[00:05:24] <Valen> http://en.myinventions.pl/index.php?page=3Dscanner
toast_ is now known as toastydeath
Valen: your work?
ha ha no way its on a record player
I only have three words to say... BBQ!
Jymmm chicken and ribs?
pfred1: NY Strip Steaks and 1/4LB Hot links
Jymmm: from where?
ds3: My freezer
bbq is a noun
Jymmm pour some beer on them steaks mmm mmm good!
not mine no
[00:14:59] <Valen> http://www.geekologie.com/2010/03/youre_doing_it_wrong_speeding.php
now thats just messed up
ds3: I get a in bulk from the restraunt supply
ds3: You cut them to the thickness you want.
one big slab
doing any special rubs?
So for around $45 or so, you get about 15 one inch thick NY Strip Steaks.
ds3: Salt, pepper, worchester sauce, onion powder, garlic powder
Though, tthese dont' really need all that, they have a lot of flavor and are tender.
I'll NEVER buy meat from Safeway/FoodMaxx ever again, maybe ground beef, but that's it.
Tasteless cardboard crap!
ds3: roughly $3/steak - you can't beat it
Jymmm if i go down the road and shoot a cow i can!
Jymmm I'm telling you pour some beer on a steak while its on a grill it makes them tender and juicy
beef and lots of paprika
over egg noodles..
pfred1: the meat they sell in the grocery stores around here is just crap.
Jymmm where are you at?
ds3: Goto Cash & Carry on San Carlos & Leigh
pfred1: south of SFO
Jymmm: isn't that downtown SJ?
Jymmm yeah well in America we can still get OK meat :)
i go to the mexican supermarkets. The meat is so much better than the regular supermarkets. And it's cheaper
ds3: Used to be the OLD Safeway
ds3: Before Midtown Safeway was built
damn they really pack them in there
no butchers? the 'mexican' groceries around here have good meats. and great turnover, glass bins piled with rather thin cuts get replaced several times thru the day.
yep, i agree aa-danimal-shop
ds3: They have some good produce in there too, but you just have to look at it and watch for specials
Jymmm: isn't that area a day-time visit only area?
Jymmm I'm a little less crowded here: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=San+Carlos+%26+Leigh,+San+Jose,+Santa+Clara,+California+95128&client=firefox-a&ie=UTF8&hl=en&cd=2&geocode=FT-COQIdnZm7-A&split=0&sll=37.32337,-121.923814&sspn=0.006295,0.006295&hq=&hnear=San+Carlos+%26+Leigh&t=h&ll=38.68901,-75.27669&spn=0.012026,0.014441&z=16
btw, I think I found a source for the mesh locally
All those are too far away, good stuff here. http://maps.google.com/maps?q=smith+valley+meats+richcreek+va&hl=en&cd=1&ei=mMeiS5-nLJeeM86nuYAI&ie=UTF8&view=map&cid=16381153224113293074&hq=smith+valley+meats+richcreek+va&hnear=&ll=37.399687,-80.811653&spn=0.020251,0.055189&z=14&iwloc=A
clytle374 hey look you're right by Lunch!
Thursdays are pig days, I don't like those days. Pigs are smart enough, they know what up.
clytle374 you guys do some good barbeque in Virginia
Grew up in KC, so no.
nah i don't like KC style
You went to the wrong place, KC isn't dry style. That's Texas or LA
this place called Lunch is making me hungry for some dinner
pfred1, we don't eat lunch around here, so not sure how it got its name.
now i have to go check this place out where they seemed to have nothing better to do than to plant the trees in a pattern http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=38.65961,-75.260339&spn=0.012031,0.014441&t=h&z=16
could always visit here
[00:57:04] <Valen> http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=la9+woomera&sll=-33.753334,150.722553&sspn=0.014665,0.033023&ie=UTF8&hq=la9&hnear=Woomera+SA&ll=-30.90193,136.486716&spn=0.030269,0.066047&t=h&z=15&iwloc=A
we launch rorckets there
Valen I'd go to Wallops Island to do that its a bit closer to me
probably closer to me too lol
[00:59:52] <Valen> http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=la9+woomera&sll=-33.753334,150.722553&sspn=0.014665,0.033023&ie=UTF8&hq=la9&hnear=Woomera+SA&ll=-31.476695,129.215698&spn=0,357.886505&z=10&layer=c&cbll=-31.63907,129.000921&panoid=ZhMHICJ95xbXFogDt3Fd1Q&cbp=12,58.22,,0,5.82
if you want a job in the middle of nowhere, how about this border station
looks pretty swampy pfred1
Valen oh its mud flats
we have a pfc here we like to get meat from..
the doors on the electrical box are welded back on. Next is a little bondo and paint... :)
Man, that was tasty!!!
Wallops Island, is there a big NASA facility there?
clytle374: We could tell you, but we'd have to kill oyu
Just checking, I was there once.
I think, it was close to there.
those trees are in the shape of Louisiana
weird...especially since they're in Delaware
MarkusBec is now known as MarkusBec_away
Goddard flight center. How could I forget that fiasco?
wow. what an interestingly worded review: http://thinklaptops.net/2010/01/asus-ul80vt-review/
"he thickness of only 1.1 inches, the thin laptop category, and the inner sides carved rounds looking for the skinny."
"the thickness of only 1.1 inches, the thin laptop category, and the inner sides carved rounds looking for the skinny."
SWPadnos: "Yo Bro... it be da shizzle yo!"
Any suggestions on small thrust bearings that will take a radial load? Must be cheap.
I was going to use a double row angular contact bearing, but the cheap ones aren't preloaded.
[01:47:05] <SWPadnos> http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/CTGY/Thrust
they are on ebay too
I've got belts so they must take a side load also. Wouldn't 2 angular contact type be cheaper?
2 angular contact type would take both radial and axial loads, which a thrust bearing wouldn't
+ a little pain and suffering setting up the preload with shims.
preloading a ballnut?
