i still say an edgefinder is the most cost-effective, as well as just plain effective, solution
nothin' wrong with the mechanical method
i'm not exactly sure how mechanical edge finders work
stick it in the spindle, turn it on to 700 rpm
the end of it is held on by a spring in the body
so when you flick it, it spins all crazy
as you bring it closer to the part, it makes contact and starts to wobble less and less
when you are at the edge of the radius of the tip
it kicks out.
max 1000 rpm ...
you then know your spindle is .1" or .25" or whatever away from the edge of the part
really easy to see
oh, sounds simple enough
and you can test your edgefinder by measuring a known block, then edgefinding both sides.
maybe i'll just get one and give it a try
just be sure to debur the edge of your part
I can locate the X and Y edge in a minute with +- 0.0001" accuracy
yeah and bigjohnt's mention of the 1000 rpm max thing, that is important.
if you have like a router spindle or something
an edgefinder is not going to work
nah i have a "real" mill spindle
with a ac servo driving it
maxes out at 3000rpm or so
I keep one in a tool holder all the time
i take mine out
because other people will use it, and then leave it in a machine
and then it gets coolant and chips all over and doesn't work so well afterwards
noone would dare use mine :/
Anyone here know a vendor/wholesaler which deals in 2205 Duplex ? Having a very hard time sourcing a pipe for my sterntube
cause I I bought the other John his own :)
Dallur: what is it?
BigJohnT: 2205 ? it's a high grade stainless steel, like 316 but withstands acids, pitting and cracking much better
ok, I knew that mine was stainless but not what grade it was...
you looking for finished size tube?
BigJohnT: most people just use 304 or 316 but I want to play it safe :)
[00:15:37] <DaViruz> http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1960&category=
is this what i'm looking for?
BigJohnT: Just looking for stock pipes/tubes
BigJohnT: I have a lathe so I can work with it
looks like a bunch of google hits on 2205 stainless tube
BigJohnT: I have sent close to 20 mails to most of those I found on Ebay, so far only one solid reply and min order was 6m (18ft) for which they quoted $3000, (2" OD .25" wall thickness)
better to just deal with a metal dealer on that one that way you can get it cut to length
thought perhaps someone here knew a source for these Duplex steels
BigJohnT: yeah, all I need is 2m (6ft)
so how is the boat is it skinned up?
BigJohnT: not finished but I'll be done with the radius sections in about a week
[00:23:34] <Dallur> http://www.dallur.com/index.php?id=129
let me just turn on the lights
* BigJohnT sings the final jepordy song while the web page loades
Dallur: she is looking good!
hmm should i wave ?
yes, but I don't see you
did you see me there ?
I need to make a "Made with EMC2" sign on the boat
hey it looks like a boat
yeah, it's starting to look a bit like it should
Ill step outside again, btw sometimes the image stops reloading so you have to refresh the web page
hmmm if only it were a canoe...
I get an image about once every 30 seconds or so
there you are
dats a big canoe....
still don't know how to operate the oar
some sort of hydraulic system :)
video feed making me seasick
you have to roll it around thru your hand..
you need Vikings for the oars
it's a bit windy outside
and that structure is a radar dome so it shakes in the wind
(the house i
the house i'm building in is actually 1/3 of a radar dome, aluminum frame
is that the top or BOTTOM of the boat???
dinner time here talk to you later...
dmess: it's built upside down so your looking at the bottom
ok and the top will be???
dmess: I'll turn it over around xmas and put the top on
click on the boatbuilding link in the menu
there is also a gallery of the process, need to update it though http://www.dallur.com/index.php?id=44&tx_lzgallery_pi1[showUid]=8
ive built and repaired canoe' for yrs..
that looks like quite the labour of love...
dmess: so mostly woodwork then ?
dmess: I started the project around 6 years ago, it's actually the reason I got into CNC, I built my plasma cnc table to build the boat
cedar and canvas fiberglass.. kevlar... carbon fiber...
i actually HATE wood...
dmess: lol, I don't mind working with it but maintenance is another matter
i work wood on metal machines
dmess: for hardwoods I would imagine it's often a better solution
my idea of carPenting is 2 base coats and 2 clear coats
[01:06:01] <JymmmEMC> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9616m6GFjQ
I installed the new version of flash, and youtube is dead to me now
was the older version broken?
some things wouldn't play
would ubuntu help?
