* frallzor has a rule never to trust the reseller
MarkusBec_away is now known as MarkusBec
I can read ppl pretty good.
BigJohnT: You old dawg you!
on the wifes laptop watching bones
BigJohnT: Hey, do you do a LOT of smoking?
almost every weekend
gotta install a machine tomorrow... so smoking is out
BigJohnT: Any tips for a beginner?
who has nothing
what are you looking to smoke?
can't help with that
do you have any smoking apparatus or smoking consumables
BigJohnT: dont bogart that joint my friend.
smoked jerky or wings yea
BigJohnT: I dun know, baby back ribs, slab of beef, whatever I cna get at the store.
I have a Bradley smoker that I highly modified
why was it modded?
the original on is ok for higher temps but sucks when you do jerky
temperature control, circulation fan, extra racks
PLC controls it all :)
What the hell is this, a smoker or environmental testing?!
ahhh it is an uber JT smoker
Well, lets say the Junior version
the Bradley smoke generator is the heart fo the smoker
Again, this isn't an environment testing chamber... no generators
how about wood you like? duriations, good cut of meat for first try, etc.
Kinda a try before doing a lot of investment
some recipes here http://suburb.semo.net/jet1024/index.html
BigJohnT: All the links goto the same place "About This Place"
for low and slow temperature control is the name of the game
go to food
Jymmm: have you been drinking?
No, I went to "Smoking"
"Hunting" is the same thing
some of the links are not done yet
anyhow all you need is a chamber a heat source and wood chips to smoke.
dinner time here ttul
is there a way to log a latency-test to a file
so I can see if I have a periodic problem
I believe I figured it out!
I tried the one in the user directory
and its a no go
the one in the kern directory works though so good
MarkusBec is now known as MarkusBec_away
Hello everybody, i was wondering if it is possible to enable the acpi support to power off the machine with the button in the ubuntu emc distribution without recompiling ?
thanks in advance
I don't have a question in regards to software but since CNC people are here I think someone might know the answer, does anyone know where I can purchase blocks of HDPE?
did you check mcmaster and msc
no but I will, actually I need to go now - thanks for the suggestions(I just looked them up, I forgot places like those existed)
>>know where I can purchase blocks of HDPE
Google "plastic distributors"
I bought some on ebay
BigJohnT: nice site, when you get it goin, look at this for spicy sausages http://www.khiewchanta.com/archives/thai-sausages/
them lil' green chiles are hot sombitches!
yay, the bridgeport is back together and working again
just goes to show it doesn't pay to make too good machinery
it's only 25, jeez, shouldn't be worn out yet
that's pretty much brand new.
I've run some machine tools from like the 1900s
and they were still doing production
we had this one horizontal mill from 1865 I think it was
yeah for a manual machine early 1980s IS brand new
thing was beautiful
but for CNC it's pretty darn old
it was all mechanical
some of those with the power feeds etc are really amazing
yup with the driveshafts all over it
so namy levers
so many extra parts for want of some motors and encoders
heck everytime the CNC machine got fired up only one guy in the shop would get close to it
and he'd puzzle over the notebook for days
I bet everyone's been there a few times
me i went nowheres near it
we hardly used the thing
I think it was for one job in the shop
so we had our 120Hz set for a year and then a friend who spent the last 6 months reverse engineering TV sets saw it and said "that's running at 60Hz." Sure enough, the default is 60Hz, don't ask me why. So he changed the setting to 120Hz and it hurts twice as much now.
guy i used to know got a CNC-1 given to him
cnc is all about cutting arcs... manuals are just fine for many things.
we had this one mill a Milwaukee #3 thing looked like the prow of a battleship
you literally walked into it to run it
something like that I don't think I'd want it under computer control!
if things messed up it'd eat your house
I mean I'd run it with a 3" hogging mill on it and it'd go through steel like it was balsa wood
there are cnc machines that could hog a new house out of a big enough piece of metal
eric_unterhausen not in my house there won't ever be!
having acpi on will kill the latency
anybody here speaking german?
anyways.. we wrote together some stuff about our mill and the toolpath parts and put it together on http://camgeeks.de/
roh what do you use for CAM?
roh I'll have to Google that thank you.
its linked on http://camgeeks.de/software.html
roh yes but I don't read german
[05:20:17] <roh> http://code.google.com/p/heekscad/
the cnc is a plugin into the cad
roh I'm still in he process of building my machine now
this guy needs a squeeze bottle for his coolant milk
[05:22:49] <pfred1> http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lpgMldGi1O4/Sl-EwDxhxWI/AAAAAAAAALQ/8vEvuHbhuvA/s1600-h/IMAG0215.JPG
thats just plain old silly there!
that and some parallels probably wouldn't kill him to have either
this guy i mean i thought some of the stuff I did was rough!
