I was thinking of mounting the lathe tool changer off he head
if u can lock the spindle, u could put booring bars into collets etc just like they do on mill turns in effect
I was having the rotary axis at 90 deg to the mill spindle axis
lol at boring bars in a mill head, thats just weird man
I think your going at it the wrong way
id not like to know what it does to spindle bearings mind you
you should add a mill to a lathe
and a servo for the spindle
's why I didn't want to use the spindle to hold tools.
i was thinging of doing that with our 2nd lathe im refitting, sticking AC motor on for live tooling
just mount a rotary tool changer on the head
iv seen some really simple ass live tooling systems based around a BXA 1" boring bar holder :)
Like an overgrown flex shaft deal mounted in there
well the turret is 90% live tooling ready, as they did the lathe with live tooling, so i just need to put shaft in there, and sort the mounting out
also same deal for tool post grinding with a die grinder in the boring bar holder, lol
that 40W laser cutter thing, I was thinking of getting a 40W LED laser and making a "tool" out of that to just put into the mill
they have 40W laser leds?
Iv only heard of up to 200mW or so
last time I looked they were ~$200 or so
here you go valen, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gX75gaAcWWA
im pertty sure you mean 40mW or sometihng
no i mean 40 watts
they use them for laser cutting
lol at offcenter turning
all the 200mW lasers iv seen have been like $200~300
ri im off get some sleep, laters all
you can get green lasers in that price range and power
[00:10:12] <Valen> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1998
gez they have gotten cheap
'Note: pictures show our 10mW version which is identical in appearance to the 150mW version (except power output and the warning label on it)' lols
they are shit though, no IR filter so it'll burn your retina off
'some products sold are marked to be 200mW while they are really less than that. These are manufacturer claimed. We do not have the adequate equipments to test output so we recommend you to thoroughly read about these and only buy them if you feel comfortable doing so'
for $30 shipped what did you expect?
well I mean the last 200mW one I saw looked more like a 2C flashlight or something
and was $200
[00:12:55] <Valen> http://cgi.ebay.com/Opto-Power-40w-Laser-Diode-808nm-NdYV04-Pump-DPSS-Burns_W0QQitemZ250588032711QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a5835eec7#ht_1906wt_1167
wonderful picture he posted lol
looks like ~$400 is the sell price on them
still a LOT lower then I would of ever expected.
I thought like 40W would be 1k at least, possabley not even includeing power supply and shit.
aren't the 40W laser diodes 808nm?
actualy he has 8 available for $275 per
BlackMoon: it might not cut as well as a CO2 laser
IR definately sucks/scary, but still impressive.
ds3: Yea, but the price sure is attractive
hmm would need an IR screen around the mill lest you burn the crap out of yourself with a stray reflection
BlackMoon: do they sell a driver circuit/power supply?
afaik CO2 lasers arnt that expensive but the PSU/etc isent exactly cheap and either is the power
* BlackMoon shrugs, ask Valen
I wonder if they sell like, night vision goggles without the NV part for lasers
basicly just a webcam + cheesy LCD goggles
that'd fully protect your eyes AND let you see IR!
BlackMoon: they have toy versions of those
but AFAIK, they don't work with the 10.6um lasers
Of course, 40W is still enough to give you serious 3rd degree burns, but oh well. at least you'll see the beam when it happens. :p
CO2 laser wavelength, IIRC
[00:17:38] <Valen> http://cgi.ebay.com/Spectra-Physics-06500105-Laser-Head-Newport_W0QQitemZ250537036402QQihZ015QQcategoryZ109452QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ht_1802wt_1167
nah would be longer than that I belive
Co2 is greenish last time I saw one
not the cutting lasers
reguardless, some kinda LCD/webcam helmet would protect you from lasers
even if you can't see them on the webcam
assumeing the laser doesnt burn right through your stupid glasses that is :P
nope right you are
or just have it behind a box with a filter
10 um give or take
most things absorb 10.6um quite well
its UV, so your cornea will, might save your retina
Oh joy, baked corneas, thats so much better.
well you can replace those
I don't think having your eyeball turn into scrambled eggs would save ya much.. :P
I just installed emc2 on a system here and am having some troubles getting it to NAT through this box so I can get it networked I can ping this box etc just my iptables commands seem wrong can nayone help me?
thing is it causes pain and triggers the blink reflex
why are you using iptables on emc?
Valen I'm not
Valen iptables is on this system
so your only exposed to 100-200ms vs IR you might close your eyes when you notice the black spots in your vision
Valen the emc2 box is a client
Valen I'd like to get the emc2 box online though so I can have access to the Internet on it
your not using your modem as a router or such?
Valen I have two systems one is the emc2 box one is this one I want to use this box as a masq and have emc2 access the Internet through it
why not use the modem to do all that, they have it all built in pointy clicky
Valen because the modem is 200 feet away!
ok lets try again
Valen I don't have a spare 200 foot network cable lying around and Linux can do NAT
describe your network topolgy
start with the modem
is it doing NAT?
Valen it is unavailable at this location
Valen the emc2 box is plugging into this one or nothing
Valen it is not an option
yes but it is a part of your network, and if its bridged or nated makes a difference to how you should be setting up this box
Valen yes the modem is bridged
so you are running pppoeclient on the machine you are on
not as far as I know
pastebin output of ifconfig for your box
[00:27:54] <pfred1> http://pastebin.com/DnjH1yJP
right your modem is doing nat, you don't want to set this box up for nat you want to set it up as a bridge
Valen is that what is different?
because i have done this before and it was never this difficult
bridge makes the box into a switch basically, it joins the 2 halves of the network, there are no firewall rules
so I have a few switches lying around can I just plug every box into one switch?
like the line form the modem into the switch then all the other boxes into the switch too?
if you have a switch just put it where your PC is, plug emc and the current machine into it and then the cable from the modem into it
that would rock!
do you have switches or modems?
you mean I've been pulling my hair out all this time and that's al lI had to do?
I think they're switches
I've always used them as switches
do they have an ADSL port on them?
says right on the one i have here 8 port ethernet switch
yeah just plug that in
all it has is RJ-45s and LEDs
yeah just plug it in
and my modem will sort it all out?
oh that'd be leet!
but then I couldn't local to this box anymore
well I'll give it a shot
what do you mean local to this box?
just run direct into this box from the other one just how I'm used to having a LAN setup I guess it isn't too important really
that is the very hard way of setting up a lan
I prefer my subnet to be static it's just easier for me over time
what did you use switches for before?
subnets are static
that is what they're usually used for right?
LAN stands for local area network
yes i know what LAN stands for thank you
that means anything on your side of the modem
pfred, with them all connected to a switch you can still connect them to each other
your modem includes a gateway which creates a LAN, apparently
saying you used LANs for switches doesn't make sense to me
TD-Linux yes but when i shut them down then start them up again DHCP will assign them new IPs
use static IPs
so set them to static IP's in the modem
you don't even need to use the modem
or manually configure the IP addresses
TD-Linux don't know if my modem will go for that or not
the modem assigns IP addresses in a certain range
most of them do
pfred1: it will
192.168.1.* is a common range
linksys routers won't assign any computers below .100
so you can do static addresses below that
the modem seems to sit on 192.168.1.1
yeah, so you could make your box 192.168.1.2
just make my box static?
or go into the modem and create a static assignment there
I've been in there never saw the option
either make a static assignment in the dhcp on the modem or manually configure the machine
whats the model of the modem
it looks to be a you get what you get to me
TD-Linux, I prefer static dhcp, cos you can change the network easier then ;->
Valen: yeah, my old linksys routers didn't have that :(
until I put dd-wrt on them :)
I hate linksys these days
I got a wrt610n
all their stuff overheats and craps out
worst thing ever
I have had good luck with dreytek but there is some bug with passthrough PPPoE and the open source clients, makes the connection reset after an hour
using a billion for the modem/fw/nat at the moment, after I took the case of and mounted an 80mm fan on top of it, its been much more stable
I have a MI424-WR modem
you have fiber to the home?
you should not be allowed that internet connection, I hate you
it's only 8/2
I have had better luck with linksys vs netgear or dlink. (consumer) actually have quite a few wireless links that 'just work'
heh I swapped a netgear wireless AP thing for commercial 3com dual antenna thing
doing all of this messing around I seem to have a ghost host on my modem now
I wonder if I should reboot it to get rid of it or not?
