
mine has some really nice ground acme's in it - ill probaby just run those for a while to get started
Valen, those are all rolled :/
really cheap though ;->
spend what you save on linear scales ;->
Valen, heh, I have already laid down too much dough to skimp on things in general
I keep thinking things like "damn, I really don't want to spend $200 on a sealed enclosure"
i would think the linear scales method would be better in the end
but I also don't want a thousand bucks in electronics to die
because to get a ballscrew as accurate as the scale would be *really* expensive
my thinking is the same - there are some decent rolled available now, just let the scale do the accuracy part
can you get linear scales without the DRO attached?
you do still want encoders on the motors though
just with like a qudarature encoder output?
we got .001mm scales for ~$1000 all up
local machine tool shop
sorry machenery shop
hare and forbes
what you have to look at though is backlash
if theres any in the system it will have some issues with low speeds
Nook (and i suppose others) have sort of a precision grade of rolled screw now
can get anti backlash nuts with those
things like stiction and the like can also look like backlash
thats our problem at the moment
wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?JakeAndRussells is our mill, its just using the scales to close the servo loop
end bearings, flex in the plates,
stretch in drive belts
Valen, ah, see, scales for my mill would be a little more I think
alex|lappy: why is that?
Valen, it is larger
36" of travel in X and 19" in Y
thats not actually that much bigger
ours is 750mm x 250mm
so same ballpark
very decent travels
madsci44, she was well loved whe I got her, but I have a feeling that after I finish this summer I will have a machine to be proud of
especially after i get the spindle bearings redone
if only i knew somone old enough to teach me how to scrape the ways
we are looking to put a spindle on ours
I actually think I am going to send mine in
there is a company nearly local to here that does it super cheap
there are some very cool things available for spindles now
yeah here theres a place like that too - they will do the whole 9 yards, spindle, quill, balance everything, etc
$475 for a complete rebuild, and they will re grind your taper while it is seated in it's bearings
[07:46:57] <alex|lappy> http://www.cm-spindle.com/services.html
problem with ours is 1600RPM max speed
I think mine will do 2500 at the fastest
mines supposed to do 4000 but i dont trust it past 2000
so we are looking at those chinese $500 spindle + inverter combos
thing is I don't think they will have any ooomph at lower speeds
Valen, that is almost half the cost of my entire mill!
get something used, old and american, your life will be happy again
of course, there will be swearing, and the being covered in grease
and the stripped screws
and the sharp edges
the scratches and dings...
alex|lappy: and then ship it to australia and you could have baught a new CnC for the same price
maybe you did make the right choice :D
my dad has an old adcock & shipley
so yeah, any suggestions on a spindle for metalwork rather than wood?
its smaller table and travels old as hell, but its SO solid compared to mine
madsci44, what have you got?
mines a taiwan import
mine's dead >.>
!8 just wait until class starts on tuesday, or call and pester my teacher for ballscrews tomorrow?
the controller decided to short out on me
oh, no magic 8ball in this channel.
heres a recent photo of mine alex|lappy: http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/518/1002234.jpg
far too clean
mine is going to get a fresh coat for suuuure
I am not quite sure what color yet
for some reason this caught my eye
[08:04:45] <alex|lappy> http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd358/gonekayatgmailcom/monarch07.jpg
it looks nice once a week
I would kill for a 10EE
they are so pretty ;_;
alex|lappy: for some reason' .. probably because it's bright orange :P
fragalot, it is cool
like bow ties, and math
this isnt a channel for EMC storage? ie, clariion and such?
stay and build CNC machines with us though
its more fun, I swear.
what's EMC storage?
fragalot, I dunnknow, but how could it possible be as amusing as mashing up metal using electricity and other bits of metal
thanks anyways guy
alex|lappy: assuming your controller doesn't magically short out like mine
* fragalot glares at it from a distance
carriage on that looks massive
madsci44, on the 10EE?
that art deco look is so amazing
* alex|lappy starts looking at ebay
its half the entire bed!
hmmm, they are not that expensive actually
alex|lappy: It's at my friends' place to ship it back for warranty, nfc which chips were on there, bt it had 3 4DIP switches, left 2 controlling the microstepping (up to 1/8), and the right 2 selecting the mode 'mix' 'fast' 'slow' etc
[08:11:51] <alex|lappy> http://cgi.ebay.com/MONARCH-10EE-TOOL-ROOM-LATHE-/290322903213?cmd=ViewItem&pt=BI_Lathes&hash=item439897f0ad#ht_720wt_907
it said V2.0 090907 printed on the board, and that's about all I can give as a description
what happened to your controller?
madsci44: it randomly shorted out.
$2k USD, looks like the threading gearbox is dead but no one here gives a fuck about that
man not good
everytime I switch on the PSU it just goes *Poof*
same machine you were running last weekend?
fragalot, oh, sorry, I was actually asking if it got hit with some chips :o
[08:12:57] <fragalot> http://www.cnc-sable.nl/images/driverview.jpg
alex|lappy: ah, no. and even if it did it's only wood dust
(literally dust, no chips.. only done some engraving sofar)
huh, where are all of you people located?
fragalot: Did you ALWAYS make sure you had a GOOD connection to the motors? even during testing
<- Eugene Oregon USA
fragalot: No chance at all that a wire could have come loose?
Jymmm: measured wires before connecting, and after i noticed something was wrong.
checked out in both cases
fragalot: Not measured, I mean could a wire have come loose at ANY TIME, even briefly?
only wire that could have come loose would be one of the limit switches that was giving me a hard time
fragalot, are you in netherlands?