I like this guys style!
well.. we are learning bit by bit ourselfes still, but i think it can always be 'uglier' ;)
[05:26:38] <pfred1> http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lpgMldGi1O4/Sl-Ewk5GPlI/AAAAAAAAALg/ly8yt9DdVtY/s1600-h/IMAG0224.JPG
roh: this group, is there 1 machine that several people work on? ( and i read it when you posted it on #cam, but couldnt find out what a SuperBox was )
it dont get much uglier than that I'm afraid
that looks like a still out of Quake or something
tom3p yes, we only got one mill. its a small shared workshop (<70squaremeters) with different tools
roh: thats a very good idea, esp in a city.
* pfred1 loves shop pictures
pfred1 i think on raumfahrtagentur.org we have more
wheres Vince with a ShamWoW!
"You know the Germans always make good stuff!"
so whats a SuperBox? a parallel port interface?
tom3p the #SuperBox is a metal box with 2 powersupplies (for more current) and 3 stepperdrivers are + a board to connect them and the sockets to the parport
[05:32:37] <roh> http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/File:Raumfahrtagentur_cnc_mill.jpg
is a old picture
the box top right
ah, nice, like a rack mount
roh well you showed me yours want to see mine?
which reminds me.. need to make new pictures of the milling room.
the spindle has a control panel, can the spindle be controlled by emc also?
roh how much current is "more current"?
roh like how much current does your machine use?
[05:36:22] <tom3p> http://www.optimum-machines.com/products/milling-machines/bf-20-vario/index.html
oh I thought was for the CNC
pfred1 for the steppers
pfred1 the psu are both 48V and connected in parallel
* pfred1 has a Rong-Fu 32
roh yes 48V is voltage current is amperage you could always say wattage I can do the math
pfred1 dunno right now. would need to check.
roh ah OK
tom3p thats for the manual mill. no cnc
my mill cost me $600
tom3p and without taxes
or was it 800?
I donno was quite a few years ago now
did your group buy a cnc mill or convert it yourself?
we bought it as cnc
[05:42:02] <roh> http://syil.com.cn/index_en.asp
is the manuf. afaik
woo I dig the name, Speedmaster!
I think i met him once at a biker convention
wow! if I tried to run my machine at 24,000 RPM spindle it'd holy handgrenade on me!
i'd like to see them w/o the sheet metal ( syil certainly has gone slick )
the syil page doesnt show the machine anymore. seems to be last years model already ;)
those are some huge nozzles for that tiny bit
to be fair, we first thought its a good idea to have a machine with handshweels, so we can learn how to use them that way also, but in the end.. if i need to decide that again, i'd vote 'no handwheels' now.
roh well it is good to get a feel for the materials speeds and feedrates
roh you do know how to setup for cuts right?
roh like different materials and bit diameters need different speeds
pfred1 i am aware of the complications. got some people here and loads of books.
PI X DIA X RPM / 12 = SFPM
all you need to know is material SFPM
i think ive learned the most important bits by now.
like what you usually work aluminum?
sfpm? everything metric here.
I don't know the right speeds for aluminum in metric it is all the same
in heekscnc, he actually asks the brinnel hardness of the material, asks carbide/hss tools, teeth, and tries to figure a feedrate
feed is different than speed
speed depends on the cutter, and we usually start at a feedrate of 120 to 200 mm/min in the gcode and start at a feed-override of 50% and up it gradually
tom3p thats new stuff.. havent tried that out yet
but the most important thing is the right spindle speed
its so new it doesnt work yet, but it was nice hat he's thinking that way
you don't just crank it all the way up and let it fly you know?
the cutter has to work at a certain surface speed
depending on the material and cutter composition
pfred1 :) .. we're amateurs, but the first blood has dried up and the cutters got replaced.
roh yeah what I'm trying to teach you will make it work
roh for every material and cutter there is only one right speed
it is called cutter surface speed calculation
like if I'm off by 20 RPM working steel it screws the cut up
doesn't that vary with diameter and toolpath also?
of course it matters the diameter
<pfred1> PI X DIA X RPM / 12 = SFPM
DIA is tool diameter
PI X DIA is circumfrence
DIA in inch 12 changes to feet
well I'm sure there is a metric equilivalent
beats trying to thread metric on a lathe
which is techically impossible to do :)
so don't go there with metric so much better high and nightyness
doesnt that only depend on the gears?
but anyways steel is 100 SFPM using HSS
no metric threads run by ratio
they're garbage ;)
learn how to do surface speed calcs
and you'll be like wholly crap finally it is working
it mostly is for now
stuff will make chips galore and finish will be like a mirror
did most of the hacking on emc to have our repstrap working lately
well if you not figuring out your surface bit speed you just getting lucky
the larger syil machine use hiwin rails and bearing, not dovetail, quite sophisticated for hobby machines.
roh you use same bit all the time?
nope. we have different ones
roh OK you change speeds between them?
fenn: the syil site linked to the NIST of japan, the NAIST http://www.naist.jp/index_j.html
roh OK so bigger bit you go slower right?
roh because at same RPM bigger bit has faster peripheral speed
roh yeah well with calculation you can know exactly the right speed to run
you wouldnt believe how many good books there are about the hands-on part of milling ;)
I don't need to
I learned from germans that predate the war
especially the school and toolmakers ones from the GDR
that can tell what kind of steel it is by smelling it!
