Does having a printer that goes into standby drawing 4 Watts sound liek a lot?
4W*1year*.15$/kWh = $5.259
Eh, it's kinda loud as it never truly goes into standby. I wonder if there's some way to automatically turn it on/off
keep it running :)
what aprt of loud didn't you get?
Anyone here want to help with homing?
youtube crashes for me. Slow Connection
Its time to go home, Thank you for your assistance!
mmmm mobile phone interwebalicious
SWPLinux: I don't see the g540 config files anywhere on gecko's site.. Do you know if they where put somewhere?
When dad is milling now with the linear scales with EMC etc, he is seeing around .1mm vibration on the display (100 counts) during a heavy cut, will that cause problems when its fully CnCed?
do you think the table is actually moving like that?
old sloppy mill yes
I don't know what will happen
and spring in the leadscrew
we all have a different idea of "heavy cut" as well
pjm__ is now known as pjm
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god damn mobile phone internet
I dunno if its moving that far
its doing a 8mm deep cut 20mm wide or so i think
if it's real, emc will probably compensate because the variation is much slower than the servo cycle (this is surely true if he can see it in the display)
if it is not real, and the feedback is bad for some reason, it will not work well. it might oscillate or something.
hard to say which is true
hmmm actually oscilation on an input would be a really bad thing
because it will "correct" even if its not actually moving, or if the movement is taken up by the "spring" in the system
and odds are it'd be something like a fairly powerful correction as its thinking its moving the wrong way so it'll really ramp it up.
Valen: I think you will end up causing more oscillation trying to keep the mill in place
yeah that's why I ask if it's indicating real motion.
hmm I dunno
it's all in your mind, man.
what would you normally see on a metal milling machine?
Valen: I think if you have a sloppy machine you are better off not using linear scales for positioning it
Valen: on a cnc, or a manual one?
sorry for coming in on the ass end of a conversation but what's the indicator problem?
toastatwork<Valen> When dad is milling now with the linear scales with EMC etc, he is seeing around .1mm vibration on the display (100 counts) during a heavy cut, will that cause problems when its fully CnCed?
ballscrew machine, leadscrew machine?
how much backlash
chinese or quality
leadscrew currently, but I believe (or at least i think) he has the slide thats reading the vibration locked down
I'll have to double check that
is he climb or conventional milling
dunno, I'm just the electronics person, It shouldn't make any difference anyway
oh, yes it does
if it's not moving (locked) but the dro says it is, fix that
oh and make sure the locks work
dro mounting is bad maybe
we have a mill where the gibs don't actually lock up when you lock them.
ours didnt, that was fixed
I'd grab the cable and ~ it
and see if the dro changes
what would you expect to see on a DRO type readout doing some decent steel cutting?
a locked axis should see almost no movement.
change smoothly according to machine position
almost being a number of?
but locked - what he says
if it jitters, it should be .001 or less
inches or mm?
with a decent machine much less then +/-0.01
.1mm is huge
even when I get the whole machine bucking back and forth, i don't see movement on the scales
on a well set up bridgeport
which is very close to what toast said
so around .025mm or so would be the "worst case" to aim for
(for the locked axis)
I can see more than .1mm on a manky machine we have in the basement
don't "aim" for a number here
the axis isn't actually moving, it's the scale feeling vibration
on a locked axis or just when your pushing
it shouldnt move if it's locked
yeah i know that
so if anything aim for 0
but its like an anti-backlash ballscrew, the backlash isn't 0 its just "not much"
but a screw isnt the same as a locked axis
dont climb mill with backlash and an acme screw
what is fishy is if the machine was actually moving that much
your missing the point, anonimasu, I don't think you would ever have 0 readings when the whole machine is shaking around, just because the aluminium and glass in the scale wobbles different to the way the cast iron bed
endmills would be breaking left and right
especially in steel
its doing a 8mm deep 20mm wide cut, +-.1mm isnt actually going to make a difference to the mill lol
uh, it is if it's jerking back and forth
I wonder if that is what is causing it, the scale body is vibrating differently to the steel bed
it will absolutely snap an endmill if it suddenly moves in .1mm for one flute
pull on the scale?