What does this message mean?
hm2/hm2_5i20.0: hm2_encoder_parse_md() ne=12 inst=12
'Advanced' > ('Yes') > 'IP Address Distribution' > 'Connection List' > 'DHCP Connections'
that should let you set static assignments I believe
Valen it just seems to display information to me
Valen I could take a screenshot of it
go to page 137 of the manual
For "Static DHCP" to always assign the same IP to a given device: Click Advanced, Yes, IP Address Distribution, Connection List. If the device you want is in the list and you want it to keep the IP it already has, just click the Hostname link or edit icon, check the box for Static Lease Type and click Apply. Otherwise click New Static Connection and enter the MAC address and IP.
I was going to just whip the wire over ot the other system for a while but decided to try to get all of this to work
though they may have taken that out with some firmware
Valen yeah Verizon isn't out there to make nayone's life easier or too happy
Valen all I have is Access Shared File,s Website Blocking, Block Internet Services, Enable Applications, View Device Details, and Rename this Device
are you in the advanced menu?
Valen that's where the pretty blue + symbol is on now yes
I dunno, worry about it later, most of the time even with dhcp it should be pretty static untill you power cycle the modem
Valen like I said in all the excitement earlier i managed to jump IPs on this machine
yeah if you go around requesting new ones and setting static ones it'll make stuff happen
undo all the stuff you had done to try and make NAT
Valen that was just some iptables rules on this system
you didn't set any static IP addresses or anything
or save the iptables rules?
which don't appear to do anything to me
just on the secondary ethernet connection on this box and on the emc2 box
anyway just plug the switch in, and cross your fingers
set the emc box back to dhcp for everything if you have changed it
or I'll just rip the wire over ot the other machine do what i have to do then move it back
like I was going to do to begin with
once i get that box all setup I don't think I'll need an internet connection on it anymore
yeah you do
how else will you talk to us?
well I feel better i thought I was doing something wrong and apparently I was!
I was like this usually takes me all of 2 minutes to do how come its being so difficult totay?
well you are doing it the hard way to start with
NAT is usually ap iece of cake on Linux
least it was shen I had cable and DSL
simpler than just plugging stuff in?
anyhow enough of that
double NAT is a bad idea anyway
because things can get lost
thats nothing new
but it usually works OK for me
[01:01:27] <pfred1> http://img355.imageshack.us/ifs/6498/img683/2/stepproto1.jpg
64 bytes from cnc (10.42.43.2): icmp_seq=5 ttl=64 time=0.401 ms
least I got the two boxes ot talk to one and another
here's my parallel port buffer I am designing http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/5430/bob1i.png
my homemade stepper motor driver: http://img355.imageshack.us/ifs/6498/img683/2/stepproto1.jpg
pfred1: what kind of transistors are those?
I see few heatsinks
are they H-bridges or something all in one package?
TD-Linux no transistors but a voltage regulator and an allegro 7026M
oh, a stepper motor driver in a chip?
I assume that's a unipolar motor
TD-Linux a newer motor driver IS makes its own step sequences this one doesn't
TD-Linux yes 6 wire
ok, so basically 4 transistors in a case :P
IC not IS
well it does current limiting too
it is PWM
which would be something else to try to make
then when I ran two off the same step counter they messed with each other with noise so I had to optically isolate the control lines
What's a Southbend 16 x 40 go for? And is it any good?
Jymmm depends on how worn out it is
gimme a number and condition?
Jymmm here's a guy who wants $1,100 for a 13" http://cgi.ebay.com/Southbend-Lathe-Used-13-swing-Cat-CL145A_W0QQitemZ230442504983QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a7719317
But is that good?
Jymmm and it doesn't exactly look cherry to me
Jymmm I wouldn't want to try to make one for you for $1,100
Jymmm it depends on the circumstances though
Jymmm I mean if a place goes out of business and things have to go etc.
Jymmm a buddy of mine picked up a lathe for $200 with like an 8 foot bed
pfred1: bigger lathes then that had been available for the hauling
and it wasn't all shot to hell either
ds3 yup usually the really big stuff no one wants
ds3 grandpa can't figure out how to drag it down his celler stairs!
pfred1: I think it is more like, he's got to raise the house by another 10ft for it to stay in the celler :D
trick is to hook up with a flat bedcompany they'll haul heavy machinery for you in their slack time
ds3 well you know what I mean anything that two guys can't carry down stairs lots pass up
you are missing my point
it ain't the stairs, it just plain won't fit even if you teleport it in there
from the descriptions I read... some of those were as big as the bed of a semi
ds3 oh people pass on far smaller equipment than that
i.e. something big enough you can chuck a prius in there ;)
there's lathes with elevators in them
but I don't think anyone resells those
wouldn't those count as perm. fixtures for the property?
no you could get a crew to wreck it on site
but it'd be trucked away as scrap
I worked at a place we made live centerers 5 feet tall
I heard they were mainly for the paper industry
some rolls of paper are pretty large
which meaning of live center are you using? a center that goes in the headstock or a center on the tail stock with bearings on it for spinning?
yeah a tailstock center
but they were just big
we could make them but we didn't have any machines that could use one
what kinda MT taper do you put on a 5' live center? :P
BlackMoon I was just thinking that it wasn't my department I only saw them around the shop
BlackMoon they looked just like a regular center you could fit in the palm of your hand only 5 feet tall
like a rod attached?
no they were just scaled up
these things weighed like a half a ton
they were you know like a foot or so in diameter
I'll see if i can find one online
I know we had a brouchure wiht someone standing next to one
here's what i used to make: http://www.rochestermachinerysuppliers.com/content/images/PC270077.JPG
fluid motion wheel dressers
that BTW is a really nice one
that puppy would set you back close to 10 grand new
company is dead now I doubt they make anything anymore
I know even when i was there they'd rebrand imported stuff and sell it sometimes
Well no wonder they went outta business, charging 10 grand for that. :P
BlackMoon yeah you could get imported ones for a lot cheaper
BlackMoon new they were accurate to .0001 of an inch and when I rebuilt them they had to exceed .0005
wow thats pertty tight.
whats that crank on the right for?
BlackMoon they are instruments
BlackMoon when you moved it back and forth the head would swing
it is to dress a grinding wheel
yea I understand its function
just wondering about that perticular crank
that's a nice video of that Leadwell VMC
depsnging on how you set it up you could make a wheel with any radius angle or combination
Z for the dresser point?
yea, concave/convex dressing for a wheel. I get it
for surface grinders
uber accurate ground radiuses in hardened steel ftw.
well for special grinding applications
for regular surface grinding all you need is a flat dressed wheel
yea, I meant grinding radiuses INTO the hardened steel
honestly i never used one i just put a carbide ball in it and ran an indicator on it
well that was part of the rebuild to test it out
still, overpriced at 10k IMO. so much shit is overpriced in the industral sector
I'd take the whole thing apart clean it all resurface it all throw some new parts on it put it back together and spec it again
1k would be a good price for that kinda precision.
