those small holes are now done with laser IF not too deep, but .3mm with 20mm depth are still edm'd.
the material may only be 5mm thick but you enter it at 10 degrees, which is hard on drills and increases cut depth a lot.
(well a shallow entry angle, not 10deg)
tom2 is now known as tom3p
Just this once .. here's the log: http://www.linuxcnc.org/irc/irc.freenode.net:6667/emc/2009-10-14.txt
does any one know stepper circuits? This one on http://www.aaroncake.net/Circuits/stepper.asp
looks like it only uses half the coils at a time
thats known as unipolar and yes its not so good or powerful
easy though as a rule ;->
regard as the worst of stepper drivers
has no current control either
that's the kind of steppers I've got tho
or afternoon i mean
you can use steppers in many ways
pjm__ is now known as pjm
k, I'll keep looking :)
MattyMatt: get gecko's and be done with it
I've seen one made from a ULN 2803 btw
I simply don't have the cash. this is made from junk or nothing.
it was my pile of dead printers that inspired me to start
some unipolar motors can be driven bipolar and you can use a higher voltage with pwm current control
will those open-collectors melt if I try and use them as analog amps?
I can guess the answer, so pwm it is.
plan A is reprogram this printer board. it's 80188
and has 2x L6219
olivetti JP190 or 150 I forget (I had both at one time)
liberate the useful, or cut tracks and connect to parallel port
ew I worked on Olivetti printer code
I was thinking of doing the pwm with the cpu
were they the integrex badged colour ones?
too slow for that (pwm with the CPU)
get some L297/298 - that's pretty cheap
it does half stepping, and current limiting
all the work is done in the L6219 on that board
it has pwm etc
ah ok, so I want to liberate those chips
or hack the board and connect to the pins on the L6219 for clock and dir
other printer (where the fat stepper came from) has 4 transistors in a row, so I guess it's that simple bipolar design
it will probably be connected bipolar as it should
My bro left a stash of veroboard at mommas. I never had so much :)
I'll liberate the chips
I may find another use for the cpu/ram/rom combo intact
I probably still have the ROM images from that printer
no disassembly tho? I was going to disassemble the old one to find the stepper ports
at home I may still have the code, but we never had to go deep in the stepper code
there's one glue chip doing the address decoding, so I'd need a few channels of circuit analyser
we bought in printers and modded them and resold
188 is a joke really. 386SX would be worth the effort, just
but for $10 I could have a new ARM with more ram & rom inside it
I had to fix the borked commercial disassembler for that job
lovely. integrex? I think the Tandy one I had was a rebadged one of them
cgp 220 . I was quite fond of that even tho it was shit. I wrote overprinting progs to get more bits out of it and I even tried to interlace
right. I'll short circut the L6219 to the parallel port. I do have a new dremalike, after all
[13:02:11] <skunkworks> http://imagebin.ca/img/KYDWmq1m.png
smutty pic server?
can't be, there's only 900G used
heh - I am really new to this..
I assumed the 900g used was the parity usage for raid 5
(linux side anyways.)
do you have hot-swap working?
considering I have not gotten to the point that it is something I can copy files to..
I don't know. (well - I have not yanked a drive yet)
I'd suggest doing that before copying loads of data to it
I haven't really found a good how-to yet. been peicing things togather from a few sources. Damn linux people!
heh - sure. This is more of a test to see how well it works.
is that hmmm - RAID5 with only one parity drive?
8 drives with one for parity
oh, it says RAID5 up top
I'd suggets RAID6, and/or a hot spare
yay! I got a new coffee grinder!
too bad it isn't one of the red ones, to match the mixer
at least it matches the coffee maker
hey skunkworks, do you have those atom boards in cases?
I'll have about a dozen mini-ITX cases available, cheap
this one: http://www.mini-box.com/M300-LCD-Enclosure;jsessionid=0a01025a1f43149f276a577f4c948c5982b25627a9bf.e3eSbNySbxiNe34Pa38Ta38Ra3z0?sc=8&category=87
$30 or so, plus shipping
wow - that is a good deal
SWPadnos: what did you end up doing?