I can palay ALL flash in a browser, but some won't play outside of a browser
I would like to upgrade my firefox, but I'm too lazy
I can't help ya on that one.
(I'm all out of ammo)
eric_u: Ok, I lie. I'm not out of ammo, just too lazy to use it to help you with your laziness ;)
I think my best bet is to buy a new hard drive and install ubuntu
and what, dual boot?
no, fix the current drive to mount somewhere that it doesn't hurt anything
I just mean that you can't have two /
try it :)
I have, no problem.
Actually four at the same time
but only one drive has the root of the file system
It's called virtual machines
I just tried to make my windows disk into a virtual machine and failed
it never started up
the only indication I got that it worked at all was that I heard the sound that windows plays when it shuts down
you have to convert whole-disk installs to run under VMWare
otherwise the drivers are all wrong
worked well enough to play the sound windows makes when it's shutting down, which I thought was pretty impressive
no startup/BIOs stuff?
never saw a display
that's weird. that's independent of the installed OS
I'm going to uninstall and try again
it seemed to install properly, but when I ran the management console it didn't work well at all
JymmmEMC: "but some won't play outside of a browser" <- probably because debian's mplayer doesnt have h264 codec, but debian multimedia does
debian multimedia's version of mplayer, i mean
i assume there's some silly legal reason that applies to your preferred distro as well
i don't get return to initial point vs. return to R plane
does anyone use return to R plane
fenn: I use VLC, but the version of ubuntu I use doens't have the latest VLC version
found my bore light! woohoo!
toastydeath: I have never used G98/G99 so I guess I get the default, which is to retract to R between cycles
is that the emc default?
you should check the manual to be sure though - like I said I've never worried about it
(I use canned cycle with repeats all the time)
i was playing around with it the other day and couldn't figure out why anyone would use g99
what does g99 do?
g99 is return to R plane after cycle
g98 is return to initial Z point
oh at the end of all the repeats where does it leave it?
eh, who cares
so I'm with you (I think)
as long as it's above the work ;)
well, me, because I sometimes set the R plane to something like -2.0
for deep counterbores
so that when i'm drilling in that counterbore, the peck doesn't have to come all the way back out
oh, interesting case
it just comes up to -2 and goes back down
then, since it returns to origin, it comes all the way back up to z0.1 to move
between repeats you'd need it to come higher
rapids back down to -2.0
and starts drilling
if g99 is live, that would crash.
wonder which plane repeats go to...
quick test is to initial point at like z5.0, and R.1
you ought to program your G98s then!
i do program my g98's =)
what was the question again? :-)
why anyone would se g99!
"A gcode gives me what I want" "so I program it" "then it works"
in what cases is g99 more useful than g98
dangit you're going to make me go read the help aren't you
i don't knoww!
I can move to an arbitrary height above the work and start a peck cycle with G99
since it will return to the R plane
ok: initial point above clamps, retract point just over the work, repeats are all inside the clamps
cradek: it NEVER goes back to intial point in g99.
so in that instance you might as well be using g98.
but i can see swpadnos's point
sort of, i guess
(sorry I guess I don't want to read the docs enough times for it to sink in)
I guess a reason for it would be like your counterbore example, but on something like a mold for a computer mouse
you might be drilling into several pockets of varying depth, through the R plane is likely to be the same in all the holes (since they're probably all along a flat parting line)
i don't get why that would be a use for g99
so you move up somewhere above each hole (radically different heights), then do the peck cycles (same or closer to the same height)
all it does is save you a move to the retract height you want
oh, you're talking about repeats.
there goes another pterodatcyl!