BlackMoon I think we charged that to rebuild one
with $100 being some cheap ass chinese imitation that holds 0.001"~
BlackMoon you have to make every one of those parts
BlackMoon the graduated base was such a pain to make
just that one part was so many operations
then you did'nt have the correct equipment ;)
has anyone used a joystick for manual emc control?
cut it lathe it mill it graduates it number it oh it was unreal we'd get like maybe 1 in 20 good
1 in 20?? gez.
BlackMoon from start of run to finish sure
BlackMoon you get 100 operations exactly right on a part
screw one up its done
I mean id ignorantly suggest CNC but that's just my ignorance talking of course.
I know theres a lot more at play.
each one of those operations is performed by a different machine
even CNC's are not perfict.. just the insert wearing can fubar things.. or work heating.. etc.
I mean that part starts out as rod stock
But as far as equipment, Maybe a CNC lathe with live tooling and engraving capabilitys would help? :P
the bandsaw we had would have blown your mind
for part of it we used a CNC lathe
though I guess thats all laser engraved or something?
no we used a mechanical graduater
then a stamping machine to number it
whats a mechanical graduater?
you'd set the part in this machine and it'd index it and scratch the graduations on it
a graduating machine
it sort of reminded me of a clock
because it'd tick
Kinda seems like an excessive number of operations, especialy if things are going wrong beween them
oh it was a bitch if you didn't have the piece in there exactly right we lost a lot graduating
then yo uhad to have the numbers stamped where the graduations were it wasn't easy
Like what would be so wrong doing it on a CNC mill with rotary table and spring loaded engraving tool? or carbide peramid point
for doing graduations and numbering
they'd been doing it the way they'd been doing it for over 60 years?
Ahh that was the problem.
you'd still have to set it in the jig right
Yea, but you'd have a few less jigs :)
and once you did that the graduator did a nicer job
the difference between an automatic machine that is set up and a cnc that is set up is very small
well what made the graduator better?
especially for operations like this
graduaters use drag diamond tooling, usually.
sounds like something a mill and 4th axis could do
toastydeath: well for one operation sure
BlackMoon it engraved
but when you have a second operation to proform on the exact same setup but needs a diffrent machine?
was just this tool that'd scratch it in there it does a beautiful job
like ruler graduations
toastydeath: well you can do drag diamond tooling in a mill too
BlackMoon, no, most real graders are shapers
yea and you don't need to rotate the tool in a mill
toastydeath well thats what this one did but it rotated too
it's like you take your finger, tap it on the desk, and drag it off
it was like a tiny shaper
spring loaded tool
and you just yaknow. don't turn on the mill spindle
and its gonna have enough friction in the spindle bearings to prevent some little diamond from rotating it
very few things need the accuracy of a grader
i would personally do it in a cnc, but i don't know if there's some reason they wanted to keep it on the manual machine other than "that's the way we did it"
yea like what exactly makes the grader better then a rotary table of equivilent cost?
BlackMoon the thing is yeah OK its overpriced but for that price you know it is perfect
BlackMoon, a good grader can produce a diffraction grating
a mill cannot
BlackMoon it'd take you years ot make one on your own
pfred1: unfortualy thats not true.
BlackMoon lok I was there I'm telling you it is
toastydeath: actualy iv seen a guy who recently produced a diffraction grating on his mill using diamond drag tooling
BlackMoon, there's making something that looks like a diffraction grating
BlackMoon if it came out messed up we'd can it right then and there
and then there's a diffraction grading for spectroscopy
pfred1: yea but I mean cost itself does not guarentee anything
BlackMoon well that is what you were paying for
I once bought a grinder that was way more expensive then compairable models and turned out to be a compleat and utter peice of shit.
a tool as accurate as a micrometer
just because something is priced expensively does not mean its worth that much, no insult to your tool just trying to point something out :)
BlackMoon you're not going to point anything outto me
sometimes things are overpriced to make them seem higher quality too, that REALLY pisses me off.
BlackMoon, and just because something is CNC does not mean it is more accurate than the manual tool.
this is a fallacy i see very often in #emc
toastydeath: of course not, it needs to be built to the same or better accuracy as the manual tool
especialy if nobody is there to compensate for its wear
toastydeath pfft the only thing that stands any chance of being accurate is grinding
whatever I'm not going to argue this
there are lots of single point operations that are just as accurate as any grinding operation in form
we'd get stuff to .003 on mills or lathes and finish them on grinders
because once you heat treat stuff god knows what it's goingto come back as
so why bother making it any better? then you have to grind it anyways
Im gonna buy some CBN/cermet inserts some day
that doesn't bear on the fact there are mills and lathes that are just as accurate as grinders.
Then i'll show that hardened steel who is boss...
[02:30:37] <toastydeath> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZuBZPop2NU
here is one such lathe.
BlackMoon if we had to work hardened steel we'd either aneal it or grind it or EDM it
doesent even look to be touching the surface.
LOL at bumped part
keep in mind it's placing the tool to a couple millionths of an inch when it's doing those bumps.
Single point grinding ftw.
Assuming you have a few years.
yeh, most of those parts take 6-8 hrs
BlackMoon I bet they're not giving them away when they're done wit hthem either
[02:34:21] <toastydeath> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sntM0wB-xGw
well yea theres allways costs involved
the company i left this past December makes the bearings that go in that DAC lathe
just my though was 1 in 20 making it outta the shop = something seriously wrong.
what do I know.
BlackMoon yeah we were making lots of them
BlackMoon you lose lots of parts setting operations up you know?
no, I lose a lot of time setting operations up. im a hobbyest.
a LOT of time....
weeks sometimes! At least thats my excuse.
BlackMoon well when you have 1,000 parts sitting there tossing a half a dozen dialing a setup in isn't a big deal you know?
sure doesnt take me weeks to machine it so it must be taking me weeks to do something...
even for simple parts setup takes ~4 hrs
pfred1: Except when its at every stage your tossing out parts.. Not many make it out!
when you figure finding all the shit you need and getting your tools together, taking old tools out and putting new ones in, whatever
BlackMoon yuppers thats how it works
slow down and make test passes
the boss wants to see full bins and he don't care how they get filled up
I dial the machine out a distance, watch it run, and then bump it in
got concrete? ;)
cuts way down on scrap if what you're looking for is good parts and don't have many to scrap
what does he say when the only bin thats full is the scrap bin? :P
BlackMoon thats going to get filled up anyways
or did you just forget to label what ones scrap and what one is good parts and never told him?
BlackMoon we'd fill a 40 yarder with scrap every week
no we has 20 gallon ash cans all over the shop
I can make nothing in my shop and still throw out a 5 gallon bucket of garbage every week or two
I have no idea where it comes from
you have to realize in order to work you had to shovel out a spot for yourself right?
I mean in a sop you really make chips!
'all I made all week was a cup coaster and I have 5 gallons of garbage, Real shops must produce TONS of garbage!'
oh yeah on a good day i was good for maybe 3 20 gallon barrels or so of swarf
prehaps you should start with more appropriate size stock ;)
ds3 perhaps I was making runs of 10,000 pieces?