MarkusBec is now known as MarkusBec_away
oh, we built custom endlosures that have the D945GCLF2, a small ethernet switch, and a separate control board
nice - did you solve the pausing problem?
it's a network driver bug, which should be fixed in 2.6.30
you probably don't hit it, because it only crops up under heavy network traffic
you where able to patch it?
no, I'll be testing that theory this week
and I may upgrade the machines to Karmic anyway
yes - and I didn't do much heavy networking with ubuntu
***** GOOD MORNING VIETNAM *****
SWPadnos: Karma CNC???
ubuntu karmic koala
Live on the bleeding edge and you WILL get cut!
karmic karmic karmic karmic karmic karmic chameleon....
* SWPadnos slaps skunkworks
* Valen helps
when is karmic out? i have some systems that are in need of a refresh
10/27 or something
qawww man thats like for ever
[16:05:49] <SWPadnos> https://wiki.ubuntu.com/KarmicReleaseSchedule
thats like forever and 2 days
don't install the beta if you have an ATI video card
i hate ATI so i'm happy
but whats the go?
I noticed this when I updated the alpha to beta
the accelerated driver doesn't work with kernel 2.6.31
it may today, but it didn't yesterday
hows the open source 3d driver coming
no idea, I haven't looked at it in a while
should look at porting EMC to lucid ;->
[16:09:11] <skunkworks> http://imagebin.ca/img/G-yugm.png
you has lots of raidsors
6tb worth give or take
whats it for other than sploding hdds ;->
in the future - file serving
right now - playing.
what size disks?
* skunkworks was just excited he actually got it mounted.
thats alot of pr0n
we actually have 3 total here. (2 are on windows servers)
not that expensive - a bit over 1k for drives/case/esata card.
suggestion for you, while its all in your mind
practise failing and rebuilding the drives now before you have anything on it
and practise doing it with a different drive (ie a different size)
then when you have your process sorted, write it out ;->
oh yeah, and there is something you can do to get mdadm to spit out a file with the array configuration on it, get that
and the mapping between the uuid's and the /dev/sdfoos you have currently
yep - After I copy some test files to it - I am going to plan on removing drives and maybe even transfer it to a differnt system to paly
oh yeah, the system transfer is a biggie
that can be a bitch and a half to get working
The actual os install isn't raid...
I don't really think it would work with these boxes anyways. at boot time you can only see 2 of the drives (1 on each esata channel)
I figure the os isn't really a biggie.
that way it should be pretty hardware un-aware. just plug the esata card into another computer and scan for them with mdadm.
atleast that is what is in my little mind..
dunno if anyone cares but reprap v 2.0 "mendel" has been released-ish http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Version_II_"Mendel"
now uses roller bearings and cheaper nema-14 steppers
I'm considering preprap possibilities on mine. plastic extrusion
I had a grease gun once that woulda been perfect with a brass washer instead of the leather one
I've just been to the local auction. I thought if I got the 12" table saw I'd make my router frame out of wood, and if I got the arc welder, I'd make it from steel
I got both
well couple of tips on eather
I have no welding or wood in my mill :)
don't let momma know about either of them?
if you make the router out of wood you don know that wood tends to expand and shrink over the year , so can cause problems when used with metal parts
yeah I was there looking for oak furniture originally
if you weld it remeber to make all the critical allignment adustable to allow for welding deformation
yeah I'll make panels out of tubes, and bolt them together
you can weld together a square frame and no mater how acurate you weld it you may find that its a mm or so out once cooled down
even if all members are clamped?
warpage with welding takes some controlling
i prefer welding but you have to desgin in ajustments to compencate for any inacuracy in the finished frame
right I'll bear that in mind.
pros clamp , tack and only then weld
I made custom bike frames in holland with an arc welder, but they didn't last long :)
seen a couple thats started projects on cnc.com where they thought welding rails would be fine ,, but did not allow for adjustment , so the whole thing is scrap from the point they spot its out
the reprap link sez "There is currently no text in this page, you can search for this page title in other pages or edit this page."