[08:18:40] <Valen> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Fanuc-spindle-motor-A06B-1066-B923-rebuilt-/120581354757?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c13357505#ht_1086wt_1139
would be a nice addition to our motor lol
addition to our machine rather
Valen, you should do a big DC servo
get yourself some rigid tapping in the process
would need to be pretty dern big lol
we have some 400W ones i'm tempted to use
i bought a beautiful yaskawa AC servo motor to use as spindle drive but came with the shaft locked
madsci44, bad bearings?
second time burned for a servo motor from ebay
nah i thik magnet or misaligned shaft
have you taken it apart?
sounds like fun
madsci44: you could more than likley fix a magnet
shaft turns about maybe 5 deg, feels like its hitting metal in both directions
i never tried disassembling one
thats probably fixable then
if the shaft was bent it'd just get harder not go clunk
i presume they are hard to put together/take apart but theres probably a trick
nah, probably take front and back cover off and just slide it out
slide the rotor out that is
wounnt the magnets make it hard to do nicely?
if it was something bent it wont generally go clunk
it'll be hard to pull out
and scary to put in
but just be a bit carefull and you should be ok
yeah - i contemplated jigging it on the lathe somehow
how big is it?
mount face is about 10 inches
I mean, the magnet in the rotor is not *that* big
if i remember correctly its been sitting for a couple years since i got it
at 4Kw in a servo it's probably getting pretty large
the real stron ones are the coils, which are obviously not energized
its an AC servo
if its AC then there will be no magnets in it
perhaps a bit of residual field
i thought ac servos had permanent magnets, driven like a brushless DC servo with a sine wave instead of trapezoidal
and via encoder instead of hall sensors
AC is generally an induction motor
there are brushless DC motors and they have magnets
the 'brushless' bit sortof indicates the precense of magnets :P
heh ..or field coils :O
field coils would be uncommon in a brushless motor
(mainly because you would need brushes to get the current to them)
shaft on this thing is around 1.25 inch dia
could do it via induction? :P
well can an induction motor hold full torque and its shaft stationary?
fragalot: yeah, then it'd be called an AC motor ;-P
generally not "full torque" but they are definatly above zero with a good driver
I have a VFD that does .5hz (about 15rpm) with large amounnts of torque
[08:35:47] <Valen> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Dover-Air-Bearing-Spindle-Motor-Drive-ATC-BDC-0610-/180521741998?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a07ef2eae#ht_5719wt_913
ac servo i think is a different beast
Valen, no .2" DOC for you!
we are lucky to get 1mm at the moment lol
I... think I would kill myself
also 1600RPM max speed
as much as the controllers of the haas at school are shit
the hardware is very nice
5k RPM with a half inch carbide doing HSM toolpaths is a blast
[08:39:28] <Valen> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1996-JOHNFORD-CNC-MILL-MITSUBISHI-SPINDLE-MOTOR-200V-/150455608814?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2307da65ee#ht_9549wt_1171
more your speed alex|lappy?
WE JUST STRIPPED A 1996 JOHNFORD 850 CNC VERTICAL MILL WITH A MITSUBISHI CONTROL
THE MACHINE WAS IN WORKING ORDER BUT THE SPINDLE WAS BAD. WE HAVE LOTS OF OTHER PARTS FROM THIS MACHINE.
spindle, not motor
Valen is that... 200V DC?
[08:42:07] <madsci44> http://www.yaskawa.com/site/Products.nsf/products/Rotary%20Servomotors~SGMSHSigmaII.html
similar to photo on that page - i think same series
its a 7.5Kw motor
so 9.6 i'm guessing
thats 10hp 0.o
I thought my little .6Kw servos were pretty baller
* fragalot casts a stare at his .5W servos
we are using 400w scooter motors ;-P
hey they did the job frag! nothing wrong with that :)
and easier to carry
madsci44: :) used 'm in my robotic walker
later found out if I let it carry it's battery pack it ground to a halt.
[08:59:16] <alex|lappy> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310205926480&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=%3F*S%3F&GUID=113376291250a0437190df50ffcc6352&itemid=310205926480&ff4=263602_263622#ht_1682wt_1133
that would look perfect on my X axis
yup, that would look nice indeed
urgh all the non crap spindles are 10Kw + and $1000
fragalot: that walker sounds like a fun project
madsci44: it was :)
alex:lappy: maybe in the y? that one only has 22" travel no?
I need to get around to building a CNC mill... :/
was thinking about basing it on this... http://www.artcotools.com/compete-nsk-e3000-series-spindle-system-60000-rpm-pr-16758.html
unless somebody has better suggestions
the problem is most of what I am finding on the ebay is either too small, or needs to get turned down
WalterN: seen the chinese spindles?
and the idea of cutting ballscrew thread off
just makes me wanna puke a little
~$500 or so for 2.2kw spindle + vfd
Valen, this is to make these... http://www.rockymountainwatch.com/
Valen, for the engraving part anyway
it would be nice if it was portable, so he could take the machine with him to shows, and just engrave what they need there at the show
might be worth looking at those chinese ones, if you drop the $5k spindle you would be crying so much lol
god, I would hate to have someone looking over my shoulder while I worked with endmills and engravers near their nice watches
Valen, where I used to work, I set one of those systems up on a lathe for a C-axes
what do the watches sell for out of curiosity?
