did they give any info like teeth # or pitch?
clytle374: used a couple: Lenze, Stoeber, ..
i didnt see anything
I suspect the names aren't familiar for you.. mostly german brands
no but I could count the new one for the Z when it comes in... it is the same as the X
i figured they wouldnt do that because then noone would buy their $30 belts when you can buy the same one for $4 lol
it's 1" wide
I've seen them, but can't place them.. Where are you at was going to be the next question.
ah ok, mine are 3/4" wide
[00:01:44] <alex_joni> http://www.lenze.com/lenze.com_en_active/020_Products/020_Servo_drives/010_Servo_Umrichter/020_Servo_System_ECS/Produkt_ECS_Servosytem.com.jsp?cid=0b0164e08009090b
I think I saw them on a highspeed mold detailing machine.
Quality usually isn't.
Us Americans aren't generally smart enough to buy things that last anymore.
I'm sure my customers would buy cheaper stuff given the chance
luckily they don't have to chose
anyways.. off to bed for me (2am)
hello people. If I wanted to perform a G4 dwell. Is it accurate down to the milliseconds? Could I do: "G4 P0.0002" ?
I doubt it
i'm pretty excited, my new process and fixtures for making chainrings worked awesome
cool, got any photos?
it's nice having the lathe, it saves me a ton of time
no pics yet
mine eats up a ton of my time
the main part of the lathe fixture is just a 7.5" face plate i made
you have an A2-5 mount?
there's arbors and caps that hold the chainring to the faceplate, locating on a close tollerance 1" hole in the center
no, i have the hardinge 4" taper
4 degree taper*
like the old toolroom lathes and whatnot
short nose mount?
yea, it's pretty short
I bet it is an A2-5 like mine
got about a 4 degree taper, and a t shaped groove in it which a pin slides in
no, not like mine then
this is a hardinge proprietary design
usually only seen on manual lathes
i have an odd one
the chuckers usually have a threaded spindle nose
I guess you could get anything you want when you buy it new :)
granted i didnt buy it new, so i got stuck with this
would anyone have a suggestion for how I could execute a G code for a very short duration of time, something in the millisecond range?
owhite: what are you trying to do?
well. I run a laser, I start the laser using gcode M64 P2 and shut it off with M65 P2.
and I'd like to do....M64 P2; G4 P.002; M65 P2;
the purpose is that I need a pulse of the laser in order to do some testing.
what part of the world are you located?
look for migte in the AM is from Europe and does lasers
I might have spelled his nick wrong
Probably have to build or interface a pulse generator
one second I'll jump in the wayback machine and get the correct nick
yeah I was hoping to have a quick solution.
How accurate do you need to be?
this test I got to run is sort of one time thing.
micges_work and micges
dang did I guess wrong on micges nick
your just wanting to pulse the laser for a short duration
on ...20 millisec....off.
how about a m64 g0 x0.00001 then m65 on next line
Can stepgen run that tight?
* JT-Hardinge goes back to ladder logic
well maybe one too many zeros
yay for G64 P###
woohooo!! the new process gets rid of the pain in the ass burr i had before. this will save me about 5 minutes each part!
your having too much fun Dan
JT-Hardinge, it's a big deal to me. these are parts i make day in and day out.
aa-danimal-shop everytime you say day in day out I want to hear this song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRnWYALFPCw
if Ian wouldn't have killed himself you'd have never heard of U2 and a few other bands
ugh, i dislike U2
well JD was a LOT better but alas once Ian died it was no more
bono is a douche
I'm sure fame ruined him sruff can go to ones head
JT-Hardinge, once i finish my quick change pallet system, i'll snap some pics
* pfred1 fritters away some time in http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=747620#post747620
I'm starting to feel it I think I'm really starting to feel it over here http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/9582/ppbbr4brd.png
aa-danimal-shop well whenever I design something eventually I just get this overwhelming urge to have it then I make it
aa-danimal-shop andi have to say it is coming on strong for me now
this buffer is bad assed!
I tweaked a few things one cannot start the build too soon
1Kohm @ 33V = 1 amp and 33 watts.
DaViruz what do you think it is?
i'll have to read the rest of the thread before i make an ass out of myself
last i checked 33^2/1000 = 1.089
that is the formula for power yes
DaViruz guy used a bleeder on a cap 1K ohm
which gives you 1.089W
DaViruz but it was only a 20 watt resistor
which is way overkill since it only puts out 1W
whats 1 times 33?
current is not 1
why isn't it?
current is voltage/resistance
DaViruz try squaring the v
no, that will not give me current
that will give me power
power = v*v*i
current = v*i
ack! I used the wrong formula my bad
DaViruz thanks for catching that I thought the resistor looked beefy but it didn't add up
wow, what i just typed is totally wrong too ;)
as it turns out
i get confused when not using si variables
DaViruz really what i do is put an LED and dropepr there so I can watch it glow down
DaViruz and it doesn't take that long to bleed off
and you don't toss away all sorts of your supplies power doing it either
power = V*V/R, current = V/R, is what i intended to say
DaViruz I mean this guy has a marginal supply so I figured why waste more of what he doesn't have?