I have to turn some 1 5/8" threads onto some 3" HRS barstock
got most of the turning done...
thankfuly I got the feeds right to make nice thick C/9 chips
pfred1: same applies... you get way less chips if you used say a casting to start with
love a nice carbide insert with a light lead angle
i'd hate trying to load 10k castings into a machine
ds3 we made everything out of billet except for a few pieces
i'd rather pay the couple extra cents and lose some material to chips and walk away from the lathe
than have someone sit there
ds3 we sawed steel like it was pine
toastydeath: you must have a bar puller?
ds3, my favorite machine had a bar feeder
ds3 our horizontal bandsaw blew my mind how it went through stock
for some reason i was the only one who used it, but i used it for everything i could
toastydeath oh yeah the bandsaw had a hydraulic feeder
big assed roller table
toastydeath: have you ever started the chuck with it unclamped with a 12ft stock ?
that's the part I don't like about autochucks or stock feeders
toastydeath the feeder on that saw was accurate to .002 of an inch or better too!
i had relatively few problems with the machine end, though - i only had a few screw ups on my part
most of my problems were from the pusher itself
and the prox switches
pfred1, ours was not that nice =(
we were lucky to be able to get +/- .030
toastydeath it was a war purchace from the nazis
I'll settle for an ATC on my machine!
toastydeath totally mechanical
ours was a DoAll hydraulic auto
toastydeath it was probably making 88s before we got it
lots of grunt, no accuracy
toastydeath I'd clamp 4 2x4 bar stocks together on the roller table and it'd just gobble them up!
toastydeath I couldn't even come close to deburring while it was sawing away
it'd just make a pile of blocks on the floor while i was at the belt sander
i never deburred stuff off the saw, i just crushed it in either the vise or the chuck
or if it was real important before it went in the machine
that saw was like 9 TPI it's really burr stock
yeah, i used a 2 for everything
the burrs are big but the vise is bigger
when i say it sawed steel like it was pine i mean it really sawed steel like it was pine
belt sanders are awsome for deburring
and i don't want to stand around taking the edge off 400 little bars that are going to get milled up anyway
also, those mini belt sanders, the 'hand file' size
I got a 13"x3/8", deburrs everything real quick
BlackMoon yeah especially when it is an 10 foot tall vertical one
BlackMoon I broke the belt on it once i almost had a heart attack!
pfred1: try the smaller ones sometimes :)
Good for those large chunks of metal
BlackMoon that belt came out at me like it was an anaconda or something
and tighter recesses
like I can actualy deburr the inside of square tubing with mine
we'd use die grinders for stuff like that
though, a carbide cone in a die grinder does a good job too
a big part of what i did was making these hold down clamps and they were very blocky
my deburring tool was a vietnamese lady named Lien who would always try to deburr things no matter how small the burr was
"no lien, these do not need deburring"
she was right
i will miss lien most of all
any parts smaller then the burr?
she was hilarious
you paid her by the burr did'nt you?
no, she got paid hourly
you don't deburr you're just measuring burr
pfred1, you don't measure raw bar stock
pfred1: unless you use the little notchs in your calipers to step over the burr
or micrometers, etc
BlackMoon I'd love to see you run the boach
toastydeath: Sure you do, if you wanna be disappointed.
BlackMoon or should i say run from the broach!
BlackMoon because if you had the part so much as a thousandth sticking out it didn't like that!
BlackMoon and it'd throw the work at you which was invariably a large chunk of steel
BlackMoon, no, you cut it right the first time
i worked in an air bearing shop
BlackMoon and our broach could shoot a piece of work clear across the whole shop
it's not like i don't know what i'm doing
pfred1: sounds very.. dangerious.
toastydeath: I meant stock diamiters
BlackMoon it has 12" hydraulic rams 20 feet long!
those don't have burrs, i am talking about the cut ends of stuff
HRS/CRS is not very accurate.
is the kind of shit she'd try to deburr
why deburr something when you're about to lop that end off anyway in a machine
because you need to have a clean burr free shop
iv seen people have problems doing stuff like measureing wall thickness of pipe due to the burr
they don't know to insert the caliper all the way so the notch steps over the burr.
BlackMoon why not just deburr it you're going to have to eventually anyways
in that case it's acceptable to hit the thing with a die grinder
ill usually just file or knife off where im going to measure
if you're going to measure it, make it clean
saw cut burrs are nasty those notches usually arent that deep
because this was in a metal shop
where nobody deburred anything, just sawed and sold
renesis: bandsaws iv seen don't burr to badly if not run agressively
abrasive saws sure will
ask for a ECO that stays "Dimensions are inclusive of burr at MMC" ;)
well you just don't need to deburr everything is what im saying, even if your gonna measure it
got to use GD&T to your advantage !
you just have to be aware not to measure the burr
ds3: it sucks calculating when they start stacking up!
but yeah irl i usually just see one or two callouts
get the drawing worded so all your parts pass
and lots of times its vs diff datums, so its not a big deal
but fuck that class its like, wtf how did adding and subtracting become so difficult
all in all, I'd say....GD&T or ANY tolerancing is good... have to deal with folks who do not tolerance their drawings
exjob would do stuff like that
i am not a fan of, let's keep remaking parts til they fit
also they would try to order capacitor values out to the random 3rd decimal place
something with the gimp really jacks up my jitter
but then I was also dealing with a laser cutting shop that insist on using the centerlines of my drawings as the cutting lines, i.e. not offsetting by the kerf of their laser
A yaskawa sgm servo motor with the A !A, B !B, C !C is a rs422 differential signal, right?
* renesis goes to try
renesis its really good until just before gimp completely loads
Should work directly with a mesa card, right?
then it goes through the roof!
flashing light through classic ladder - next THE WORLD!
* pfred1 knows how to abuse a Linux computer ;)
pfred no joke ;-P
Maybe I should study abacus use and manual machining.
Valen years of practice
really without the gimp running I get under 7000
[03:08:28] <skunkworks> http://www.electronicsam.com/images/KandT/testing/pent4-26ghz1.png
ah it just shot up without the gimp to 315651 this is not goo
may have to try another video card or something here
pfred1: yeah it bumped up on my thing but didnt get to the max ive seen on it
renesis glxgears is eating like 85% of my CPU
heh it pops out fractals and does art filters without affecting jitter much
load average of 3.24
yeah there is some sort of a glitch with my system that spikes my jitter
opening an opengl window does it to me
I'm just getting these really bad spikes
also do you have a multi processor machine or have hyper threading on if its single core?
it is pretty regular about every 2 or 3 minutes?
it is single don't know about hyper
every 90 seconds or so might be smi..
how would I check?
there is a known issue with some motherboards that causes a latency spike
skunkworks what is smi?
yeah thats it skunkworks
skunkworks 90 seconds sounds about right i mean its great then bang
[03:19:27] <skunkworks> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?FixingSMIIssues
about every 50 seconds
skunkworks bookmarked thanks
OK if this is so dangerious should i load it all the time or just when I am doing CNC with the machine?
I have used it with no ill effects :)
skunkworks yeah it doesn't sound like the end of the world to me
I'd suggest running lmsensors or something and keeping an eye on it for a while see how it works
or get one of the atom mbo's ;->
Valen if it blows up I'll try my hand at something else i guess
so how come i can't just modprobe in the module?
well lets see if this junk works
none of the rtai modules load is there something I am missing here?
that, and I don't have a rtapi.conf.in file at all
so I skipped all of that being as I didn't have one
skunkworks 13186 so far with no hiccups!
great. Did you sudo lspci -v and see if you had the chipset?
skunkworks no but it seems to have did the trick let me tell you!
its steady like a rock now you da man!