see if it feels loose?
its not loose, but it is a meter long and only supported at the ends
and you aren't breaking endmills.
not doing the big incline one anonimasu
Valen: no, I dont have means to machein that in a single setup
aww thats a shame it looked really cool ;->
you could try supporting the scale in more than one place
all the scales we have are supported in the middle and on the ends
and, my other issue is having the spindle off center..
machine the bed up, weld it to the base and go from there
Valen: done bring welding into this.
lol everybody hated on it?
Valen: unless you have a f-huge oven I can borrow
doesn't need to be that hardcore
i mean the oven, couple of cement bricks, some elements a good book and a kitchen timer and your set
um.. tolerance stacks
just drill and tap some holes in the table for like 1/4 bolts
and make yourself a little aluminum clamp
that just bolts on
toastatwork: I had a question for you about offsetting the spindle from the rails
tolerance RMS add if you are lucky
it's not like you've got a load here, it's just to make sure the scale isn't carrying on like some sort of drunk in a hurricane
also if i ping out i apologize but the wireless here is starting to act up
toastatwork: rails one one side, and spindle on the side
not between rails
like a commercial cnc does it.
toastatwork, yeah I'll have a look at the scale
that's a more rigid setup.
big roll lathes do that.
you lose some envelope though
which can suck for a hobby machine
I'll try and head up to his place next time he is doing some stuff and i'll just wedge it with something and see if it effects it
hm, I see, I'll re-arrange a bit and throw a drawing :)
jepler: with a 9A drive you could probably comfortably accellerate at 2g :) (with headroom)
anonimasu: one of the good things about the "Traditional" engine lathe setup is that the cross slide is really maneuverable
if you don't care about that, then the offset head is a good way to go
I can fit a tailstock with that setup too
also you can machine past the tailstock
which is invaluable
and also make the tailstock programmable.
only question is how much the cutting force will end up on my rails
it's about 3700N per mm2 of material removal..
with 80% down \
our machines with rails do not use huge rails
the castings are massive, but the rails are comparatively teeny
like 5550N, for a 3mm deep cut
3mm is a fairly deep cut in steel on a hobby machine
this is a tiny machine too, so if you put the cut depth in compairsion to the machine size spindle power will be limiting that
let me run away for a second I'm gonna start writing down some numbers when I get back
the one thing you do need to watch out for is that a suddenly reversing load on a rail
will damage it
if the reversal overcomes the preload
i.e. the first time you crash it
so given the choice, get the rails with the highest preload
no matter what size you pick
since I don't think you'll be moving 2000 in/min in rapid
what is the mechanism of damage for that?
the rolling elements come out of contact with the rail, and then are hammered back
making some dents in stuff
we've got a grinder that has that damage, it's a pain in the ass
if you have a slide type thing rather than a roller would it be less of a problem?
you mean a box way
i may do
plain bearing etc
yeah, those are really crash resistant
because they're hydrodynamic, there's really nothing to damage
a bushing rather than anything with balls in
i wouldn't go so far to say a bushing, because they're a little different
floating on the oil
but a plain bearing/box way will not be damaged by a hard crash
an air bearing now that would probably be the worst
I can see it actually damaging the bearing itself (more than the slide)
an air bearing can ground out as long as it isn't moving
which describes a crash pretty well
air bearing still have a huge area, balls do not
air bearing machines also tend to be light
and do not generate the crash forces a larger machine with other bearings would
and even in a bigger machine, i doubt the bearing would be damaged
I was more thinking the old run the tool into the chuck type crash
now if you lost air, that will destroy it fast
yeah, that's the kind of thing i'm talking about
* archivist admits nothing about "run the tool into the chuck type crash"
heavy would reduce force on the bearing as the inertia of the carrage would act to absorb it?
no, heavy machines tend not to have air bearings - that was my only point
with a heavy machine you might have problems because the forces are so much greater and the drives so much more powerful
a big machine will continue going in a fairly spectacular crash
you can really crash it good
seen that page with all the pictures of the boat engine?
so where a lighter machine will be like "uh oh, better stop"
a big one just plows right along
as though nothing were going on
the really really big one
with a turbo that you could walk into
now they would have some funky tools lol
what about it?
you could *really* fuck stuff up in that place
I mean we could probably use the swarf off their stuff to make parts out of, just treat it like slightly wonky bar
hammer it flat and you've got yourself 5/8ths bar stock.
toastatwork: I have a quote for thk rails..