oh, add the space and quoted string on end, its ok
boy those guys aren't worried about weldments
lego? not, mechanno? almost
plastic meccano, or fischer teknik
plastic can be quite good, but the reprap stuff looks like polythene
[18:50:42] <AchiestDragon> http://www.whipy.demon.co.uk/Cnc1.jpg
rough looking but the welded frame is nice and strong ,, think you can see it was just thrown together and made it so i could get away with quite big errors and still allign it
that looks so much better than a wooden one, I must confess
actualy works well only main problem was the x axis adjusters could of done to be doubled up as theres a bit of flex on them under full load
does your table overhang the front?
given that i used stock m10 threaded bar as leadscrews
m8 for me. I misread the list and thought it was 1mm pitch
not by mutch ,,, its a 24" by 12" travel
m10 is 1.5mm pitch
fine thread m8 is 0.8 or 0.75 iirc
makes it a bit slow on steppers
I thought the gearing would help my undersized steppers. only loss is speed
otherthan i welded the nuts to brackets and made simple antibacklash mountings means that i was looking to do a total fresh one to replace and try to make a better looking job of it
rather than upgrade them to proper leadscrews
I'm going to use a split brass nut I think
with a quick release handle so the table can intude into gangways
on the mk3
2 nuts one fixed the other held so it does not rotate but would float allong the axis ,, held appart from the other by a spring seems to be an efective antibacklash
ah I'll finish the mk1 first. I've got seasoned wood just needs straightening
not enough to do it all in oak tho. a couple of fine cabinets to hack up would be nice
merchantdice on flebay has some nice trapizoidel leadscrews in 8mm ,, he also has the nuts the nuts allone he sells for about £30 for 3 not a bad price and worth the expence
yeah I'll upgrade later
yea mistake i made was not to allow for the upgrade when i built that
I code my screw length as 600mm because that seems to be a standard size for real leadscrews
the other problem i seem to have with most of the router designs are the rails
use the ones with the C bearings and 16 or 20 mm rails supported allong there lenth
the 20mm end supported rails flex way too much
I think 2 pairs of these shelf sliders, at right angles and opposing directions (only one pair 'fully' extended) will do nicely
for wood carving, anyway
i used 20mm rails suported in a bit of angle iron welded to unistrut even that has some flex 20mm rail end supported alone would not do at 600mm long
yeah I wouldn't try it
what are antibacklash mountings and why are they needed?
I'm gad to know homemade supported rail works tho
_tarzan_: you got a nut and bolt there about 13mm /1/2"
then hold the bolt and with the nut lose see how much slack there is without turning eather
and not tightend up
and a bit worn, ideally
yea idealy one where you can spin the nut and get it to freely run up the bolt , , well the backlash is the play on that
metric thread would be almost acme shape if you ground it down a bit
seen it as high as 3mm on some nuts and bolts ,, but on a leed screw that play would lead to positional inacuarcys ,, hence the backlash value
ah so emc tracks which way you're coming from?
metric thread is not too bad but its still a bit tight 1.5mm a turn is low for a leadscew
would rather have 4mm per turn
he asked whats an antibacklash mounting, still thiking about that, not a nut, he said mounting. maybe he means nut but...
