it must be true, since who would make up a story like that?
skunkworks365: yo, hard a captentry question for ya
ok - I am technically a Diy'er.. :)
goggle already had it
You could have just aked me.
skunkworks365: I have some 1/4 ply and want to put up some shelves in the garage. there are some now and they use three 2x4's for the brace, toe nailed together. is that strong enough?
Is it for your balloon collection, or your osmium ingot collection?
andy : I just copied and pasted a couple of sentences to to see what it would find :)
skunkworks365: it apears so
skunkworks365: I have no nails, I use drywall screws for everything
I am an over-doer... so I would say not.. (I use mostly deck screws/drywall screws also.)
1/4 plywood? how often are you supporting it?
and as said above - for what?
hang on, let me TRY and draw something up
I would say that 1/4" ply is fine for stopping stuff from falling through a shelf, but isn't strong enough to be a structural part.
It's more about rigidity than strength, 5/8" particle board would be weaker, but stiffer and more suitable.
bottom of drawers are 1/4 usually - so.. (also think of what kind of weight you store in there. ) ;)
and how far they usually span
and they are usually supported all the way around.. most of the time.
what does "1-1/2x8 Threaded Mounting" for a lathe chuck mean?
1.5" diameter, 8 threads per inch
and what is "plain back" ?
clearly I know nothing...
"plain back" lathe, or chuck?
skunkworks365: side view
andypugh: I'm looking for suitable lathe chucks
my lathe spindle has just 3 mounting holes for bolts
sorry computer locked up
skunkworks365: np, so did my brain when drawing that
Do you have pictures of the spindle? Is this a mini-lathe?
the thread should be the thread of the nose of the spindle
My tiny little lathe had a spigot and 3 bolt holes, but that was a toy.
[00:33:01] <awallin> http://picasaweb.google.com/anders.e.e.wallin/JHQLathe2009_11_21#5406654152950596514
plain back usually means there is nothing on the back of the chuck, you have to mount your own adapter plate
that spindle was made to fit an Optimum chuck, so I may go with that...
are those threaded holes?
nope, just holes :)
or is it cam lock?
I think that would be your best bet, though you could easily make an adaptor plate in-situ.
no mechanism, just holes
Cam-lock has a bigger taper
MarkusBec is now known as MarkusBec_away
[00:34:44] <awallin> http://www.amazon.com/Bison-7-800-0500-Inch-Br-univ-lathe-Chk/dp/B0006MZ430
That chuck would need an adaptor plate.
not too difficult to make I guess...
Or perhaps not. It seems that there are at least 2 different chucks in that picture.
wish list: hal components with names ... by the time i get to comp.0., comp.1., comp.3., it'd be nice if they were HiVel, LoVel, TooHot (or whatever human readable meaningful thing user may think of )... (so 'named components')
Indeed not. Bolt any old bit of metal to your spindle. Bore out an accurate register for your spindle. Flip it round and bolt it on properly, machine to suit a chuck.
eh, maybe the signal name (the 'net') suffices... nm
for components made with "comp", this is already there
loadrt mycomp names=fred,wilma,barney,betty
yeh, aint that sweet, like "i'd like an orange flaveored orange colored orange shaped orange' (overload)
with TheaterButter (TM) on top!
(or i get this project done and get back to the picture gui hal builder)
I vote for that
for many HAL components though, the naming thing exists now
loadrt mycomp names=fred,wilma,barney,betty
that's instead of count=4
oh you were serious! i thought you were wishing, cool
no, not wishing
thx, i didnt know that
(though it's in the manuals)
ok, its in the silly manuals, thx
try man comp
awallin: You might find http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page9.html
I think anyway - if you man and2 for example, it should show count=N|names=...
It is possible that the chap who built your lathe was planning to make it into a camlock.
andypugh: thanks, I will have to take measurements on my spindle tomorrow
And that Amazon chuck was expensive. Try eBay for good quality used ones. (a search for "Pratt Burnerd" for example.
Right, time to sleep.
if Valen comes in here tonight, somebody point him to http://filebin.ca/qovwvn/Angela_ETD.pdf
its a paper on how to not use counterbalances ;) (use PID to do similar)
tom3p, doesn't that use a spring? Valen was very upset that someone might suggest using a spring
guess my ears were burning
Jymmm: if you're using 1/4 plywood - my feeling would be you want them a foot on center.. A couple of toe-nailed screws would probably be enough. (again I am an overdoer and I would use thicker substrate - also I would let the angles brace into the other boards.)
also - you would need a board across the front or your going to have some wavy shelves.
Don Streit got a batch of references in that thesis, may he RIP
I'llbuild a frame 8' by 12" for the ply to lay on, just not sure on the braces
your other option is to make some small plates (like truss plates out of 1/4 plywood for gussets(sp))
skunkworks: I'm going to see what HD has for 2x4 metal brackets
or buy some ;)
no, those galvanized things they now use during framing
joist hangers are OK, but those flat plates with the pointy things sticking out (pesudo-nails) are a royal PITA to use by hand
how do you mean?