* Valen is sitting down
but, I am going with the cheap ones.
what was the thk quot
326 eur per rail and carriage
anonimasu got a couple grand, we can sell you a linear carriage
all set up, ready to bolt on =)
thats actually pretty cheap (in a weird way
if you can make me a deal, for a xy stage for 600 eur we have a deal.
i can get you one of the twelve bearing pads inside the carriage for 600 eur
Valen, how big engines were made http://www.shipsnostalgia.com/guides/William_Doxford_and_Sons#The_Manufacturing_Process
or two, possibly
on stupid mobile internet atm
thk seems really weird in that you have to preload them yourself..
[14:29:56] <anonimasu> https://tech.thk.com/en/products/thk_cat_main_fourth.php?id=1104
Valen, bookmark it and see on a proper monitor later, well worth a look for 1950s machines
ahh yeah i have seen that one
was pretty cool
I'd still like to see making the new ones
their tech docs are weird about preload
what is 600 eur in usd
i guess i could just google it
huh, you can type in: 600 eur in usd
$833.94 says the all-seeing eye of the illuminati
google knows all (jedi finger wave)
yeah, that's what i got too
WE MUST BE USING THE SAME WEBSITE
I think you could build your own air bearing carriage for that
but that would just cover the pads required, not anything else
i.e. the rail
* anonimasu nods
it would certainly have a nice surface finish, anyway
thats just one carrage though? not 2 axes?
you need a bunch of pads per axis, so it adds up fast
even if you use small pads
could probably make your own, though
some aluminum and a lapping plate, done
i have no idea how many of these stupid graphite wafers i've cut, but it isn't enough and i'm out of material
i think i need 120 or some such
i have ~70?
the porous media part of 120 air bearings =/
yay fun compressed filth all the way
heh - I think I was getting 32 in/s^2 confused with 32 ft/s^2 ;)
toastatwork: once the company you work for fires you and flips over because of the conjecture so your NDA ends up invalid, for sure I'll be looking at air bearings :]
good to know i can find stable work in the hobby community
from google it looks like people are making porous media bearings out of edm graphite..
really the only proprietary parts of our process are a) how we tune the bearings, and b) how we assemble them
tune means what?
how you clog the pores to make them give uniform pressure?
knowing what I know now, i would not dick with porous media on my own project unless I had a really good reason to do so
getting them to behave in every sense of the word, flow, uniformity, pressure
hmm, I wonder can you clog the pores with epoxy..
and use force/position gauges to measure how uniform they are..
all excellent questions
and my NDA wishes you well =)
some day im going to do that experiment
though getting graphite here isnt too easy
also i just want to throw out that it's possible you buy graphite that won't work, period, for a bearing
which is why nobody else is any good at porous media other than new way
(one of the reasons why)
for a machine tool I'd be interested in using slot bearings without orifaces
the air consumption is massive but the dynamics of the bearing are supposed to be the best out of any design
they probably have suppliers that can supply the stuff they want
and gunk the other stuff off to edm shops
I saw some resin that ended up porous when you cast it
for making bearings out of
that would be cool
I think that grinder "axtrusion grinder"
or whatever tey call iot
not familiar with it
I'll find it later
toastatw1rk: I cant find it now that the precision machine design page is dead
oh, it was a sloccum thing?
it looked like epoxy
i thought that was his low viscosity hydrostatic grinder
nope, it was air bearing
sorry, it was new way porous air bearings.. they used -_-
it's almost like we know the guy personally
whats the advantage of a porous bearing Vs one that acts more like a hovercraft?
i don't understand the question.