yeah i guess i just don't get why the extra "z.1" is so arduous that they'd include a g-code to avoid having to bring the tool down to height
i am think there's got to be some special case where it's critical
it's gotta have something to do with repeats
i don't know
i just don't put an R plane in if i want it to peck and finish at the same height
oh - interesting. if R is above the initial height, it'll go to R
you have to put an R
yes pretty sure
not on what i use
if you leave it empty it just uses the current Z height for everything
the R word is always sticky
I think that would be nice
dunno what emc does, I'm just saying what the machines at work do
I often program R0 with G91 repeats because the interaction there is silly
it's just confusing otherwise - too easy to get the wrong depth
i don't think you can do that on fanuc in incremental
inc/abs do not apply to i/j/k/r/q etc
i could be way wrong though
the nice thing about standards is there are so many to choose from
like a buffet
nothing is interoperable
G0 and G1 are, sometimes
except when they're not
yeah except some controls add R and C words
yes or have different decmial point formats
my HNC did not have G0
you had to program G1 F80000 X10000 instead of 'G0 X1'
maybe it was F8000, I dunno
but 8 something (high bit of feed word set)
feeds in hex?
no, just with no decimal
no, silly, it's centiinches per minute or some damn thing
up to 80000 or 8000 or some other number with an 8 in it
well, you said high bit so ...
f1000 = f1.0
that is a funny trick to play on the instructors at school who do not know much about cnc
oh, I see what you're getting at
"OH MY GOD A THOUSAND INCHES PER MINUTE"
toastydeath, have you read the emc2 manual regarding R and canned cycles?
swpadnos: i have not
just my fanuc manual
the 8 wouldn't mean anything special if it is decimal, which it is
do you have a link?
well, read that before asking stupid questions, OK? :)
I'm not using emc, swpadnos
I can't explain it
I'd have to look at the schematic to see where that number ended up
the manual is on the linuxcnc site, I don't have the link at the moment
but here's the thing about R
EMC2 does return to the R plane
additionally, the first move to the R plane is a traverse
not a feed move
that wasn't in question
ok, hold on - I need to read more :)
you have to type the same number of characters going from g99 and bringing the machine down
as you do in g98 and bringing the machine down
so why have g99?
why have G98?
it's the same number of characters after all
just the initial hole is the same number of characters.
I don't know actually. and I'm not likely to learn enough by reading the manual tonight to be able to tell you :)
g98 uses the R plane as the peck retract point
and moves to the intial point to move to the next hole
then rapids back down to that peck point.
Up, over, down, peck, up, over, down, peck.
whether you type R.1 or Z.1
the result is the same on g99.
R also rapids into the hole at the start of the cucle
not if you don't tell it to.
the first move of the cycle is a rapid to R, then it starts the Z move(s)
in R mode
"r mode" is decided by g98/g99
so which r mode are you talking about
the issue is not the start behavior, either
it's the END behavior
well, I don't know what to tell you. it's obviously there, I don't kow why
* toastydeath shrug
because someone put it there silly
that's really the only thing i can think of - g98 is more complex behavior, so maybe it didn't exist in the earliest implementations of g-code
what I remember (long ago) is the g98/g99 behavior was as follows:
g98 - rapid from starting Z level to R level - feed to Z depth - rapid out to starting Z level
g99 - rapid from starting Z level to R level - feed to Z depth - rapid out to R level
that is correct
my question is why does g99 exist at all
i asked on pm as well, maybe someone there has some ridiculous usage for g99
a subsequent motion line with XY motion would result in the machine moving to the XY location and feeding to Z depth and the a rapid out the the appropriate level
g99 was to eliminate the extra Z motion up to the starting Z level - a time saver
imagine a grid of holes
i guess, i have never called a canned cycle from a spot that wasn't the depth i wanted to start at
if I want to move between holes at z.1, i just say "z.1; g98 blabhjab"
rather than use g99 and R.
in the days when you had a certain (small) number of blocks of program storage, I'd imagine saving the motion and the extra command would be a good thing
ah, that makes sense.
as machine motion became faster the need for g99 mostly disappeared
drip feed and computers probably helped too
cradek: did that big bird carry you off?