Ok your loss if you never want to know how to do it right
hoho a swag got me this http://www.naist.jp/index_e.html
because with machining theres the right way and every other way
pfred1: i was apprenticed to old volkswagen guys, they'd make you file rounds and whack you with the file if it was round
volks during the war
'kindershiessen' was all you'd do, break edges, drill water lines...
yeah I got lucky the shop foreman gave me any job and if i could do it I did it
untill they trusted you and you began to mill, then grind
and pretty much I could do it
I'll show you what i used to make let me find one
[06:09:00] <pfred1> http://www.dempseyandco.com/DSCN0117.JPG
I've made a few of those!
it can do any angle od radius
or angle even
yah, i used them to grind electrodes
thats an old one there
that one I didn't make!
but id' ruf the form in by eye with a norbirtie stick, so the diamond didnt do so much work
eally selling the diamonds was all that was keeping the company alive when I worked there
the shop was just the playroom for the founder
poor old Henry
but yeah we'd rebuild them and the boss had me do that
I'd have to take it all apart and resurface the whole thing and reset it all back up
so it was like new again
remeber feeling the wheel with you finger, to see if there were any single stones sticking out? then touching it with the crap 6"scale to remove the 1 or 2 stones that did stick out?
that only cost $3,600 to do :)
or wait no the new ones were $3,600 a rebuild was only $600
but I'd do like 4 a day
good ole jack Shit tools
that or I'd do production making the clamps
I wish I could find a pic of the clamps they were engenius
[06:17:20] <pfred1> http://www.jstool.com/WRKHLDG.htm
nice work, gotta go
do any lathes link spindle speed to cross-slide position, to maintain linear velocity?
if 20rpm off can ruin a cut, it seems to be the only proper way to cut a taper
MattyMatt I was talking about milling
not to say that itisn't applicable to lates too
lathes too even
MattyMatt and speeds are dependant on the machine too
MattyMatt I ain't ot the worlds greatest machine
MattyMatt the crappier the machine the more sensitive it is to cutting speeds
harmonics and all of that
yeah. I put my spindle (cheap demel) on top of my machine and it resonated like a guitar. I need to watch that when I reinforce it
my plan at one stage had bicycle spokes as stiffeners, so they be tuned
MattyMatt mass is the key
yeah machine gets heavier daily
theres a reason machine tools are massive and it ain't because machinists fancy fat chix
now the table is on 3x3" timbers, it made the gantry look weak, so I added more wood to them :)
I need some slotted angle for fillets
that's the stuff. it was called handyangle here when still branded
nothing soaks up vibrations quite like cast iron
yeah there are different names
well to reduce vibrations need to take lighter cuts soetimes
I'm telling myself the wooden parts are patterns for the cast version :)
I've been wondering lately why more homebrewers aren't using fiberglass
fiberglass is like superduck tape
you need a large well ventilated shed to do fiberglass
I never noticed the fumes to be too noxious
duck tape sticks to anything forever. fiberglass doesn't. it won't even stick to itself once it's dry
oh i see what you mean if you lay fiberglass onto a dry layer
no you have to rough it up first
yeah. delamination unless you build it all in one continuous operation
but it you layer tacky you can just keep going
I've done lots of fibeglass
got friends who do boats professionally
gelcoat the worls
the works even
people cry about the dust but well I can't say as that bothers me either
it does stink rather, and homebrewers often have delicate people in the home
in my case momma
yeah i usually do all my fiberglassing outside
on cars or boats mostly
they're hard to get into the kitchen
when I've got a boatshed (huge gantry machine with a roof) I'll rehearse whole hulls and then do them in one go
butto me fiberglassing is like welding for everything other than metal sort of
I mean I've seen some people put toether some real rigs with this CNC stuff and it just suprised me I didn't see it used more often is all
something else I've noticed is the peole putting together the roughest machines seem to have more finished work to show off
than people making the nicest machines seem to show
yeah reprap is the extreme :)
and the crappiest machines seem to do rather well
at least from what I can gather from a picture on the Internet
you know the drawer slide specials
I sure do. mine is one
yeah there seems to be nothing wrong with it
these people running around with their ballscrews and THK slides
I'm using 2 pairs under the table
it seems like it is the larger formula that matters more not all the gory little details
I've been researching this a lot and seen a fair sampling I feel now
some people are just off wit hthe machines they build
I made the tool clamp out of ply yesterday. I swore I wouldn't when I first saw that done, but it was easy to do and it'll work
like they're gonna clamp their heads to them and do home brain surgery or something
that is one ultimate goal of robotics
people with their 1200 oz/in stepper blah blah blah
well it gets annoying
like they're all in a pissing contest or something
I'm going the other way
I want to put as little as possible into it and try to get something out of it
I started with that plan
but now I think, hmm acme would be better
I got a couple of jacks here with acme screws in them
I'm going to gut for the leads
yeah these chinese Workmates cost 10pound and have 2
only 6" travel tho, so that's one more limit on my machine. I want 8" Z
though i may just send away for a few rods too it's not too expensive
the taps are though!
