now you're unstoppable
MarkusBec_away is now known as MarkusBec
bjt-plasma is now known as jt-plasma
Guest865 is now known as skunkworks
1's run from the house to the garage.
nice.. do 0's get stuck?
if they do, you need bigger wires
0 > 1
they slid thru the 2 inch conduit nice.,,
it won't fit in here: =
sure am glad I have connections... I was able to get it from the local electric supply for 1.20/ft
ah, I see..
* alex_joni goes to convert that to real units
I guess there is probably a metric equiv?
sure there is
7.34 mm diameter
more common to express it in section: 42mm^2
that's a thick enough cable for welding.. up to 100A or so
yes - it is going to run the house.. (garage has a 200a service - house only 125)
well - it will be subfed with a 100a breaker.
needed to get the rest of the conduit in the ground before it froze
whee, jr likes my 2.25" face mill much better than the bridgeport did
yeah, that makes it easier to dig ;)
faced steel with it dry, no problem
we need pics
now I'm slotting steel dry with carbide - never done it before
3 flute carbide (looks like it was 4 originally, haha)
Slotting with a slotter? Or milling?
<pedant> Not slotting then :-)
junker end mill I found in a box, so I don't care if it breaks
cradek: what are you making?
andypugh: maybe it's regional? even 2 flute mills are sometimes called "slot drills" because you can cut full width with them (slot)
maybe andypugh was talking about a T-slot?
skunkworks: an old but nice jack my dad likes has a pin that used to fit up in the car body. new car doesn't have a hole, needs a slot
Good point. I might have been being pedantic and wrong. Incidentally I think that they are slot drills because you can plunge-cut with them,
andypugh: I've been pedantic and wrong before!
and you aren't now anymore?
I am beginning to wish I had just bought a new stepper driver rather than try for a warranty replacement. 2 weeks downtime < £35
It's only a hobby machine, but still.
grrrr thinks i am going to look at having to be able to get the right gas and wire to be able to weld stanless steel ,,.,,http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teQXaqeEnl8&feature=related
I am having a blast with this... a lathe is so simple to program that I can easily do it by hand, and us axis to verify my paths.
I'm too dim to calculate circle moves tho. I will be seeking cam tools that are a match to my machine
mIreland: can we help with a circle problem?
nah. they work like they are supposed to.. but it would be nice to sort out a minimalist but functional point clicky path calculator. for now i like constructing the progs from textfile. later, when i have confidence in the boilerplate i wil streamline the process
proofing out the mechanics has had more of my attention, anyway.
* BJT_Shop is signing off for the last time
* BJT_Shop is being replaced with jt-plasma
this was my first computer to get Linux to run on and EMC
* jymm grabs the shutgun and a shovel
it ain't dead yet jymm
Was just gonna put it out of it's isery
BJT_Shop: So, gonna turn it into a smoker or something?
that's not a half bad idea there jymm
mIreland: have you looked at the arc buddy and other g code generators on the wiki site?
BJT_Shop: What is it, an old full tower?
yea a P4 something or other
nope thanx that mite be it...
BJT_Shop: Oh, then you don't want to do that, smokey goodness of PVC not a good thing
jymm: too small for a smoker but it might make a good smoker controller
if I can find a cost effective way to get the temperature into the PC
BJT_Shop: Ah, there ya go. How many temp probes do you need, 2?
yes, one for the cabinet and one for IT
thermister is ok for cabinet but thermocouple is a must for the IT of the meat
[20:01:57] <jymm> http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15&zenid=02a147367619bd65e452b39a912e52c8
[20:03:18] <jymm> http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14&products_id=112&zenid=02a147367619bd65e452b39a912e52c8
that's where I get my thermocouples from :)
the last link is a smoker theremometer
Thermocouples are definitively not magic. All you need are the two different wires and an electrical connection between them at the point you want to measure temperature.
the magic is getting that info into your PC
Does the PC have USB? Look at the Phidgets range
yes it has a few USB ports
[20:08:42] <andypugh> http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=6&product_id=1124
for ambient (ish)
now that is cost effective
[20:09:25] <andypugh> http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=6&product_id=1051
for the thermocouple
Ah, perhaps not the first one, as it isn't actually USB.
I say get one of these and just hack it... http://www.maverickhousewares.com/et73.htm
that is what a lot of smokers use
Yeah, get a $5 webcam to OCR the display :-)
BJT_Shop: Buy two and hack em up... http://www.virtualvillage.com/digital-probe-30020c-max-temperature-thermometer/sku003820-026?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shcomp&utm_campaign=Digital%20Probe%2030020C%20Max%20Temperature%20Thermometer
WOW cheap probes... http://www.virtualvillage.com/diy/temperature/thermocouples-and-sensors/~category_id=USDY04003
DAMN, even the controllers are cheap
[20:17:30] <jymm> http://www.virtualvillage.com/industrial-temperature-controller-and-adjuster/sku001480-034
that is cheap for a temperature controller
and I think that was the "expensive" one too!