ate him, I think
i have just recently started using macro A in programs
stustev1: sorry, no, you won't get rid of me that easily
cradek: it seemed as if you just dropped of the face of the earth - you had seen a BIG bird - i just wondered :)
busy talking to a friend who needs my help tomorrow - no time to play in the shop for me.
the hard disk on the lathe is failing - I have a new one to put in.
sometimes life gets in the way - we just have to minimize it
yeah, life and work are the two biggest time sucks
i find that computers come in close for second
no, I don't use those
computers are what we live for
compute to live, don't live to compute!
cradek: try CF instead of hard drive
fenn: that's a bit tempting. have you done it?
when we do something stupid, computers become the #1 time-suck
cradek: no, but that's my plan
* jmkasunich_ did something dumb - downloaded doom2.wad
jmkasunich_ is now known as jmkasunich
damn. I wish I had a big garage: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360109375345
anda big truck and a big electrical service
now that's a lathe
yeah - is that live tooling in half the tool positions, or is it me?
those are standard straight shank holders
there's another one for sale from the same place, except it has a 12" chuck on it :)
ok,they looked like boring bars, but the round holders had me going
not live, unfortunately =(
clear out your garage, man!
what are you waiting for.
I'd have to knock out the bedrooms above it
oh, it's reliable tool
that lathe will probably hit 8k
the machine is in Iowa
no, i mean reliable upbids
they list everything at .01 and then put a sniper on it
yeah, their auctions are often higher than I expect
so if they aren't going to get what they want, they keep it
really shady but sometimes you can get a deal
they have called people up and offered stuff to them.
well that's no good
it's a nice lathe, though
another one from them: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360109015949
i really like that style of turret
I wonder if that kind can be CNC'ed reasonably easily
yeah, that's a nice big machine
well there's another style, where everything is straight shanks
and one awkard tap
and the tool's knocked out of position
but i dunno about the AHC, it's all air over hydro
no leadscrews, or anything else
yeah, it's supposed to be "pprogrammable", but for very small values of programming
yeah, there's a drum of switches
kinda like punchcards, except fixed
and the limits are set with screws
I think it has something like 3" of travel too
maybe a little more, but not by much
this one looks nice too, btu I can't remember whether people like LeBlond or not: http://cgi.ebay.com/Leblond-Makino-15-Regal-Servo-Shift-Engine-Lathe_W0QQitemZ250328572724QQihZ015QQcategoryZ97230QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
leblond is very good
the servo shift goes once in awhile but you can still get parts from the company
I have used that exact model, actually
very accurate, very quiet.
and a decent amount of grunt at 3hp
I'd want to retrofit though, and I don't know if I want another project like the BP
it's a toolroom oriented lathe, not huge horsepower like a Monarch, but it has good accuracy
(since I haven't done that one yet ;) )
we use the servo shifts at work an love them
hardinge made a HCNC, someone in here was in the process of converting one
and several people have on CNCzone
they usually go cheap
cradek has one, and I almost bought one
well, CHNC anyway
ok :) (I never know)
LeBlond still sells parts and can tell you all about the history of the particular machine that you have
[05:39:42] <SWPadnos> http://cgi.ebay.com/LeBlond-Makino-Barron-25-Lathe_W0QQitemZ300274766894QQihZ020QQcategoryZ97230QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
u guys use solid works when drawing designs?
there's a Monarch EE on there too
I uually use paper these days
i use paper then solidworks
SWPadnos, then what, u use mastercam?
I don't do any mechanical stuff at the moment :)
I use Altium Designer for electronics though
and then i write the gcode by hand
swpadnos: there are several "older" cnc machine
by okuma and leblonde
flat bed, engine lathe style
missing a control.