Well, preloading two angular bearings, then probably oversizing the balls in a screw
Now I have motivation to get it running faster. Buddy has a 5000 piece engraving job he would probably farm out to me.
get it finished!
just make sure you quote it good lol
it'd suck to underquote a 5000 piece order lol
Since I know his cnc mill has a bad spindle and is way backlogged, I should do okay
man, the metal supply place has been hooking me up lately.... they like the fact that i pay in cash
wonder how much of it makes it on the books lol
A little probably
I'm about ready to see if I can get a cutter ground for the timing pulleys
I'd need about 10 passes with a 3/64" BEM to get an acceptable groove.
with 150 groove pulleys, I'm not trying by hand.
yea the cutter will pay for itself
X 3 pulleys
cant buy them?
try calling around and see if you can get one made?
like pulley mfg companies
i'm sure they do custom ones
so does a cutter
even if it was 200% more than a regular pulley, it's still probably cheaper than making it
I really need the 10 to one ratio, might try the 7 to 1 I can get off the shelf
for the axes?
big difference there
7:1 vs 10:1
what mill are you retrofitting again?
X2 (mini mill)
you know... bigger servos would probably be cheapest
if you're savvy with ebay
but it sounds like you're in a rush
[02:19:51] <aa-danimal-shop> http://www.large-gears.com/custom-pulleys-sprockets.html
I'm using Yaskawa drives(got them real cheap) don't think I could hang a big enough one(torque wise) on the end of the table.
if you're buying 3 pulleys, the setup cost will be broken down between the 3, so you might be supprised
I'm thinking a normal lathe bit ground to profile in a keycutter setup might be pretty cheap.
I contact them. I'm going nuts trying to figure it out. I was going to use the MXL belts until I found out they won't take it.
expect a couple hundred for a custom cutter
Someone might own me a favor in that dept.
last time i got a basic custom cutter ground it was about 300
340 i think
for a lathe profile?
X2 is pretty small whats the specs on the servo amps?
I thought I could get an end mill ground for that much money.
XYA 50W Z 100W
what's 100W ???
100 watt I'm guessing
oh, sorry. i misread
that is pretty teensy I spose
we used 200W ones on our direct drive, but wound up defeating the current limit to get a bit more herbs
low on torque, got the speed to mack up for it.
Valen, what sized mill?
[02:27:27] <Valen> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?JakeAndRussellsQ
I ended up with 4x50W and 4x100W motors and amps for under $200
Blank wiki page?
[02:29:33] <Valen> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?JakeAndRussells
cool, what kind of torque do the motors make.
I've been confused because everyone uses steppers and they need over-sized for different reasons.
So I really don't know how much force I need at the cutter. The best answer so far is measure it during a cut.
But it is in pieces right now.
An RF-45 is next on my list.
Looks like I've got a winner http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/ANGULAR_CONTACT/Kit1084
those look good
* GreyMoons reads up
$300 for a lathe bit ground?
I must be fucking rich with all the lathe bits iv ground
GreyMoons is now known as BlackMoon
ries_ is now known as ries
does anyone know if you can get those AMP 0.2" pluggable terminal blocks with screw contacts on the socket side?
[08:50:16] <MattyMatt> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3617342
that's the plug, but the socket only comes in pcb header from that place, I want to use them for motor extensions
MattyMatt: how many pins?
MattyMatt: These are the type of connectors I use. They have male and female panel or in-line mount. And they screw lock (which I like)... http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/parts/micconn.html
they are overkill. these ones are cheap and good for 12A, and my driver board uses them already
so it's just 4 pin I need for now, so all my steppers are plug and play
I can make what I want with stripboard. not too ugly
MarkusBec_away is now known as MarkusBec
I'm trying to run the example for M1nn in the manual but the parallel port pin does not change. http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html//gcode_main.html#sec:M100-to-M199:
is the example wrong?
e-jones is now known as jkastner|away
jkastner|away is now known as e-jones|away
I noticed that the manual has #!/bin/bash and the sample M101 has #!/bin/sh what is the difference?
depends on shell you like to use
JT-Dev: there are various shell's for linux
bin/sh is usually just a symlink to a certain shell (it used to be /bin/bash, recently changed to /bin/dash in Ubuntu)
so the manual example should work with either?
yup, either should be fine for what it's doing
there are special shells like csh (c shell) with additional functionalities
the basic shell operations (denoted by /bin/sh) should be accepted by any shell
hmm I wonder what I'm dong wrong? I have a sample gcode that moves a bit calls M101 to turn on paraport 14 then runs a bit then calls M102 to turn off 14 but I don't see it change in the watch window
Shiny, how to make a Vtwin, step by step: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6847.0
aww crap I think I found my dumb mistook
* JT-Dev smacks himself on the forhead
[11:50:09] <GreyMoons> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/gbritnell/V%20TWIN/EB.jpg
man one day I hope to have enough paitence to do shit like that on my manual mill.. :)
problem exists between keyboard and chair
gez at the time spent
even a crank rod looks great. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/gbritnell/V%20TWIN/FY.jpg
[11:58:57] <GreyMoons> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/gbritnell/V%20TWIN/GA.jpg
Love the scale..
archivist yep :)
[12:03:36] <GreyMoons> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/gbritnell/HJ.jpg
thats one of the more awsome engine interiours iv ever seen
[12:12:51] <JT-Dev> http://www.linuxcnc.org/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,20/func,view/catid,27/id,2357/lang,english/#2357
hi ho hi ho it's off to work I go...
e-jones|away is now known as e-jones
Ok iv gotten kinda used to the random cuts and nicks being a machinist
but how the hell did I get a 1' long cut on the bottom of my foot?
GreyMoons is now known as BlackMoon
did it involve alcohol, a dingy bar and a chick named lorraine?
