hmm well i cant get it to drop it again
aa-danimal-shop quit antagonizing your poor machine will ya?
sure, as long as you dont mind footing the bill for the broken tools :)
aa-danimal-shop put a powerful magnet there to catch whatever drops
it dropped a 1/2" carbide ball endmill like 3 times and it didnt even chip, i was pretty impressed
anyone aware of any off the shelf solutions to power (without contact) a few mA chip inside a jaw of a chuck that will spin at up to 8K rpm?
L84Supper nah i think the field is wide open for you to capitalize on there
didn't they make yo-yos that lit up though?
when it's spinning fast it should be easy to power inductively by having it pass a coil , or coils 180 deg apart
oh wait i see batteries in the packaging
I never pulled the ones I had apart.... did they just have a battery with a contact switch activated by centrifugal force?
I got a fishing reel that does its drag with rare earth magnets
which is sorts the same deal in reverse
I bet there's some light up yo-yo out there that generates its power from the spin
I can battery power it with a battery that will sustain the force
or solar with a bright lamp
yeah wrap the chuck in a flexible solar cell
or wrap the chuck with a coil
I bought a 10 pack of garden lites man those things are really slapped together
when I really looked at them the solar cells were in them all crooked and stuff
hand made by kids in Thailand?
I donno whoever did it was obviously pulling their third shift of the day though
Inductively-coupled serial would work
Possibly re-purposed RFID
I worked on the software part of a propellor de-icing system that used coils on the prop and the static bits as a generator for the de-icing power, and controlled the really rather clever stuff in the prop with a serial protocol imposed on the the generator fields.
Sadly I was on the software part, not the electrical part. Which is ironic as I was employed as a mechanical engineer. And the electrical table was the middle one of the three in the small company.
Either the room is shielded, or this wifi card ain't workin
could be an ACPI problem, because the machine doesn't turn off
andypugh: yeah, that's where I was heading RFID + small battery/supercap
esp. since every part to be machined in the chuck will also have RFID tags
do you need to power it when it's not rotating?
and will RFID work with a stationary reader and a spinning chip?
yeah, it will store some power when it's stationary, and RFID will work if it's spinning
what does the chip in the chuck need to do then?
dynamic pressure in the jaws?
static and dynamic
yeah RFID abuse would be good for getting power, if you get an overspecced reader especially
I suppose the chuck will never spin fast enough to doppler the RF out of tune :)
I wonder if there's a legitamate way of making RFID sensors
plus the chucks are only 5-6" dia
several machines only a few feet apart, knocking out millions of parts per year of the same general type, I guess they get loose a bit too often
a few parts per million failure means flying spinning objects every month/week or so
now if the chuck had motorised jaws too :)
that seems to be the last bit done by hand
neat. bellows howto -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EV-eHIGzMPg&NR=1
jstenback_ is now known as jstenback
we shall see
arggh. this wifi card is bugging me. time to string a cat5 across the hallway
they work for me, work for compy, but do they work for momma?
I'll put her in the fruit cellar if she complains
seb__ is now known as sebjames
gosh. I wonder if it's :safe: to order from this site: http://menvil.com/product_2362.html
SWPadnos: why would you want to?
they're $100 less than the next higher price I found
but since I don't read Russian, I think they're out :)
give them a call :P
I don't speak Russian either ;)
(though my father and brother in law do, so I could probably get it done)
don't we have the most valuable dollars these days?
(ie, it's even less if it isn't US dollars)
rubles would be really great
were on par with Canada
and still hovering close to it
not bad vs. the Euro or UKP though
that same laptop here is: http://qurl.org/Ay0
it would be cheaper to mail it from russia to here then to buy directly from here :P
[14:53:58] <SWPadnos> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834220687&Tpk=ul80vt
it's silver, but lots cheaper
if J&R will ship to you, they're $750-ish (USD)
so $755 CAD :)
we do get ripped off
even our cars are 5-8k more, and we made them!