what do you mean by chnc ish
well, if you notice one that's not too expensive (like under $2k), let me know
the format of the CHNC is a flat bed
rather than the slant beds and bigass cabinets
except most of these have dual turrets on one cross slide
they're all also 22"x80"ish
2000+ rpm spindles
so that's probably not what you are looking for
but they're not tall, like the enclosed slant bed machines
size will be an issue
my garage door opens to about 7 feet
if i come across one in the next few weeks, i'll let you know
yeah, they're under that
so that's the max height
they're 6' or under
SWPadnos: grab a sawzall and fix that easil
something pretty small may still allow me to park inthe garage
spwlower the foundayion
whoa, that looks like I'm drunk. lol
oh, we're doing that - didn't repave the driveway
yeah, the driveway raises several inches in the winter (near the garage doors anyway)
so eventually it'll pump out the dirt under the garage slab
[05:52:59] <toastydeath> http://machinetools.com/MT/machines/index.tmpl?page=detail&ListingID=120966266419099296
[05:53:07] <toastydeath> http://machinetools.com/MT/machines/index.tmpl?page=detail&ListingID=115947878348190718
here's one for 5 grand
[05:53:33] <toastydeath> http://machinetools.com/MT/machines/index.tmpl?page=detail&ListingID=121752750439541421
that kind of machine, but that's a commercial site so the prices are ridiculous
uh, I only have 40A 1PH service in the garage ;)
here's one with better pictures on ebay =/
[05:55:34] <toastydeath> http://cgi.ebay.com/MAZAK-M-4-x-60-centers-CNC-lathe-with-FANUC-6T-control_W0QQitemZ160282533001QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Lathes?hash=item160282533001&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A3|39%3A1|240%3A1318
no dice for a RPC i guesS?
rotary phase converter
heh, no, not mine for sure
it's a lightweight 5HP
only 25 more hp to go!
that would be just about the entire service to my house
well, half anyway
well you have to figure any machine like that you are going to have to turn the spindle accel dowwn
that' really the only time they draw even 5 hp
like to 2% or so
something like a CHNC could actually run on 40A
i have the mesa card , help me
there are people on this channel?
it's 4 AM in north america, try coming back in five or six hours
also, you will get a better response if you simply state what you expected to happen and what happened instead
oh, and also exactly what you did and what version emc
OoBIGeye_: Can you fix your connection, your throttling
hello room. New to the this chat though been looking into linuxcnc for quite some time.
I was wondering about using it for the opposite... CMM
read where the encoders are and give me the coordinates. instead of telling the encoders to go to a coordinate
elmo99: that will work easily. lots of people have cnc mills with cranks on them - when you turn off the motors, emc automatically does just what you describe as you turn the cranks
for very high resolution encoders/scales like you find on a CMM, you will need some hardware to count the encoder signals fast enough. There are several options that work well with EMC2.
[15:34:52] <cradek> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?EMC2_Supported_Hardware
here is some information
you want something with "encoder inputs"
some good choices would be mesa 5i20 + mesa 7i33T, or pico pwm controller.
much appreciated :)
trying to save up enough cash to build a system. really tough these days.
do you already have a CMM but no computer part for it?
starting from scratch
we have one a work, though ;) That is my inspiration
then the CMM itself will be your big expense I bet
and then there's moving it!
I will make one of those 'wand' type cmm's. Human Movement.
if you have old computers around, that part is cheap - the special encoder counting hardware would be only a couple hundred
yeah those are neat. it's amazing how they get the wand to move smoothly. very complex machines.
are you near ohio? I bet you could find one at HGR with a little patience
[15:50:30] <cradek> http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/search-products/product-detail.aspx?id=10-399-169&searchtable=1&sortExpression=&SortASC=&pageSize=50¤tPageIndex=0
or without any patience :-)
several choices < $500
Email this item to a friend
lol, let's email a machine, shall we?
[16:12:33] <Guest435> http://www.electronicsam.com/images/KandT/servostart/tighter.png
Guest435 is now known as skunkworks
that does it
windows managed to fragment one file into 3992 chunks
are you still making your own boards?
sorry, addressed to skunkworkds
cradek: no, I am not even in the States
skunkworks: wgat is that layout of?
PWM servo drive
actually a heavy duty H-bridge which, when driven with a nice PWM waveform, will drive a servo
I needed to tighten it up.. My willy nilly running some of the traces on the last board caused some issues.
[16:18:03] <skunkworks> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGF07oVkl6M
nice way of mounting the motor :p
skunkworks: nice vid.