I assume you are pushing air through the graphite surface to make something like a fluid bearing?
the hovercraft ones are sensitive
scratch them and they crash
how is it better than a plate with a bunch of holes?
millions of holes
yeah, but how does that make it "better"
more surface area = stiffer
surface area should be the same
k hold up
on air bearing, the flat parts of the surface do very little load handling
it is wherever the air is being introduced that is actually "the surface" and has the highest bearing force
the further you get away from a slot or oriface, the lower the bearing force is
so what a porous media bearing does is make millions of very tiny orifaces to turn the entire surface into load bearing
so the "force" isnt equal to the pressure under the surface * the surface area?
but with a porous media bearing, it's about accurate
there's some falloff of pressure towards the edges
but in the middle it's mostly linear
heres a thought, porus media air bearing on a ballscrew
probabbly better on an acme style screw actually
difficult to make
easier to just use a linear motor
if it was easy there wouldnt be any fun
Ahh, the bearing is riding in the viscious effect of the air itself
so the force is actually less than you would assume if you just looked at surface * pressure
because there are (in the case of orfice bearings) low pressure spots away from the injection site
but in practice p*a is a good approximation because of the oriface density
for a porous bearing anyway ;->
for an oriface bearing, because they drill a whole lot of orifaces
LawrenceG: how goes it?
Is the axis geometry parameter not in the docs yet?
or am I not looking in the right place?
ah - found it.
question - http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/2.3/html/config_ini_config.html
does clicking on any of the links that have  (like 2.2.1. [EMC] Section ) take you to that section? or is this an IE issue?
Just this once .. here's the log: http://www.linuxcnc.org/irc/irc.freenode.net:6667/emc/2009-07-08.txt
skunkworks_: works for me
Wait for it to load http://producten.hema.nl/
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evening all, anyone know if the nickserv happens to be working today?
I think so
ah ok odd, i will try again!
[17:53:48] <skunkworks_> http://imagebin.ca/img/vHAluTY.jpg
skunkworks, hey.... not too bad here... working on the servo card.... I put in a single axis trajectory planner that mostly works... it seems to misbehave on negative high speed moves... I think there is a hitch in the calculated pwm settings when the drive request more than -50%
LawrenceG: alex_joni SWPadnos... Wait for it to load http://producten.hema.nl/
LawrenceG: your putting motion in your amp?
[18:01:16] <EbiDK|AWAY> http://www.viruscomix.com/subnormality.html
I just plugged in that Saitek game controller, and /dev/xconsole was created, but I can't tail it or cat it. Its all lit up, but no buttons register any data... Whats next?
Hi Chis, slower typing. only 9 fingers. I trimmed my ring fingernail with the jointer a week ago, ouch!
skunkworks_, yea.. it has the smarts and a serial interface already... I have an application where a serial servo would be useful for 1 axis positioning
skunkworks, no co-ordinated motion between axis is intended
Jymmm, somebody had far too much time to build that website!
LawrenceG: I thought it was very creative
gene: I thought game controllers would create something under /dev/input. then you can use the hal_input component.
It did that also but I missed it. I have the wiki page 'a new approach' on another screen, and I'll yelp if that doesn't work.
This pad/stick is a saitek P990, dual aanalog, and possibly more buttons than the P880 in the example.
Ok, problem #1, even sudo can't write to /etc/udev/rules.d/50-input-permissions.rules. Why not?
yes root can write to that. how exactly are you trying to do it?
sudo kate filename, but I found that a sudo vim filename worked just fine. something doofy with kate, as usual. Back to the script, thanks
[18:53:38] <frallzor> http://pici.se/435823/ http://pici.se/435824/
anyone want to guess why solidcam want to leave restmaterial and not just "kill" all? =)
I guess I'll have to reboot after adding that udev rule, loaduser can't find SAITEK yet. brb
frallzorprobably because you are using the wrong kind of toolpath
what is the best for that
I'd do like paralell rough
and then do flowline finishing
if you have that
it's where you cut respecting surface normals to get a nice finish
maybe its crossfinnish in solidcam?=
[19:07:54] <anonimasu> http://www.steptools.com/library/stepnc/ap238_samples/surface_machining/index.html
<- good to look at
looks like some web
yeah that sounds like that
indeed it was
but i found the biggest issue
the distance between rows
for surface finish?