yeah that's true
he has 270 oz/in bipolar steppers and it sounds like he's getting 50 IPM on 10 TPI
now either he bent those leads like pretzens when he built his machine or there is something else going wrong
and i know when I started messing wiht steppers power supply was an issue
steppers just don't peform well unless you give them all the power they want
hell even my big stepper machine can do over 120ipm
i can even get 150ipm out of it, but it stalls if i really abuse it
270 oz/in bipolars should really move a router
sounds like the guy ripped a power supply out of an old printer and used it sort of as is
mine are nema 43 1350oz/in, they're slow as hell in comparison
lol i saw that
and there was some extra circuitry going on
get rid of it!
go with the basics unless you know what you're doing and have a damned good reason for doing so too
trans bridge filter and go
i dont know crap, so i stuck with the PS that was in my machines
well if something works don't fix it
but if it don't toss all the extra junk
i tossed 780lbs of antique controller lol
thats basic problem solving 101 simplify
break something down into managable components and go from there
aa-danimal-shop: OK Dan can't wait to see them
reduce your variables
JT-Hardinge, i might patent it
[02:11:37] <pfred1> http://www.tinaja.com/patnt01.asp
my man Don doesn't believe in patents
nor web design, apparantly ;)
this one sounds entertaining: http://www.tinaja.com/glib/patnthor.pdf
DaViruz hey don't crack on Don he wrote the TTL Cook book!
i'm pretty sceptical towards patents myself to tell the truth
DaViruz it sounds like Don got burned a few times by the practice and has become a lifelong advocate against them
these days with China I mean why bother?
yeah i got that impression as well :)
you're a national hero over there if you steal something and produce it
submiting a patent just makes their life easier
DaViruz html isn't Don's thing too bad the web isn't postscript?
well, it's the colors and the cloudy background that got me
the overall layout was nice enough
I've never known his site to change in appearance since the mid 90s
yeah it had a mid-ninetys-feel to it :)
his big thing seems to be magic sinewaves not that i understand what he's talking about with them
[02:30:26] <pfred1> http://www.tinaja.com/magsn01.asp
but he's very pumped about them whatever they are
should i ask Don a magic sinewaves question? like can I make a stepper motor driver with them or something?
yes but it will only work with magic steppers
hmm seems Don likes 3 phase stepper motors
damn Don was into the LMD18245 back in 1996
make that 1995 http://www.tinaja.com/glib/muse93.pdf
i need a drive for a dc spindle motor
dmz_ your needs are not immodest
or rather not modest I should say!
7.5hp will cut some cheese
dmz_ steal one out of one of these: http://www.metaefficient.com/wp-content/uploads/tesla-electric-car.jpg
dmz_ they're all dead now so no one will miss any
I swear spam gets weirder by the day doesn't it?
I'm almost tempted to open this one up but I fear its not what I think it is ---> Grow tomatoes as big as grapefruits
i bought a mill off ebay with fanuc controls and the spindle drive was missing
it was big, had a whole box about 2ft x 3ft to itself
dmz_ if you hurry maybe you can find that auction too!
fleabay the Internet scam artist magnet site
i dont know the part number plus it connects to ancient 1979 fanuc controls..
i was hoping to put it on emc
dmz_ can't just forget about the speed control for now and simply run the motor?
its a dc permanent magnet motor
dmz_ I think the operative word is motor as in anything that spins will do
a battery charger will spin it, barely tho
how many volts does it operate at?
seriously why not scrap the motor and put in an AC motor with a VFD like everyone seems to use today?
not sure, its way up in the air, havent climbed up and looked
i think the ammeter goes up to 150a
looked at the nameplate
that might be cheaper plus im sure i could run it faster, its limited to 3k rpm now
if it worked it would be anyway
doesnt dc have more torque?
at low speed I think
i bet a dc motor would be better
it'd cost you a mint to make a controller for that motor
it'd probably be similar to a dc servo drive, right?
aa-danimal-shop I doubt they give them away to everyone who walks through the door and bats their eyes either!
i have the hp/rpm curve for a smaller one, it can put out 3hp at 100rpm
so the motor is direct drive to the spindle?
just look for a big servo amp... i've seen them for relatively cheap
no it has 2 gears
whats 1 HP 750 watts?
at 220V its still 25.5 amps!
[03:26:13] <aa-danimal-shop> http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/sub/search_results.aspx?k=1&searchKeyword=aplifier&searchCategory=&sortExpression=&sortASC=&pageSize=&searchMethod=keyword
dmz_ at least you have a nice big project case to put your motor driver in sounds like you're going to need it too
they got lots of crap
dmz_ I think I found your missing motor drive: http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/sub/product_detail.aspx?id=14-117-337&searchtable=1&sortExpression=&SortASC=&pageSize=50¤tPageIndex=0&searchNAP=
aa-danimal-shop they appear to love money too
that place is cheap
cheaper than ebay for sure
dmz_ I donno checked their ebay page out?