yeah the equations change once you've invested much time
I may have to make my own if I go with an HDPE nut or something
ust cut a piece of rod off and grind the cutter on it
it'd thread plastic
bore the nut on a lathe
I only have woodworking lathes
fair point :) ok finish your allthread machine and cnc the nut
so you use a dremel for a spindle?
or add 2 axis cnc to woodwork lathe
how's that working out for you?
planning to use dremel, unless I wear it out first building the machine
easie to just grind a cutter on a piece of rod
I've blown up a few Dremels in my day
quite a few in fact
I thought about pressure injection moulding around the screw, but maintaining the pressure would need existing nuts
so yes go easy on them
you can lamp black it and just pour over it
should braek free when whatever sets
i think nylon moulds better under pressure
I'm not using nylon
nylon is pretty pricy stuff
if you buy it new :)
I don't have access to a supply of used
one PC psu connector would make a nut
can you just melt it down?
I figured you needed something to relax the polymers in it or something
dunno. I'll experiment with solvents, heat & pressure when I have time & space
one thing i have done is cast aluminum
ain't nothing to doing that I'd say making a good burger on the grill is harder to do
* pfred1 made Beercanium !
even for alu, casting under pressure in a die gives better finish
yeah my surface is rough like chicken skin
but I do have a milling machine
Lionel scraped his lathe bed with the side of a plane blade
well I'd be right there with him I'm afraid
my machine can only mill about 12"
so unless it was a mighty small lathe
or you milled it in parts. careful repositioning :)
yeah that don't really work
milled face is all one go
you should see the job i did on the top of part of an anvil
I've thought about trucks with 4 wheels and one grinder. up and down a long bed
man like a mirror it is
I seen car head facers and they mive the head the cutter remains stationary
move the head
big head like 10" in diameter
yeah that's normal I think, for surface grinders. needs big metal
well the cutter head
nah this no grinder
same config machine, afaics tho
at a shop I worked at we had huge surface grinders
like 12 foot long beds
it's ironic that machines can build something just smaller than themselves
which is fine if you want nanotech
well someone has to build the bigger machines
they told me about the guys who'd come in toe hand scrape
do the diamond patterns
with hammers and chisels
one of my personal quotes
I can make you anything with a hammer and a chisel but it may take a while
a friend has 2x 11ft pieces of 8x4 steel channel. I want one for a serious size wood lathe
1/2" thick steel
I have my big steel collection
you sure it's a half an inch thick?
heavy wall structural usually only 3/8s
that and becareful the legsaren't really 90 degrees
man this keyboard I got to junk it
I'm thinking if they were laid out as 4 parallel rails, then make a truck with 6 wheels and a grinder on the 4th rail
dunno could be 3/8. more likely 10 or 12mm, this is england
better off just sliding another bar over it
stell on steel ain't bad
grease it up if you need to
this needs to wait until his garage is built. I'm not bringing these home
I have a tree I'm working into a bench top and I'm going to use a router in a similar fashion to rough it flat
renting a truck isn't expensive guys with flatbeds haul in their off times too for cheap
I'm finding the dremel very nice for strange cuts I couldn't do with normal tools
I got no land
right now my land is a little limited too
all my poperty is intellectual :p so I'm poor
well I got flooded
this is my driveway
[07:58:06] <pfred1> http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs042.snc3/12933_100621593297690_100000495491208_16021_3185953_n.jpg
it usually doesn't look like that
the trees will drink that
its about a half a foot deep
[07:59:42] <pfred1> http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs042.snc3/12933_100608366632346_100000495491208_15687_6208715_n.jpg
I own about 200 foot past the treeline there
whole property is 200x900
in UK, you are allowed to turn 1/2 your garden into shed, without planning permission :)
I wonder if that limit apples to 3 acre plots
in Holland, you need planning permission to chop down any tree over 5 years old. that would screw you
yeah i chop down whatever is in my way
the way I se it is, tree cover = no planning permission needed >:)
I think the only way I'll get land now is to get a worn-out farm
we got plenty of land
there's plenty here really, but the planning laws are stupid
1million gbp per acre for bulding land, but for agricultural it's cheap and they get subsidies
wow a million?