Valen, very nice, and really quiet
WalterN, I bet that worked mighty fine
Valen, the cheapest ones are $600ish each
the cheap ones only go up to 25K or so
now that I'm thinking about it
I dont think portable is really feasable
I've got a Sable 2015 .. it's portable
if its just the engraving you could make a machine to do it
the controller is useless as it died after a week though >.>
I've turned quite a few ballscrews its not that big a deal
usually like a 4150 and about a C50-55 hardness
its not the process that I don't like
it is the idea of cutting off precision ground threads
they are just so nice and pretty
and you paid so god damn much
nah, to turn them I will just throw them in the mori seki at school
it will make quick work
yeah - but you would have paid even more with the journal you wanted as well
this is my gantry setup http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/7481/lt44.jpg
did you make that yourself/
how accurate is it?
madsci44, is that a RoGR?
pretty accurate depends on what its doing
positional res is 0.001 repeatability is maybe around 0.003-0.005
if its moving fast or pushing a load of course deflection can add to that
for plasma it doesnt matter much since thats a sloppy process anyway
but i made it so i could swap work heads and use it for routing as well
whats a rogr?
madsci44, a put it together yourself type bot that has a simliar construction
ah not familliar with it - i designed this from scratch , based on another design i did from scratch that was similar about 10 years ago
the one pictured was my first EMC based version :)
madsci44, what did you use to power the servos with?
those are steppers
i designed my own closed loop drivers
they position microsteps like a servo
i can get 600 ipm out of them but not with emc yet
each motor is profiled to the drive for torque at each position in the cycle
oh man, the grand nagus is bangin' quark's mom
I'm going to bed
more questions to come
after sleeps :)
have a good one
[09:39:53] <madsci44> http://www.kelinginc.net/CNCSpindleandController.html
might be a source if you havent checked them already
what is the OD of that?
theres a few there
it would be neat to mount one of those to my mill's quill...
oooh, the small one is only 2
yeah i was contemplating that for the router/engraving head
make a R8 taper holder for it that also screws into some holes drilled and tapped into my quill
it would be sweet
2.56 dia - you could almost make an adapter sleeve hehe
they have the bt30 versions below
hmmm, what I really want to do is make a 4th axis
like rotary table?
or like horizontal axis
[09:52:25] <alex|lappy> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glYDe94hxb0&feature=player_embedded
I realllly like his setup
it seems sweet and simple to me
yeah thats cool - looks like lever cams a brake lever against the pulley tho??
nah, he mounted a motor cycle disk break
so it clamps a disk
ah yeah that would be my choice now i have to look again hah
oh duh yeah i didnt even see it
i was thiking once of making like a mini lathe setup that bolts to the mill table using it as a bed
ill not have time for that until my next life im sure
I have a 10x22 lathe
it could probably fit wholesale on my mill table
dunnknow that it could support like 1200lbs though
i was thinking like to use supported shafting on a jig that goes on table surface as way guides, and bushings overtop
simple tailstock and a headstock with a decent bore
without all the transmission stuff i the headstock, and without the gearbox and apron and all that
and using the table as the bed structure i think it would be low enough in weight
im learning now tho its better to have seperate tools
because setup always takes so much time
I wonder if you could find a lathe with totally junked ways, but a good headstock and bearings
but for that idea it would be almost worth dedicating to a mill as a machining center concept
just ditch the ways entirely, mount the lathe tooling to the side of the quill
side of the head
make a little gang tooling setup
maybe - lathes have short stout supports for tooling so i dont know if you could get that from a mill head where theres this longer structure looping around to the part
like maybe would chatter?
so i would still make a little carriage for the turning jobs
or more like saddle
I mean, you could just machine a large ass block of steel with 2 or 3 1/2" lathe tool pockets in it
hmm yeah actually
you have x and y there already so theres a point there
bolt it to the head so that they hang just a bit below the quill when it is fully retracted
I mean, you won't be taking any huge cuts
or mount a tool block to the column - like where you would have a horizontal hhead in a universal mill
is your column dovetail ways or box?
even on a larger knee mill I bet you would be lucky to take .1 on a pass
but probably 2x as wide as a bridgeports
well if you put the tool block there i bet that would help
clamp on the upper section or something
mine has box ways but could do same idea
hahhaa, I could just install a quickchange toolpost on the column
then still have the mill head available for those ops
it is like 3am
yeah 6 here
theres the idea hah
perfect spindle concept - but see? look how close the gang tooling comes to the bearing block
pretty near is not touching
I mean, I spent a lot of time within .05 of the chuck on lathes
thought it doesnt ahve to go past center either so maybe not so important
but his is more like a bed mill than a knee mill
yeah, that is the problem
its why I kinda like the idea of mounting the toolpost on the column
if you had the lathe tools on the same plane as the table
you could set lathe tool height with the knee
and Z axis on the mill using the quill
fersure more rigid I think
plus in that case if your turning your table is back up close to the column
well, i have a bit more throw on Y then a normal bridgeport does, which would allow me to push the ram out a little bit and be able to have a fair bit of room to manouver
yeah that helps
mine has 16" y travel, 34" x (more like 30 practially tho)
G'mornin' mah kneegrows! Say, can anyone tell me what MAX_ACCELERATION does?
uh, sets your max acceleration rate in units/s^2
so if it is 1
then after 1 second your speed is 1
after 2 seconds your speed is 2
ah, okay, duh. That is simple lol
how about STEPGEN_MAXACCEL
what is it at 0.5 seconds
stepgen_maxaccel is same idea except sometimes the software needs to erm think ahead
so you make that maybe somewhere between 5 to 15% higher than maxaccel
I'll just keep it on 1.0, screw it
if you get following error it can be because there is not enough margin between those two values i think
stepgen_maxaccel is the absolute maximum and max_acceleration is the maximum the software tries to obey i guess
that makes sense
im not exactly sure its something like that
Man, etch-a-sketches have wicked backlash lol
at least you dont need coolant
I might shelve it today and start something else. A baby mill or lathe
madsci44:You havent seen me etch :^D
hah - ah yea the carbide age
Seriously, I get fuckin chatter lmao
StonedSlacker, you cant take care of that in the ini?
I'm working on it that, alex
hmm, i think the first step would be to figure the turn ratio
I have to get my scale set right first
is it the same over the entire travel?