[03:33:51] <pfred1> http://stores.ebay.com/hgrauctions__W0QQ_pgnZ4Q3frefidQ3dstoreQQ_sacatZhgrauctionsQ5fQ5fW0Q51Q51Q5farmrsQ5A1QQ_sidZ831677214QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14
1 SET THK SSR25XW3SSE+1170LK LINEAR RAIL ASSEMBLIES,NEW Starting bid:US $3.99
i was just looking at that
not a set tho
2 look the same, the rest oddball
NEW IN BOX, QUANTITY 1 SET TWO RAILS SIX BEARINGS, RAILS SIZE 1170mm LONG, 23mm WIDE, 18mm THICK
almost 4 foot
Trying to get the spindle index pulse working is kicking my butt.
I can see it working on the breakout board and in HALmeter, but the example g33 program just sits there waiting for an index pulse.
the mill i have that needs the spindle drive has about 40" x travel 20"y 20"z
I think the longest i can continiously mill on my machine is 13 1/2"
in X of course
getting thse sure would simplify my machine build
a pair of rails usually has 1 edge/lip for 1 rail to butt up against, the 2nd rail can just be on a flat surface the 1st rail is held straight by the edge, the 2nd will follow 1st..
and that lip is difficult for hobbyists to machine (40" straight)
tom3p you're saying there's a lip on one rail?
theres a lip on the surface where the rails mount. one rail butts up lengthwise along the lip. that makes 1 rail straight
on the bottom?
its only 2mm or so high, and many many pusher blocks push the rail up against it
bottom? its on the machine bed that the rail bolts to
so there is no lip on the rail?
correct, see page 12 here http://www.nookindustries.com/pdf/NookProfileRail.pdf
the lip is often ground, and the inside corner in relieved. tho i disagree with the picture ( i'd only have the lip on 1 rail )
and the cheap trick for the pusher blocks ( expensive ) is to use a taper headed machine screw and a dowel pin. as the screw bears, the dowel pin inder the tapered head pushed into the rail, up against the lip
the normal mounting bolts hold the rail down, the tapered head screws & the lip make the long wiggly rail straight
anything 1" cross section and 40" long is wiggly ;)
ah, page 17 shows how the lip is used with pushers
well I could probably make it a little less wiggly than the MDF and roller skate bearings I'm going to use
you can just mount it w/o the rail and get a lot of benefit ( sorry lost prespective )
but I'm not going to buy them anyways maybe a few machines down the road? I am watching the auction though curious to see what they go off for
w/o the lip
something tells me they'll go up from the $3.99 opening
watch to see the final price
i just spent a whole day removing the rail, bearings and leadscrews from a machine that was going to scrap. i want going to let that stuff get trashed
what I'd so is make the table screw down one side and move the table down and screw the rails down as I go
and i aint gonna sell a whole day for a couple bucks
nail 1 rail down, check as best you can that it's straight, then loose mount the 2nd rail and make it parallel, nail it down
you can make parallel by mounting an indicator to a bearing block on rail1 touching rail2
yeah that'd be a good way to go too
Does anyone know where there are screenshots of the "Touchy" interface on the web?
make one straight and truck an indicator down the other one
making rail1 straight is the trick... mount the indicator from a bearing block ON rail1 TO another bearing block on rail1. move the pair along the length, any deviation means a bend
well all I need to do now is make my parts list http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/9582/ppbbr4brd.png
nice pic, what program is that?
tom3p I snipped a parallel port wire that goes on a PC going to wire it direct
Eagle with the colored option
ah, a pigtail, and I didnt know eagle made such nice output, thx
I was going to use the 26 pin double header but I figured why bother?
just another connector to worry about
I'm thinking for strain relief I'll slot the perfboard and slide the ribbon cable through it
maybe hot glue it
in years of servicing machines, the connections ranks as problem #1. less connections is good. a couple holes and a tie wrap is cheap to do on a pcb
yeah why put another one on I don't need?
ribbon already has more than enough wire
its a toss between being able to isolate a problem ( disconnect ) or make a problem ( have two mating lines )
well I'll still be able to unplug the female DB-25
cradek: Is there a write up on the Touchy interface anywhere on the web? I thought there was something on the Wiki, but I couldn't find anything with a search.
hmm - were does the red wire go? http://www.electronicsam.com/images/KandT/conversion/ratsnest.JPG
more specifically what kind of write up?
but the riser out of PCs is DB-25 to a 26 pin double header
how to set it up? how to use it?
pretty screen shots?
heh, good thing you won't need most of them! ... I hope
cradek most people shouldn't be let anywhere near wires!
I had a car like that once i gutted the whole harness and started from scratch
* pfred1 likes the original green paint color better than the blue ....
cradek: yes - most of them.. Expecially if we get the accupins working
I hope you can do that
that will be phase II ;)
skunkworks what was wrong with the institutional green the machine was painted it is so soothing?
blue is jarring
skunkworks: is that on a matsuura?