5mm ballscrews in the woodcarver/extruder model, evetually
_tarzan_: you mean nut or mounting? describe what you mean
[19:13:49] <AchiestDragon> http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_pFOm7tEWWu4/SeGOgrP03cI/AAAAAAAABoU/OK7Uo9dK2ak/s400/Antibacklash+nut+01.JPG
the monting would be the spanner that stops the floating nut turning
or even the kind that presses to half-nuts in
someone wrote that he was getting 0.003 accuracy with a plain 1 inch rod connector (m6 iirc), so he ditched his antibacklash nut because the friction was a problem
but I suppose you need to start wearing it all out before you care
yea ,, although had some that are supposed to be engineers expect that you can get less than a thou from a normal nut and bolt ,, but fail to realise that in real world the bronse nut expands at a diferent rate to the carbon steel leadscrew so you cant machine it that close
so you have to make the nut slack and use antibacklash to compencate
ah. I was thinking of a brass nut
same with brass
eather would be more suitable than steel to steel for wair
compensating backlash in software is a mugs game, get the hardware right
you could make it like a formula 1 car. heat the nut with a blowtorch before starting every morning
yea you can only compencate in software so much but it wont help the machine jitter problems
I'm considering making machine a machine read a vernier
with a cheap webcam
absolte feedback, directly off the table
the cheapest webcams have fixed lenses that won't focus that close tho
seems to think theres better ways to get a more acurate reading
a optical mouse sensor although small image resolution has its focus about right for 0.01" or better
gray code, but you'd have to make the scale accurate
just dust and dirt starts to be a big issue , especialy if loose and moving arround like wood dust particles tend to
please forget optical mice
by that I mean the camera sort, not the wheel sort
one of the main problems i used to have to fix on big plotters was paper dust build up in the optical encoders
the camera type only detect movement, not amount
it does detect amount but not accurately
archivist: would be the same with any camara method
unless it could read the numbers :)
AchiestDragon:antibacklash mountings and why are they needed? backlash may not be bad on machine tool
cutter could grab ( climb ) into backlash and break tool., at least trash the work
MattyMatt: but the resolution you get on a cam even in macro would not be as high as you think
well it's a cheap hardware experiment. I'm screwing a steel/alu ruler to my table and making a vernier anyway
its not just the numbers but the diference in the pointer positions
if you got a 1mm scail and thats half the vertical screen size between 1mm points then your only going to get a 100th of a mm max acuracy
ideally the camera would be zoomed close enough to see the ticks on the ruler, and the numbers and the vernier. 320x240 would be fine for that
100th mm is plenty for me
MattyMatt: backlash makes problems on steppers?
no, on the leadscrew & nut
given that most cams only have a 240/2 usable res as there usualy and interlaced image
backlash is always a problem
the screw can reverse a little bit before the nut responds
not that they notice ;) theres usually no feedback on stepper systems. the work would suffer, the stepper would not
archivist: which kind of problems happen with backlash?
as I only have one usable motor so far, getting a relable 0.01mm sensor would be a bonus
_tarzan_, poor work and broken tools in the machine
that'd let me use servos of some sort, probably DC motors
_tarzan_: take a look http://www.imwsrv.com/cncmachwhat.pdf
_tarzan_, eg a round hole becomes oval
0.01mm is plenty accurate enough for woodwork
overkill even. I'm aiming for 0.1mm
accuracy and play are separate problems
accurate sensing would eliminate play
yeah 0.01mm its smaller than the lines on those sticks carpenters carry around
no , not when climb milling
emc will happily climb mill and smash tooling
no play would cause jitter so a straigt edge may end up waving up and down over its lenth if you encounter a knot in the wood that makes it a bit harder on the machine
yeah play in the head is the big worry
hard teaching climb milling to noobs, the machine grabs the work and moved the table by cutting force
I think I will make a 100% steel Y motion, or use this ballscrew motion one I won on ebay (no word from them yet, although I've paid them)
wow, machines that bend at wood knots, maybe that tinkertoy syrup pouring reprap is good enuf
Z motion I mean
looking at some of the spindly machines , I would be careful what wood I put on them
tom3p: if its oak your machining on a plywood router then it would be expected i guess
and probablay unavoidable
steel machine made to a poor design will be as bad
inch thick oak planks looks acceptable for the gantry uprights. solsylva's design