Yeah, there is a $35 one
OF COURSE *THE* Solar Control that *I* need is one of the expensive ones <rolls eyes>
Oh, they're out of Shanghai
shiping charges were cheap enough
Hey, they have a CNC section
your having way too much fun jymm
BJT_Shop: Why you say that? You never go eDumpster Diving?
any how shutting this computer down for the switch out
I think I have one of their 3-axis stepper controllers.
The odd name is familiar
[20:27:49] <andypugh> http://www.virtualvillage.com/cnc-micro-stepper-driver-board-mill---3-axis/sku007807-097
lot of cutters
It's not too bad actually, and has an on-board pulse generator for jogging.
But I kept on blowing up the controller ICs, and couldn't find a cheap source.
lol. Wel, don't do that!
Hmmm, is this good pricing? http://www.virtualvillage.com/3-x-aluminum-flexible-coupler-for-stepper-motor/skuS09101-003-3
that url is way too long for me to muck with
Let me try agian
[20:35:52] <andypugh> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3643076
LawrenceG: Motorolal programming cables... http://www.virtualvillage.com/business,-retail-and-industrial/handheld-radio-accessories/programming-cables/~category_id=USBI03005
I _think_ that Virtual Village is the same as Onlineseller68 on eBay
[20:39:58] <andypugh> http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/onelineseller_USA-Site_W0QQ_fsubZ19621942QQ_sidZ372635320QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322
LawrenceG: $50 for a dual band swr http://www.virtualvillage.com/digital-vhf&47;uhf-power-&-swr-meter-for-yaesu-ft-8800r/sku001531-050
BJT-Shop is dead, long live jt-plasma?
KILL THE IMPERSONATOR!!!!
pulled the plug out LOL
jt-plasma: DO IT AGAIN! DO IT AGAIN!
I'm sure I will before it is all over
* jt-plasma listens to wall of voodoo
never hearde of them but that doens't mean anything. There ae lots of things I like, but have no clue on artist/title.
I am hoping I can pick someones brain about configuring my hal file to the spindle control from CNC4PC model c6
There is a sample hal configuration on the cnc4pc website but I do not know what to do with it.
hello, is there anybody here today?
Is it an actual HAL file?
was going to say no
no, the sample given is to modify a hal file
Is it a simple stepper and parallel port setup?
I have my cnc router running on emc, I used the stepconf setup
get a little hal basics under your belt with http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html//hal_basic_hal.html
and only modify the custom.hal file if you used stepconf wizard
Well. first I would do a similar stepconf setup for your lathe.
Wait, sorry, wrong end of the stick
* jt-plasma just figured out why that guy sold me the 12" cast iron table saw for $100
I have been reading a bit of the integraters manual. I have a steep learning curve ahead of me.
he had a B pulley on the motor and an AX belt :)
That would work poorly
Having looked at that CNC4PC C6 board I am left wondering "Why?"
Why would you want to control spindle speed with step-up/step-down when PWM is so straightforward?
Because I don't know any better. I have a Hitachi SJ200. I control it manually. I just want to control throuogh my gcode.
Can I set up a hitachi VFD to use PWM?
A perfectly sensible thing to want to do, I agree
Not directly, probably. You would need to convert the PWM to an analogue voltage. In principle that only takes a resistor and a capcitor.
OK, but if I already have the C6 board that converts a step signal to analog, I'll try to stay on this road.
In practice you would probably want to go through an opto-isolator to protect the parallel port, then a constant current source to the resistor and capacitor, then buffer the voltage with an OP-amp. So you need 10 components rather than 2.
The hal modifiaction sample is here. http://cnc4pc.com/Files/EMC2.txt
Yeah, now you have it, you might as well use it. I am sure it will work fine.
I counted to 8 and then aded some for luck.
OK, simplest for you would be to paste that HAL file into your custom.hal file (which I guess is empty?)
I pasted the sample into my hal file and started emc. I was just trying to see if the pin would become active. I got an error so I removed the code.
yes the custom hal file is empty
Then edit it to suit the actual p-port pins you are using.
I cannot tell if the sample hal code has enough info to call out the pin. Or do I need to add more code to call activate the pin. The code refers to pin 14, which is fine for me.
Try just doing that and rebooting EMC2 and see what error message you get. I suspect that you will have to put the loadrt line in the main HAL file, but it would be simpler not to if it works in custom.hal
I'll try it now.