[06:24:15] <dmz_> http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/sub/product_detail.aspx?id=30-955-001&searchtable=1&sortExpression=&SortASC=&pageSize=50¤tPageIndex=3&searchNAP=true
$999 for a fanuc robot?
dmz_ just imagine what its missing!
yea machine moving company on each end plus truck shipping
then parts on top of that
Hi Folks, I'm having a problem, and hoping one of you may be able to offer me some advice.
I'm running a G code file, and everything seems to be going along just fine
Then midway through an op, it seems to just randomly loose it's place.
The cutter is offsetting a couple inches aways from where it should be.
The same problem hapened twice with the same file, and occurred at the same location.
The onscreen display shows the cutter where it is supposed to be, but it is actually offset by a couple inches
nmen is now known as numen
Anything I should look for that might explain such a problem?
Here's the entire gcode file: http://pastebin.com/9FbAMLUu
The error is happening midway through the third 2 1/2 axis facing op, which starts at line N1168
biab... Gonna go run it again and see if I can note more accurately where the problem is occuring.
nmen is now known as numen
Ok, well as you probably could have predicted, it worked perfectly that time.
Only difference is I rebooted between runs.
nmen is now known as numen
sweet. 2 broken 500mhz pc, but one revived 1.2 athlon w 512MB. liveCD now works :)
now I just need to rig a standby switch to the ATX psu, and fashion a high amp ribbon cable for the Z motor out of mains flex and duct tape, and I'm ready for testing
nmen is now known as numen
emc on 500mhz sucks
well, livecd ubuntu emc at least
how much ram?
you need at least 256MB minimum for LiveCD
oh btw if any of you guys want DDR or SDRAM lemme know I've got a box of the stuff, just depends on shipping.
does anyone have sdram 256 or 512mb with only 4chips?
cradek: Hi.... Just an introduction, how it works, screen shots etc. I saw a write up but it didn't show any screen shots ..
If you have a Fanuc robot like that, that thing would probably be worth it just for the parts.... I wonder if they will power it up where it is to see how functional it is... As I recall their loading fees are very reasonable.
numen I doubt it. 512MB was a lot for sdram, I think mine is 16 chips
but it should be posssible to get with 4 chips
this would be 64mx16 chips
I doubt they actually make it anymore, it'll be all old stock
bleh, no trace of a hal file for my HY-TB4DV-M driver
who do I send it to when I've written it? these boards are all over ebay
it needs a proper English manual writing too :)
MattyMatt, might find an old guy in England that can still do proper English;)
the_Lamb is now known as robotito
MattyMatt: what is it?
sounds like a 4 axis stepper control board
i have one of those
MattyMatt: the stepconf makes it work perfectly
MattyMatt: all you need to care about is the pinout and the dip switches, the english is easy enough there
oh, and amp-enable
MattyMatt: if you have issues yell at me when im around, out and about for a bit now.
don't you just hate it when you do a bunch of ladder and forget to save it :/
cradek warned me about that...
save early, save often.
good thing is it has only been a few minutes since I did that so I just might remember what I did :)
my lesson from 1980 or so, I always remember
save early, save often, and make a lot of backups
yeah, saving crap on top of your working copy isn't so hot
JT-Hardinge: you could just use git ;)
no git interface to the ladder editor?
I don't git it.
I have enough trouble with git :P
JT-Hardinge: you seem to do just fine :)
once I get all my little helpers setup I'm ok LOL
SWEET! My Turret works and I only forgot to save it like 11 times :/
and Axis correctly warns me if I try and load a tool not in my tool table :)
not much left to sort out before making some chips :)
[17:11:49] <skunkworks_> http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/conversion/ratsnest.JPG
[17:11:53] <skunkworks_> http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/conversion/Morerats.JPG
good evening from germany
* JT-Hardinge needs to finish hooking up the E-Stop chain before I forget :/
nmen is now known as numne
numne is now known as numen
seems like there would be more reprap extruders for sale
[17:58:50] <Jymmm> http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704655004575113872190094934.html?mod=WSJ_hpp_RIGHTTopCarousel#articleTabs%3Dcomments
you'd think BOA has better things to do than secure a house that wasn't in default
[18:44:26] <Jymmm> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1640788933.html
[18:45:12] <Jymmm> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1640632882.html
JT-Hardinge, how's it going?
Jymmm, both overpriced
i paid $400 for that same grinder
granted mine doesnt have the dro, but IMO that's useless on a manual grinder.
dro on a surface grinder?
i can *kinda* see it on an automatic unit
but really, on a manual? it's not like you're feeding all that fast in the y axis. not too hard to keep an eye on the dial
Danimal-office: good I have the turret going
did you have to adjust the magnet at all?
did you use the hal component for the turret, or did you do it in ladder?