I am a little bit of a n00b when it comes to open-closed loop servos. Which is preferred for CMM machine?
a CMM required feedback, which is the main complaint people have against closed loop
[16:31:41] <skunkworks> http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=530093&postcount=11
I would think you would want scales. (like atleast 2 loops - velocity and position)
suunny here.. Should go out and work on the yard.
sunny and cold here
well - cold. sort of. 33f
only 7F here!
stustev - doesn't this machine look like the one we were messing with at your shop? http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/search-products/product-detail.aspx?id=80-224-018&searchtable=2&sortExpression=wbprice&SortASC=Yes&pageSize=50¤tPageIndex=0
(the two knobs at top front look familiar)
jmkasunich: get this one: http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/search-products/product-detail.aspx?id=90-185-007&searchtable=2&sortExpression=&SortASC=&pageSize=50¤tPageIndex=0
Additional Information: 3575 LBS
the price is right, but not the size
actually, that seems insanely heavy, although it's hard to tell exactly how big it is
it says you can e-mail it...
jmkasunich: the biggest I've ever seen was 2000lbs payload :D
Weight 4950 kg :)
wonder what this one weighs: http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/search-products/product-detail.aspx?id=80-224-018&searchtable=2&sortExpression=wbprice&SortASC=Yes&pageSize=50¤tPageIndex=0
Additional Information: 4275 LBS ?
or was it the wrong link?
[18:12:21] <jmkasunich> http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/search-products/product-detail.aspx?id=42-522-009&searchtable=2&sortExpression=wbprice&SortASC=Yes&pageSize=50¤tPageIndex=0
jmkasunich: the link shows a newer model than the one in my shop - it is the same type and size - I don't see the control panel
gnome's strange clipboard drives me batty
jmkasunich: ah, was looking at that too
the robot feels like 3-400 lbs max
the control might be double than that
I have too many projects already ;-)
pfft, it's too small to strap a chair to :p
you guys need to really watch jeff dunham's christmas special ;)
Ah, alex is goin redneck on us =)
JymmmEMC: seen it?
alex_joni: I know who Jeff Dunham is =)
I reckon you would..
(no, I haven't)
or maybe I have, if it's just the old on.
archivist, you about today?
Hello All.... Does the Int30 type holders employ a drawbar?
toastydeath: Yep International 30 taper tool holder.
not familiar with that incarnation of the 30 taper toolholder
Specifically a clarkson autolock int30 holder.
This is a an 50int but is pretty much the same but for size. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Clarkson-Autolock-Collet-Chuck-50INT-Large-Series-50_W0QQitemZ150053376086QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET?hash=item150053376086&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
dunno, i only use cat and bt toolholders
never seen an int, much less anything called autolock
they can use drawbars
toastydeath: No worries, thanks for the input anyhow
autoloc is a bastardized 40'ish taper with drive dogs so its quick change
eric_u: The reason I ask is that I have just had a Beaver Model A installed (new purchase) it uses 30 INT tooling and came with an clarckson autolock and 4 collets. The soindle has a hole in the center but there is no drawbar.
I have been looking for spindles. CAT40 in particular. I can not locate any for sale. Only complete machines ;) Any ideas where to get pieces for machines?
Paragon: you sure that's not nmtb 30? My BP has no drawbar and uses 30 nmtb
there is a locking nut at the bottom
eric_u: that is called QC30 (erickson quick change)
NMTB30 uses a draw bar
if you say so
eric_u: No it it does say 30int
that tool you posted does look like they intended for some kind of retention mechanism
There is a hole that goes right through the spindle. The 30int tool holder has a thread in the top also. So I recon it requires a drawbar of some type. I may need to cut one.
According to this it is 30int for sure... http://www.lathes.co.uk/beaver/page5.html
does your machine look like the one pictured? because it looks like you need a drawbar
eric_u: Well spotted I missed .... Oh my ;-)
eric_u: Well spotted I missed that! .... Oh my ;-)
Looks like I have to fab one.