I should probley try and track less debrie from the shop into the carpets though
hey Jymmm, got a question for you
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<archivist> problem exists between keyboard and chair
occurs more often then not
a guy at work says he 'lost' his dvd codec... the REAL problem is he fiddles with the registry (windows) and uses a slew of those 'cleaners'. So paranoid.
got my new tap today
its like tapping butter
or yeah, it is
gasp! differing quality of taps? ;)
nah, all taps are made exactly the same...
even when made in diff countries!
well I knew there is different qualities but never knew it would be this great
the store said there isnt much difference, but Im sure as hell am going to tell them to go fuck themselves
is it a thread roller? or does it still cut the threads
i practically stopped using those kinds.
although I have forming taps, but didnt wanna use them with steel
the odd one is still a cutter
most of my stuff is Al so i use the rollers
its fun, this great brand tap is cheaper than the crappy ones I bought
Never brittish crap again =)
dormer IS british
isnt it swedish?
as in sandvik
now owned by yes
well my shitty taps are brittish too :P
brooke, I love the name :P
theres shitty tools in every catagory
Thing is, Good tools may not cost more
And things that cost more may not be good tools. (See: Audiophile gear for example of price = precived quality)
you mean 6 gauge oxygen free cables don't really sound better?
heh - now now.. (I have a guy at work here that is the same way - he has his audio cables (think welding cables) on standoffs so that they don't contact the floor)
welding cables would make good speaker wires :P
but lol at standoffs
did he buy the $100 'audiophile' standoffs?
heh - I think he actually made them..
iv seen such retarded stuff like $1000 blocks of plastic you stick on or near your stereo
doesnt even plug into anything
claiming to use voodoo rays to rewire your brain into thinking you havent been cheated out of $1000
I think his turntable is worth more than my car.
on the one hand, I can understand a high quality turn table being better then a low quality turntable
on the other hand I have no idea why you'd want to spend a lot of money on a turntable.. or even any money.
I spent $5 on one a few years ago
I even spent $30 on a new stylus for it
no, an actual analog turntable
sounds reasonable. :P
one day I may find some records :)
I try not to laugh out-loud when he talks about 'burning in his cables' (as they age thay sound better)
as he ages, things sound better
(or less different anyway)
as he ages, shit smells better.
no, the nose continues to grow ;)
maybe I could start a business based on selling 'aged' cable. I could sell the post and knob wiring as the best..
I say you stick some reasonably good cable inside a length of garden hose
the protective (and waterproof!) jacket really helps
you never knew how much humidity affected the high tones
we must not be 'refined' enough.
cal is now known as Guest49376
Mortez-cs is now known as Mortez
hah. too funny. my credit card bill this month is $6969.69
I'm glad you're laughing
well, that includes business expenses, plus most of a vacation we're taking late next month
mine has been sitting around 5g for almost a year... cant seem to shake it :/
are you in .us? does it have the "if you paid the min, it would take nn years" thing on it?
I do have that line on my statement
but I'm paying it off, as I do more or less every month
what does it say (how long)
me too, it was just amusing on mine.
29 years, $15027 total payments
gotta love thieves!
that doesn't seem that bad a total
compound interest is such B.S.
adding $100 to the minimum of $139 makes it 3 years, $8615 total (savings of $6412)
compound interest is what dorks pay!
archivist: and how do you suggest the dorks to avoid it?
compound interest is what makes banks get 3x the price of your house over time ...
don't buy stuff you don't have the money for, that's probably the most foolproof method
they lost out on ours
we went from a 30 year to a 15 year, and finally gave up and paid it off
i changed to paying weekly. same total annual payments but dropped my term by 3 years! very odd how their math works.
I've been thinking about refinancing, but at this point we're 7.5 years into a 30-year mortgage, and I'm not sure I can save much with the origination fees and points and stuff
we're at 6% now, and I don't know how much lower we can reasonably get
we ended up paying the same amount for the 15 as we were on the 30
just pay a bit more each month
SWPadnos: where is 6% that is still high.
granted, the interest rate went down a little, but not all that much
yeah, I know the payments end up around the same, but given the additional fees added to the total, and the fact that we've got 22.5 years left now, I don't know how much impact it would have
6% is a bit high now, but it wasn't bad when we got the loan
SWPadnos: your mortgage may be for 30 years, but the term is 5.
every 5 or so you renew, dont you?
that is why you are paying 6%
you signed up 7.5years ago.
if you signed up now it may be something like 4 or 5%.
well, maybe and maybe not
and at weekly it would prob bring it down to 24years!
fees. what country are you in?
it's not a good refi market from what I hear
and there are always origination fees, usually between 0.5 and 2% of the total loan
and you have to pay points to get the really low rates, which is of course more out of pocket $$
never heard of origination fees. what kind of shit is that?
common practice here
you already pay them compound interest, what is with all these fees
paperwork fee. ie: they like to make money.
on our last refinance, they threw those into the loan and the payment stayed the same as our 30 year, payoff period was shorter
wow. that is a made up fee.
roll the fees in, 5/15 + fees would probably be about the same payment as existing 6/30
fees are what oil the financial adviser
2% of the loan?? Ho-lee-fcuk
dude, your country is ripping you off
allowing that shit to happen
they got the money
and your healthcare is pathetic
they're all made up fees.
the other thing is that I want the company I deal with to actually keep the loan
all of it. even compound interest is a made up fee
swpadnos, good luck with that.