you probably get better deals on hockey skates or something
MarkusBec_away is now known as MarkusBec
can someone recommend a nice pendant that has both start and pause so it can be used with touchy
all you need are two buttons, plus a couple of labels that you write "start" and "pause" on
well I have no good place to put them
so I want them in the pendant =)
what I mean is that any pendant that has actual switches will do
seems like if you have a touchscreen and a pendant, it'll take two hands to operate
you don't need one that lists those specific buttons
I havent found one with a single free button atm
the prebuilt ones all seem to have axis selector switches on them - that's no use with touchy
touchy uses the wheel for more than just the axes
interesting. I hadn't noticed the lack of buttons before :)
cradek: shift rail solinoids are hooked in.. http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/conversion/oh_its_a_start.JPG
dad said - 10% done! ;)
you never push stop and start at the same time, so a center off two-way momentary toggle could work for that
(so only one hole)
but you still need a singleblock/feedhold switch
MarkusBec is now known as MarkusBec_away
skunkworks_: go go go!
we found a nice ground buss also - lower left/
does a singel momentary switch + extra p-port work for touchy then?
touchy doesn't care where you find the inputs, but it needs at least two buttons and a toggle switch, or equivalent, in addition to a wheel.
just hook up 2-3 inputs to them and voila?
yes it's just hal, you can get the inputs wherever you want
mine happen to be opto22 modules on a mesa card, but doesn't matter
straigt to p-port will work too?
[12:01:37]<cradek>yes it's just hal, you can get the inputs wherever you want
it doesnt say if it will work directly =) might need some resistors and such, I have no idea =)
I could fry it afaik =)
that's a hardware problem :)
but afaik strigh to p-port should work
(but yes, you can use a resistor to pull up to 5V, and then connect the switch to the port pin and ground)
just need to figure which pins to what
consult manual, it has parport pinouts
time to slaughter my p-port card thwn
the connector is screwing me over
skunkworks_: what kind of servo amps are those?
MarkusBec_away is now known as MarkusBec
amc 400v 40a
* cradek ran an axis into the limit switch at rapid speed last night, whee
break anything expensive?
I had a case of the dumb
nope, it just stopped
ouch.. did it hit the hardstop before it actually stopped?
nope, I think it was fine
it was Z going up, so I bet that was the best one to do it
I bet I'd really hear the whining if I disallowed continuous jog if not homed...
but on my machine that would be very appropriate (definitely best to use the wheel to get off a limit switch)
skunkworks_: The relay board on the left; what "controls" that? I don't see any data connector.
I wish it were easier to put wheels on my mill
Administrator_ is now known as aa-danimal-shop
can you still jog with the keyboard in touchy?
frallzor: no, touchy does not use the keyboard or mouse, that's the whole point
the whole point is not being able to test without investing in expensive stuff and discover its not for me? :)
frallzor: you can jog with the wheel, and/or do continuous jogs with switches/buttons if you have them on your panel
what do you mean? there's only one
Jymmm: it will be run with a ribbon cable from the mesa card when it gets hooked up
do you mean a physical one or one in the interface I havent seen?
skunkworks_: Oh, just dont see the connector.
have you read the touchy docs? http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/gui_touchy.html#r1_1_1
you mean mpg?
Jymmm: that board - the ribbon cable will fan out into the screw connectors.
aa-danimal-shop: what irc app do you use? it auto logs you in as admin?
Eric_K: wheels? as in moving it around the shop?
so no possibility to try it withour investing in stuff =)
Yeah, it be nise to have kybd/mouse control as a backup/troubleshooting method.
or just a way to be able to try touchy at least
I don't see how you could emulate a wheel with a keyboard
why not just like in axis
you could use halcmd to twiddle touchy's hal inputs
cradek: arrow keys maybe?
workes fine there
cradek: maybe mouse
axis doesn't use a wheel to run stuff in the gui. it's totally different.
frallzor, if you want something that works just like AXIS, why not use AXIS?
MarkusBec is now known as MarkusBec_away
since I want to try before I buy? =)
I dont want to do major work just to try touchy and realize axis is good enough
Wasn't Mini designed for touch screens?
not really, it was designed more for lower resolution screens, I think
mini? I have read posts but never seen it
try DISPLAY=mini sometime
[17:11:14] <Jymmm> http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/gui_mini.html
I like most of the layout of Axis. there needs to be some tweaks for me to be more comfortable.
hmm mini might be nice for me....
I don't know anything about gui editing, though.
is axis gtk?
I dont need good looking interface as long as its functional
axis is python and tk
[17:12:27] <Jymmm> http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/gui_tkemc.html
ah, tk. I know a guy who knows a guy who can edit that stuff ;)
where is the file where you edit stuff like display = blabla etc etc? forgot its location =)
man. you need a refresher course :)
well its been a while :P not much emcin when building!
it's the ini file, the one you choose with (a) the config picker (which shows its directory) or (b) by typing the full path on the command line
what I want to do is have it setup for dual monitor... one for toolpath display along with co-ordinate info, the other for the controls, g-code view.