test dti against the spindle and dti base on table, push spindle
the usual ply framed router design would say there ok for balsa wood
doubt dti in toolbox
I see more mdf than ply
and people use chipboard for floorboards, god help them
would not recomend mdf ,, seems that its a carsinagenic , so its worth avoiding machining if you can
..when it gets wet
yeah they use formaldehyde to make chipboard, I presume the same for mdf
but I guess ply is just as bad
the safty guys now insist that you have a face mask at least if working on it bacause of the dust helth problems it gives
its not so much the wood content is the resin they used to bond it
any stout timbers I get will be cut from telegraph poles on my new table saw. they are full of creosote & bitumen
you can't win
you need to ensure that you have good dust extraction /collection on the machine
I got about 1000 rods with the arc welder. there's enough flux on them to poison an army
350 per box, 2 nearly full boxes
we have the unfrotunate problem of having a mdf factory in the town here ,, aparantly the number of residents with respiritary problems here is way higher than elsware in the aria
they make chipboard and ply also
MattyMatt: oak will warp with changes in humidity and temperature
all wood does
yeah, and with age
for about the first 400 years anyway, with oak :)
... so don't make a machine out of it
after that it's sound
yeah I'll make the frame from square tube, I think
after it gets to that age you probalbay find its fallen apart dew to woodworm
or round even, I don't mind cutting 3d curves
I got an A for Engineering Drawing, even tho the bastards wouldn't let me in the workshops after the 3rd year
because I got too many A's
round is better at stopping it twist on the lenth , but it will flex more allong the lenth , square and its the other way arround
ah cool, so a careful mix is best
so square for the gantry uprights and table frame, with round triangulation pieces
sounds good to me
and if using say 2" square go for 5mm thick rather than the 2.5mm stuff
I'll use what appears in skips
I can weld bike frames, so I've had practice on thin walls :)
I could arc weld gas pipes if I had to, with 700 rods
40mm square 2.5mm thick steel new is £14.50 for a 7.6m lenth from FWB if theres on local to you they will deliver for free also , its cheap enough to buy new than it is to set about cleaning paint of a bit you get from the scrap
although you may have to order a few lenths for them to deliver
my friend bought a MIG when he was younger and keener, but he's never even put a plug on it. it's pristine. hopefully seeing me welding will spur him on
when he sees my sputter beads on his new garage roof, he'll break it out of storage
the mig i have hast to be one of the most usefull power tools i use second to the drill
I bought some 19" rack kit too, for a quid. an 8 port KVM, a nice 16 port 10/100 switch, and 2 useless 10Mb hubs on useful trays
imagining a house full of metal reminded me of that :)
well got to fix kildets ps2,, he left a chocice on top of it ,, it melted and ran inside the workings
blew the lazer ,, but thankfully did not make to big a mess of the rest
just? is it still liquid?
got it all cleend out some time ago , only just got a replacment lazer
I paid 30 quid for the table saw, but I reckon it'd fetch more than that on fleabay if momma freaks out or insists it lives outside. 12" blade, what looks like a 1/2 hp motor, 2x3 table
MattyMatt: the pic of that my old machine the table does not overhang more than about 20mm just the angle of that pic does not make the sliders look as long as what they are ,, the sliders on that axis are 700mm long with a 340mm table on that axis
the stainless steel bar is 700mm long 20mm dia the bearing piece of angle is 350mm long shame i dont have a pic of it from the side
and from experiance yea mamas can be that way ,, theres sort of a cure its to get your own place ,, but you then find it soon gets to the stage where you run out of space to put things like i still have a cnc machine trying to do an impression of a coffee table in the front room as theres noware else for it atm
AchiestDragon: What are you fabricating with that?
na it was one i though together to try a design , not got arround to dismantleing it and returning it to scrap yet
seems to make quite an interesting coffee table though
You welded galvanized? hopefully outdoors
Yeah you welded, or outdoors, or both?
took a week to make the steel machine working only with hacksaw electric drill mig welder and basic hand tools
is it square/true?
made my own simple clamps 2 bits of angle iron with some holes for bolts to clamp the bits as i welded
i allowed for +-10mm for allignment ,, doubt theres a square edge on the welding but the machine alligns fine
I was just going to say if the welded table is true, then save it.
You're approach is novel, but doesn't allow for adjustments (last minute tweeking).