I don't like the idea of my mortgage being wrapped up into a "debt package" that some other investor buys
bill2or3, well that's what I have now
mine kept the loan, until the company got bought. :-|
SWPadnos, it's worse than that, they also sell the right to bet that you are going to default
SWPadnos: cant change that. it is a debt-based society. you think there is all that cash lying around? NO. there is only 5% real hard cash in the US. everything else is made up.
that sucks, I bet.
cant change to a debt-less society, everone would go broke.
there's no cash. you need to read a little more ;)
I know quite well how the banking industry works here, and how it got started
how about just less debt, just a little, please.
personal or govt?
read "The Creature From Jekyll Island" by G. Edward Griffin if you want some very interesting information
"without debt, there would be no money" - from a federal reserve report in the '50s I think
debt is fine, some of the leveraged deals have gotten out of hand
I think you missed the point there. there would literally be no money in this country if there were no debt
consider this: all the money we use was borrowed from the Federal Reserve system
if the national debt were paid off (which is quite impossible), there would be no currency
this is a 2hr movie about how the Canadian monetary system got all screwed up. something worth watching.http://qurl.org/dx0
put it even more simple then that.
if all your cash was gold you could buy with only what you had. period
we went to currancy and fictional values on paper so bankers could make MORE money, faster.
SWPadnos: whats the practical upshot of that, whats to be done?
nothing is to be done.
head in sand
the 'federal reserve' and china owns you
and the fed res is just a bunch of PRIVATE banks pulling numbers out of the air!
they dont have anythinng
there's no easy answer, but one idea is to retire the "legal tender" notes we use, by setting the value of all outstanding notes equal to the reserves of gold and silver we have, and distributing the gold and silver in exchange for the notes
basically go back to a gold standard
SWPadnos: exactly. going back to 'hard currancy' is the only way to settle this.
but, good luck
yeah, I'm not hopeful that will happen
i bought gold, do you know whats on a US mint coin sold for 1000$ about 2 years ago? "50 dollars"\
dont get the coins :P
the buffalo , regular US mint issue
1 full ounce, pure
strangely enough, there has been little inflation (relative to gold) in about 2000 years :)
only because gold has gone up through the roof!
what is it now, 1000/oz?
apparently, there's some line in the bible that says that a piece of gold was more or less the amount you pay for a nice suit
something like that
the part of a gold oz needed to buy a suit has not changed since civil war
since biblical times actually
will make my next computer more expensive :P
gold is an anchor for your money
its not a way to make money
tom3p: should have been
but in the 50's? 60's? the americans said 'screw this tying my currency to how much gold i have...' and went away from the standard. then all hell broke loose
no, it shouldn't be
oh well. time to do some work. bbl
"The price of gold has changed!"
If you're paying an ounce of gold for a suit, you're getting ripped off. You can get TWO hand made, custom tailored suits for FAR less!
"the part of"
Anyone need a microscope... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1651377869.html
$1 Kent CNC Mill http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1648993811.html
Jymmm, we have a user named kent_cnc
BTW, he's asking $15K for it
SWPadnos: He's asking $15K for it. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1648993811.html
hmm i need to take some capacity out of my machine's built in coolant tank
well, that's about $14999 more than I want to pay :)
aa-danimal-shop, put a few bricks in it
aa-danimal-shop: get a straw
like people did/do with toilet tanks
Fill 2L bottle(s) with sand
i have a, external tank i'm using istead, and i have a pump in the internal tank to pump out any that makes it's way down there, but the level isnt high enough to reach the pump
problem is the opening is only like 3-4 inches round
do you think 3/4" gravel is a bad isea?
Water bottles with sand/pebbles
yea, i guess i can use smaller bottles, good idea
drain it, pour in cement
atmega, i thought about it!
but too permanent, and the machine is heavy enough
you can always chip it back out..
plumb around it?
not really a way to bypass it.... coolant always finds its way down there
man, webstores are great. i love not having to reply to a bunch of emails anymore to take orders.
I tapped butter today aa-danimal-shop
or at least it felt like it
nice! got good taps?
what kind did you get?
from the motherland and all
is epp quick enough to do step generation? wouldn't the step generataion be divided by atleast 6 (if there are 3 reads and 3 writes)
10 tapped holes in less the time 1 took with the old tap :P
skunkworks: epp is a handshook protocol, it needs a smart device on the other end of the cable to shake hands with
handshook is a word i just made up
how many you got left?
seb_kuzminsky: yes - understood. (nice word!)
oic, eslavko made a smart board to shake hands with
right - but isn't epp slowish compared to raw printer port access?
no, microsecond cycle times are normal for epp
oh - ok. So it may work just fine.. :)
yeah, sounds like a fine plan to me :-)
so you could have a epp hal componant running at some base thread doing the 3 writes and reads..
skunkworks: i think a hal driver for the elavko board that uses epp internally and exports gpios to hal would be the way to go
seb_kuzminsky: made room for the mill yet?
when is the big move?
the garage is painted, the electrical work's all done
well get up here then
see you in 8h
if the weather's good i'll go get it April 9th
I took off work today - wheee
we've got white-out conditions and 12" of snow, i think i'll wait for another day ;-)
i've been playing with pycam and heekscad/cnc
yeck - we had 60deg weather this week - now it might snow this weekend..
we had 65 yesterday and today it's trying to snow
i think it's possible to do everything from cad down to machine control with open source software in linux
that would be quite a culmination
heeks looks like it'll work
I should learn to use it
it's early days for heeks yet
sounds like it is only getting better..
but i'm going to try to use it to make parts in april
I look forward to hearing how that goes
they're currently switching from pure python to c++ for the toolpath generation, wihch is a huge performance improvement
they're evaluating anders wallin's kd-tree dropcutter code, it looks good
cradek: did you see this: http://highlab.com/~seb/heeks+axis.png
(that's with the old pycam toolpath code btw)
any news about the parametric solver?