If the line builds up then no
I havent taken it apart, so I dunno
Maybe after I get my medicine and get settled in this morning I will take it apart and see
no, it is a pully and wire system
[10:33:53] <alex|lappy> http://entertainment.howstuffworks.com/question317.htm
so it does have the same ratio over the entire travel
hmm, Imma take this shit aprt :D
i need to get my little engines running....
nah, I'll go buy a new one for that. I gotta have one for drawin'
[10:37:11] <alex|lappy> http://www.flickr.com/photos/33383121@N04/4670150830/sizes/l/
they are soooo close
what are those?
my project last term in school
I cant wait to get moved back into somewhere that I can use my lathe and build shit again. Alex, I so jealous I might have to hate on you for a while.
look like little rc engines
me and a couple of kids made a couple of little engines
none of them work yet, I have one more super simple part to make
just have not gotten around to it
That's the same thing in my wife's hundyai
why did I start watching another DS9 episode
you are curious if the FCA and grand naggis will get investigated by the obama administration?
i need to ream c95400
have you ever worked with that stuff alex? /
madsci44, not personally, but I know a couple people who have
its supposed to have a a rating of 60% - i have to ream a 1" dia hole 6 " deep on a lathe
I was watching somoene drill and bore some, and it looked like a horrific process
the end product was really nice
but it is just so fucking hard
not hard, but... I don't even know
it yeilds a bunch and then flakes
it is strange
i read its a bit like stainless in some ways, alloy in others, and idonno
I would take large cuts to avoid work hardening
well, as large as you have the HP and rigidity to do
wondering how much to leave for reaming - the work hardening is what scares me the most
but I would also drill really close to the finsih ID
yeah - like maybe 0.005 on the dia
I mean, 63/64ths
hmm, 1" ID?
oh thats like .015 under
might be better bore it
you will have more info on what is happening
boring shouldnt be too bad
its hollowbar so i only have to come up from 3/4
how big of a lathe
so a 3hp motor?
yeah, go for a fat pass
.075 if you can take it
bearings are good
depends on how nice of a boring bar you have
yeah thats the main thing
reamer is a straight flute chucking reamer
problem is i dont have a chuck to fit the shank on it hah
you making a bushing?
i want to ream because i need to do alot of them and they need to be close
are you machining shafts to fit?
shafts are predone
i have a 0.9995 reamer and a 1.0000
got a inch of stock to test on?
thats a good idea
instead of going full depth right off the bat
I mean, you could just try drilling to 63/64ths and jam the reamer in there
ill still bore it tho i hate drilling that big
mad, with a 3/4 thru hole already there you might be able to push the drill really fast
hence avoid some of that hardening
oh! i see what you are getting at yeah thats a thought
lots of coolant
flood that mofo
oh wow, if you could get coolant running through the headstock bore and into the back of the part
i have to hook the fire hose up for that
actually you know now that i think about it
i have this little jet head
if i aim it just right
if you actually do that, I demand a picture
i will be the guy in the life jacket
yep thats exactly what ill do ill flood it from the back
anyway, good night all!
madsci44, i really do want picture. that is going to be crazy messy.
i will see what I can do
thanks for the suggstions and have a good night!
I'm trying to reporduce bug you've submitted
on what emc version you've noticed it?
i was just going to say i forgot to write that - 2.4.1
downloaded last weekend
I tried both, now im not totally sure which one i ended up building because I switched a couple times due to another issue
or from packages?
i did not use packages - just the tarball
run in place
is it not working the same on yours?
I see, what is another issue?
it works the same
i built for RTAI 3.8 on kernel 2.6.34 - and during the compile there was an issue in any driver that called the a pci read function to test if a device was present
hal_m5i20.c: In function \u2018init_module\u2019:
hal_m5i20.c:288: error: implicit declaration of function \u2018pci_find_device\u2019
hal_m5i20.c:288: warning: assignment makes pointer from integer without a cast
ah I remember, youve told me that
it happened in several other drivers as well - i simply replaced the function call with a null since I do not need those drivers
i figure it was probably due to a compiler version or something
so i did not post it as a bug
if you want me to find any other info - logs or whatever i am more than happy to try
cool, thanks, we will back to compile problem, now I'll try to locate G92 problem
I'm wondering, how the standard step/dir motor driver should behave, when there is no "step" signals on it's input?
Should it pull down all mosfets or just leave them open accurding to last phase?
when you pull down mosfets there is no way to say if motor didn't move
our driver pull down current to 1/4 when motor stops for few sec
the ratio of currents between the phases should stay constant
micges: I have an leadscrew transmission, so (I think) there is no need to lock the spindle
_TwisT_: so you have stepgen driving spindle? with encoder?
on steppers there is issue when you decrease current below some level it can 'skip' to full step phase
why couldn't one just keep the full current flowing
stepper systems should be designed so that it can be done anyway
celeron55: yes I know
we should ask _TwisT_ why is he asking
I develop my own step/dir controller :)
and there is no encoders or any other type of feedback yet
just use full current always
current decreasing is only to decrease of heating of motors
or maybe 1/2 when idle, if torque isn't needed at all when stopped
anyway, never decrease it near 0
micges: thanks for pointing me out the problem with full step phase
you can't assume a stepper to stay where it is when there is no current
celeron55: ok, thanks for advice
My motors are current starved
ATX power supply is low on balls
madsci44: thanks for filing that report
if you dont load the 5V rail an atx supply wont put out its 12V well at all
and at higher currents they expect the load to be balanced at a certain % between 5v and 12v
we use a car blinker bulb as a load on 5V to get the +12 somewhere near right
atx power supplies have only a single switcher regulator with many secondary coils
and if a single output voltage raises too high, it shuts down
they control the switcher based on something like an average output voltage of all the outputs
(if somebody needed an explanation)
Hi from germany
heil from Germany?