I think someone made the preview available to other programs (it's being used in a Pascal UI that's under development)
you can always run two GUIs on the same machine, so making one that just shows the preview/backplot and another that has the controls/g-code would work fine
mini is pretty ok
hi is the mouseweehl the speed ? during milling
I can use that!
no. the mousewheel is used for display manipulation in AXIS, and probably ignored in other UIs
there is a mousewheel mpg http://emergent.unpy.net/01229702111
you could use the input driver with a secondary mouse as well
so what reduses always the speed of milling i do not use a tool in ngc code at sometimes its down to 20%
if you put the mouse cursor over the feed override slider, then the wheel may adjust the slider (that's a function of X/gtk)
Jymmm, yeah, got one :)
SWPadnos: Ah, here we go... http://www.3dconnexion.com/products/spacepilot-pro.html
SWPadnos: Now, there's a control for emc =)
SWPadnos: No CRT/LCD needed =)
heh. android running on it - that's too funny
or they copied the icons or something
we have those on our CAD computers.
only $450 CDN
spacepilot is quit nice i use this on ProE
there are 4 versions of this aplication!
with up to 16 taps for diferent use as in draw asm mode animation and so on
can EMC thread tapered threads?
yes, but you have to calculate the pitch yourself, since the drive line isn't parallel to the thread axis
(so K20 at an angle will give you 20 TPI on the diagonal, not along the Z axis)
I think I understand
at least, that's my understanding, based on the complaints I've seen :)
heh - that is how I understand it also
it is more flexable.. but not the way say - a fanuc control does it.
I didn't know if you could just do a G10 L1 Rn to rotate the coordinate system
if you can, you'll have the same pitch problem
HUH?!?!?! 3ph 1/4 HP - that dont make much sense. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1666839752.html
Jymmm: I've had 1/4hp 3 phase motors on equipment
they last longer than single phase motors, and I think they have more consistent speed and higher torque reserve
no starter windings.
and possibly less torque ripple (if that's even an issue with AC motors)
yea, i got 2 coolant pumps here that are like 1/8hp and they're 3 phase
the current doesn't seem right.. I would expect the 220a/208 amperage to be higher than the 440..
i bought little vfd's to run them
must be a .6 - not 6 ;)
skunkworks_, that's probably .6
Ok, so if you wanted just on/off, how do you control 3ph motor like that?
motor contactor relay.
skunkworks_: three contacts?
seen where the switch just 2... but I would want 3
I just scored a gallon bag full of AB selector switches 2 4 position and the rest 2 position and an MPG
jymmm: with heaters..
you can't rotate the XZ plane so doing tapered threads that way won't work. you have to use G33.
G33 works in any direction
Jymmm: 3-point contact relay. open all circuits at the same time
Hurco vertical mills.... Does anyone have any experience with them? Good or bad.. Thinking about buying a Hurco knee mill to retrofit with EMC2
Hurco mill pict..... http://www.naabmachinery.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=290&products_id=424
[18:16:01] <elmo40> http://www.rdmachinepro.com/uploads/3/1/3/6/3136765/7042673_orig.jpg
Not this one in particular but the same model
The KM3P. I think the KM5P was bigger
looks nice. what is a #20 quick change?
It is an Erickson taper, not Cat 20 compatible... The Erickson was meant to bridge a couple of standards..
bridging standards is lame. either pick one or the other.
why make another taper?
I bet they mean "universal kwik switch 20"
wow, I love the star trek monitors
Here is a really good explanation of various spindle tapers .... they specifically talk about the Erickson spindles.. I looked around and on Ebay and finding tooling is no problem used or new.
[18:25:39] <Dave911> http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html#Erick
I'm really wondering how well made the Hurcos were. I believe the KM3P was quite popular for some time....
I don't think there IS an erickson quick change 20. but QC30 is very common
so, be careful you know what you're getting if you buy that machine - pretty sure it is misdescribed
mine uses a Kwik Switch 200 or Rapid Switch as some call it
That isn't the same one I am looking at ... I can pickup a used KM3P for $2500 with a money back guarantee, seems like a good deal if it isn't all beat up.
I think it is a QC30.....
There sure are a lot of machines available!