It is using pin 14 for speed up/down and pin 16 for direction I think.
Sorry, Pin 16 is on-off
pasting the code into custom hal still produced errors
Just scroll right to the bottom of the error list and see what it says?
You can paste the whole error log into www.pastebin.ca and pass us back the URL if you want.
Thanks, I'm doiing it now
[21:38:31] <danny> http://pastebin.ca/1625916
As I suspected.
You need to move that loadrt stepgen line into the main .hal file.
andypugh: it is there
There will be an almost identical line in there, but with one fewer parameters
that's why there's a duplicate component error message
right.. change that one
"There can be only one"
so do i remove the loadrt from custom hal?
you could use an unload stepgen
but it's better to remove the loadrt from custom hal
and change the one in the main hal file
just remember to not run stepconf again
it'll overwrite your changes
What do I change in the loadrt line in the main hal?
[#emc] "This is the #emc channel - talk related to the Enhanced Machine Controller and general machining. Website: http://www.linuxcnc.org/,
wiki at http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/"
G92 applies to all tools and all coordinate systems. (I think, I am not sure about the last bit)
I'm hoping for a tool table with everything zeroed off the front of my partoff slide on g54, then apply a z offset in g92 equal to the length of my part. looks like it should work that way, i just have to man up and trust my setup.
yes g92 and tool offset are separate
i got worried when i cancelled (g92.2) and found that my centerline had moved... this is a lathe my centerline should never be overridden by g92
What are you trying to do?
You would G53 to absolute centreline, I think
if you changed X with g92, you bet it will move the centerline
I agree you usually don't want to do that
this is probably operator error as always. if i made such a change it was an accident
IMO the tool offset should be the only one with an X component
I have mine set up so Z0 is turret face touching spindle nose, X0 is center of turret at centerline of spindle
this is the HNC's original coordinates if I understand right
then the tool offsets are easy to understand - measure how far it sticks out from the turret face, etc
so, g54 is arbitrary, since the tool table handles x and z, but if i manually set g54 i can have one tool at offset x0z0
You probably touched-off with a G92 active?
likely. i was flailing a bit at first
g54 is only as arbitrary as any origin is - I like to set G54 Z0 to the right end of the part
yes, but because there is always an offset active, whatever value g54 takes can have a compliment in the tool table
yes one of the g5x is always active
i meant an h value. i expect to leave g54 active for all normal work
I am considering setting up the other G5x systems to suit the steps on my chuck.
but whatever g54 is, the tool table can be the opposite, hence it is arbitrary. whatever values i choose for all fixture offsets should be the same in x, and can wander in z, but g54z0 will be taken from front of cutoff slide.
thanks again guys. I'm getting a signal I control now. I just have to play with scaling now. Cheers.
And leaving G54 for touching off to workpiece-end like cradek suggested. I can't see any reason to not have them all have x=0 as the centreline, though.
I have G54 origin as the tip of my normal turning and facing tool.
Take a skim, measure diameter, set X. Then the other tools all work
T1 has zeros in the tool table.
Better might be to have a probe tool with a tip as the origin.
being arbitrary, g54x0=0.000 is fine i suppose. but i like your idea-- then you can read the relative position of tips in each position out of tooltable
I do it that way because I don't have anything to measure gaps from the toolpost with, mainly. I can measure from tooltip to work or tooltip to chuck face with the digital calipers.
But measuring from the toolpost the toolpost gets in the eay
so, it works like expected and i have to just run it... and at any time a g92.2 jumps my zero to my chuck face, and x should never be overridden by a g92
I don't use G92 at all, I change G54. I can see arguments for both, but I am going to start using G92 as a sneaky way to get the current X and Y into G-code parameters.
And to do that I need to leave it clean.
Is there a clean way to set g54 within the program? i had the idea they were set in var file, i assume by text editor
dont answer i kno this...
lights are coming on. jeesh learning is painful.
It would help if the programming language was a bit less arcane. It makes assembler look legible. I think only raw hex makes less immediate sense
okay, maybe i'm still confused. when i pick g54 from 'zero coordinate system' menu i see no change in displayed coordinates. I was kinda hoping to see x0z0
either it isn't changing or something else is changing as well. How do i set g54 without ambiguity?
I confess I am still fuzzy on parts of it.
You can do it with G-codes too.
one should always fear and respect zero in this line of work.
that's better. g92.2, touch off, zero g54. tools should have all moved with respect to zero in tandem; now i zero and then offset z in g92 and start choppin.
sounds simple enough.
i think i've had a g92 offset active withou\g
my knowledge for some time....
jepler_ is now known as jepler
MarkusBec is now known as MarkusBec_away