I love germans
or the girls atleast :P
trying to run axis in lucid linux
thiel: and what is result?
i even do not find the page where are the instructions
[14:34:51] <micges> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Ubuntu10.04Notes
micges: this is for full install i only need it to view the toolpath so there wars a no reeltime install of axis anywhere for 9.10
thiel: you can download source, install packages listed on bottom of that page and compile emc simulator (with no rt part) to preview paths
oh i see there are packetches pant for this month to 10.04
micges: YES it runs !
i workt thru this http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?Installing_EMC2#Building_emc2_simulator
hmmm I got the busybox prompt while trying to load 10.04 on the new Zotac motherboard
8.04.4 seems to load ok
well no I got the busybox prompt on that one too
boot|sleep is now known as bootnecklad
can anyone tell me which doc to look in for info on custom m codes? how to define them and such?
well fine then
(No idea, just harassing.)
i feel teased, everything i read keeps telling me m101-m1xx is for user defined, but cant seem to find how to define them
Cncmachcncmachineguy, I don't know which manual, but they're just executables in the nc_files dir named M100, M101 ...
Err - phone paste
executables for who? hal? emc? ubuntu?
will emc wait for it to execute before continuing?
So it could be a bash script that uses halcmd, maybe
cool, so i prolly need to figure out halcmd's to do what i need to do.
this is so much fun! i love all this control.
Most likely halcmd sets <signalname> <value>
Yeah, it's pretty cool
then next hal cmd wait <signalname2> true, then done?
cncmachineguy it is in the User Manual
There's no wait in halcmd - when it exits, the job was done
Gotta run, about to start driving
Does anyone here own a Proxxon hand-held rotary tool?
Is that like a Rotozip?
Hey Kimk yes
But better quality
Don't own a Rotozip, but I've seen them on TV, lol
Had a Dremel once, now gone.
I need to know the diameter of the threaded shaft the mounts the collet nut.
Making your own spindle?
I'm making a tool that will hold a Proxxon collet nut and collets. I have the collet nut and collets, but I don't have a way to deduce the exact size of the male.
Sort of. A pin vise is more like it.
why use that?
and not something more standard?
Making a holder for mandrels used in glass blowing. Has to handle pretty high heat. Proxxon collets are steel.
KimK: Thinking about getting this - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121399
intel boards rock
nothing wrong with a tasty amd board
but those atoms seem to get pimped a lot in emc world :)
yeah I got my first atom ever to use with emc
im real happy with it
Endeavour: Yes, a lot of people have mentioned atoms, maybe I'll get to see one at the workshop.
it seems a trifle bizarre to use an atom (low power & quiet) on a machine tool
MattyMatt: most professional CNC machines still use 200Mhz cpus
a 1.6Ghz atom is going to do just fine.
it sounds like a job for a Pentium D, to me
something that too hot & noisy for a desktop
why would you waste power?
atoms are effecient, and can be cooled passively, so you can have a closed case, so no chips can get in.
to save capital. I suppose atoms are about as cheap as another mini-itx solution tho
MattyMatt: you save with an atom in the long run
and they're dirt cheap anyway
atoms are great, add an SSD !!!!
under $200 for atom board + SSD + ps + 1g mem
under $100 actually
proper SSDs are too expensive, and SD cards provide enough speed/storage for this purpose.
bah... who needs 200hmz CPUs, 1.6GHz atoms, SSDs or w/e
why dont we all develop systems using good 'ol TTL
16g SSD $90 at Fry's
bootnecklad: I actually have one of those laying around here
those cheap ssd for fast booting are OK, about $80 or so for 16Gb or so
bootnecklad: but it doesn't have a parport. :P
MattyMatt: thats expensive imo.
fragalot thats awesome
bootnecklad: it boots via tapes :P
if you have to buy a hdd instead, $80 isn't so bad, IMO :)
those cheap ones have crap write speeds tho
thats just... crazly awesome...
MattyMatt: if you're going for 16gb, why not an sd card for less than half the price?
the speed 'l be the same as a cheap ssd
if it's just a machine controller, speed shouldn't matter so much.
hell, it *is* an ssd :P
I am thinking of making a simple plotter, maybe using some old stepper motors from amstrad PCW printers and other simple parts. just need a TTL system that uses G code
time to learn G-code!
fragalot, I went even further, all my backups or on usb sticks now :)
it was cheaper than kitting all my machines out with SD reader
hell usb sticks work just fine too :P
so you just need a spare 4gb usb stick, mobo, cpu, ram, psu, done.
I preume an atom mobo could boot from usb stick without problems
done it on my Eee lots of times
bootnecklad: got a whole pcw system?
I had a few but I only need the one
I also have a +, so I have one with a 3" and one with a 3.5" drive
have a few z80s from the boards, quite a few 256k*1 DRAM chips, never used DRAM before
[19:41] <fragalot> bootnecklad: I actually have one of those laying around here
some pictures would be excellent!
video would be even better
bootnecklad: it's a Sinclair QL
it's an old personal computer, and is entirely TTL based.
cool fragalot ! I have a QL also, they were wicked
i think i have almost 1 of each sinclair micro
they rocked bigtime
i love how you needed t run the tapes in RAID1 because they were so reliable
Based on a Motorola 68008 processor clocked at 7.5 MHz
i still have a bunch of the 3" disks for the 9512 also
as they were used in the speccy +3
I need to replace the belt on my amstrad, then get cp/m and locoscript running
btw pjm, have I linked you to infomation on my cpu? You can find videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/bootnecklad
They may get boring becuase I start to ramble... something oh look a butterfly
[19:18:24] <bootnecklad> http://marc.cleave.me.uk/cpu/index.htm
lol cool i will look
please excuse the crude website
i like old micros from the 80's
my missus reckons i still live in that decade! how dare she have an opinion!!
hmm, I'd like to be in the '60s as I am now
I could make computers that people would actually use!
we have a old core-store card in a picture frame in the house, my missus hates it with a passion, but i reckon its cool
magnetic core memory? in a frame?
well ferrite core store, its about 4 X 4 panels of the stuff
that makes you a proper nerd
give me 5 mins and i'll take it out and photo it
it is cool!
i should buy a single card or so, implement it into my CPU and then watch some vintage-collector-nerds rage at me for using a priceless object
lol my missus just said "are you finally taking down that crap"
what a cheek
it hurt a little inside, how could she say such a thing!
oh wow 8k!