that's average town price
in London, sky high
oh well there you go
I'm out in the woods
but out in the woods here, you won't get planning permission for a new house, although you can "repair" an old farmhouse
we'll let you slap up whatever wherever just about
but land with that opportunity is expensive
ah wilderness. shame we've run out of new continents on this planet :)
you city folk all alike
get out of the city and most of the world is still empty
cities are few and far inbetween really
lots of nothng in between them
not in UK it ain't. it was all feudal and some ppl think it still is
MrSunshine is now known as sys2
you guys still got royalty
lords and dukes and whatnot
it looks like wilderness, but it's actually carefully preserved hunting ground
don't worry america made its own royalty too
yeah they got little power now, but they own all the land
mostly hip hop artists
or sports stars
2nd generation presidents
MarkusBec_away is now known as MarkusBec
[10:53:10] <MattyMatt> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-CS-3-0-E9-Drive-Shaft-Transmission-Can-Deliver_W0QQitemZ170406518207
upgrade your go-kart
what's happened to the diff? has he burned off excess metal with a torch?
I think that axle's seen its best days
sorry, ebay said "you may also like " :)
driver board arrived \o/
ah the sweet smell of chinese technology
right., I suppose I'd better build the PC
I found the toolchanger for the lathe :)
I wand the toolchanger for mine
but they sell for silly money here
a photocell was misaligned and a bearing was broken
* anonimasu nods
I were preparing to build one
HTTP 错误 404
gaaah i need to manufacture a couple of motor mounts ... but need my mill to make them and i need one more axial bearing to put it together again ... comming on monday
will the mill need the motor?
that im making the mounts for yes :P .. chicken and the egg :)
so ive done some temporary mounts atm that i just need to stabalize some and i will have high enough precision to make the real mounts :P
reprap has appeal
although that doesn't fix itself, tbh
it's just easier to have 2 repraps than 2 mills :)
a mill and a reprap doesnt cut it?
yeah as long as you're not a purist
and don't mind machined parts on your reprap
i think that whole self-replicating shit is a nice idea, but a showstopper for the whole project atm.
nice idea, but no sense and productivity gain by that.
normal engineering is self bootstrapping. they are just rediscovering that
its ok, but not efficient. from what i could gather only a vanishing glimpse of repraps are printed ones. most are built from lasercut, milled or somewhat improvised mechanics
people are starting to sell kits of printed parts
and then other people sell extruder parts
the developers seem to use self-printed parts, so they get high turnaround
that's what 3d printing is useful for, prototyping
e.g. I wouldn't want to run a mill with motor mounts I printed :)
so no a rerap and a mill doesn't cut it
not any kind of mill that uses proper axias bearings
I'd run my dremelator with them tho
gah. 50mm pillow block in plywood to hold my dremel. the easiest size of U bolt to buy
it'll do until I fashion a steel ring for the 20mm nozzle end
* MattyMatt steals washer from truck wheel nut
well my k6-2 is dead. next candidate mobo is a celeron 500
that's my win98 machine tho. gotta back that up thoroughly first
[14:12:50] <L84Supper> http://www.candyfab.org/
didn't make use of EMC
should they have? the limit on that is the hot air gun
that is actually the machine that first inspired me to build one :)
i think as the process gets slower, the benefit of realtime is smaller ( a 1ms stutter in motion to molten sugar blob doesnt matter much )
maybe they didn't want to have a PC involved?
you could probably sinter alu powder in a vacuum
and then when it absorbs oxygen it'll go sapphire hard
something to try on the moon
sorry, this is totaly off topic, but does anybody know what sort of pumping principle this pump uses? Doesn't look like a centrifugal pump. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200404380594&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
hmm, ok, it has a very long pump "housing"
the impellers are stacked where the output of one feeds the input of the other.
L84Supper, which is being used on www.candyfab.org ?
If anyone cares... http://www.cnn.com/2009/TECH/11/13/google.phone.service/index.html
has anyone built a linear motor? it would need a linear encoder, I wonder if there's a DIY way of making one...
lots of older printers/plotters have linear encoders
they are just the usual module like you get from us digital, and a strip
they wrote it using http://processing.org/
I'm still looking for where they post the actual code
I'm guessing hedenhain and renishaw will be a bit out of my price range...
awallin : you can fine cheap linear encoder strips and sensors on ebay for cheap
heh sp fine/find
ok, I need to do a bit of research on the linear motor bit. I wonder how doable it is
[17:57:47] <L84Supper> http://cgi.ebay.com/ENCAD-NovaJet-1000i-Kodak-1200i-ENCODER-STRIP-MYLAR_W0QQitemZ290366640000QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPrinter_Accessories?hash=item439b334f80
hm, that is 1200 lines per inch?
and two in quadrature?
[17:59:48] <L84Supper> http://cgi.ebay.com/ENCAD-ENCODER-SENSOR-NOVAJET-PRINTER-PARTS_W0QQitemZ290366670957QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item439b33c86d
beware you need exactly the right sensor so the spacing gives quadrature
it's silly for this seller to separate them
heh, you should see what the suppliers from China do :)
1200 lpi is 0.02mm resolution...