I did the ladder like I normally do plc ladder
I haven't tried the comp yet
if it aint broke, dont fix it lol
so you basically have a working machine, now huh?
do you have a chuck or collets for it, and the tool holders?
btw, does yours use oil or water solulable coolant?
some odds and ends to go like the e-stop chain, the pressure switches, mount the monitor and keyboard clean this mess up etc
I don't have a clue :)
there is a copy of my ladder on the forum if you want to take a gander at it
I have to run so talk to you later
ok cool thanks
cradek, what do you think it would take to get our machines water-solulable coolant worthy?
better sealing on the compartments for the turret and resolver/tach stuff?
brb, gotta restart this pc
Danimal-office: no idea. I think the oil is needed for the Z slidey parts.
it doesnt have a lube system for z?
yeah but I think the water would wash it all off
doesnt seem to wash it off the mill's ways
Do they have wipers?
you have coolant running over your mill's ways?
not intentionally, but it usually leaks some on there
and all over the rest of the garage
that'd make me nervous :-)
eh, they're prettyoverbuilt chromed box ways
Rig up some covers, it should be good. Cutting oil in there isn't good either, unless you don't recirculate it.
yea i could put on some bellows
although the coolant eats those too lol
it's just that the oil smokes up too much
With good wipers, rust and parts hitting the ways will be your biggest concerns.
my parts are kinda big
it does seem to have pretty good wipers
and not any areas for it to sit and pool up
roll up covers can work okay too.
depending on the machine obviously
it may kill the lathe prematurely, but if it's used enough to wear it out, that means ii got my money's worth
ways are perfect right now, so i got a few years lol
What about the screws and thrust bearings?
sealed up good
Oil was often used because coolants used to suck soo bad
i'm pretty sure the chnc's use water solulable coolant, and it's basically the same machine
I've seen lots of cnc lathes with exposed ways run coolant.
yea, i was thinking the warning label is on there because water solulable stuff wasnt so hot in the 70's
there is a warning?
I wonder if there is a dye you could add to be sure it doesn't get in the headstock
never seen a specific warning before
coolant in the headstock is real bad
it says oil based cutting fluids reccomended for extended machine life
doesnt say DO NOT USE WATER SOLULABLE COOLANT!!!!1!!11!
oh, okay. Use good coolant! cheap stuff sucks
is what i've always used
and check the headstock to be sure it isn't getting in there, can be real bad news.
smurf piss is quality
yea, expensive though. takes a lot of little blue guys to make up 5 gallons of it
Smell like play-dough
ha never noticed
know where to get a cutter of gt2-2mm timing pulleys?
I can't get the pulleys I need.
Had to change belt types since I found out the MXL belts are marginal at best
more complicated profile.
yea, sorry, i dont have a clue on that stuff
seldom hurts to ask.
numne is now known as numen
Howdy all. Got a quick question on step config and micro stepping. Geting started guide says to use the value 2 for half stepping. I've got my stepper drives (Keling 4030) set to 1/64 micro stepping. Does that mean I plug in the value of 64 in the "Driver Micro Stepping" box?
yeah I think so
but if you want to go very fast, it might be better to set them to 4 or 8 or so
with this setting it takes 12800 step pulses to turn the motor one revolution - that's a lot of pulses and it will really limit your top speed.
Okay, I'm not sure what speed I'll really end up with, but I'll start it at 1/8 microstep on the drivers first. Thanks!
Also, I'm using a rack and pinion setup on the X axis, with a reduction of 3:1 from the stepper to the pinion. My mind seems to be brain dead this afternoon when it comes to math. The setup is supposed to give me 1.0472" per revolution. How do I convert that to revolutions per inch for the leadscrew pitch?
Do I dived 1 by 1.0472?
Oops, that should be divide, not dived...
dang caps lock key
Guest459: pay attention to the scale number and make sure that matches what you calculate
scale being the number of pulses to move one user unit
clytle374, they are hobbed so ask a hob manufacturer
anyone here who has some sdram he dont needs?
i have some ram, not sure if it's sdram, but it isnt ddr
came out of a p3
Danimal-office should be sdram if it was used with p3
could you give me the chip numbers?
cause i need 32M x16 chips
not sure what i'm looking for
what chip number?
i'm not a computer guy
the number which is printed on the top of the chip
one says 16mx72
[20:42:23] <numen> http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/32/NSLU2_board_front.jpg
here you have the chips, the black ones next to the batterie, i need the number which is printed on the chip with white color
mhm these are 4bit chips...
this dimm uses 16chips right?
18 for that one
right, this is an reg ecc dim?
hyb39s128800ct-7.5 for the second one...9 chips
i need min 16Mx16
and k4s280432d-tc75 for the third...18 chips
thats all i got
if out of a P3 it's PC133 (or less likely PC100)
none is right, thx for have a look at it
i need for my nslu2
which needs 16bit chips
16x72 wont work?
one says 16x72 sdram
Danimal-office i dont need the whole bank, just 2 single chips of it
but these chips have to be 16bit and the ones you gave me are 4 or 8bit
i dunno, one has a sticker right on it that says 16mx72
yes, but the sticker is for the whole dimm
the nslu2 just use 2 of these 18 chips^^
that one yas 9
but i gotcha
it should just have 4 or 5chips
but not shure
it has 9
i can count to at least 10, so i know it has 9 :)
numen, if you're going to be around a while, I'll go take a look in the barn.
would be great
what do you mean with a while? here its 10pm^^
it's 1pm here
I'm eating and it's pouring rain, ?
it's 10am where he is
i think.. or 11am
[21:02:30] <frallzor> http://www.vimeo.com/10096415
tadaaa my workplace :P
opps yea the other way around.