[19:26:41] <bootnecklad> http://cgi.ebay.com/Data-General-NOVA-800-8K-CORE-Memory-PCB-1971-GOOD-RARE-/130400596970
* fragalot still smells like 2stroke fuel after showering twice
the card has an inspected OK sticker, 26/3/71
it existed before me!
I used to have a 3D game for my sinclair!
BJ in 3D land iirc
brb need to re-hang picture, taking ear defenders this time
thats a lot of ferrite cores
back, funnily enough nothing heard from the missus
i saw her mouth moving though
pattex 'no nails' seems to be utter crap
bahaha you live dangerously pjm
pjm: you didnt really take ear defenders?
lol i do, i have returned to my workshop
I glued 2 bits of rough wood together this morning roughly 100x100cm, just pulled it apart with my hands :/
so pjm by now you should be fluent in titan machine code, go into a dark room and make me an operating system
thats an interesting cpu design
just looked up the spec for that pattex glue
so supposedly I just pulled 1 kiloton apart with my hands ^___^ *strong*
pjm I have 256 available general purpose single byte I/IO ports
what I/O should I have?
are u gonna build the uarts etc out of 74xx logic, or use 8255/s etc?
I havnt thought of UARTs yet
dont even know how they work >.<
serial communication yet
all I know though lol
i need a parralel to serial shift register converter thing
i guess it would be worth making some 8 bit ISA compatible interface
so you can use old PC cards
that would be epic
* archivist just returened from the vintage computer festival at bletchley
cool! i want to go there
to see the crypto machines
on tomorrow too
* bootnecklad envys archivist
do you think they would let me take home some of collousousous
Anyone here have any experience with the D510 Atom Motherboard and EMC2?
the one you showed earlier?
frallzor: Asking me?
[20:08:31] <Endeavour> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121399
was thinking about that, no parallell port?
hmm, i have been working in my shop at home 10-12 hours a day since the 8th
Has a header for a port.
I shold probably take a day or two off
[20:09:01] <skunkworks> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nuRea6615s
Did I mention how awesome emc2 is?
what the hell is the taper on that machine?
WHAT THE HELL IS THAT MACHINE?
its a monster
of the hundreds of cycles of testing - no missed tool
32767 tool possiblitys ;)
Know anyone who has used it, frallzor ?
I cant see why it wouldnt work, I use similar from intel too :)
but no par port.
what we have in there now is tool 13317, 18513, 10, 15363, 7178 and 5
elmo40: It has a header for the parallel port.
[20:21:13] <skunkworks> http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/oldkandt.JPG
holy shit, i wish machines still looked like that
skunkworks, that is great
do yo guys have any suggestions on cheap but good enclosures?
I don't want to spend $250 on a sheet metal box, but I also don't want like $1k in electronics to let out their blue smoke
SWPadnos: You rang (last night)?
SWPLinux: : You rang (last night)?
cheif Obrian is using a "micro lathe" to make doll house furniture
or at least he says he is, they don't show it ;_;
SWPLinux: Broker? Pimp? Mule? Controlled Substance?
SWPLinux: Module Named 'Tranquility' to Honor Apollo 11
SWPLinux: Anything else?
gonna write a "safety relay" component (like charge pump, but one that monitors multiple heartbeats, etc), but of course I don't want to call a software module "safety xxx"
SWPLinux: Give me a moment to think about it
SWPLinux: diagnostic, monitor, environment
ok, take your time
SWPLinux: diagnostic, monitor, environment, risk, management, asylum, safeguard
SWPLinux: I personally like 'monitor module' as it can be generic in nature.
SWPLinux: Kinda reminds me of SNMP too.
SWPLinux: "diag module"
SWPLinux: "diagnostic module"
one word :)
SWPLinux: CYA <--- That's one word
SWPLinux: CYA == Cover your Ass
SWPLinux: "The MM (Monitor Module) will allow you to...."
SWPLinux: DAMN Module! "The Diagnostic And Monitor Node module would allow you to...."
sooo I have a quick safety question
no such thing
[21:30:23] <alex|lappy> http://www.geckodrive.com/upload/ElectromechanicalEStop.pdf
I am planning on making an estop like this
alex|lappy: No you're not. it has a defect in the design
please do tell
just gonna let me fry?
or crush my hand
anyway, my estop is only rated for lik 10A
No, not anyway. It really does have a MAJOR defect in the design that will fail in a very bad way.
Dropping out the main contactor really ought to work.
my rudimentary electronics knowledge says that the Estop is only going to have the current that the DPDT relay across it
Jymmm, then really, would you like to explain why?
Just use a REAL safety relay and dont try to be a cheap bastard.
i believe you, but i kinda want a working estop :D
alex|lappy: If you want to know, setup a bench test and find the flaw.
I found it in two minutes.
I think you're overstating the problem
A _REAL_ safety relay is more than my whole machine cost.
Jymmm, uh, why would you not share the information?
kind of a dick move
I can grow new limbs
I mean, if it was an issue of a document I should read, that is fine
but honestly, I don't have the money to buy the stuff to test that circuit, and then not use it
alex|lappy: think about what happens if you hold the start button in, regardless of whether the stop button is held
ah, shorts out thru the relay
the problem can be solved with a diode between the high sides of the two transformers
so the button can't drive the main transformer, but can drive the holding coil (but only through the estop button)
Talking of safety, bear in mind that in this video there is 300V DC onto the motor terminals, but I am actually too cheap to buy connectors.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyeJfNg3NfQ
But I am using a 99p eBay isolation transformer.