I've been looking around for a Mori Seiki Jr as Mr. Radek has and those are a little more rare at least in the midwest.... The Hurco mill is probably more than enough for what I want to do...
wo first test of semi assembled Z axis
QC is ok, but usually you want to tighten it with a spanner
tool changes aren't very fast.
I bet it will sound better when all tightened :P
better than a manual drawbar, though
Yep, I'd like an auto tool changer .. but at least it doesn't have a manual drawbar as you say... I've seen a few Mori Seiki Jrs - but most look really beat...
all linear rails - no wear
I bet they are beat because they're good machines
you should have seen what mine looked like - wowie
[18:42:35] <cradek> http://geektrap.com/bill-files/01248711886/dscn7526.resized.jpg
Is that a picture of your mill "before" ?
[18:43:55] <cradek> http://geektrap.com/bill/01248711886
Wow.. ok... perhaps I need to reconsider... ;-)
looks matter not :-)
MarkusBec_away is now known as MarkusBec
wow, looking back, I kind of forgot how much work that was
heh - I look at the k&t when I spliced what seemed like thousands of wires when I was in highschool. Now it doesn't seem like much now that I know how it works.
skunkworks_: isn't it amazing just how many wires there are in a machine?
skunkworks_: this one had a wire going to the cpu for every possible fault in every part of the machine. so much wiring.
So what do you think are the vunerable spots in a Mori Seiki Jr machine? The spindle?
I only used about 1/2 of the wires in the Hardinge
Dave911: I hear that one cam follower that runs the tool change swing arm always breaks. Mine was loose when I got it - I bet they work loose then break - so I loctited it.
cradek: it is unreal - the k&t has slow down switches.. :) within an inch of the end of travel - the switch tells the machine to start slowing down..
(I don't think I need that.)
I think that is a safe bet also ... ;-)
Dave911: electrically, with the old control, the carousel is buggy and sometimes gives you the wrong tool or gets stuck between pockets - I fixed that on mine by moving the feedback proxes and doing it smarter in ladder
the way they have the sensors is really stupid
it was easy to fix and it has always worked perfectly for me
but what sucks is they use one swith per axis for limits. But I think I can use the the slow down swith as one limit and the actual limit as the other end.
the coolant system kicks ass. the coolant stays in the machine. it simply can't plug up and run onto the floor.
That's not too bad, I guess, after you figure out what to do to fix it! Well perhaps I should keep looking for a Jr mill. I really like the tool changer. I have a turret on my CNC lathe and I can't imagine changing tools all of the time manually.
Yep, coolant thing is a big deal also.. another thing I really like ....
What do you think is a fair price for a Mori Seiki Jr. mill?
I'm afraid that's like "how long is a stick"
mine had lots of problems and I bought >$1k worth of parts to repair it
I know... but if you saw one with dead controls for $3000 would that be a good deal? What about one with some problems but it basically moves..
if you can see it RUNNING and test it and the spindle sounds right and the ballscrews are tight and the toolchange works and the lube pump is pumping... that's all worth a lot
That is what I am thinking also. Even if the controls suck if the motors move and things don't grind etc.
if it's mechanically good $3k is a steal - but it's pretty hard to tell with a dead control.
The ones I have seen that have been in running condition from dealers are oftentimes 10K plus even if they look like crap.
you can get to all the ballscrews pretty easily, which is a good thing for testing a dead one
Just put a wrench on them and turn them..?
running I bet $10k is perfectly fair
no, just put your hand on them and turn them - you can feel if there's any slop or grindyness.
Ironically there is a probably 25,000 lb vertical mill - full CNC about 30 miles from me that they want $4500 for. But the thing is huge. I'd have to build a building to put it in.
The big stuff is just hard to handle.. and it takes some serious power.
yeah that's 2-3x as big as mine
if you have residential power, you probably wouldn't even be able to run it
the mori is the very high end of what I could run on my power.
What size is the spindle motor on yours?
Do you run it off an inverter?
[19:04:28] <cradek> http://timeguy.com/cradek-files/emc/spindle-motor.jpg
spindle has a moderately big vfd
I guess it's 5hp continuous, 7.5? for 30 minutes?
Did you have any problems getting the VFD to run off single phase?
I have the vfd set for the continuous V/f
I have a big rotary convertor. pretty sure there is no such thing as a single phase 5hp vfd.
and there are other 3ph motors on it - toolchanger has two, lube motor, coolant motor
a single phase conversion for this machine is not realistic
Yep, you are right I was thinking that was HP at first glance.