someone who was on here from time to time wrote it, I believe
there's a sketch solver in heekscad now
i haven't tried it, dont know how well it works
there was a youtube video of the author showing it off
looks like it worked
there were some screenshots a while back, but I wasn't sure how dynamic the system is
seb_kuzminsky: that looks very interesting
ie, whether it's close enough to parasolids to be really useful (for me)
[18:29:57] <seb_kuzminsky> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nibjuxCbUag
yep, that's the one
bizzarre how you draw it bogusly and then afterward fix it all up, making things square and the right size
it's not that strange i think
for example, you don't draw freehand to the exact dimensions you need, you poke those numbers in after the basic sketch is done
same with angles, and horizontal & vertical are just special cases :-P
yeah I see it works - but I've never used software that works that way
i learned solidworks in 2006, it's got the same kind of workflow for sketching & then adjusting
yea, i like that method seb_kuzminsky
what makes it really useful is if you decide later that you screwed up a dimension, you just change it and everything gets moved for you
I last learned cad software in '93 and I'm still using it
solidworks has some shortcuts, lines want to snap to vertical & horizontal, etc
i use solidworks, and mastercam drives me nuts because it doesnt do that
seb_kuzminsky: I like that you can dimension a piece like 3.5+.125
Jymmm: yeah, or like 5inches+4mm :-)
like "oops, I can't get a toothed belt with 102.5 teeth, so I need to move the motor mount .3cm further out"
for extra insanity
the future is almost here, and it's going to be awesome :-)
seb_kuzminsky: that too =)
even better is X="length of base line"/2-0.5
sometimes I think it's the future, sometimes I know it's not
SWPadnos: Stop it.... that's just crazy talk!
now you're just showing off
cadmax lets me do that
SWPadnos: solidworks too
yeah, I know
but cadmax costs 1/30 as much
or was that 1/50
it's the bee's knees
seb_kuzminsky: Stop watching the Geico commercials
hi there in the USA
how much is cadmax?
$300 for a complete parametric solids modeler seemed like a good deal
and heeks is free (if your time has no value)
it doesn't do sheet metal like SW does, and let's say the UI is kind of "unix-y", but it works ;)
for a complead modeller gi to the next UNIversity 50dollar and get a licence for 2jars!
SWPadnos: i bet heeks has it beat for unixy-ness: the gui writes a python program and runs it to generate the toolpaths :-)
thats what i make
YAY got my resistors!
Quest a Reamer "1/4zoll" is this 6.35mm
if a zoll is an inch, then probably
don't know what a zoll is
in germany its not available for users caouse of maybe amunichen like size
reamers usually have an even number of flutes so you can measure them with a micrometer
yes inch i mean sorry from germany
what does this cost for shiping from USA
thats the size of the Steppermotors axis
you would have to ask the seller of the item what the shipping costs are
it's simply not available in germany
heh - we where measuring a spine and it took us a bit to get the hole the right size to fit the spline.. (the spine was uneven numbered)
that shoud fit in a normal airmail card
are you making a coupler/kupplung? may be cheaper to buy coupler
yes simpler to buy a coupler or just bore it
that's small but possible to bore
ok so will try 6.4mm Drilling
no, that will be loose
6mm then bore
is bore a cycle on the emc2
yes you can use G85
I suppose you could also use G76
i did testing this morning and cama with max power milling of the spindel (10mmdeap,,5mm with) to 800mm/min
thats quit hevi for me and my homebild mashine
i need a better tool to get more load
the blue powermill
But call your doctor if you mill for more than 4 ho!urs
ok the drilling will do better :D
so today ther is the famous wok race in germany
i got to go to see how they race the ice channel in the China wok's
sounds like an alcohol induced sport
and sounds fun!
finally, X mounted and alignes
how long before she moves under her own power?
is there any way we can add an "undo touchoff" button to axis?
Ill be trying to fix Y this weekend, if that goes well I can mount Z to it
and its 100% complete mechanical
aa-danimal-shop, I don't think that's likely to happen
does undo touchoff mean "go back to the offsets that were in place before I hit enter", or "cancel offsets"?
need to order cables too
then I can make it move too
it means "go back to the offset i had before i hit enter when the wrong axis was selected like an idiot"
yep. that's the one I see as unlikely ;)
computers should have a Rewind button on the front
there's reset, does that help?
also handy when you're doing file management from the command-line at 2 in the morning
mv -R * /dev/null
copy twice - delete once?
* SWPadnos doesn't know if mv has a -R flag, but it seemed funny at the time
rm -rf /tmp/ *
mv / /old/
rm -rf c:\*.*
eww. that's ugly
well at least you escaped the first splat so it wont match much :-P
ugh, i keep misspelling "python" as "pythong"
hmm, maybe i shouldnt have admitted that in public
a pythong would be a very strange thing to wear
* archivist has a strange image in his mind
kind of like a jungle spring break dare
[20:31:38] <skunkworks_> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIg5goj0vbI
I hear something clunk to lock it, but I wonder what it is
similar turrets over here have stepper drive, that sounded different though
I didnt know south bend had finally gone under
nice little machine
slow video, these would be the fastest tool changes ever: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4c2_ToGx6sA
i wish the HNC had a turret like that
it sucks not being able to turn something more than a few inches long
jepler_ is now known as jepler
yeah tailstock would be nice
but it works for 99% of what i need it for
the other 1% i can usually do on the manual lathe
cradek, do you think it's worth putting a clean lagun variable speed head on a bridgeport clone to replace the step pulley head, assuming the price is right?
I have no idea!
there's one on a pallet at the electrical surplus yard, he only wants $150 for it
has a power drawbar too
looks really clean
motor and everything
I bet the drawbar is sure tempting
i can get that for $50 he said
you know it'll be (much) louder right?
yea... i've run alot of laguns
thought about buying and selling it
I suppose how could you go wrong for that price (except by dropping it on yourself)
can't believe it's snowing heavily again
toastydeath, think it's worth it? i know the price is good, but i'm not sure if it's worth the hassle of the swap
I thought that was over
varispeed head is worth a lot more than 150 bucks if you do a lot of milling
toastydeath, i have a vfd on it now, works pretty well
cradek it was 70F here today
all i use the bridgeport for is tooling... my production os done on the cnc
yea, i'm actually sweating right now, it's hot
if you don't want it then don't buy it?