SWPadnos: No, not the nail plate. They only had 4" 45 deg anyway, I needed 2"
well 4" 6" and 8"
man. this is sad
my phone has a faster upload speed than my home DSL
and close to 1 MBit/sec download speed too (in my basement)
hacking the cell tower has its advantages
I took a closer look, the existing braces are screwed in from front and top
not really surprising that DSL stinks most of the time considering how low the bandwidth is on the lines
I gave 18mbps on dsl
one day, I'll have the time to call my ISP and see if the 16MBit service is available here yet
wow my z axis just went wacky and my machine crashed
hmm my z axis isnt moving at all
hmm now it is
i had to unplug my power supply for a second
what control do you have on it now?
this is my mill, it's already converted
new model or older gecko clones?
geckos were too small
this is the first time i've had an issue
have you ever bought a stereo?
i prefer mono
there's a difference between Emerson watts and Yamaha watts - same with motor drives
they were supposed to have standardized their watts back in the '70s sometime
could be that they overheated
is that RMS, peak, or my favorite "PMPO" (which I think meant "peak max power output" - ie the instantaneous peak)
much more interesting is PMPOWS
i upped the microsteping, i wonder if they're working harder
i also upped the velocity and acceleration now that i think of it
the enclosure seemed a little warm inside
might be time for a fan
what bugs me is the overload light wasnt on
hmmm yea i re-routed some wiring so i could close the enclosure door all the way
i bet that was the straw that broke the cammel's back
less air flow
well it works now that i unplugged it and plugged it back in. I guess i'll throw a fan on there to see what happens
fan is installed
100cfm dayton, should keep them nice and cool
Valen did you get the paper?
i wish i could put a thermostat on it
Valen: "This thesis explores the PID control of equilibrated systems, and compares the results to
the PID control of a common method of equilibration, the mass counterweight."
Through modeling, simulating, and testing of the two systems, the equilibrated
system response was found to be superior to the mass counterweight in measures of
settling time and peak overshoot.
[02:57:31] <tom3p> http://filebin.ca/qovwvn
where's the code behind pyvcp widgets?
now *that* is a darned good question
I think most of it is in lib/python/pyvcp_widgets.py
yep, i just chgd the text size on dial widget ( was too damn big )
well its in yourripdir/lib/python/pyvcp_widgets
yes - note the lack of a prepended "/" :)
ooh a supository question
I don't know nothin' about suppositories
dan1mal_garage: , is there a PC mobo in the cabinet?
nm. a modern speed controlled 12V fan couldn't be scaled to a mains one
assuming you are using a mains fan, of course
can an SCR be switched at pwm rates?
wish I could find a service manual for my AB/Giddings/Electrocraft drives
matty, no, there isnt a mobo in there
just a power supply and the drives
the fan is 110v though
i could probably get a temp probe and make it turn the fan on and off via emc though
it'd be cool if i could do a variable speed setup with it, but i think that would be expensive to do
how do you setup the touchy inteface for 800X600?
Dave911_ is now known as Dave911
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this thing wants to be 2 axis http://cgi.ebay.com/Delta-drill-press-17-Bench-top_W0QQitemZ140365195418
huh ? :)
stuff like full radius mills or whatever they are called (round tip on an endmill) can they be plunged into a materia l?
ball nose end mill
[Global Notice] Hi all, we appear to be having some connectivity issues with our main US hub, as a result of this we are temporarily without services, if this affects your channel please contact staff in #freenode for assistance. We're looking into the issues as we speak. Thank you for your patience.
hi guys - trying to install dev pacjkage from git, have followed instructions and getting the following error
root@steve-desktop1:/home/steve# cd emc2-dev root@steve-desktop1:/home/steve/emc2-dev# git pull --rebase Current branch master is up to date. root@steve-desktop1:/home/steve/emc2-dev# cd src root@steve-desktop1:/home/steve/emc2-dev/src# ./autogen.sh ./autogen.sh: line 6: autoconf: command not found ./autogen.sh: line 9: autoheader: command not found root@steve-desktop1:/home/steve/emc2-dev/src#
you have to install autoconf/autotools
or whatever it happens to be called in your package manager
[Global Notice] Hi all, we're having some major issues with connectivity at the DC hosting one of our hidden hubs, I'm going to re-route around it, which will cause about twice as much noise as the splits already made. Apologies for the inconvenience.
hi, does anyone have a link on how to connect two switched-mode powersupplies in parallel? for getting twice the current
I remember there was a pic somewhere with diodes or smthn. so that the two regulator circuits don't start to compete or oscillate or whatever
awalli1 you can connect the gnd together and the diodes in the positive lines
i love having a cnc mill more and more .. how can someone that like fabricating stuff not have one? :)
its a small price to pay for the accuracy it gives =)
mine has been about 1500$ so far and thats including endmills etc
need alot more mills tho :P
is there any way to make comp look where g++ normally looks for header files?
i've got a program written but it's using a lot of libraries that are not in the /usr/src/emc2/ directory
or is there some other reason it doesn't look there to begin with
i'm starting to wonder if this is going to work at all
err /usr/include/emc2/ rather
mikegg, are you trying to make userspace or realtime components?