Item location:Shanghai, China
* awallin -> pizza is ready...
they have all the printer parts but no specs
awallin: you have 30 minutes to deliver to ALL of us
lots more http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=encoder+strip&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_odkw=encoder+strip+encad&_osacat=0
cradek: ah! in 4x mode that sound much better
I don't think my last message made it out... Has anybody had any experience with these supper cheapo stepper drives on ebay?
[18:06:36] <geo01005_> http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Axis-CNC-Stepper-Motor-TA8435H-Driver-Board-Mach-2-3_W0QQitemZ250526105456QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a5484ff70
[18:08:14] <cradek> http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/toshiba/4047.pdf
the TA8435 is a biploar chopper drive, so it might be a perfectly fine board
it is cheaper than I could hope to make it.
1.5A 24V is on the small side but for a very small machine it's probably fine
the board is pretty simple to check, I'd check on the four lytics used and double check the temp on the motor drivers to see if the heatsink is large enough
I'm looking at some little motors to go with it:
[18:12:05] <geo01005_> http://cgi.ebay.com/Lin-Nema-17-bipolar-stepper-motors-Package-of-4-motors_W0QQitemZ250406974065QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a4d6b3271
motors are good upto 2 amps, but I wouldn't mind running then at 1-1.5 amps.
you should get and check the spec sheet for those motors - if they are really rated 24V you'll get virtually no performance out of them
you want very low volt rated motors
[18:13:58] <L84Supper> http://www.toshiba.com/taec/components2/Datasheet_Sync//382/3537.pdf
the resistance is 1.2 ohms per coil, so I don't think they are actually rated at 24v.
sounds a bit high =)
low .. for 24V 2A
yes they are actually 2.4
driving at 24 will be decent then
sucks that my stepper driver cant take 4 amps
then i could run mine ALOT faster
as i have to have serial connection now to get the amps down .. :/
4V 2A insted of 2V 4A =)
geo01005_ I got the 3.5A version from the same people. it arrived today after ~10 days
MattyMatt: how much did that one cost?
7 quid more
Have you tried it out yet?
not managed to read the manual.doc yet
no pics in wordpad, so I couldn't be sure I was looking at the right one
hmm, I don't see a 3.5A version for sale right now.
here's a3.5A version http://cgi.ebay.com/New-4-Axis-CNC-Stepper-Motor-TB6560-Driver-Board_W0QQitemZ130343937110QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1e591aa456
[18:24:25] <MattyMatt> http://cgi.ebay.com/New-4-Axis-CNC-Stepper-Motor-TB6560-Driver-Board_W0QQitemZ130343937110
different vendor, actually, but same board by the look
hy68.com on the pcb, but their english site is 404
free shipping to sweden .. not to bad =)
did it come with the fan?
I still haven't worked out whether I've got N or M version. both have 25 + 15 ports, wired totally differently
yeah fan attached
nicely made board
powers itself from the motor psu
detachable connector blocks are nice
I'll look for spares for cable extenders
feature list in N version says manual interface, but M version has connector too
I'm going to install my arcade joysticks on it :)
I've used the plywood I was saving for the cab, and given away the TV
and I tried to use the mobo for emc, but it's a longbeeper
I decided to use my old desktop for emc, but it doesn't fit in the case
I have a big console design. way overkill for 18" work area
I have the pedestal from an unfinished desk. plenty of room for psu etc
it wasn't volume in my case, the heat sink interferes with the mobo tray
geo01005_: I got mach3 with chineses manual, and artcam8 & artcam.pro.8 both chinese. dunno whether they are legal
I'm gonna say no
but it's not a factory cd, so yours will probably be different
candyfab dev comment on EMC "the exceedingly long instruction manual kind of put me off" " Linux CNC has too many features for me!"
[18:48:02] <L84Supper> http://www.candyfab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?showtopic=570
I like that it now makes food-standard candy. they were worried about oil in the hot-air blower at first
the food grade blower sounds cheaper than an smt rework tool too
maybe one of these days I'll build a 3d printer for chocolate
you could do that either way. powder or extruder
or, you could cast solid blocks of chocolate and mill it :)
and then use the swarf for the powder printer
milling is simple, the deposition approach gets into issues with transition temp for the chocolate
what are we making??? i'm in late
and the non-newtonian properties of good chocolate. you need to stir as you squirt
fused powder would work tho
building candyfabs, with the thin excuse of getting emc running on them :)
excuse would be the only thin thing
Staubli sealed stainless robot arm, FDA approved, + mastercam , done for only ~$40K
neat, I'll have 2 for robochoclatier
a big dept store could probably make that pay if it turns out perfect chocs in front of your eyes
I never looked for FDA approved linear positioners or rorary tables
You need NSA certification.
lacework chocolate, holding a few hazelnuts together.