it was 1mm at zigzag
set to 0.5 and it looks really nice with flowline
there's a magical formula for what gives you the best finish
where the stepover is the same as the chip size
how to see the chip size
you calculate that off speed/feed
dont know that yet so It have to wait then =)
if you have any idea about the material you could look at dormer "smartselector" tool
bah, damn konqi, how do I actually download joyhandle.ko as a friggin binary with it? A right click does something but goes away in 1/2 second.
well I know exactly what material it is :P
the joyhandle.ko from the wiki is probably useless to you, unless you happen to be running the exact same emc2 version as that page author
you want to get joyhandle.comp and sudo comp --install joyhandle.comp
[19:14:31] <jepler> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?ContributedComponents#How_to_compile_and_install_a_component
> First, install the emc2-dev (sudo apt-get install emc2-dev) and build-essential packages (sudo apt-get install build-essential). If the component does not provide specific installation instructions, then try these general instructions:
sudo comp, command not found. build-essentials is installed AFAIK
no it wasn't! must have been in a previous life
that paragraph lists two packages to install anyway
gene@shop:~/emc2$ sudo comp --install joyhandle.comp
sudo: comp: command not found
make sure you get both
looks like one is the manpage?
sudo apt-get install emc2-dev
looks like I can't get either package, and dapper is too old a gtk to run FF now...
ok, that last worked :)
* frallzor is a bit happy that he understands solidcam
I wish I understood the thk rail mounting instructions
I wish I could my anything at all :P
waiting for retrofitkit from damencnc =)
but the result is just a small wee little cnc for cibatoolmodels =)
now where the heck did it put joyhandle.ko?
PUR-foam, kind of
but made in blocks for modelling
[19:34:48] <frallzor> http://pici.se/p/VYIETXpKm/
this is a block of cibatool =)
1500x500x50 will last some time :P
this looks odd, from a rebuild of joyhandle.ko: cp joyhandle.ko /usr/realtime-2.6.15-magma/modules/emc2/
how does modprobe find it there?
hal finds it
doesn't seem to, although the loadusr linee does not error now.
I see a bunch of buttons, but only 2 respond.
and now they are gone, and it does not now load
it being the loadusr line
humm I just overwrote my joypad_v3,hal with yours, I'll recheck
halcmd: loadusr -W hal-input -KRAL Saitek
<stdin>:0: execv(hal-input) failed
<stdin>:0: hal-input exited without becoming ready
you misspelled hal_input
grrr, anybody want a sore finger? :)
hmm how odd, my pocketmilling messes up real bad for some reason in simulation
* EbiDK|AWAY curses the suckyness that is CyberCity
gene: did you loose a few mm of finger?
Can I assume show pin is real time? I can only see 2 events, one for the button called FRS and one for the button labeled 'analog', and yes, abouit 5mm of it.
Hows Sam today?
you are pretty lucky anyways.
I am good - should be home working on the garage.
[19:51:43] <frallzor> http://pici.se/p/EkorscdhT/
anyone wanna guess why solidcam does this? =) How its supposed to be is pretty obvious but that little circlethingy isnt planned
no other buttons generate an event. Great, good to hear.
I take it garage=new skunkworks. Got pix?
frallzor: Got some code for that too?
hmm should have
[19:54:48] <frallzor> http://pastebin.com/m6426a9f9
its the first thing it does
do that odd beanshaped thing
it looks liek a rampin
I lucked out when I was younger and just nipped the skin off the tip of my index finger in a jointer/planer.