(hopefully userspace, since you can't use C++ in the kernel)
hmm. ultimately, the program i'm writing will function as a tool probe
which would be realtime?
theoretically, that should b realtime, yes
there are also many libraries that can't be used in kernel, so it may not be necessary for comp to have additional include paths
tlab is now known as tlabaway
but I could write a userspace function that uses C++ to control a bar graph with pyVCP or something?
well, sort of
userspace components don't talk to each other except via HAL pins, so you can't use pyvcp from within another component
but you can make a HAL file that loads both pyvcp and your component and connects their pins together
so how do I compile my component? because comp --install fails all kinds of different ways
and I haven't even started with the code, just the #include stuff
uh - the first thing I'd look at is whether you really need all those includes :)
hmm. definitely yes.
next, you can look at what actually needs to be done to compile your program - if comp won't do it for you, you may need to add your code to the emc2 make system or look into how to compile an external module against EMC2
wow this is so far over my head
I can compile it with g++ !
ok, that's another avenue - make it work without emc2, then modify it to work with emc2
right, it already works without EMC2. it
I just need the program to tell EMC2 whether or not tool touch has occured
and maybe have EMC2 tell the program how fast the spindle is going...but that can wait
ok. that needs to be realtime, which means it can't be c++ code, which means that you shouldn't need g++ to compile it
can you pastebin the first bit of the program?
the libraries i'm need aren't real time
well, that's a problem
i got the 'sort-of-edm' hal axis running between limits using analog input for velocity.
when it hits upper limit, it can move back inside the bounds (only neg dir allowed at top & similar for the bottom limit)
the upper limit would be arrived at if there was a long lasting short, and if cleared, it could advance
the lower limit is like the finished dimension, and the tool can dwell there while sparking out BUT could retract for a bit of dirt :)
SWPadnos: feeling better?
did you fix your homing?
I'm not sure how I'd handle twin leadscrews. by preference I'd tie them together with a toothed belt and just have one set of end & home switches
heh - that is how I am thinking of doing it... mainly because I am lazy.
dad found a piece of cast iron about 18X26X1... the machine shop here is going to mill it flat/square and drill a bunch of holes in it 1 inch on center.
it will be the table of the circuit board mill.
he thinks it was the weight above the rear wheels of an old van.
that way you can mill pcb's while driving in the snow.
after they get done with it - I will see how flat it is.. might find local shop that can grind it flat. (we don't have a grinder big enough)
the machine can flatten its own table, surely
all nighter with a slow feed endmill
most likely I will be milling on a spoil board of some kind.. so that can be flattened.
I'll probably use one of those, just to keep the tool out of the nuts holding the table on. a bit of wood is a bit of wood :)
I made a nasty leadnut today out of 2mm steel sheet. I reckon the worst it can do is wreck the screw which costs ~$3 per meter
If I get jiggy wid it, I could be firing this up by tomorrow night
nah nah nah nah nah nahhhhh
hey all, I have a question... if I would search for a store to buy transformers (toroidal) in teh miami area, how/where should I find such a store?
ries: are you sure you don't want a chinese switched-mode PSU? might be cheaper, smaller, and lighter
awallin: that's fine we me to, as long as it can drive my stepper motors (5 of 4Amp each)
But i have such a hard time finding a store where I can buy it... I cannot buy online because I am there for a holliday next week
I just got two 48V 7A supplies from a chinese ebay seller. free shipping (albeit slow)
how many volts and how many amps do you need?
an dthat's my problem.. I am just in Floriday (miami/ key west) for 6 days and then heading back to hom (Ecuador)
awallin: 38V / 300VA
sorry I've never been to florida....
I am trying to google it up, but my god, google is bad nowdays for searching such a thing
if I search for 'electronics store miami' then google comes up with appel.com :s
don't know about any stores in Florida, but could you have a ps or transformer shipped to where you will be?
try the user mailing list, there are three emc users in Florida
mozmck: I life in a country where shipping is very hard to do due to customs fraud
I mean have the ps shipped to florida
if that is possible...
ries: maybe http://www.mpja.com/
google it ( he is in florida )
I just noticed I need to serach in google for electronic components to get better matches
they wont be light, not 1kw
mozmck: I don't want to take the risc shipping it we booked two days in key west, after that we will just drive around and find nice places
I see. mpja is about 5 hours from key west it looks like...