I managed to save one FDD with PB Blaster but tie magic didn't happen twice :(
pfred1: 65 yesterday, snow today
cradek thats crazy!
basically i'm pretty happy with my mill right now, except for the fact that sometimes it doesnt like to drop back into high gear easily.
but the price is so good, it's hard to pass up
if your head has a problem, that's another good reason
yea, that's the only reason i might do it
the torque alone (for me) is worth it
toastydeath, my mill has a 2 speed 2hp motor, it's usually torquey enough. If it isnt, i just put it in low gear. I havent had to move the belt one since i put the vfd on it
so far my plan to test my BOB out on a junker PC hasn't worked out for me at all
man, i'm torn
aa-danimal-shop: what spindle taper?
I guess that's good if you already have tooling
otherwise it sucks lol
i kinda wish it was a 40 taper
so i can share with the cnc
I bet you'd have to be pretty lucky to find a 40t with the same pull stud
i have a customer who has a nmbt40 spindle on a regular old supermax
my mill is an nmbt40
so it uses a drawbar
so no pull stud
i have a power drawbar on my cnc
my new shop has these bridgeport-branded VMCs that are really nice but i can't find what they run for on ebay
they're 40 taper but the spindle housing looks straight off a 50 taper machine
i guess i dont use the bridgeport enough to really justify it
i just realized i can anodize all my aluminum fixtures so they'll last longer, and i can do it in different colors so it's easier to tell one from the other :)
cradek, have you looked into the DIY anodizing yet?
why wouldn't you just make steel fixtures
most of the failures I've had on aluminum tooling wouldn't have been solved by anodizing
but maybe you are doing other things
because it's important not to mark the parts, they're aluminum
yeah, but why is anodizing going to make your fixtures last longer
are you actually wearing low spots in your fixtures or something?
because they wont wear out as fast
they fit into holes in steel fixtures. they wear out over time
they're caps that locate the parts
that makes more sense
but there isnt much surface contact between the parts and the cap, so a steel cap indents the parts
yeah i've never used a fixture like that but anodizing would seem to make a ton of sense for that
the cap has to be minimal for tool clearance
controlling a laser engraver doing a dotted line - is there a way to turn the laser on and off along a single G0 instead off G0 laser on - laser off repeatedly?
Guest713, not directly afaik, but maybe you can write a subroutine to break it down for you.
* pfred1 is bad at math he doesn't see how 1.99 + 2.99 = 7.58
it may be enought to give out a signal every mm so an external logic can trigger a shot based on the way moved
toastydeath the 1.99 & 2.99 came from the item pages as quoted shipping costs but in the cart shipping is 7.58
YOU'VE BEEN BAMBOOZLED
Guest713: could you use a square-wave generator to feed the laser enable output pin?
guest713, what's the problem with using multiple G0's? (and shouldn't that be using G1's?)
not yet i haven't I didn't actually go through with the transaction yet I am trying to "fix" it
does emc support macros of some kind
what sort of macros?
like, in fanuc, you can call g64 H####, where H is a program number
and then every set of coordinates you feed into the machine are fed to that macro
[22:37:02] <bill2or3> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?SubProgramFiles
You can use M99 an d onwards to call shell scripts in the language of your choice, including halcmd
[22:37:03] <LawrenceG> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?Oword
that's not what i'm talking about
say I write a little program that turns the laser on, moves to a coordinate, then turns it off
so in some other program I call g64 H1 (the program number of the little program)
and now I just can say x2; x3; x4
and the program gets called with those as variables passed to it, each line
and when i want it to stop, just switch into G0, G1, or G80
and the machine resumes normal operation - it's like custom canned cycles
toastydeath: i think o-word calls will do that for you
well I have not tried it out but accelerating, stopping, lasing, accelerating etc. seems just wrong
you want to do that without repeating the subroutine name for each call?
at least when i read the documentation it seems like you'd have to call the sub each line
yeah, that defeats the whole purpose of g64
toastydeath YOU'VE BEEN BAMBOOZLED!
because that kind of thing would fix the laser problem
toastydeath you could always attach the lasers to fricking sharks too you know?
* bill2or3 doesn't see it as a problem, really.
* toastydeath shrug
pfred, but do you have dashed sharks?
bill2or3 a shark will dash when it is being chased by a school of baracuda
bill2or3 its funny to see scared sharks :)
if the laser is going on/off automatically, you'd have to coordinate the timing with the axis's acceleration, too.
unless you want shorted dashes at the ends.
maybe I can't get in on the super saving shipping because I live out in the sticks?
a ha! this is why I buy two items they get combined and weights added and I get disqualified for the saver shipping!
but if you place two orders you're good?
on instructubales Zach build a Laser cutter having a circuit which dims the laser with the machine speed
bill2or3 oddly the saver quote on the item page doesn't quite match the cart page I am checking it now
bill2or3 I swear people are such money grubbing scumbags
I know I am.
ok, not really, but I try.
no wait for some odd reason the parallel port card costs more to ship than a DVD burner
I guess if you put a PCB into a steel box and throw some other mechanicals in there with it suddenly it ships easier?
looking for tapered roller bearings of 16 outer diameter and 8 iner ... anyone know where i can find? :/
a bearing company?
MrSunshine in wheel hubs?
Inches or mm?