Anither question regarding drawbar. The beaver has a 3inch quil if one tightens the drawbar will not stop movement being performed by the quil?
the drawbar rotates with the quill
Sure but the Z axis movement of the quill?
a drawbar is part of the quill
I assume your talking about a mill of some sorts
looks like the very old bridgeport type mill
So the draw bar moves up and down with the quill I presume? I am not in the workshop at the moment so view it.
in most machines of that type the quill has to be up to tighen or loosen the draw bar
...and dont forget to remove the wrench =)
SWPadnos: Heh, I liked how they certified us and reiterated that fact =)
you only forget that once :)
BigJohnT: I got the mill delivered and installed yesterday along with a Boxford AUD lathe. So still playing around with it. Both the lathe and mill are 3ph but the lathe and a digital inverter thrown in which I wired up today and is working great :-) I tempoarliy swapped the 3ph motor for a 2ph which was off of my old lathe. This is until I build a 3ph rotary converter.
BigJohnT: SWPadnos and I hit TechShop, and the person certifying us kept reiterating that fact MANY times... NEVER PLACE THE WRENCH *ANYWHERE* but back on it's holder.
* JymmmEMC new bestest friend in the world is rsync!
or the chuck key!
my drill press has a holder for the chuckkey, if I don't put it back there, I'd lose it! lol
I've lost a few in my time. I swear I have a black hole in the workshop floor. ;-)
even more fun is the lathe chuck key! It can fly quite far...
I taught my partner how to run a mill and the first thing I told him was Rule #1 never leave the key in the chuck or the drawbar wrench on the drawbar
I had a dodgy connection that developed on an old motor I had it kicked in breifly while I was in the process of chucking. God my knuckles still hurt and that was like 5 years ago.....
then I taught him Rule #2 Always follow Rule #1
Paragon: oops :p
BigJohnT: if you leave the key on the chuck of a lathe it can also turn out to do some narly things
fragalot: Could say what came out of my mouth... ;-)
Paragon: !@$~çàé" <-- that?
yes it can
not making sure the chuck is attached to the machine properly before you begin is also something i won't ever do again
Yeah and the rest.... While proceeding to hop and jump around the place ... lol
still shaking on my feet from that one
I remember when starting out I had a small 7x12 lathe ( I think they are called grizzly over int the states) Well so many things going on forgot to tighten the dam tool holder..... Took a cut which was going well then bang the tool dug in and flicked the tool holder up to the ceiling missing my head by a thou. I felt the draft from it as it went past me... Needless to say i learnt that...
...lesson too. Lucky it was a tiny machine or god knows....
Paragon: for me it was on a big lathe with a massive chuck with 4 claws
went over my shoulder at 2000rpm
OMG Scary stuff....
knocked somebody over while it was rolling over the workshop floor, then took a brick or 2 out of the wall
It gets worse!
Aye, fractured ankle
Dam! Was it due to not being clamped correctly?
for some reason, it came loose
the tool dug in, chuck came all the way loose, drilled it's way trough 5mm of plexiglass, and continued it's path of destruction while the machine slowly came to a stop
(the plexi really doesn't give as much protection as it makes you feel it does)
How big was this machine?
it's been a few years since i've seen it in school, but i think it was somewhere arround 3.5 meters long, 1.4 high, ..
not too sure about the height, i suck at judging heights
most chucks seem to use safety pins to keep them from taking off even if they come lose
anonimasu: in theory they do, yes
Thanks for your help again Fellas... Iv'e gotta split for now. Catch you all soon.
I've had a toolholder fly past me and land behind me
either those broke, or they weren't there,.. I pretty ran for it at that time, and didn't check up on the machine later (i was 14)
a BIG one
[21:39:38] <anonimasu> http://www.bchs.se/pics/profila.jpg
the toolholder that mounts to a lathe like that :p
Paragon: you don't have a black hole in the workshop floor... you probably don't have tables/shelves that go all the way to the floor. Amazing how much stuff gets tucked under there ;)
I 'lost' my set of Allan keys, one chuck key, a few rags and 2 parts from my run of 200 (I had to order up new material to make them... expensive oversight)
it learned me alot of things
skunkworks: you sure that link is right? it's taking forever and I don't see anything
I may have to talk to my hosting company.. It has been running really slow for the last few weeks
give me a second
I just tried again and it loaded right away
oh - ok
[21:43:36] <skunkworks> http://imagebin.ca/img/KaV5QOZI.png
[21:43:45] <skunkworks> http://imagebin.ca/img/KaV5QOZI.png
I meant to say - here is imagebin anyways
That is hooking the driver chips common directly to the lower mosfets.