I'd have never found that crap
heh - even a broken clock is right twice a day ;)
starting glxgears didn't evne make it flinch
skunkworks I've been thinking about that saying a lot lately what if the clock ran erratically?
so is 13186 OK?
that is decent
yeah I don't think my machine is going to set any land speed records anyways
I htink if it does 10 ipm I'll be thrilled with it
now I want to test out the port buffer I am making and get the computer to just run the stepper on my worktable
when i see that I'll start seeing all of this coming together someday
then it'll all just be sweat and i know how to sweat
I would think you could run 25-30k pulse rate conservitivly.
skunkworks did you see my homemade motor driver i made?
[04:01:10] <pfred1> http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/6498/stepproto1.jpg
look out gecko!
skunkworks you only say that because you haven't seen the bottom of it yet: http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/6572/stepproto1b.jpg
I've spun it up to 2500 RPM
it has no torque there but it's done it
it pulls out at like 220 RPM
I just reset the jitter and its 6057 / 5977
run it for a good hour or more.
and glxgears is going too
the motherboard in this system is an HP vectra VL400
1 Ghz Pentium 3 wiht 512Mb RAm
all dumpster dove stuff
its too bad this latency test doesn't like chart the results or something
OK so does anyone know what these numbers all mean in this latency test? I think I figured out that the lower the jitter is the better but how about say the first number max Interval ?
pardon me while I spam the channel: http://jmkasunich.com/pics/grayhill.html
Im totaly new here but I never mind totaly ontop spam when its rock bottom low prices on cool stuff. (assuming its not excessively repeated)
(from someone who hangs out and doesn't just driveby spam anyway.)
heh - I'm going to post that link exactly once here
also posted it on cnc-zone, in a forum specifically listed for advertising
Im sure they will go fast :)
hope so, I'm gonna want my dining room table back
Yea I have a table with a bunch of D1-6 backplates I still need to sell off in the basement -_-;
jmkasunich: You actually OWN a dining room table?
jmkasunich: Or is it a workbench you USE as a dining table?
it's a real table
I got it from craigslist ;-)
jmkasunich: LOL, very good =) You gotta love CL (sometimes)
jmkasunich: I got a $200 keyer (ham radio) for $50 of of CL
really a very nice table, especially for $125 (including the chairs) http://jmkasunich.com/pics/craigslist-table-3514.jpg
and it's time for me to be sleepin'
come with the dog?
dog costs extra
Buy a dining room table, get a free dog
But, what about the green squeaky toy?
ries_ is now known as ries
[07:58:58] <MrSunshine> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rZ2FPuO5iM&feature=related
in that how the heck does it release and grab hold of the tool ?
you can hear the pnuematic cylinder when he picks up
note the pressure is released to grip, which means he uses a spring to provide grip force as many do and the pneumatic cylinder overcomes the spring to release
archivist, but how is it stuck on there ?
just friction ?
man that things collumn is tiny
BlackMoon, and he has moved the head away from the column
I thought it looked modifyed
Is that like, extreme turd polishing? :)
dunno if he realises his chatter is designed in :)
one hopes he is learning
the rapids are lol.
you could manualy toolchange faster
Can I think it is possible to compile a fake RTAI with acpi support - i.e. to make it safe to install it to laptop?
he knows his toolchanger position then takes the head to full height
e|m|blyton, run the latency check to see if the laptop is usable, but more important how are you going to connect to hardware
archivist: residents of this chat know me. latency test fails and I think I'm risking to overheat, for example, RAM modules in my laptop
I asked about it eralier.
its the cpu that is shutting down not ram
archivist: no, I had to repair RAM (by the guarantee from the manufacturer)
add fans, to the case or whatever is needed to keep it cool
Whole motherboad is being heated on RTAI. CPU is capable to be cooled down, but various chipsets...
basicly laptops are not suitable
archivist: I would have to remove the plastic from the bottom part of the laptop. It would be easier to buy some old Ppentium III with monitor, for about 100 USD and buy some RAM modules to get about 768 MB of RAM.
I use old throw away computers
every chipset on the motherboad should have a radiator, for a start, since your computer runs system with RTAI
archivist: yeah, yeah... Installing to the laptop was so stupid!
May I add this pretty straightfoward opinion to wiki?
I actually still don't understand. "RTAI can make this monster (my laptop) work (produce timings and signals). But it immediately overheats and stops to work. And any "loosened" RTAI settings let him to fail the Latency Test, because it starts to work as a laptop (it starts idling for more with "soft" RTAI settings to stay cool).
can you not just run sim only
that should be able to run without rtai no?
Simulation runs perfectly, off course.
without RTAI, the system is just usual Ubuntu -- as you and me, my friend.
Well, im glad to know theres reasons not to use a laptop as a CNC controller
or you will have to add coolers and radiators. = turn laptop to be usual computer
does emc2 support a 4th axis?
for turning the part
"turning table" probably
e|m|blyton rotating such as a mil i mean
turning table to mill wheels for cars
it rotates precisely, not at hight speed
numen, up to 9 axis so yes
i mean for milling top and botton side^^
9 axis? lol
just have to find out, how to set up my inventorcam for this....
'And in the 9th axis, we turn space and time inside out to mill the inside of hollow enclosed objects'
does anyone use solidcam here?
cause i need an post processor for the turning axis
I run a 5 axis and currently no cam in my price range, so I hand code
archivist can you show me an pic?
[09:02:02] <archivist> http://www.collection.archivist.info/archive/djcpd/PD/2009/2009_08_15/102CANON/IMG_0246.JPG
oops i meant http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAtziCsUj5Q
my paths a of a sort you can program the maths for
the machine column got stiffened up and lifted later
archivist: cool rig, though I bet you have never been charged with having aesthetics :)
(nevermind me, im jelous, Especialy of your gear gobs below)
MrSunshine: those pics, they from the new casting? Why only support on one side? you may see them flex.
i just realized, the latest rtai release is almost 5 years old
is there a range for the P setting in the INI that makes sense? ie. over this and your nuts...
I wonder how it'll go with all the new schedualer stuff
RTAI 3.8 released
Posted by: admin on 02/16/2010 03:18 PM
The tarball of RTAI 3.8 is available at rtai-3.8.tar.bz2
seems pretty recent to me
i followed the link in http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?RtaiSteps
i suppose the documentation is outdated then
someone has to take the blame, and it's not going to be me ;)
"On no account use any patches from www.adeos.org "
adeos.org seems gone now though..
elmo40, erll flexing up and down i figured wouldnt be such a big problem and its 10mm of alu and its like 4cm out to the supports from the mounting point
e|m|blyton is now known as Guest4786
does anyone here use solidcam?
numen_ is now known as numen
it's OK. nobody noticed
stupid question - you do you make the section of the ladder longer than 6 blocks?
classic ladder - really green at it ;)
I made a led flash! ;)
I must not know the mnomenclature.. I just have to add more rungs.
each ... ladder? has just a few lines worth of space. you have to edit them individually
when out of the editor, click the one you want to edit next - I think it turns color, then start the editor again
I don't know the terminology either
there are sections, each of which has several rungs
I think he needs to start the next rung
I don't know what the significance of rungs is
I was going to suggest adding rungs, but I don't know how to do it :)
each "line" is a rung, so if you need more lines for a given function, you need more rungs
yes - that seems to be it.
SWPadnos: what do I need to get the rotating desktop cube you use?