MrSunshine check in your neighbors car's wheel hubs maybe he has the size you need
pfred1, they will be like 40mm inner and like 80 outer :P
MrSunshine for the best price try to find a bearing that is commonly used in auto manufacturing though it helps reduce the costs
I suspect they don't go that small.
well, they only ship 2 or 3 parallel cards a week, but 100's of dvd players a day.
skunkworks, cant find anything smaller then 15mm inner and 35 outer
No, smaller than that you would use angular contact ball bearings.
found china-bearings seemst o have miniature tapered bearings
I am not even sure that taper-roller bearings that size make any sense. What's the application?
andypugh, ahh i guess those would work also =)
MrSunshine I haveo ne here is a 19mm inner
andypugh, the guide for the leadscrews on my cnc =)
* DaViruz slaps MrSunshine on the head
Angular contacts, that's what are always used.
i told you 20 minutes ago to use angular contact bearings :P
DaViruz, well i didnt think they looked like that :P
MrSunshine its timken yl900
8mm IS ia a bit of an odd size though, you will end up spending a fair bit.
have c ompany at home here that can take home stuff from skf so gonna check if they have something to spec =)
argh, 10mm as smallest :/
make a bushing
or buy one at like $2
DaViruz, hehe true that =)
Länk till detta dokument: http://www1.elfa.se/elfa~se_sv/go.jsp?s=se-sv&i=54-654-97
but it has 30mm outer, and i cant bore up that big
8mm innner, 10mm outer
no, 8mm inner and 16 outer
is what i want =)
oh bushing :P
but still the angular contact thingie has an outer of 30mm and i just cant go that big
A bushing is fine for the steady-bearing, but I am guessing this is for the thrust bearing?
looks like 8mm 22mm is what they have
andypugh, thrust and angular force or whatever they call it =)
andypugh: as long there is a rim that secures it axially i believe it should be fine?
dunno if i even can go 22 :/
For a ballscrew support? Absolutely not. The bearings used on "real" CNC machines are matched pairs of bearings costing thousands. It is the support bearings that give you all your position accuracy
well, this application has trapezoidal leadscrews and steppers
its not ballscrew its trapetzoid or whatever its called =)
its not realy a high precision machine :)
it's like acne, only longer
MrSunshine though if its metric I believe they call theirs trapeziodal
I still wouldn't use a bushing, but you will probably find that a pair of conventional ball bearings with a shim between the inner races will work.
andypugh: "I pulled some plastic bearings from a Tonka Truck, they should be accurate to 0.00000000001mm"
i was talking about using a bushing to fit an 8mm shaft in a 10mm ID bearing
not using it as a bearing
Can you machine the shaft? the small angular contact bearings are odd-mm sizes (5,7,9)
andypugh, well i dont realy want to machine it more then i have :/
have had alot of trouble with them
fixed em up yesterday :)
I went through a very similar process trying to find bearings for my Y-axis. Unfortunately I can't remember the solution I found.
I love people who make lathes outta spaggeti and gear up steppers to 1 micron resolution
and proudly proclaim thier spaggetimill has 1 micron accuracy
err mills outta speggeti I mean
BlackMoon: Mine has 0.00000001micron biotch!
mine has 0.000000009
BlackMoon my MDF mill will be more accurate than even Jymmm's
Mine is a real mill and iv seen the table rotate a few mills just to the slack in the gibs
(when giving the table a good push that is)
really is annoying trying to dial in the vise unless I lock down the Y axis
mines made out of sticks and stone and is run manually
pfred1: Mines made out of 50% post consumer corrugated cardboard ya whore!
it will be like.. ok 0..0...0.... 5 mils wtf? oh the table shifted
Jymmm that is basically what MDF is
gotta dial it in without pushing too hard on the crank -_-
BlackMoon or just get some surface grinders
pfred1: No density about it, I said CORRUGATED!
ok, looking through http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63621&page=2
I find I used 7200 bearings. Those are 10x30 so no good to you.
pfred1: nah its just cause I leave the gibs a little loose cause im not a fan of cranking that thing any harder then needed :p
if accuracy is ever a consern I lock the other axises anyway
BlackMoon I have to do that to reduce chatter often
BlackMoon chainsaw bar oil is the snizzle for lubing up the ways!
BlackMoon it sticks where you paint it on
lube? who uses lube?
8x16 taper roller or even angular contact == does not exist. Two conventional deep-groove ball bearings preloaded against each other will probably work, but will be a little flimsy.
atm i have axial bearings only
What sort of axial bearings?
or whatever they are called
taking force from the axels direction insted of the side of the axel
radial bearings you mean?
screw it get a set of hydraulic bearings
thrust bearings maybe is the name =)
of the ones i have
[23:19:04] <andypugh> http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/thrust_choice.php
just two flat pieces with a ring of balls i the middle of them
Ah, in that case, all you need is a perfectly normal ball bearing.
And maybe not even that.
atm the axel goes throught a hole in the middle that is 8mm
and the axel is 8mm
for forces to the sides
i want that part gone =) replaced with rolling stuff
and they make those in very tiny sizes, I have 3mm-shaft-size bearings.
MrSunshine sounds like my bench mill
so figured changing it for axial contact bearings would be neat, then i dont need to rebore everything
If you only have 2 thrust washers and 1 set of balls you only have half a bearing
andypugh, huh ?
its |---| where the | is the thrust bearings and the --- is just a bored hole thorught the mount thingie
this is when IRC gets interesting
Normally you would have a middle washer rigidly connected to the shaft, with a ball race each side, then the outer washers snugged up in the outer housing.
andypugh a shoulder?
once upon a time you could search ebay for thk ball screw if you wanted a thk ball screw
Lots of ways of doing it. All hard to describe.
now every bastard puts thk in the title of his auction for cheap rolled ball screws
DaViruz some THKs are even cheap rolled screws!