3 hours ahead
how quickly i forget
clytle374 where are u from?
are these worth international shipping to yoy?
frallzor, looks good!
2/3 of 1/4 of all holes drilled now :P
aka 2/12 :P
40 down, 200 to go
damn lotta holes
lotta holes *strokes the shotgun and lights a pipe*
* frallzor is playing redneck
pipe is out'a place
cooks some meth?
fondles an infant wife maybe? :P
thanks for the replies earlier, guys. I had a nap
it's stepconf time
skunkworks_, just trash at that point
numen, sorry nothing but 8 and 16 chip sticks in the pc100 flavor
frallzor, infant wife is limited to other countries.
they don't know the law if they're infants
chain em to the cellar
numen, even looked through the table leg shims or target practice box. I have some old 486 memory though, big 8meg sticks.
I've got piles of 64MB pc133/100
clytle374 8chip could work, if they are duble sided
they're the ones I collected after going round all my friends with the better ones I had :p
numen, no single sided.
MattyMatt only chips or complete dimms?
clytle374 do you have chip number?
complete dimms. all 8 or 16 chip
MattyMatt 64mb are too small, these chips are allready soldred... need min 128mb dimm, better 256 or 512mb..
I really don't think you'll find many 4 chip pre-ddr. it's too old
MattyMatt these are possible to get, but not often used, cause they were expensive this time
clytle374 these are both 8bit chips
MattyMatt there exist 64M x16 chips such as 46cl64m16a2
my DS cart has a 32MB 16 bit chip in
but if you buy single chips they cost about 70$ each
nintendo devkit. they're about $20 now
two of these chips would be nice^^
numen, are you upgrading the board picuted earlier?
clytle374 yes, this is the mainboard of a nslu2
sadly I don't know what that is.
nslu is something like a nas, but needs with usb connected memory device and is possible to run with debian
lacks wifi though
that's easily added
through usb dongle if no other way
MattyMatt: yeah probably
I still prefer my asus wl-520gU
I get cards with Realtek chips, because they are the only ones that can do Nintendo's bastardised version of the spec (generally known as nifi)
I still think DS would make a good machine controller :) they're all the same so finite latency, and it has a touch screen
you can even buy a thingy with fpga and 50 I/O lines
that's $200 tho
and nintendo's would come choice of in 5 colors and 4 decorative graphics.
they're quite tough for consumer goods. small screens are inherently less fragile
smaller target area at least :)
the new DSi lacks the gba slot though, so that would limit you to old ones in practice
although you can buy an I/O card with ~12 lines for the new slot
I would think the opas slot would more than make up for the lack of the sie write back.
* skunkworks_ is just making things up...
ok :) point taken. I'm the only toymaker here
MattyMatt what kinds of toys do you make?
no big iron here until I get my own workshop
MattyMatt oh you mean small format CNC?
video games, and I'm planning to make robots
and small format CNC :)
MattyMatt thats what I call my CNC project sometimes too
well I did the reverse art for my parallel port board
this is going to be easy to assemble I think
MattyMatt what'd you do for a parallel port break out board?
damn no isa slot on my emc machine
MattyMatt you want to use PCI anyways I think
I have a VLB io card :p
some PCI IO expansion cards are as little as $7
good night all
though I only found recomendation for one particular board chip so far
and the board i found said chip on isn'texactly the cheapest IO card I've seen
it was $29
which lead me to register at linuxcnc and ask a FAQ question there
2 port one on ebay :) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PCI-PARALLEL-PRINTER-2-PORT-CARD-SUPPORT-VISTA-FREE-S-H_W0QQitemZ110499638575QQcmdZViewItem
Does anyone know how to identify the tooth-profile of an unidentified timing pulley? (so I can get a matching belt..)
bill2or3 I've read enough about timing belts to know that I don't know much about them or that there's a lot to them take your pick
heh. I guess I just look really closely, and make a best guess, huh?
bill2or3 there are detailed documents about timing belts
like 150+ pages long
and from looking at them I figure there's 3 major kinds
two with trapezoidal profiles and one with a round lock
bill2or3 are the teeth basically square looking?
* bill2or3 gets a loupe
that was going to be the second question
yeah, it's a pulley mounted on a nema23 tepper
they look square, or very steep trapezoid.
yeah the round lock ones are very round and not too tiny
I guess pitch, width, and basic tooth shape are the only parameter that matter
by and large there's only like 3 profiles I mena there's more but some interchange
big and little square ones and the round lock
he's got the little square one it sounds like
let me see if I can find the one pdf file I have about it and the name
yeah like a printer one. usually 2mm pitch but there's a few of them too
I dont have calipers here to measure , but it's a tiny pulley,
japanese printers are all metric
maybe it'll be on the motor's datasheet, if I can find that.
get the radis and count the teeth
cradek: Danimal-office: does your lathe have a spindle brake?