I always thought each rung was each electrical connection - not each section. got confused.'
because when you go to delete a 'section' it says - 'do you want to delete this rung'
getting there ;)
I don't know what the significance of different sections is either
maybe it's just like 'sheets' of schematic - purely for your own understanding
I think they're just a way of organizing different functions
I think so
so you don't have to deal with e-stop stuff when you're trying to work on tool changes
reminds me of "a paragraph should have 5 sentences!" which I recall thinking was stupid in first grade
introduction, discussion, conclusion
(kind of like read - process - write)
to add rungs, you need to do it in the hal file
loadrt classicladder_rt numbrungs=#
but the default is pretty high i think
right - I see that I can have 8 with the current config.
each run is finite though? always 6ish blocks (seems small if you want all the tool change logic to fit in one)
you see the red bars on either side of the selected rung? you can hit insert in the editor block and it'll insert one right below the selected rung. Or you can hit add, and i think it will add a rung to the end
skunkworks, the size of the rung doesnt matter, you can just continue to the next rung
but yea, it's a fixerd size
ah - cool
but you cannot connect vertical from one run to the next?
(not that it is an issue)
yea, you cant as far as i know, but i never tried it
there's jump coils and call coils, but i think those are just from section to section
i usually just reserve a whole rung for longer circuits
you can usually split it up too by using a %b# coil (internal coil)
i'm pretty new to it myself
SWPadnos: okay, now how do I rotate the cube?
mozmck, rubic cube?
you have to turn off the flat desktop switcher (I don't remember what it's called)
then middle-click on the background and drag
i just peeled off the stickers and moved them around
or ctrl-alt-left or right
ah, the middle click is what I didn't know
oh, and if you have less than 3 desktops, it may be less interesting
I see that. I guess 6 is best?
no, I thought it would put them on top and bottom of the cube...
I use 4 on my laptop, 7 on the camera control desktop, and something in between on other machines
you can use some images for the top and bottom, or make them clear
thanks. that looks neat.
also, you can vary the gamma of the desktops, so you can see windows through the inside
also check out the advanced task switcher
ctrl-alt-tab I think
oh no, windows-key+tab
windows button works in linux? that should be a sin
you can repaint it if you like
weird, changing out my mobo fixed alot of glitches i had with classicladder
yea, i wasnt able to add any more arithmetic expressions before. it would just start changing previous ones, even if i had more than enough set in hal
with the new mobo, i was able to add some without issues
i think i was just pushing the limits of that pc. as soon as i added the ladder stuff for my coolant system, it really started getting flakey
runs nice and smooth now
cool. This is the mill?
yes, the mill
you'll like ladder, you can do so much in it
sweet, my first roll test
you mean you got your machine moving for the first time?
maching moving...ish :P
one axis moving, by hand power
but it is coming along!
* frallzor envies ries
got le gantry setup for adjustment =)
slides pretty well
pretty well, but not awesomely well?
not until it moves without human interaction!
then its awesome
your mill is going to be an android?
it's going to machine out weapons of mass destruction when you're sleeping
maybe you should just run it with g code or something
yes, I call it skynet
the AI that is
I think itll handle the mill pretty well
got myself a stupid little video too of the act of moving an axis *proud*
I am, vimeo, slow converting =)
[21:41:46] <frallzor> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaFJs5Ewu_g&
enjoy this dude until then :P
the sudden silence indicates hate :P
I'll fix that
what kind of knives should I get?
I mean company
so "sharp ones" doesnt help you much then? :P
you're a great dancer frallzor
I wish that was me, he rocks!
his skills are out of this solar system
dont be modest
it looks like shun is a good choice...
anybody have a preference?
kyocera is nice
if looking for that kind of knives
make your own
metal is soooo 1890
ceramic is the way to go!
im considering tiling my mill, so I can claim its some ceramic
just get some cermits
i tilted my mill too, because my floor isnt level
travertine looks so much better
ohh screw you vimeo!
1 frame and audio
aa-danimal-shop: heh... I dont have access to the grinders necessary for shaping the metal for a nice knife
2nd try then
i use my surface grinder lol
man is it just me
or is drinking right from the milk container nasty?
Depends on the container.
My housemate does it and I sware the milk tastes like ass at least a week before its expirey date because of it.
BlackMoon, for you or for everyone else that uses that milk?
aa-danimal-shop: where I used to work I had access to a surface grinder... but not here
for everyone else
If the container is a cow it is just wierd...
who has to drink it a week later after all your mouth bacertia have been multiplying a bajillion times over
I sware I should buy him his own carton of milk then in 2 weeks when its not drank and tastes like complete and utter ass he can finish it.
I like them cows
the ones that go mooh
the very first machine i bought was a surface grinder
BlackMoon: how about straight from the cows utter? :)
aa-danimal-shop: your projects must of taken a very... very.. long time
drilling 2mm holes with a surface grinder is a bitch :P
'i'll just put on my roughing wheel and start work on grinding this 1" bar down to 5/8".. oh sorry, 0.6250 +-0.0001"'
BlackMoon: just make sure the cow dosent have mastitis
BlackMoon, i bought a few other machines shortly after :)
unless you like cottage cheese
but i got a deal i couldnt pass up for my surface grinder
I nearly bid on a Hardinge HCNCII today.
I went to an auction and they wanted like $4000 for what looked like KBC's $3000 surface grinder :(
kodak plant closing auction
99% of the stuff there sold for retail or more then retail
well retail/what it was actualy worth
i paid $400 for my Harig Super 612
like anything remotely new went for more then chinese imports new and often more then american new
with a good mag chuck
The Hardinge didn't. It reached £1400 but that seems cheap just for the tooling that was included.
and anything old and beaten up went for like 20% more then anywhere else would ever pay in good condition
and that was before 30% auction fees and tax
auctions arent usually too good for machines, unless it's one noone wants
andypugh: you went to the kodak auction too?
oh, you mean some other auction, sorry
No, this was a Selex auction today. I posted about the lathe to the mailing list, but couldn't get to the IRC to mention it here.
i got my whole office set at an auction
With 3 hours to go the Hardinge lathe was at £130.
yea 1400 is a good price for a moderate condition lathe, moreso if it has any tooling
desk, chairs, computer, printer, fax, copier, cradenza and hutch, file cabinets, etc
'I did'nt even know what a cradenza was, but I got one now!'
hahah i didnt know!
[22:07:41] <andypugh> http://www.ppauctions.com/online/index.php?a=1002&b=37601
it was funny, they only showed a picture of the desk and computer, and when i went down there, they were like "here's your stuff!", i was like, uhhh.... i think i need to make a few trips
I could have gotten a pretty nice old mill
oh shit nice
but I have no room at all =(
faulty screen hahaha killjoy
Big deal, I would convert to EMC anyway.
thats like wtf where would I get one of those.
Well yea you'd pertty much have to
kinda sad to rip all that out though... but at that price, still worth it
wtf is up with that GIANT control panel on it though?
The chances are that any screen would work I reckon.
andypugh: what you think its just some VGA shit?
On some level, yes.
BlackMoon, if you think that's giant, you should have seen the control i removed from my hardinge lathe
it weighed about 8oolbs
aa-danimal-shop: is that like, a full manual input control suit or something?
Or at a more basic level, it's HT and scan coils..
enjoy this picture for now :P
andypugh: I guess im just not leet enough to consider jurry rig swaping CRT's over
frallzor: hey that looks like its going somewhere!
here's what my lathe came with: http://www.cnccontrolsolutions.com/optomizedpictures/HNC205.jpg
thats not my lathe though
frallzor, : looks great!
frallzor: so many peoples homemade CNC stuff is made outta cardboard and toothpicks, Great to see someone use some SERIOUS steel!
indeed it does, just need to align properly tomorrow, drill and tap then X is done
BlackMoon just following the plans :P
its a mechmate =)
frallzor: you still had to pick good plans!