EbiDK|AWAY any ideas? =)
frallzor: do you have a leadin programmed?
how to tell?
it didnt do something like that on the 3dmilling
and why would a leadin do the full depth on on spot and then do the rests in the steps i want?
didsable the leadin and see
* anonimasu curses the cad program
emc2 startup err at <http://pastebin.ca/1488777>
I want to draw central lubing lines :@
frallzor: I'm not sure, I'm not good at this stuff and haven't played with g-code in a few weeks. Only odd thing I can see is that you have some negative radi but I don't know if that's allowed or meaningful
anonimasu dont know where it could be
but I still dont see the meaning of a useless "lead-in" if that is what it is
it does it first, then do the rest
no leadins or ramp etc etc
but when i set it looks like there is
origin where the odd shape is
hm, that's weird
re-did operation, same thing
I have no ideas on why its doing this =)
I did the 3d-operation but cant figure out a pocket :P
I got just a cut once before, slow learner I guess
I used the pocket recognition, now it works
[20:15:00] <anonimasu> http://www.io23.net/ul/files/lathe1021.png
Thats quite a bit bigger project than mine was.
It has been a few months :)
Has anybody looked at <http://pastebin.ca/1488777>
all by yourself?
with a bit of help from friends
for the heavy stuff
same here, I did 98% of it alone
Does anyone know where to buy rack screws locally? HD and lowes dont carry the right ones. and I'm tired of these POS ones that just strip the head out
Better screwdriver bit maybe?
ok, found that one SAITEK != Saitek, but now there is another missing var, joypad_v3.hal:38: parameter or pin 'halui.jog-speed' not found
and this is new ground for me...
the mapage says the pin is halui.jog.speed
also you need to specify [HALUI]HALUI=halui in your inifile -- you may not have activated halui yet
er, [HAL] HALUI = halui
I have really good luck with these http://www.shop.com/+-a-vermont+american+philip+bits+%232-p226527167-g1-k24-st.shtml
Looks like I need a whole bunch of pin aliases, huge diff between the show pin screen and the error msg named pin. Am I still missing a file.hal somehow?
Jymmm: do you have a fastenal?
emc says it needs a "joypad_v3.hal:63: pin 'input.3.abs-rz-position' does not exist" which is one I added for the A axis, I'll comment the A stuffs.
gene: the input.3.abs-rz-position might not exist for your joystick type
without that, it is working! I have several sspare buttons and stick axises though.
The right stick drives x & y, and the left stick drives z for to/from, left/right is unused. spindle is the two buttons at 9=on and 3(pm)=off
running the logo in air, there is not an e-stop equ, so that also needs addressed. I have 9 spare buttons and another 8 axis pad left.
Lots of toys. :) And the motion scaling seems to be good, I can creep up to 15 ipm. Great!
skunkworks 6 of em, thanks
Alex: this is a Saitek p990, it has a few more buttons. Are they not used by joyhandle.ko?
gene: loadusr hal_input
then hal show
and you'll see what it detects, and what is available
it doesn't show anything unless I "loadusr -W hal_input -KRAL Saitek"
then it shows xyz stuff only.
about 36 signals
skunkworks This is what I typically use... http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDepotCanada/images/catalog/2ed3ff24-deba-47b5-be0b-0290d1a5ca48_4.jpg
skunkworks Jsut shove it in a cordless drill and you're good to go
right - that is what I do with those bits. (with a extention) but they seem to have a really good lifespan and have little teeth on the edges that grip. I use them for putting deck screws in.
skunkworks Ah, ok. someone suggested to use hex mushroom heads, might not be a bad idea.
The 'torx' head stuff seems to be a better idea, bits last longer
Yes - I agree
Yeah, and less of me having to drill out the stripped screws - Though I have a frog set now =)
Morning everyone, I am looking for help with homing and index bits
and my back is about ~30~ so this project can wait. next time I'll post my joypad.hal & we'll see if we can mae a couple more things work. Thanks everybody.