Would something like this work? http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=16490+PS
may be I should buy two of these : http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=13657+PS
I can drive 2 steppers with each one...
ries: that would probably work. we used two of the 24v models in series to get 48v to run systems with 4 620 oz/in steppers at around 3.2 amps each.
maybe he can ship to your hotel (if you want to hand carry stuff)
tom3p: the things is that we will be moving around
I know where I will stay tomorrow and the next day, but then I am not sure
ries: google 'miami electronic surplus' lotsa stuff
My motors are max 4Amp but I calculated 2/3 of total power consumption giving it around 300VA needed, I know one guy that has a 300VA transformer and works just fine
tom3p: you see.. I am non native english speaker... google should know!!! thanks :)
should be plenty of Spanish shops in Florida
is 300VA bigger than you'd find in an audio amp?
* MattyMatt goes dumpster diving even on holiday
MattyMatt: but I don't speak spanish!!!!
MattyMatt: it's indeed also used in a power amp
[21:19:12] <tom3p> http://www.yellowbot.com/tags/electronicparts/Miami,%20FL%2033172/page1.html
nice map with lots stores in small area
thanks again tom
i guess chances of finding one from one of those are 100%
"7 days warranty against DOA and functionality"
* jepler measured his spindle speed with a PWM LED. It is about 18krpm unloaded.
an led photointerrupter reported 18000 pulses per minute? ( having trouble understanding pwm led )
The AVR's PWM generator allows setting the TOP value, which changes the PWM frequency.
so I made an LED be on for a fixed time, then off for a variable time
MMTB people buying tv's: http://www.koelnmedien.de/web/bilder/panasonic-103/panasonic-103-5.jpg
then I shined the LED at the turning spindle, which has a black mark at one spot
I varied the off time until the mark stayed stationary
a stroboscope :) cool
a strobe tach
then I used my scope to measure the on+off time and that gives speed in RPM
except I used more words to explain it
I tend to simplify things :0
actually I could also directly read the PWM registers but I didn't get the answer I expected; it was off by a factor of 4 as it turns out
I read the datasheet again on PWM and now I understand why
* jt-plasma is glad he picked up all those 6-32 screws the electricians dropped while building destroyers back early 70's
your aging yourself!
I'm a veteran cosmic rocker
age is only a number that I do not care about
however i wish i was still a teenager
this grown-up stuff is for the birds
"old age aint fer sissies"
as long as I'm reasonably healthy and can maintain my gravitational attraction at a comfortable level I'm happy
i'm not looking forward to 30
forward? are you Dr. Who or Merlin ?
(gets younger as time passes )
still got a couple years
er a year and a half
anyone know anything about anodizing in here?
i'm anodizing some parts right now and the thinner parts seem to be anodizing, but the thicker sections arent there yet
any idea why?
do the thin parts also have much lower surface area?
sorry, it's all on the same part
i have multiple parts in the tank, all about the same size, all with the same issue
too little you think?
not enough amps?
no - the smaller areas may have a higher electric field, which may cause more current to flow in those parts, which anodizes those areas faster
so it just needs to cook a little longer, basically
once they get anodized, they're insulators, so the other parts will start to get affected more
tank temp isnt too hot, might be a little too cool actually
probably low 60's
i have good agitation
anodizing more or less requires a certain number of amp-seconds per square inch. when those amps flow through that square inch doesn't matter too much
oh - actually temperature could also be a factor - the thinner parts might actually heat up a little due to cyurrent flow, which might cause the reaction to happen faster as well
I'm just speculating here - I don't anodize, I just make controls for large power supplies for people who do :)
oh i got a good question for ya then... how hard is it to make a way to adjust the current variably?
i have power supplies from machines that are a bit beefier than mine
i'd like to maybe use one for anodizing
theres lotsa info on the web for diy anodizing, but its as varied as diy bread baking.
i get confused easily
and i guess your materials are not aluminum
they are, but they're 7075
so half of what's on the web doesnt relate
the thinner cross sections plate faster than thicker?
which didnt make sense to me since i thought it was all based on surface area, not thickness
but SWPadnos made some sense so i'll just run it a little longer and see
SWPadnos: what does current density have to do with it? isnt the current 'absobtion' equal all over the part?
tom3p, no, I wouldn't assume that current distributes evenly over the entire part, unless the part is a very simple shape
yea, mine arent simple, they're bicycle chainrings
hmmm. no, you'd probably needa somewhat complex shape (something like a parabola or something) to make the current even
thx, it sounds impossible to get even effect, unless theres some saturation on the thin sections that lets the thicker catch up
well, the anodizing occurs proportional to current flow, and it insulates as it goes, so as portions get anodized, they lose conductivity, and the process stops where it's "done"
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