I just went for the one that had biggest working area :P
I assume your gonna route 4x8 sheets of wood?
let me convert that mumbo jumbo to something I understand
its a plywood sheet
I mean, I see giant router and I instantly think 'Feed plywood in, pull product out'
(well, plus some glueing and screwing but whatever)
damn limies :)
more like 5.5x9
ah great then
lots of space for fixtures and such
issues finding the board to put as "bottom" though
seems to be hard to find here
Yea.. iv seen DIY vacuum tables before
wonder that a 5.5x9 around an inch thick alu costs
usally like a cross hatch pattren with holes drilled in it, with another plate underneath it thats got a similar pattren but bigger grooves and no holes
you apply vacuum to the under plate and plug up any unneeded holes in the top plate and insert gasket material
even a couple PSI will produce thousands of pounds of clamping force on a sheet of plywood.
I think the top plate is usally disposable too so you can cut into it when needed
(Can be made on the router easily enough)
I need a new bloody caliper too
old one gave up completely today =(
tryed new battery?
k im outta ideas
the readings are just waaaay off now, tried all tricks of the trades
im sure you allready riped it apart and lost some screws like I did.
mitutoyo here I come
get it wet?
na it just "died" on me
but what happends with the vacuum if you cut straight throught the plate? :)
MrSunshine: well your not supposed to cut ALL the way through the plate :)
why not? :P
yea, mitutoyos are really good, i've had the same set for about 12 years, used heavily daily
...... Because of loss of vacuum? :P
BlackMoon, ahh smart ...
mitutoyo pisses me off with thier mocking prices.
if it was like $50 sure.. $80 maybe... $200? wtf.
a nice caliper aint that expensive
* BlackMoon still uses some $20 crappy digitial calipers
havent let me down yet! still accurate even after a drop.. Not that buying a new pair would kill my bank.
* frallzor is happy today too, got the bulb for the electronics
And by accurate I mean still within +-0.001" whenever I whip out my micrometers
usally +-0.0005, its display limit.
a bulb for an indication light
(Mind you, my micrometers are also $20 each....)
I looked extra hard to find the leet micrometers with the digital readout though. :P
(the.. dial digital readout that is, no batterys to change here!)
mitutoyos are about $90
Well, still gotta read the vernier for 0.0001" but oh well)
vernier caliper also known as guessing stick, surprisingly accurate these days even the cheap sh*t
aa-danimal-shop: man KBC really rips me off then :(
archivist: hehe. Yea im amazed how well verniers work
I test mine with some glass micrometer testing standards
I test mine with the $20 chinese standards that where included with my micrometers
BlackMoon, maybe that's for the waterproof ones with the output cable
of course, for all I know they where ground to match the micrometers. :P
i just got the regular old black and yellow ones
some places here are selling black carbon fiber calipers good for only 0.01"
like its not that they are inaccurate, its just they only display to 0.01"
the cheap chineese ones have quite a bit of deflection in them compared to the decent ones
aa-danimal-shop: oh, I allways close by pressureing the jaws
also, I keep the 'lock' screw ever so slightly tightened
sorta like a gib
andypugh, re hobbing thread, I noted some are not thinking straight, I did produce some gcode to demonstrate a straight rack form cutting an involute a long time ago
never more then 0.001" wrong when im paying attention.. and no more then 0.004" if im just quicking testing something
if its critical out comes the micrometers
I have a baaaad habit of using the calipers on the lathe while its spinning :)
archivist: you just rotate the gear while moving the rack right?
to make the involute the proper form for the gear tooth count, reguardless what it is
some of the gear shapers do that
yea its the cool/slow way of making any size gear without having a billion cutters
"Shaving" I thiknk they call it.
[22:32:35] <frallzor> http://vimeo.com/9948337
Oh yea, hobbing should also do it
because thats basicly the same process
Hobbing is the fast way to make andy size without lots of different cutters. But needs odd geometry.
cut, move gear, cut, move gear
I thought a hob was just rack form teeth
with lots of fun cutting in all the relief angles and such
The cuttter axis and the gear axis are not perpendicular.
Oh yea because its a helix
never noticed that reading about gearmaking
nice frallzor! is that in a bedroom or something? lol
come to think of it, the hob style gearmaking iv seen on lathes was allways to mate with a worm gear, usally from the same threading operation that made the hob.
That's the bit I can't decide how to address. My axes are all perpendicular.
its called a garage aa-danimal-shop
oh didnt look like a garage
or maybe yanks call it car hole :P
andypugh: well, how about making helical gears? :P
maybe it just looks small because it's for those tiny british cars :)
I have considered it, but then the mathematics gets tricky.
I wouldnt know, im swedish and drive a volvo
andypugh: would'nt two incorrectly gears made by this process mate?
I mean, its just dependant on the hob helix angle
oh lol i thought all you people over there drive lil cars
the other option is you can try the free wheel style of hobbing
If you have perpendicular axes then you need to feed a proportion of the cut distance into the axis phasing in a way that makes my head hurt.
where your hob drives the gear blank itself
sometimes a pregnashed blank to help keep it indexed and everything
i'm part swedish
but iv heard of people just feeding it in and getting it to work, like knurling
and i enjoy swedish fish
and swedish meatballs
Yes, but you seem to be assuming that I want to make gears, whereas really I want to make a hobbing machine :-)
I enjoy swedish girls
andypugh: Nonsense, Everyone wants to make gears!
frallzor, i'm with you there
I mean when I bought my mill thats what I told myself, id be making gears and slots all day long.
Not that iv gotten around to making either yet but..
Yeah, I bought my machine to make a clock, then decided it would be easier and faster if it was CNC, so started converting it. That was 18 months ago.
except better :P
Volvo == Geely
[22:40:37] <BlackMoon> http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=40160
Volvo make Peugeot engines for Ford, but don't use them themselves. Ford make engines for Peugeot, Jaguar and Landrover, but don't use them themselves.
you said that allready.
I don't understand the auto industry, basically.
oh, the 2nd part was backwards.
well its an industry that thinks a $20,000 machine should'nt last more then 10 years of light use with full maintence.
And does whatever they can to redesign it EVERY year and make parts of last years model incompatable with this for no pratical reason whatsoever
what exactly was wrong with cars of 10 years ago?
cars don't look any better then they did..
infact many are downright ulgyer.
and has made the maintence and repair of these cars as horriable as humanly possable.
Legislation is the main driver.
Right, legislation is the reason why the brake light cover of no two cars on the face of the planet are interchangable and they charge you $150 for some injection molded clear plastic that you can't even buy except from a auto wrecker a few years after you buy the car brand new.
Or that body panels..well, forget getting new body panels
and good luck getting a patch installed
with todays micro thin galvinized metal
BlackMoon: Dude, red tape, any auto parts store, $2
Jymmm: should'nt have to is my point
andypugh: to replace a rusted or damaged body panel
The cars seem to not rust anything like they used to though.