[21:44:56] <Jymmm> http://www.walgreens.com/store/product.jsp?id=prod4253869&CATID=100523&skuid=sku4252739&V=G&ec=frgl_514758&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=sku4252739
is 61000 lines of g-code much? =P
it depends on what your gcode does :]
then i have another problem :P
for me yes
it takes forever to run it in emc2
even with jog = 6000 mm/min
err adding in the start of your program
one min, pastebin :P
[21:48:43] <frallzor> http://pastebin.com/m1a8f0b3c
Just throw it into your program somewhere :)
the Q is, where, shitload of GXX
[21:49:17] <anonimasu> http://pastebin.com/m172aadc2
should I see the difference? =)
G90 G00 G40 G55 G64
how should one know what it does and why its there? :P
[21:52:07] <anonimasu> http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html/gcode_main.html
1.22 G61, G61.1, G64 Set Path Control Mode
it makes your tiny line segments merge if they are colinear
that's not exactly true
well it didnt help a bit :)
g64 makes it keep the feed at the commanded value, even if that means it can't follow the commanded path exactly
or round things off..
even though Im not setup correctly, the speed remains the same at 6000mm/min
should it be faster?
the 6000mm/min is waaaaaaaaaaay below that atm :)
superwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay even in the "simulation" in emc2
so im guessing it might just be a configissue atm
but does one tell emc2 the speed or while doing cam?
both, part of the configuration of emc is the maximum acceleration and velocity permitted by your motors
and in the campart?
I dunno how your cam software works, but part programs specify the "F number" or feed rate as appropriate
your cam software might pick an appropriate value based on what you tell it about material, tooling and spindle
issue is it only got materials like steel, Al etc etc
not the one Im using
I might have to edit the PP too
using generic fanuc
what material are you using
toastyde1th: I have a picture for you in a sec
[22:07:17] <anonimasu> http://www.io23.net/ul/files/Assembled%20Lathe.png
toastyde1th in cam atm but planning to use cibatool
*none in cam
frallzor: i meant the physical material you're trying to cut
not cutting anything yet, just trying to cam and run in emc
but as I said, planning to use cibatool
* anonimasu yawns
toastyde1th: looks like a better arrangement dosent it?
oh i didn't see the picture, sorry
...Where's the headstock?
not drawn/designed yet
im re-arranging everything with thk rails
for X as that will carry most load
and they had cad files ;)
im going with cheaper slides for the other axis..
err a cheaper slide
and drive it off center
You could always put the headstock on the X axis
really just a big plate parallel to Z, with the rails perpindicular
that way you could mount the headstock, and also have a slot in it for tailstock
but then I need to slide the motor and all
yeah just put the whole thing on the plate.
and I cant use a tailstock with that setup easily
sure you could
you have all that space above the Z axis as you've got it drawn
just put a big tooling plate there.
make the plate your X axis.
let's talk abotu the same axes because im lost
the stuff my cad calls them :}
im not familiar with lathes
oh uh, Z is toward and away from the spindle
and X is the diameter
I think sticking the X on top of my Z axis as I have it drawn is a good idea
I need that so I get the tooling height right too
well, yes, that would be a standard lathe
make the spindle sliding, and stick another rail arrangement like I have..
for the Z
and another turret ;)
why would you need three different movements for Z
or am i confused
you are confused
I'll have only Z and X
oh, you're saying make a twin turret lathe
I think I'll have the spindle stationary because it's easier, and have a rail below it with the tailstock
not as cool though
we have a lathe at work where the spindle moves for Z
and there's just a t-slotted plate for X
* anonimasu nods
I like the idea
I need to draw my motors up
I have some 0.66Nm servos
i don't know anything about motor sizing
unfortunately you might have just said "tomato waffle curling iron"
i don't know how much force it takes to drive an axis =(
depends on how you cut
LIKE A BAT OUT OF HELL
i demand overkill
well, for this machine they should be big enough :)
i wish somebody made a really grunty small lathe, like, 5" swing, but 10 hp
monarch 10ee is about the closest i've found to that
and the rivett 1020
I dont know if im going to bother to do the calcs about motors
I have them, and I have screws already
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