But then, I have no clue what you were going to fabricate, so that might not matter at all.
na would need to hack some bits to rework for proper leadscews , the x axis adjustments could do with doubling up as theres a bit of flex on the lenth , but not a problem working with wood
realy was hopeing to do aluminum on it but theres just a bit too mutch flex on the rails for that
it drills aluminum fine but not good enough to mill it with aceptable results
[21:45:22] <jymm> http://www.8020.net/
oh, I misunderstood what you said. nm =)
AchiestDragon, add webbing to add stiffness
on that rail assembly i would realy want to add a lenth of 40mm by 20mm by 5mm thick box to stop the flex
as well as the angle iron and unistrut and the 20mm stanless bar
archivist: streched steel?
im still supprised how much flex there is in that combination over the lenth
web a sheet of metal to fill a corner often a rh triangle
long thin is very bendy
the x axis is only 800mm
although it was my 2nd attempt at a cnc
the first attempt was just using unistrut bolted together ,, but the bolts tend to vibrate lose and it was a wobbly machine
I thought you could weld SS with a MIG
you can with the right gas and wire
and the right bit of handy SS angle, I suppose
but i use gassless wire as its cheaper than std wire and co2
[21:53:34] <jymm> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50SEmXDh6Bw&feature=player_embedded#
getting co2 or argon is not easy for home use unless you go for the small poxy bottels that seem to last no time and cost a fortune
it was £60 for a refill and £200 a year for rental of the bottle last time i got the prices from boc but they wont deal with home users ,, only registered business useres
I have an account with Air Liquide, no need to be a business.
gassless wire costs about £35 for a 5kg roll about double normal wire but still works out cheaper since you dont have the bottles to worry about ,, saver for storage and transport also
Does anyone here read the mailing list?
seen one of thoes bottles blow ,,, ploughed though 3 thick brick walls and ended up burried in an embankment
yup plenty do
Have my messages about speed control pots sitting at +100V been getting through?
60 quid for a refill seems a bit steep. you could get butane cheaper and run it through a fuel cell
I seem to be paying £25 per quarter for rental of my Argon
andypugh, you can always view the archive its online
I think a fill is £35, +£35 delivery if you don't have a car...
Goos point archivist
if it was mid thread then I may have missed it/them
the last 5kg roll of wire i got will be running out i think next year if i have another big welding project ,, but the last roll has lasted me 3 years so far ,,, not like i am doing a masive amount of welding to justify a bottel rental
I have mentioned it three time now I think, no hint that he has checked
depends on the bottle size, but I'm thinking those 4 ft tall ones on a trolley
these 700 welding rods will keep me happy
yea BOC cost was £60 last time i was given a price
that was 5 years back
and guy was complaining about the rental charges also
I need one of those LCD shutter faceplates. this one came with a plastic one with a handle
You can pick up auto helmets for about £25 on that eBay.
may have been the cost for the acetaline
And they are the best invention ever, they free up a hand.
and they let you see where you're poking the rod
And mean no more perfect beads an inch to the right of the joint
I assume, I've only done it the hard way
theres a guy at the local car boot you can get the gaunlets for £1 per pair
wilkos have some cheap enough
Yeah, my warning is three times in that thread, and no acknowledgement. If ye blows up his Gecko and VSD then I did my best.
wilkos ,, :) the place that sells you plastic buckets that you may be able to use twice before they break or shatter
they are one of the poshest shops here now
you can take a horse to water but you cant make him drink
we've got b&m, home & bargain and poundstretcher too now
no proper tool shops whatsoever tho
spoiled for choice on low qualaty goods then
it's our fault for voting labour
I think that he is assuming that opto-isolated means galvanically isolated.