In fact, I don't know when I last saw a rusty car.
if cars where remotely standardised you'd be able to just buy new body panels and slap them on in an hour
BlackMoon: This isn't communist China... We have choices!
andypugh: well how about a dented one
or a scraped up one
actually the marina rear light was used on land rover or range rover
Throw it away and buy a new one :-)
andypugh: thats pertty much what the auto manufactures would want you to do.
archivist: And probably a TVR
oh your car has a scratch? sorry we don't fix scratchs, you'll have to scrap it and get insurance to buy you a new one, don't worry, the deductable will only quadruple.
it was the discovery
Jymmm: too many choices are a dangerious thing
(Don't get me started on starbucks)
Jymmm: ok how about a noob in the insert section of a catalog
Now THATS a dangerious thing.
I JUST WANT A LARGE DAMN COFFEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At least to wallets.
Somebody seems to have assasinated the designers at Peugeot, their cars have gone from looking good to looking hideous.
Jymmm: iv seen my brother wait in line for 15 mins at a tim hortons to get a coffee
we could of made the coffee at home faster then that.
ya know.. the place we left 5 mins before passing the tim hortons
BlackMoon: So, your brother is a dumbass. what can I say
and you know his reply? 'the line sure is short today!'
Why do people look at me funny when I say I like instant coffee better?
Jymmm: got that right.
but sadly, so many other people are dumbasses too :(
andypugh: I drink instant so I dont wste a whole pot. It's perfect when you just want ONE cup in the evening.
andypugh, my mundano diesel engine ran away today, something odd in the governor I reckon, had to switch off quickly
andypugh: Though, I will admit that my camp coffee beats anything I've ever had.
What model year / engine?
1999 I think
and it surges and black smokes
Runaway could be turbo bearings, as could the smoke.
another symptom is flatspot and extra diesel knock
Turbo bearings can leak oil straight into the intake air, and then it doesn't matter how little fuel you put in, it still runs.
I can offer you a good deal on a lovely shiny new Mundaneo
hehe, absolutely no spare money, very negative equity here
do you have one in beige?
how do you shut off a diesel if something starts spueing fuel into the air intake?
Or do you just stick it in neutral and run away?
switched off and luckily it started slowing, was parked in a petrol station
I had a hell of a day yesterday, driving cars as they came off the line in Genk (Belgium) until 5pm, then drove back to the UK, got back to the office at 11pm and writing emails until midnight. That's what I call a day's work.
Stick it in neutral and run away.
More modern ones have a diagnostic that spots the fact that revs are high and fuel is zero, and shuts the intake throttle to stall the engine.
actually theis runaway was after a period of tickover while checking tires, so there could be a buildup of oil in the intake
There's the problem, UK Mondeos should be fitted with tyres.
hmm ebay turbo hunting time
hmm, i have just built an rtai kernel (22.214.171.124) patched with rtai 2.8, but when i run the latency test it just sits there idly for a minute and then freezes
Check for oily goop in the intercooler first (if you have one)
There is always some oily goop in the intercooler, but if the turbo bearings have gone there will be lots.
DaViruz: is that running it from the menu?
no, running it from /usr/realtime/testsuite/kern/latency
no x running
OK, that was what I was about to suggest.
I think that one set of instructions suggested that you needed some insmods before you can run that though.
Sorry, not insmod, mknod (I have no idea at all what that does)
[23:11:23] <andypugh> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?TweakingSoftwareStepGeneration
i'll give it a shot but i don't think that's it
You are almost certainly right, those are Dapper instructions.
Have you tried typing "latency-test"?
(I never have, but that is what the page says)
OK, I just tried it, and it doesn't work with my otherwise working system, so probably won't with yours.
i don't have that script (this isn't an ubuntu release)
i've pretty much followed http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?RtaiSteps
(/usr/local/bin/latency-test: Line 140: halrun: command not found.)
i'm pretty sure the problem is with my kernel configuration, but the log files offer no hints, and neither do googling the matter
DaViruz: what is your distro?
I never got those instructions to work. I managed to build an SMP RTAI kernel using some instructions here: http://neo-technical.wikispaces.com/emc2-ubuntu
acemi: CRUX 2.6
anyone know if EMC can control a regular DC brush motor driving a wheel with an optical interruptor (hole on the wheel) so the wheel can accurately lineup a taperpin in a repeatable fashion?
acemi: intel atom N270
intel D945GSEJT board
IIRC there is a bug with atom n270
I saw a massage from RTAI mail list
ds3: You want to drive until the hole appears, and then slowly back to it if it overshoots?
that issue seems to result in the kernel not starting at all
(I am struggling to understand the question)
andypugh: no, I just want to hit it on the first go
andypugh: trying to figure a easy way of adding an ATC to a lathe
Can the motor stop in less than a hole-width?
donno... what if I use a stepper instead then?
acemi: hmm, N270 isnt multicore
and i don't have SMP support enabled
I reckon you ought to be able to do it with the DC motor and Classic Ladder but that is a quess predicated on total ignorance of Classic Ladder
this is the first message of the thread
see this too: https://mail.gna.org/public/adeos-main/2010-02/threads.html
would the overshoot be a predictable amount?
RTAI is baed on adeos
ds3: That's a question about your setup, not EMC.
With a DC motor you could probably use a ratchet arrangement, drive round until the index, then reverse the motor, letting it stall against the pin for a fixed time. Should be repeatable.
hmm, all these problems seems to be in the early boot process, my system boots fine. the general idea seems to be to choose an older processor type, so i'll see if that resolves my issues
andypugh: I see.
andypugh: A stepper would let me side step all of this, right?
most of this comes down to, I donno how accurate a standard taper pin needs to be to align itself
a stepper wouldn't inherently be any better, IMO
you still have to decelerate a stepper, or it'll stall (and you lose position when that happens)
The motor type is fairly irrelevant, the big issue is how you index and clamp
I am not sure how well a taper pin works in that application. The problem with them is that they are designed to stick...
the taper on a taper pin is design to stick like a morse taper?
I reckon you would get a good index with two crossed V-grooves in both the toolpost and top slide, and hardened rollers sat in them. But I am not sure you would get good rigidity.
Assuming we are talking about the same sort of taper pin.
scratch that idea then
I donno, I just heard taper pins are used for alignment and I figure a carasel tool changer would need good alignment to be useful
I play with an old fire engine, that has collars on shafts all over the place (including the cam lobes) that have stayed put for 90 years just on the friction of taper pins.
You would be fine with a faster taper, I reckon, but I don't know where you would find a reamer.
faster means it will look more like a dead center compared to a morse taper?
Yes. But perhaps not that fast.
right, I just wanted to know the 'sense' of the word
Some victorian or other probably worked out the optimal tapers for all sorts of different uses.
it isn't just the reamer; it is also getting a suitable hardened and ground pin with the right taper
a benzomatic + cup of motor oil on a machined peice of O2 probally won't cut it
But I guess that the taper on INT or BT toolholders is fast enough not to lock, whereas the Morse taper is.
archivist: good luck yer yer motor
with yer motor that is
Have a look at cradek's Hardinge toolpost at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWuOZutnjTk
no flash at the moment
That raises up to rotate then clamps down onto some sort of dog arrangement to lock/index
I wonder what changed to make ir
I guess it is pneumatic, but could be hydraulic
IRC work on my phone
that is awesome
droid lacks a youtube player?
rather than the embedded flash player thing
No. There's an app for that :)
YouTube is Google, after all
Now all I need is a bluetooth keyboard
I figured as much
even iPhone has a YouTube app
windows mobile has a youtube app as well
though it won't let you upload
which is a bit crappy as all my videos are taken from the phone
at least wm6.5 lets you use the phone as a mass storage device
Googling shows that you can upload to youtube natively with the iPhone
apparently that's native on recent Android versions as well