I've heard you can cheat them into working sometimes off single phase but I think you are right. I have never seen a single phase rated 5 hp vfd.
yeah you might be able to trick it, especially if you have one that you can hook directly to a DC bus - you could put all your capacitance outside it
I've got a phase converter I made out of a 10 hp motor and it works well. I have even run the output of that into a 7.5 kva 3 phase transformer and stepped it up to 480 3 phase successfully.
I think mine is an 8hp motor - it is big enough to run this machine.
If things keep going well this year I might run 3 phase into my shop. I have it at the street and there is a pole already next to the shop. It would be a relatively cheap install.
I was quoted $20/month extra for 3 phase to my house...
but installation cost $75,000
i'll stick to my VFD's
I have a CNC lathe that I may have to move out of the shop where it is at and bring it "home" literally and it has a 40kw spindle motor..
thats a good size
$75K hmmm.... wonder if you could recoup your cost when you sell the house ....? ;-)
Yes, it is a big lathe.. about 22,000 lbs without the accessories ...
If you have a REALLY nice workshop
cradek: did you ask if they take payments? Like over 99 years?
Or a really fat wallet!
"how about $25 instead of $20/month and use the difference to pay off the installation fee?"
(it'll only take 1250 years)
Did they actually tell you it would cost $75K?? They must have had to install a 3rd phase on a number of poles or something like that ..
actually they said "well above $75,000" because they'd have to run cable for miles
we're kind of isolated - happy to have electricity at all
cradek: you in bfe?
Yep, you in BFE =)
nah, just a bit out of town.
man i didnt realize how good broadcast television has gotten lately.... i threw an antenna on my house and the HD stuff is insanely clear.
cradek: Anywhere you are Happy to be able to get electricity is BFE, sorry to tell ya =)
* cradek shrugs
cradek: Too bad you're not near some light industrial area
* archivist_attic offers a 3phase genset :)
cradek: No rivers or streams near by?
60A per phase 240V
I live amongst a bunch of Amish people in Northern Indiana.... I saw a gas line crew digging across our road. I went out and talked to them. They were considering running a 4" plastic gas line down the road 3400 feet to supply gas to an Amish business.
The Amish guy was using a diesel generator to make electricity to power his casket making shop. Apparently with the cost of diesel he was considering running a big generator off natural gas. Two years ago they ran brand new 3 phase lines down the front of his house and past my house. I think they are 13.2 kv or something close. But he has going to run a gas line instead so he could...
...make his own electricity..... go figure... The gas guy said it would cost them $10 per foot to run the 4" line or about $34K. I told him if he runs it I might tap into it. No problem - about $300. They haven't run the gas line yet. :-(
huh. at least you have the electricity if you want it.
I was about to wonder aloud what makes the gas and electricity morally different -- but that way lies madness, so I'm not going to
i thought the amish didnt use electricity
or combustion engines
For occasional use a diesel genset is fine. But if you want to actually make parts on a regular basis I think it would be cheaper to setup a shop near a 3 phase power source... If I bring my lathe "home" it will be to run parts on in volume.. It is really a production machine and not well suited for low volume stuff.
aa-danimal-shop: beware madness!
geesh i guess
so they can have 3 phase, but have to ride a horse and buggy everywhere? where's the logic in that?
i'll tell you where.... NOWHERE
[19:23:30] <cradek> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabbath_mode
Ahh.... well it all depends...
Cellphones ... ok
Phone booths on your property ... ok
Phone in your house ... not ok
Gas powered lawn mower - you are going to hell
Diesel powered Bobcat.. ok
Diesel powered Bobcat with hydraulic mower - ok
My neighbor has a propane powered standby generator and a big propane tank. He wore out the generator in two years!
Now he is back on a gas generator which sucks because he can't remote start the generator from inside the house like the propane model.
Dave911: Don't they have like BIG fields out there?
I could go on and on ..........
Dave911: Don't they have like BIG fields out there? Seems like solar would be a way to go.
hahha can we integrate sabbath mode into emc?
or even wind
They don't mow much though. Mowing is hard work by hand. I have 2 1/2 acres of grass I cut, my Amish neighbors cut maybe 1/4 acre of grass and probably less...
Most of the Amish around here use solar panels to recharge their buggy batteries (to power lights and stereos equip... ) Some have wind turbines also to help. Others just use generators.