still need to find a place that sells a good bucket rather than having to pay £1 for one each time i need one
buy 5 next time
my kids sandcastle bucket is stronger than those cheap ones they sell
would rather pay £10 for one that will last
I spotted my black buckets under my Best Friend's old double garage door
problem is finding somware that sells them
[22:12:27] <andypugh> http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9375448&fh_view_size=10&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=tub&fh_eds=ß&fh_refview=search&ts=1255558422374&isSearch=true
I doubt they'll bounce back from that
[22:14:21] <andypugh> http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/Outboard-Engine-Accessories/P5206S28/7L-Rubber-Bucket.htm
weee major memory leek causing system crash ,,, been expecting that all day
I think I have a suitably expensive bucket for you
[22:15:30] <andypugh> http://www.manufactum.co.uk/Produkt/193786/1443629/RubberBucket.html
still not managed to catch the app causing it though
Tough as old tyres
yea but cant do this with it http://www.urbanjunkie.co.uk/shopimages/products/extras/Fire
bucket BBQ 4503.jpg
dam link with spaces in
old tyres, now there's a plan
[22:17:55] <AchiestDragon> http://www.urbanjunkie.co.uk/product.php/1116/0/fire-bucket-barbecue
actualy though the old buckets like that are what i would go for ,, the newer ones tend to be too thin and rust away ,, the rubber ones tend to perish and not good if using near welding
same with the plastic ones
You could machine your own stainless steel buckets from solid
now that seems like a plan
Maybe cheaper than buying one: http://www.ascott-dairy.co.uk/acatalog/Stainless-Steel-12-litre-Bucket-MK62.html
well 320433764984 just got one
see if it fairs up any better than the others
stainless isn't much kop for not splitting
I broke my friend's SS spade with the first dig
not ss its a galv steel one i just got £8.99
that what I want for a funace
it shouldn't get hot enough to give off zinc fumes
well amongst usual tasks like washing car etc its good to have one filled with water while welding ,, its not fun when you stop welding to find that the garden arround you is burning away quite happly
sand if you please
ater + arc = no thanks I'd rather burn
Low voltage, is arc
usualy have a washing up liquid bottle filled with water ,, its good for puting out any paint that chatches fire on the stuff you are welding
yeah I wouldn't want sand in my metal pools
water pistols are good for that also ,, but finding them after kidlet has seen them becomes imposible
loads of houshold products come with a free water pistol now
window cleaner etc
but better with a jet of water rather than a fine mist
loosen the nozzle
poke a pin in to widen it for a fatter jet
but just unscrewing it gives you a good jet
the other one is its amazing how many products make good fire starters , like wd40 or hairspary
So instead of just a Class B fire, you're going for a Class C fire.... nice.
a bit of antifreeze would make it a bit less rust-forming, and makes it too poinous for kidlet to touch
ah, but it would look & smell like window cleaner, so you'd end up melting you window frames
no that's brake fluid
Antifreeze is good for you
SWPadnos: You should enjoy this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50SEmXDh6Bw&feature=player_embedded#
Yeah, nice and sweet so the dog/cat can lick it and be poisoned.
jymm, that's fairly insane
Did you see the link to that lovely big boring machine I posted?
SWPadnos: There's another video where they outline the flaws in the system if you're interested.
that one also runs LabView
I like Labview, it's fun.
I did a reallybig project in Labview Realtime
that's a contradiction in terms
unless you need really slow realtime
No, it runs on special (expensive) hardware
I know, I've used it, and it sucked
Please don't get SWPadnos started on LabView
I'm done - I have a new interesting Sudoku book :)
Yeah, the interface for getting the program on the hardware was flaky at best
SWPadnos: Would you like a free version for xp ?
the performance sucked as well, using the 3MGate FPGA compactRio iwth embedded RT PC
jymm, free version of what?
SWPadnos: Oh I don't mind you ranting about LabView, I just know it's a thorn in your side is all.
oh, I have a good printed book, which I prefer
and the version that comes with Ubuntu is quite playable too
SWPadnos: np, it's free and portable as well.
well, if I ever make up a straight XP machine, I'll ask about it ;)
my java solver is quite nice, but it doesn't set new puzzles3
try "Greater than Sudoku". "Product Sudoku", or "Killer Sudoku"
there are no numbers to start, just some relationships or things like cross sums
that's what my next solver is for :)
oh, and worms sudoku
Yeah, I agree that we ran out of CPU pretty quickly on that Labview RT system. It was still fun though. A rather big project just for a test rig for a propellere de-icer
we were trying to get a 1 kHz loop rate on a power supply
was it pre GPU?
it failed miserably
oh wait, 10 kHz was the original goal, we never got any more than 10-100 hZ
i think I saw a gpu-accel labview
We did better than that, I think, 33k6 serial comms
not on embedded hardware
Or perhaps 28k
this is the book I got: http://www.amazon.com/Naked-Sudoku-Philip-Riley/dp/1402765061
that's where carol vorderman went wrong. no stockings
That's what you think
what, does she get em out in her book?