MrSunshine: You sort of need to draw out a cross-section of the bearing arrangment and see what can move in what direction.
so true, DaViruz
DaViruz I was lubing up some floppy disk drives over here and marveling at the ballscrews in them
But the simplest would be to take the single-direction ball thrust bearing out (keep it though) and then put in a pair of conventional deep-groove ball bearings. You need to clamp the outer races hard together in the housing, and the inner races hard together against a shoulder on the leadscrew. Measure the end-float with a dial indicator, then put a shim washer (probably cut from your least-favourite set of feeler gauges) b
the inner races and reassemble.
yeah I wish those tiny floppy steppers would move without the external thrust bearing
lubing floppy drives?!
so they'll slide better through the trash chute? ;)
DaViruz I hadn't used any floppy drive in so long all the grease in them had all siezed up on me
DaViruz i sort of want to setup an ancient PC over here so I can test my homemade port buffer board out on it
DaViruz but that machine is so old it doesn't even support boot off CD-ROM so floppy boot is the only way to go
(For some reason that I am not clear on, the bit of my old mechanical design job I liked the most was the bearing arrangements, I came up with some lovely inside-out arrangments for brake testers
DaViruz some PB Blaster spray brushed into strategic locations in some of the drives i have here really made a difference
justin__ is now known as JustinXJS
Ooh! Almost! http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Bearings-.-Needle+Roller+NX+NKX+&+NKXR+Types/c3_4474_4489/p8989/NKX10TN+Needle+Roller+Thrust+Ball+Bearing+Without+Cover+10x19x23mm./product_info.html
Anyone know where to get a gullitone blade sharpened?
Unfortunately that beatufully compact combination bearing is single-direction thrust only
What sort of Guillotine?
about 3/8" thick, 14" long
[23:39:34] <tlab> http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0HMU/is_12_30/ai_111164237/
Tech Mark of North Little Rock, Ark., announces expanded sharpening services for MORSO brand blades. Additionally, Tech Mark will now sharpen non-MORSO brand guillotine blades as well as side knives and nose knives for the MORSO FC and MORSO NF notching machines.
maybe 1/2" thick
I would do it with emery paper then an oilstone, i think. Or perhaps an angle grinder, then emery paper, then oilstone.
the shipping alone is gonna kill me
[23:40:51] <tlab> http://revro.com/guillotine-blade-sharpening-fitting/388
But it might be as simple as putting it on a surface grinde and making it a 0.45" thick blade
no surface grinder
we sharpen those at work all the time
VernonM: GREAT! Stop by and sharpen mine =)
not a surface grinder, the wheel spins on a vertical axis
and the blade is stuck on a long magnetic chuck that's rotatable along it's long axis for angle.
I just got a glorified paper cutter - can you say HEAVY!!!!
haha no I'm not carrying that sharpener :)
yeah I bet it is heavy. just the blades are heavy.
[23:43:58] <Jymmm> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/zip/1651611189.html
andypugh just running them on a grinder is often enough
I unbolted it from the table, STILL heavy!
Jymmm doesn't the blade screw off?
yeah with 20 screws haha
big countersunk bolts
yeah we do 'em all the time for bookbinders and such.
scary sharp heavy thing haha
VernonM do you unscrew the blades or sharpen the blade attached to the arm?
[23:46:34] <frallzor> http://pici.se/p/large/MByrBihgC/
guess which one is the good one :P
[23:46:38] <Jymmm> http://i42.tinypic.com/1zpifir.jpg
just the blades
oh a tiny one!
VernonM: Yeah, I used to use the hydralic ones, fsck me!
I was thinking 8 foot
like that :D
those look like two different kinds of taps
VernonM: That "tiny one" is still about 130 lbs
toastydeath nope, same =)
we have a couple of paper guillotines at work
I bet, it looks solid
i'm pretty sure they can cut you in half in a split second
i mean one clearly has a very steep taper
it looks like a plug tap and a standard tap
not two standard taps
they are =)
thats why one suck
lol, the one on the bottom is a plug tap
VernonM: Well, it was free. Just had to take a 70 miles road trip =)
toastydeath what is a plug tap then?
It can't cut acrylic, sorta PVC, does do 1" thick of paper though =)
but that might be becasue the blade is dull - they said so in the ad
frallzor, it's a tap that has 4-5 half-formed teeth
standard is 7-10 teeth, and bottoming is 1-2 teeth
and what does it mean? :P
standardtapp, muttertapp, bottentapp respectively in swedish
You start with the taper, then use the second, then the bottoming tap.
frallzor means it'll cut thread to the bottom of a blind hole
not to the bottom of a blind hole, but closer than a standard
andypugh yesit means that too
(Actually, I have no idea what the second tap is really for, but use it religiously anyway)
they're just for different amounts of chip clearance in blind holes
andypugh: The Eternal Life Church of Bridgeport?
well the second tap sucks
if you have a lot of extra drill depth you don't have to use a bottoming tap
but even with a bunch of drill clearance standard taps have a hard time getting any fully formed teeth in a lot of parts
since its like allmost impossible to get it to grip by hand
Well, for hand-tapping the taper tap is better at self-aligning and each tooth takes a bit more cut, so they stay sharp longer.
frallzor the top one is no great shakes either it is showing bright dull spots
yep, plug taps are usually machine driven
andypugh: The First Bridgeport Community Church
pfred1 no it isnt :)
I almost always drive plug and bottoming taps on a knee mill
they don't start well at all
form taps are even worse
but they'll hit the bottom of any hole no problem
haha yeah I wouldn't want to try a form tap in a non-CNC application.
I did on aluminum before in a manual lathe
I used them plenty in alu by hand
I tried hand-tapping a form tap once, it was an exciting venture and it came to its conclusion with me at the tap burner
it wasent too bad
I can imagine.
What's a Denford Triac worth?
because one of my jerk co-workers decided he didn't want to put the tap in on the machine, for some reason
yeah there's a lathe guy at work like that
brings me parts all the time drilled on the end but not tapped
come ON man.
lol what, it's so easy on a lathe why wouldn't you do it
yeah I don't know.
here sometimes the tap breaks and its not noticed till 10+ parts are made
what is currently ticking me off is that this new place doesn't have the machine break any of their edges
ugh, and ugh.
which is the first thing I'm going to change after they show me their cam system
What the heck is this machine?
[23:59:54] <andypugh> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Horizontal-Milling-Machine-Beichle_W0QQitemZ320504359008
yeah if you're walking arond a part, fix those edges on the finish pass!