Some of the Amish are converting to non Amish simply because their kids can't get work and an 8th grade education is a real problem.....
Dave911: Ah, ok.
I have a "squeeze" LED flashlight I picked up for $3. It's not bad for what it is. But I'd suspect Amish cold just toss on one of those bicycle generators on the wheels of their buggy
which protocol is suitable to use to communicate with a VFD in emc, FC-protocol, Johnson Controls Metasys N2, Landis/Staefa Apogee FLN or Modbus RTU
I really need to pick up a few more of the squeeze lights. Great for in the car, etc.
hmmm i just got an "unexpected realtime delay"
do amd mobos ever have smi, or is that more of a pentium thing?
anyone ever used modbus RTU to control their spindle here?
are there modbus cards for EMC2 ?
dont know, but all you need is a RS485 port and being able to talk to the unit that you want to control
with the correct protocol
Modbus RTU should work fine. I have it talking to a PLC. A drive that is compliant should be no different.
Some drives are not entirely compliant ....
yeah my drive is compliant
but I have no idea on how to implement it =)
Modbus is driven from the Classic Ladder. So you need to read up on Classic Ladder and the Modbus fall out of that. Then you need to link Classic ladder to the proper Hal pins to get your spindle speed setpoint to the drive.
Modbus RTU works with writing and reading bits and also words (16 bit words) to and from the slave (your drive).
I would fire up the Classic Ladder and first get it talking to your drive via Modbus.
hmm how to connect the two of them then...
serialport > "pins"
kill a nice "cable which I dont have" =P
There is a bug which has not been fixed "I believe" having to do with multiple word writes to the slave.. You can get around that by writing one word at a time to the drive. Chris Morely on the EMC2 forum seems to know quite a bit about Modbus and EMC2.
The rule is that you will never have the correct cable.... ;-)
well I have to deal with that when the time comes (even though I could do it now)
There is a lot of info on the web on how Modbus RTU works.
the commands are allways the same?
or do I need specific ones for my vfd?
There are a number of Modbus RTU I/O cards that you can buy.. CNC4PC sells some. There are also some for sale on Ebay. I oftentime hook PLCs to PCs via Modbus RTU. I've done it with Mach3 and EMC2. By the time you buy a custom Modbus RTU board on Ebay or CNC4PC you can buy an entire PLC from Automation Direct or pick up a used Siemens S7-200 which also supports Modbus RTU.
why would I want a i/o card when I allready got a RS485port?
How the VFD implements Modbus is entirely up to the VFD maker. There are no VFD <-> Modbus standards.
or it wont work like that directly?
Sorry.. I was trying to answer awaillin's question.
ahh :P ok
now I see
You can run a wire between your PC com port and the drive and it should work if the drive is compliant.
ill get a cable tomorrow and start cramming!
You can do it! :-)
[20:21:35] <frallzor> http://vimeo.com/10530991
my first run of my semi assembled Z axis!
wow, it's fast, but what's the grinding noise?
stuff not being tightened :P
hi i createt a layout milling with the new CNC-via Eagle PCB-gcode EMC2 on xbuntu hardy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJIA3-U23Cs
and some rack and pinion
can someone check if the file on youtube is ok PLEASE
the stepper can move in 3d atm :P should only do 2d movement :P
steppers... those were the days (never again :)
hey my steppers work fine!
the numarray lib was handy but seems to be borq'd on -= and +=, so changing from vec += vec to vec = vec + vec fixed it.
else every element in the array of 50 was set to the resulting value
as mine do the video shows the latest milling!
130ipm on a machine this size isnt too bad for steppers
sealive, vid runs ok here
frallzor: what motor is that on the z-axis?
on my mashine ?
there are all the same on eatch axis
490 N.cm min
[20:35:57] <sealive> http://www.mechapro.de/catalog/stepper-motors-c21/stepping-motor-nidec-servo-kh56km2-951-p46/?osCsid=3cfnt64aieghn4mo3ls7kpsaa0
china steppers less than 10$
that keeps the cost of a scale bulding mashine low
china does not work good and long
I have a set withpowersuppl stepper und controller for 200$
and are you surprised of the output
lower then 400Ncm i guess
mor then 5Ohms
i got them to here but these does now fit my price and does work poperly
on the same controller 4.5A at 32V
with 800mm/min speed thats more then i need
ok Good Night =G8
If I need more power I use DC servos
same price more power :)
Where can you get DC servos for that price?
my servos cost 20$
with 512 lines encoder
I have a pair of rather nice NEMA23 servos but they are weak relative to steppers of the same size.