SWPLinux, a diode between the relay coil and the main coil, allowing current to only go main coil--> relay coil
* alex|lappy is just trying to make sure he really understands
SWPLinux, I also have no idea how to choose the correct component
i have not had time to take a digital electronics class ;_;
oh hmm, those are AC, so diodes aren't so useful
Gosh Darn it chaps, I put my life on the line making that video at those voltages, and it has zero viewrs!
andypugh, shows as 8 for me
andypuch: how is the bldc comp cominig along
I have been thinking that when I test my motors at full voltage I should probably ratchet strap them to the bench first
not real tight, but enough for them to not jump off my desk if they accelerate real fast by accident
Two are released to the devs, one is still in development.
dumb question? is this something that could be done in the fpga?
the commutation I mean.
Yes, but why bother. Worst case you would need a different PIN file for every Hall sensor pattern
just thinking about unloading the cpu.
Anyway, the Hall sensors were a complex and inferior solution, the sinusoidal driver is simpler, smoother and better.
But doing trignometry on an FPGA is asking for trouble
ok another dumb question. sinusoidal does not need hal?
Hal yes, Hall no. :-)
sorry, hall sensor.
Saves 3 IO pins at the expense of a motor wiggle at startup.
ok, guess it depends on how much 'wiggle' is acceptable.
180 motor _electrical_ degrees. on my 4-pole servos that is 90 motor degrees and 45 ballscrew degrees, so 5/8 mm movement.
SWPadnos, what if I just put a low rated fast blow fuse in series with the momnetary NO switch?
I mean, the switch I have is rated for 15A
so can I just put a 15A fast blow fuse in there? It should in theory never get tripped unless the transformer is under heavy load when the switch gets pushed in
What's the machine? You are probably beeing too cautious if it is an Etch-a-Sketch and under-cautious if it is a 200Tonne 100m/min monster :-)
andypugh, a knee mill
bit bigger then a bridgeport
[22:10:54] <alex|lappy> http://www.flickr.com/photos/33383121@N04/4263848415/
so it could be very dangerous if it gets out of hand
Yeah, that could hurt. Is it only you, or are other people likely to get tangled up in it?
just me, but I don't want to have to wory about it hurting me or someone else
it is in my house
I don't want my house to burn down
especially because a switch got some coolant in it and got stuck close
An E-stop won't help with that
Well, it might, but I think you would have the time to walk to the wall outlet.
andypugh, a defective estop shunting a lot of current through a switch not rated to handle it could
One thing I would say... Are those safety handles?
that is pre conversion, the hand wheels on it are going to get altered so the handles flip in and won't nut you by accident
if that is what you are asking
The BP at work has these neat handles that only engage when you twist the hand-grip (it works pretty intuitively).
Yes, handwheels in the nuts was my worry.
heh, yeah, it is something I thought of
I say intuitively, I had to take one apart the first time I used the machine before I figured it out.
but am I right in thinking a fuse there would keep the button from blowing up?
You need to hold the handle tight enough that it twists in the wheel as you turn it, which operates a cam, which works a plunger in the spoke which engages a clutch in the hub. A bit over-complex but does mean the handles don't spin on rapids.
Sorry, I have no opinion on your e-stop chain.
the supermax we have at school has springloaded folding handles, you just pull them out against the sprint pressure and flip them in twards the center
cheap, easy, simple
i mean, there are still rotating disks out there, but uh, dont wear a tie
The Bridgeport one are automatic and failsafe. And probably cost more than my EMC2 machine
I don't need it, do I? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Colchester-Student-6-Gap-Bed-Lathe_W0QQitemZ370394376642
how can it be that inexpensive?
andypugh, did you see the bright orange monarch 10EE i linked yesterday?
I anticipate a flurry of bidding, but they go for £300 or so anyway. Lovely machines though.
Jymmm: cradek suggested "EKG" :)
SWPadnos, did you seem my fuse idea?
This is rather nice too: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Elliot-mini-jig-borer-milling-machine-/190406911522
I have been thinking of doing my mill in the same color
It's a very functional finish.
andypugh, that is a very clean little machine
imagine what a machine 15-20% bigger then a bridgeport would look like with that ^_^
That little Elliot is a lovely machine, I think I will let it go to someone who won't spoil it. (like I would plan to). Moe details at http://www.lathes.co.uk/elliott%20mini%20jig/index.html
andypugh, that is an impressive belt set up for such a small machine
It's a very serious little machine. I don't think the size was an attempt at cheapness.
no, it seems to be built for exaclty one thing, and to do it damn well
viz that Monarch 10EE: The ATK Company, manufacturer of the Space Shuttle solid propellant boosters (RSRM) was still, in 2009, still using a Monarch Lathe manufactured on December 7th, 1941, for machining flares and dissecting igniter cases.
SWPLinux: I'd suggest MCM
andypugh, there are a bunch of lathes at the shop at school, probably 25 including a couple of 15hp American Turnmasters, a 20HP Clausing and a bunch of 2 or 3 year old Harrisons
SWPLinux: The Miss Cloe Module =)
I use a 1940s LeBlond
because god damn, it is nice
holds a tenth no problem, a really amazing c5 collet system
They didn't get any better at making lathes after about 1940. They just got cheaper.
can easily take off .2" of aluminium in a pass even with my shitty indexible carbide tools
I should take a picture of it next time I am in the shop
the only thing about it is the max spindle speed is a bit low
like 1800 RPM
Though my 1938 Colchester is actually rather rubbish.
Not desperately stiff for a a 6' between centres lathe, and a 6 tpi leadscrew on the cross slide with a 1.25" micrometer thimble is just bizarre.
6tpi? on an acme thread?
that does seem a little strange
So, 20 graduations on the thimble, each is 16 thou on diameter.. The only way to use the machine is with a DTI on the tool slide.
why don't you cut a larger diameter thimble?