i think we both took ours off
i have a braking resistor, which is good enough
I was just wondering how you handled it
if it stops any faster, the chuck comes loose
bill2or3 hey i found it I think
although stupid assed google couldn't
let me put it on filebin
nice, that looks great.
bill2or3 helps you figure it out?
yeah, I think it will.
bill2or3 its pretty damned involved but to just figure out which it is it may help
once I get the sizes measured I'm going to hit sdp-si.com and see how many possible choices there are, that should narrow it down close enough to make a guess.
seems to me its the 3 or 5 mm GTs ot that power lok
power grip whatever it is
Sounds like GTs, but I'm still confused. I think HTD is compatible with the GT2
clytle374 it does seem like a couple mesh with each other to me too but timing belts are more complicated than they need to be
best place i found for surplus for them seems to be amazon too go figure
all the other surplus places act like they got gold or something
htd is 1/5" not 5mm iirc
MattyMatt says here 5mm
Hi everyone, question on the parallel port. Should it be set to epp, spp or ecp? Or something else?
yeah EPP is what I see
pfred1, I read that in a manual, don't ask where, I forgot.
wendtmk but it should be more clear in the documentation
clytle374 yeah I've been dealing with that recently myself and I guess they just assume everyone knows
pfred yeah I was thinking of the other one Tooth form: MXL, 2.03mm (0.08") pitch
MattyMatt you grabbed the pdf too?
Okay, thanks. I finally got my pooter hooked up to the controller box, and am walking through stepconf, and when I go to test each axis, nothing moves. using Keling 4030 drivers, cnc4pc bob, and wiring is per kelling instructions. When I power up, I can hear power getting to the steppers, but when I try to test the steppers after configuring, they're just locked up. No movement.
pfred1 no, but I will :)
I used the sdp-si sight to download the cad drawing of the pulleys to figure out whats what
clytle374 that may be where i grabbed this pdf from I can't remember
clytle374 all I know is its a lot more than i ever wanted to know about timing belts!
looks like about 10 teeth per inch.
I got the info on HTD and MXL from http://www.motionco.co.uk/timing-belts-timing-belts-c-25_45_27.html
bill2or3 section 7 page 13 gives nice tooth profiles
This is good to http://www.hpcgears.com/newpdf/technical_timing.pdf
ah, that helps.
I have one of those toy microscope cameras at home, once I get some good pictures of the teeth I should be able to tell.
* pfred1 wgets clytle374's URL ....
I think this motor is shot, bleh
it's all tight & hard to turn.
bill2or3 hold the wires apart
I got two, the other one feels fine.
it's wired with a plug, so I assume the wires aren't touching.
anyway, it's tighter than that would cause.
bill2or3 try this wire them color to color then turn the shaft on one
bill2or3 if the other motor turns they're both good
I tried that on the other motor, just to get a feel for how tight it was, and the 'good' one feels a lot looser than the 'bad' one.
bill2or3 no shorted stepeprs lock up
the more they lock up the better they are!
if the resistances look OK, plug it in and see. maybe it needs running in
it's a used motor, so who knows what condition its in.
phasing them without documentaiton is a pain
It's one of the vextas here --> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260561189835
bill2or3 ah the good old blurry ebay ad picture deal?
they arrived still hooked into the drivers, & the plugs are labeled.
yeah, I lucked out because that picture is so crappy. :-)
bill2or3 you'll find out
nice buy :)
MattyMatt yeah if its not all melted to slag
if I wire them color-to-color and turn the 'good' motor nothing happens, but if I turn the 'bad' motor, the good one moves, a little.
I bought it for the drivers anyway, so the motors are just frosting.
3 out of 4 is still a bargain
bill2or3 that is not a good sign
they're in nice milled aluminum mountings, too.
the one should mirror the other
yeah, I'm guessing it's shot.
Oh well, I can still use the pulley and mounting.
are the drivers geckos?
what's teh failure-mode for steppers anyway? Do the bearings usually go bad, or is something else more common?
I'd guess with amateurs hooking them up burnt windings
I guess coils get so hot they deform
Depends on how tight the belts were.
lets face it there's a lot of ways to mess a stepper up
Does the shaft flop around?
I hear stay away from medical pulls too the radiation wrecks the motors
ingress of dirt
I doubt the radiation is an issue
clytle374 I know a guy who does medical imaging he says stepeprs last like 6 months in the environment
clytle374 he's one of 200 certified worldwide to do tech work on the systems so he should know
Ever here those things chunck?
clytle374 but they're as clean when they come out as when they go in :)
Rads are too low to effect the motors. or are you talking xrays? Still shouldn't effect them
the shaft is not loose.
clytle374 yeha he says rads ruin them
they demagnetize maybe its in the MRI units they get messed up
he works on those too
mri damage would make more sense.
that would do it, rads used in medical stuff aren't big enought for metal cased motors
clytle374 you got to remember the motor is in there 24/7 it takes a beating
ohio has 2 nuclear plants
fuel rod actuators would get a dose
all I know is I wouldn't want medical pull stuff
Still, if the motor wasn't inside a lead box with the bad stuff, it isn't going to hurt it. fuel rods are an extreme example
there's a thread on cnczone about guys stripping commercial copiers they're getting fat hauls
Man, I wish I had the room for it... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1641172166.html
Jymmm looks more like a dust recirculator to me :)
mount it outside at the roofline
why do you say that?