NFS in the US
err yeah, NFS.... http://www.nsf.org/
I bet NSA approval is even harder to get :)
dunno if there's approval here. only disapproval when they inspect
you HAVE to have that certification to be used n food service and pass health codes.
stainless and polypropylene
I've seen frosting inkjets that use standard epson printers. they probably wouldn't pass for factory use but a baker could get away with it here
yeah, the starch based films/paper and food coloring inks
Yeah, I have nfc how they get away with that commercially.
solid sheets of thin-rolled semi-hard frosting/icing
They may not even be doing it legally
there's probably an EU reg to ignore
They have those here in the US too Baskin robbins for cake toppings. still no idea.
I'm going to be building a delta robot with those motors and drives I
I'm looking at.
Delta robots are used all the time in food industries.
Epson has a legal disclaimer on it's use for food since the printer is definitely not food safe
[19:16:31] <Jymmm> http://www.cake-decorating-supply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=11
most english food is illegal in EU :)
apparently we're not allowed to call it chocolate unless it has some cocoa in it
and sausages have to have meat in them, even during wartime
thats a good thing
all it takes is one lawsuit in the US from somebody that licked the cartridge to unclog the nozzles
shouldn't kill anyone, if it's the food dye carts
But the lube used in the printer MSUT be food grade.
problems will happen when little miss baker runs out to Staples and everyone at little johnny's birthday party gets sick
ah kids are supposed to get sick at cake parties. nobody will notice >:)
[19:24:38] <Jymmm> http://www.nsf.org/business/food_equipment/index.asp?program=FoodEqu
[19:24:45] <L84Supper> http://www.staubli.com/en/robotics/products/6-axis-scara-industrial-robot/specialised-robot/stericlean-robot/
NSF/ANSI Standard 169: Special Purpose Food Equipment and Devices
Specialty equipment items or devices which have special, complex, or multiple functions.
aha. one version of the 3.5A board has manual jog buttons on the pcb. this one does not
and what looks like controller chip, which may interfere with emc. this one is straight parport
the other one has h/s on back of pcb too
spindle relay rated for 5A at 240V. bonus
Solid State? or Mechanical
it has a transistor on the coil
only $100 for the NSF document http://www.techstreet.com/cgi-bin/results
[19:41:09] <MattyMatt> http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=zh-CN&u=http://www.cnicic.com/CP/Show_30966.shtml&ei=mQf_Sr2nK4Gq4QblpYWGDA&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBAQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhui%2Bke%2Bhkv6-dc12V-sg%26hl%3Den%26client%3Diceweasel-a%26rls%3Dorg.debian:en-GB:unofficial
hui ke hkv6-dc12V-sg
Food Industry Grippers http://www.schunk.com/schunk/schunk_websites/products/products_level_3/product_level3.html?country=USA&lngCode=EN&lngCode2=EN&product_level_1=244&product_level_2=250&product_level_3=4103
if it comes from schunk, you can't afford it
but they do work
they make good stuff, no doubt
I'll bet the LMG costs most of $100k
ok, the Adept Quattro is USDA approved
[19:47:48] <L84Supper> http://www.adept.com/
[19:48:06] <eric_unterhausen> http://www.schunk.com/schunk/schunk_websites/products/products_level_3/product_level3.html?product_level_3=7261&product_level_2=250&product_level_1=244&country=USA&lngCode=EN&lngCode2=EN
we have the SGH, it was $70k or so
hmmm... maybe a meat carving bot?
"forms a lifelike 3d sculpture of your friends and family out of pate in only 60 seconds!"
eric : how well does it work so far?
when skynet sends the command, it turns your friends and family into pate
meat is meat, to a robot
* oPless perks up
except for english robots who understand there's no actual meat in a meat and potato pie
* oPless wanders off as there's no talk of actual HKs
you mentioned skynet :)
McDonalds worked on humanless kitchens for years, minimum wage workers outperformed them, maybe they used minimum wage engineers as well
you'd need a self cleaning vending machine
or else you'd need Rimmer to clean the chicken soup nozzles by hand
Yeah, just make a vending machine that a cow/pig/chicken just walks into and out comes steak, bacon & eggs, pork chops, hot dogs, etc.
frozen deliveries, just like the restaurants
farms have a machine that turns animals into frozen baggies
robowolf, so you don't have to round them up from the field
MarkusBec is now known as MarkusBec_away
MarkusBec_away is now known as MarkusBec
any advice on cheap high repeatability home switches for my mill ? :)
I wonder if keypads would work?
some are using cheap miniature microswitches and getting good results
you know those rubber things
archivist_emc cherry switches?
things like this, i suppose http://www.ligfiets.net/zelfbouwer/images/NniWhVMA.jpg
dont cheap out if you want better than good results
[23:06:06] <pfred1> http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/347/34725_300.jpg
though I even have some old red cherry switches
now i guess it is like saying Kleenex they all called cherry switches but it is a brand
I have not tested mine for repeatability yet
I always thought cherrys were industry standard
not the "cheap" way out
i guess repeatibility isn't so important for most hobby cnc uses
I was impressed that emc has debounce code written into it
archivist_emc, did you link me a pdf at one time about pcb smt design?