It would foul the cross-slide. You can only actually see it on small work
And it is in my dad's workshop, 200 miles away, so I am not that bothered :-)
hmm how to stop wood from deforming after milling?
talking to me? =)
frallzor, kiln dry it
whats PEG then? =)
kil n dry+
frallzor, a lot of the warping is caused by moisture
honestly, just call a art supply store, see what they suggest
for carving and the like
Poly Ethylene Glycol
one would expect that kitchen counters are dry when you buy them
what does that do then andypugh?
[22:49:14] <andypugh> http://owic.oregonstate.edu/pubs/peg.pdf
alex|lappy: Lathes.co.uk goes into raptures about that Monarch 10EE lathe, seems to be about the very best lathe you could ever get. http://www.lathes.co.uk/monarch/page2.html
andypugh, they are not that expensive either
there is one on ebay right now for $1500 that has a junked gearbox
it would be the perfect CNC conversion
I class that as expensive. My lathe was £750 brand new. And worth almost half that.
[22:53:27] <alex|lappy> http://cgi.ebay.com/MONARCH-10EE-TOOL-ROOM-LATHE-/290322903213?cmd=ViewItem&pt=BI_Lathes&hash=item439897f0ad#ht_720wt_907
andypugh, I just really can't get over the art deco look
They are 40 years after Art-deco, it must be art-stiffness
* jthornton needs to get the cd drive and hard drive off of the box of cracker jacks and into the case :/
Cases are generally over-rated, but not in at atmosphere with significant metal content ;-)
[23:12:04] <skunkworks_> http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=790006#post790006
He obviously didn't try the IRC link
"there aren't any drivers for the mobo for linux"
I don't think he gets it.
and honestly, I hopped on this channel like 4 days ago, and I don't think I have ever had another linux software IRC channel be as helpful as you guys have been
it is pretty great.
"This is based on EMC2's latency test when compared to Mach3's equivalent"
sounds like a fair comparison...
well, depends on the quality of the drivers i guess
(of the hardware that is in use)
well, i think the first thing is, why is it EMC's fault that ubuntu does not support his mobo properly (even though I doubt that)
So ive built a 3axis x,y,z machine with dremel and 3motors
ive got 3x pololu stepper drivers
I should warn you that according to a CNC zone thread we are horribly unhelpful here :-)
im trying to figure out a wiring diagram for hooking them directly to the parallel port for emc
well cnczone never helped me
Err "direct" is a bad plan
P-Port can handle 5mA...
i thought i just needed to give x,y,z step/direction control
What's the spec of the motors for current/voltage?
Sorry, I missed the "driver" part.
ive got an ATX PS to run all that
yeah the Pololu A4983 Allegro based bipolar stepper motors
You can pretty much wire it any way you choose,
what do i haveto wire
But what is the connector on the driver?
um it has 16 solder terminals each one is labeled
[23:32:47] <foxtrot> http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1201
its that one
Yes, I was already there.
3 of thoser, hooked to three of these http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/item/28M035/search/Lin-Engineering-4218L-01-10-bipolar-stepper-motor
it should be a simple Stepgen configuration.
Sorry, I meant stepdonf
No I didn't. Stepconf. That's the word
oh my http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=790107&posted=1#post790107
heh, still dont know what you mean, stepconf?
the StepConfig Wizzard on the CNC menu
Work out which P-Port pins are inputs and which are outputs, (either from wikipedia, or by starting stepconf and seeing what it offers) then decide which pins you _want_ to use as enable, step and direction for each driver, and give those settings to stepconf.
oh only one z
i dont have any linuxcnc stuff installed
should i just download the livecd to test this?
im running netbsd, so im trying to avoid any compatibility issues while im testing this beast for the first time
is there an echo in here andypugh?
If you have the drivers and a P-Port plug you are pretty much ready to install and go,
i have both those things
jthornton: PLCguy really knows how to pour oil onto troubled forest fires.
it seems so
but i dont have a zero position encoder for x,y,z tho
how important is that
You mean a home switch?
my machine is simply mechanics + 3 drivers + 3 motors + spindle
You can manage without, add one later. There is certainly no point bothering until the motors are moving a machine.
you can move to a match mark and call that home without home switches
a pencil mark or something to kinda get you close so your soft limits work properly
whats the definition of limits
say you move everything to the center of the travel and click on the home button then EMC thinks that is 0,0,0
you define them
based on the physical properties of your machine
That too is handled by the wizard, you say what the min and max travel of the axis is, and where the home position is.
you set them up so and EMC won't allow you to jog into the hard stop
* jthornton wanders off to fire up the barbie
I'm getting latencies around 80000ns
Checked the system info and all four cores of the i7 are operational
Memory is fine.
Usage of all resources seems fairly low.
That's shocking latency for about the fastest CPU on the planet
Ah, you actually already answered the question, to an extent.
You are running an SMP kernel, patched for RTAI?
is it all the "let's power down the cores we don't need" magic at work?
I was waiting for him to show signs of life before posting the isolocpus link
i need to finish building stuff i need so i can build emc deps and rtai on my new desktop, kind of curious how much havoc all the power savings options i turned on in bios cause, to get an idea what to buy for work, just not warming up to those atoms
morfic: Want me to make you a motor driver for your lathe? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyeJfNg3NfQ
I don't see why not, cheap, good latency, 20x the CPU power of the best machine you could buy when the lathe was made....
andypugh: that's the thought that remains, more cpu power than any of our machines
andypugh: running plain old AC motors and stopping them at any angle with the arduino? or "just" running servos?
And EMC is _really_ not very demanding
That video is a brushless, Resolver, Servo.
yeah, that's why i was asking, to be our hero, it would have to make some 40HP motor magic ;)
And I have not done the induction motor test yet, that would just be HAL config and a willingness to try something that common sense says is foolish.