MarkusBec is now known as MarkusBec_away
[21:02:39] <MattyMatt> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bridgeport-Milling-Machine-with-DRO_W0QQitemZ330417292947
andypugh -> -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EV-eHIGzMPg&NR=1
That's rather cool.
I used to do a lot of origami, so I should be able to manage that.
bitumen and canvas, is what old cameras seem to be made of
It would be a different shape for my lathe, but the basic principle is very simple.
It never occurred to me that it could be folded from flat sheets.
ah, so your mill Z is defo going internal?
Yes, I am well on the way.
It puts the forces nearer where they need to be
Though I think that the problem with the Z dovetail was that they had milled the dovetail flat face, then ground _most_ of it, leaving a 2mm high ridge in the inside corner.
(2mm wide, fractions of a mm high)
I don't know enough about dovetails to even know that's bad
even lathe beds perplex me a bit, when they have separate ways for the crossslide and tailstock
I need to look at a few real ones, to see how wide the bearing surfaces are etc
The dovetial is meant to bear on the flat surfaces, the dovetail part is just a wedge to force them together (and to take the lateral forces). If part of that flat surface is a little ridge rather than a flat surface then it all doesn't fit properly.
The bearing surfaces on my mill column are meant to be 33mm, not 2mm
diamond hone time?
Engineers scraper. It took 2 minutes. I found it while I was blueing and scraping the parts anyway, so I had the scraper in my hand already.
I've worked out a couple more things I can do to stiffen mine. It's never ending
I still don't need a dial gauge to see my tool mount waggle tho :)
The bracket thing?
I think you need a sharper bend, and a bolt as close to the bend as possible.
I've got a linear rail on my ballscrew, I'm trying to identify the make to get a matching slide
the bracket isn't flexing, it's the whole X & Z arrangement. not enough slides on the X now, and the Z needs more glue & screws
The Young's Modulus of wood is quite low anyway.
yeah, this is selected pieces of red oak, so it can be stifffer if I glue the plys together
Wood 10Gpa, Ali 70GPa, Steel 200GPa, Diamond 1140GPa. The latter might be outside your budget.
I've got 10mm + 6mm packing, held with 13mm screws atm & no glue
and a 2mm steel draw slide, mustn't forget that
it's a leaf spring atm
most of my flex is coming from the X now tho. not enough slides. I don't think my ballscrew unit has internal slides after all, I've noticed the nut flexing
so I'll be bending my ballscrew until I get that fixed
I think that will be bad for the nut.
me too, so I'm fixing asap
I'll get my blender model up to date. my ballscrew unit has a shim dustshield so I've not seen the ballscrew myself
I'm scared the dustshield will spring off, and remove several fingertips in the futile effort to reattach it
I ought to get inside to check the grease
oh hello there MattyMatt
Can you find any specs on the unit on the internewt?
What make is it?
that would make it too easy
[21:49:01] <frallzor> http://vimeo.com/10530991
lookie MattyMatt, progress!
thats the noise of untightened stuff =)
its all nuts and bolts tightened by hand :P
best view is in http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/5959/p1010043j.jpg
behind the drill
Nice to see craftsmanship is not dead ;-)
Not these, I don't think. http://www.boschrexroth.com/business_units/brl/en/produkte/Linearsysteme/linearmodule/index.jsp
very similar style. this one is probably a defunct model from them
So now it is just a process of elimination..
Those have integrated slides.
the rail looks like one of theirs, ~23mm wide
you guys know a bunch of weird shit, so i have a question - I'm trying to find a book or information on how to bench and tension bandsaw blades
all the old sawfiling books i found don't cover benching saws
not a term I have heard of
it's hammering and pinching the blade to get it to run on the crown of the sawwheels under sawing tension, so that the saw doesn't have any drift angle to it
apparently dinner is ready! woo.
Kawaguchi plastic injection molding machines .... their controls .. DOS based.. by any remote chance does anyone know anything about these? Yes, this is a shot in the dark!
Has anyone ever tried controlling an injection molding machine with EMC2?
worked on some korean ones, and their controls were just plc's, sequenced events, so HAL is suitable replacement to control the individual devices/sensors
sounds like EMC might be overkill