plus I like where the comparator is now.
bleh i can't even remember the brand of the lathe that tossed the chuck at me anymore
almost as close as it can be.
yeah, C11 and C19 are in just the right place
haven't seen the bastard for 5 years :/
it looks pretty to me anyways.. :)
I haven't managed to decide if returning the driver grounds direct to the fet sources is good or bad
another thing I learned is that estop is useless for most part :p
well, its both actually
you want it to be there, but if anything happens it's already too late to push it..
on a cnc you've got a major crash before you can flinch
frrp, and you are milling a vise..
lots of things are like that
anonimasu: if i had pressed it, my head would be in the exact spot where the chuck flew
or maybe it would have thrown the chuck somewhere else..
anonimasu: by the time i knew what was happening, it went trough the plexi and triggered an internal safety switch anyways
the machine still took AGES to come to a halt.. :/
I read a thread about machines throwing workpieces when you hit estop because of the momentum
all the estop did was cut power, it still takes a while for it to spin down, lol
* anonimasu nods
i loves lathes, especially the reason why they aren't all ligned up behind eachother
makes you feel safe operating them, lol
jmkasunich: the onlything that I can think that would be a problem is the logic voltage would be high or low by the sense resistor voltage..
skunkworks: the blue trace from the top of C20 comes close to stuff that is on the computer side of the isolators
and could posibly go negative in reference to the driver chip ground
the negative thing is not good
but the question is, by how muhc
if you neglect inductance it is only 0.3V, that is OK
but you can't neglect inductance
anyways, most modern CNC machines have internal load sensors, if it goes above a certain value, the machine stops
atleast, they should :p
the three red traces running down from the pad14 area should be shifted to the right, keep them away from the power ckt
jmkasunich: the blue trace is +12 for the drivers (fromt he top of c20)
still - general principles are, if you have isolators, then isolate stuff
yes - I can shift all those around now that I have the basic layout
anyone know what that white goop is you find on toy PCB's ?
the other option is to sneak the power resistor common back up thru the center of the h-bridge to run the driver ic.. But there would be 1 via right between the cap terminals. (then it would tee of to each chip.
if that makes sense
sneak up on the red layer, then via down to blue?
I would have to spread things apart or make the power traces a little narrower
which ones are power? you mean the big floods, or are some of the narrow crossways blue carrying driver power?
sorry - I would have to spread the motor traces apart (the red vertical ones)
you can get away with that
the two "points" below pad4 are totally useless
yes - that is just how the isolation and pour came out.
eliminate them, run two red traces up from the lower resistor flood on either side of pad4, bring them together above pad 4 and continue up till you via thru to blue
ok - that is what I was thinking in the back of my mind.
Thank you very much.
fragalot: white goop? if it is between MOSFETS and a heat sink, then it is a Heat Sink Compound (radio shack# 276-1373 ;)
you might want to do that, and then arrange something such that you can disconnect the grounds from the fet sources easily
so you can try it either way
elmo99: just.. poured over certain sections
ah - interesting
either disconnect the grounds, and connect the center via, or the other way around
let the scope tell you which works better
I could just by not running thru the via..
a way for china to get rid of unwanted lead? :-\
they do a damn good job of it lately...
jmkasunich: how wide does the trace have to be do you think?
for the drive common
as wide as you have room for ;-)
the horizontal "channel" between the upper and lower blue pours could be widened
the "bump up" on the top of the lower blue pour in particular is doing nothing
bbl - errands to run, dinner to cook
good night all
jmkasunich: something like this. http://imagebin.ca/img/eERZslj.png