I've had to make deboince circuits
what is it that makes bad repeatability with say micro switches?
shouldnt they switch at exactly the same time every time ?
tlab, I dont think so, or cant rember
most of mine are unimax brand
I'm going to run with them
would optointerruptors have better repeatability then micro switches but at the cost of being chip sensetive? :)
you can get error from ambient light in an opto
come to think about it I have a ton of those too
sys2 I never thought about using those
seal it from light and chips and it probably is very good
how about hall effect sensors?
archivist, i was thinking to put it on then incase it inside a plastic shell
celeron55_ sort of tough to seal it if you need to interrupt it
go luxury and get some nice "scales" =)
frallzor are you buying?
get me some too
I believe they asked for cheap
he asked for good afaik :P
<sys2> any advice on cheap high repeatability home switches for my mill ? :)
good wasn't in there
well high repeatability = good in my book =(
hall effect is tough to run in automotive apps
must be pretty good with dirt and whatnot
sys2 but now you do have me thinking about optos
they have to be incased good tho for chips, dust and like archivist_emc said ambient light
yeah hall effect might be easier than all of that
but will hall effect have any good repeatability .. and are they so they give 0 and 1 .. not 0 ...... 0.1..... ....... 1 ?
sys2 it is good enough to time car ignition
pfred1, well that can be 0.1 degree off and it wouldnt do much harm :P
that doesn't mean very much precision :P
as my car had 3 kogs off on the timing belt or whatever its called and it still ran quite good
and thats like 5 degrees or more off on the ignition
* pfred1 remembers not to let these two under his hood ...
teeth .. toothed belt
yeah havingthose teeth off the belt didn't affect your timing more are in contact
having the belt jump 3 teeth is different
car timing is pretty picky
didn't he mean just that?
pfred1, it had jumped 3 teeth :)
thats what i mean
so it was 3 teeth off where it should be
I thought you meant you sheared belt teeth
your car might have been compensating
it did that after i tightened it ... but that time ALL of the teeth :P
pfred1, its a 87 non fuel injector :P
doesn't matter can be in the ignition module
no computer etc etc
just plain mechanical parts
even then you have the breaker plate
an opto interrupter, does that ground the cable when its interrupted?
maybe it is sync that is most important with car ignition I never thought about it like this before but I sure seen plenty of cars screwed with worn distributors
I'd think it'd ground free
being as one side would be an NPN transistor
the detector side
eally say conduct
I'm prototyping my BOB right now using optos
not too happy yet with the ma draw I'm getting
cause as far as i can tell my controller board wants it to be as so, as long as nothing is connected to the limit switch input its high == not at limit, when it hits the limits it should GND the output making it go LOW == at a limit
you can always use an inverter
logic can always be reversed
don't let that concern you
7404 easy peasy
pfred1, you testing it out? :)
what is BOB ?
Break Out Board
goes between parallel port and whatever
yeah thats built into my driver
I'm using optoisolators on it
so i just ṕlug the parport right into the driver board =)
they lot like interrupters
cept without the slot
sys2 well your board may have protection built in
pfred1, yes, optocouplers
not a bad way to go
pfred1, if you get it working, please test it for repeatability also :)
if you can :)
well opto sutff should work for a long time
pfred1, yes but what i mean is if it stops at 0.001 first time 0.004 2nd time 0.01 3rd time 0.000 4th time etc :)
or if it stops at 0.000 each time :P
[23:36:13] <sys2> http://www.vinland.com/Opto-Interrupter.html
maybe something :P
sys2 I'm not interested in accuracies like that
Anyone interested in a couple of open frame linear PS? 5VDC@6A and 16VDC@12.5A
Jymmm you ever see the last PS I built?
hmm, I guess that means they don't want to ...
sys2 how about you? Want to see a picture of the last power supply I built?
why not :P
whatever floats your boat :P
well if you do here is a picture
[23:55:52] <pfred1> http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FQE/UXTT/G1BBHIWI/FQEUXTTG1BBHIWI.MEDIUM.jpg
omg, a flux capacitor in therE? :)
it'll deliver 2-38V adjustable current adjustable voltage
or what is thaT? .. huge :P
is it a capacitor? :)
the big silver can?
yes that is a capacitor
you need them to filter
it is what you need
it is only 38,000 uF
which for this sort of a supply is what you need
supply can deliver 300 watts
what was the ESR on that cap?
cranked up it can sort of weld a little least it makes the wire stick
L84Supper hell if i know I pulled it out of my cap drawer
its a pretty nice bench power supply for messing with all of this stepper stuff
has gobs of power
heh, probably high enough to not have issues with inrush current
oh supply is fast diode bypassed
so no worries huh?