MattyMatt so your neighbors can choke too?
As long as the bag isn't torn.
even carpet vacuums are bagless these days
No, the BAG is for air release, the drum collects the dust
vortex seperators work great for sawdust
them :) no coffee since nap. rectifying
this thing appears to be missing the vortex stage
if the dust is really bad i put a box fan in a window
Jymmm it is a nice motor impeller is probably nice too
pfred1: If it has blades under the lid, that's all it really needs.
For $50, not bad at all
can't get the drum or motor for that.
Heh, wonder how well it work for a vacuum table
1HP should suck harder than a $3 whore on free BJ day!
Jymmm you'd better get one of them alarm me pendants if yo utry that stunt!
so does anyone here have any experience with PCI I/O cards and emc2?
skunkworks_ like which work and which don't I want ot buy one
or do they all work?
[23:22:10] <skunkworks_> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?EMC2_Supported_Hardware
I like mesa..
skunkworks_ I mean parallel port cards
I've seen the recomendationfor the netmos 9815 but I've only seen one card that has that chip on it
I was just wondering if i have any other options is all
you could make one out of ttl chips, if you had one of those PCI prototyping boards
MattyMatt prices are reasonable enough for PC components
yeah nobody solders anymore :)
MattyMatt I solder just not when it isn't worth my time to do so
MattyMatt if i can buy a board for $7 I cannot compete with that
at $7, they are disposable
but with the information i have I am just taking a shot in the dark for it working now
for $29 I can get a board i know will work
but I'd prefer having all of my options open to me
I'd start with a $7 one fo sho, because if it burns out occasionally you can replace it
ther is no guarantee the $7 one will work at all
so it could be $7 down the drain
and the time to get it and time to replace it too
so far all I've seen is one line about one particular chip working well with EMC and I'm finding it hard to believe that someone doens't know of something else that works
I can't see why it wouldn't. maybe the $29 has extra pins, or is especially noise resistant, but otherwise a parport is a parport
far from it not all output 5 volts even
they should do. old printers need 5V signals
[23:37:00] <pfred1> http://www.linuxcnc.org/component/option,com_xfaq/task,answer/Itemid,5/catid,7/aid,11/lang,english/
that says others do not implement EPP correctly
doesn't say which others but implies there are some that don't
if it has a grater than 7/29 chance of working, it's a wise gamble
oh well I didn't think it an unreasonable request for information I guess I was wrong
typically I do not gamble unless the odds are 100% in my favor of winning
and so far its been working pretty good for me
and you get less clutter of semi-junk :)
I'll gamble on anything except hard drives. I want them shiny & new and not via mail
I guess I'll have to keep on looking for this one esoteric chip on a dead interface board that is getting harder and harder to find
I found one but one isn't much of a choice to me
cow is milked. I've got some stepper laying around from an old HP tape transport, maybe I should look and see if there are useful.
clytle374 you use plug in parallel port card?
no, mesa pci
just thinking I should get them out of the barn
clytle374 yes I'm just looking to go parallel port interface for now
Hello. I need a little reminder of how to install and run AXIS on a remote userland only networked PC.
Kirk_Wallace you want to do a remote X session?
I want to stream NML.
I want to just install AXIS without any of the realtime stuff.
you mean simulator mode?
clytle374 he wants to run axis all by itself
If remotely, I'm interested. remote X isn't so hot on my network
clytle374 what seems to be the problem?
clytle374 people been doing remote X sessions since the 80s
slow performance. wireless 54 Mb/s
in fact X was designed for it and thats the only way they used to do it
I am revisiting a setup I did a while back: http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/EMC2/remote_notes.html
still sucks for me.
clytle374 well we did have a lot simpler window managers back then
But this had a full install on both PC's
I would like to keep the remote as a standard PC
Kirk_Wallace I'm not 100% sure but I believe axis is just a front end and needs a lot of EMC to run
if not all of it in fact
shouldn't be all that much, it will run without realtime. just need to link the 2 pieces together.
Kirk_Wallace you know like there's 5 different front ends and axis is one of them?
clytle, have your tried vnc?
it worked better than X-forwarding for me.
TkEmc will run stand alone, but at the time some tweaks where made to AXIS, but I didn't follow up on it.
bill2or3, no I haven't. But will now that you brought it up.
give it a shot.
set your wallpaper to a single color.
bill2or3 real men run X Window with weave background!
did that first off, window animations off is important too.
yes, and CDK
if you ever want to get certifiable use TWM
a WM that was on SunOS, pre-twm
VNC worked for me too, but then the host need to run all of EMC2 plus VNC. It seems with streaming NML, I can shut down the host UI and save on resources.
I ran TWM for about 2 weeks and got worried when I started actually enjoying it!
I find it amazing that EMC2 uses Gnome