right, mesa card ordered
i guess I need to think up how to make the chuck now ...
make and chuck
imagine a big 4 jaw chuck
with at least 320mm clear through the spindle ...
I guess I need a REALLY BIG bearing or slewing ring
12.75 inches through hole Mmmmmm
what about lots of small bearings like with a steady?
yeahm thinking ...
maybe I just laser a 500mm ring of 6mm steel
and grip the edge with bearings in about 12 places
how big are the bearings on a cement truck?
* ds2 waits for the report of a cement truck flipping over due to "frozen" bearings to show up on BBC ;)
robin_sz: how big of a lathe do you have?
not big enough :)
maybe with the faceplate ,,,
hi John :)
specifically, how big of a disk (cut from plate) can you swing, to machine the edges
look at www.mcmaster.com, part number 3672K23
id have to measure the faceplate
if you can make the edge of a plate disk a V, run it in 3 (or more) of those rollers
well, I can always get it machined out
its just for plasma, so sub-micron accuracy is not essential
then fabricate some sort of reinforment and adjustabe jaws on the front face
right - but it needs to be round, so you can adjust the rollers snug
the laser will get it +- 0.2mm anyway
don't forget driving the thing... timing belt? roller chain? worm gear would be first class, but a large one isn't cheap
got some 3m ballscrews
that won't rotate the chuck ;-)
and the chuck is nto driven
well, this is the intermediate chuck
support just before the cuttign head
the end chuck is driven
and doest need to be through hole
can use one of my huge geared servos for that
ah, so a moderate size shaft on the end
I have soem MASSIVE servos
get a cheap rotary table (maybe 8 inch or so diameter) and put a plate on it
ahh, not a bad plan
i got soem big servos with 90 degree reduction boxes
thought about using a VFD as a drive
[01:11:09] <jmkasunich> http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/search-products/product-detail.aspx?id=21-108-010&searchtable=2&sortExpression=&SortASC=&pageSize=50¤tPageIndex=0
shipping would be a bear tho
theres plenty of that sort of stuff over here
industry is going titsup.com
right, I wasn't suggestiong HGR as a source, just an example
here's an interesting one: http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/search-products/product-detail.aspx?id=05-534-084&searchtable=2&sortExpression=wbprice&SortASC=Yes&pageSize=50¤tPageIndex=0
dollar's are cheap
less then 100 sterlings
that works out at ...
mesa card ordered
robin_sz: my latest project: http://jmkasunich.com/cgi-bin/blosxom/index.html
I'm brutally assaulting it with an angle grinder this evening
hand scraped huh?
and not so well, originally
I've found that one side of the base casting ways is tilted with respect to the other side
usually you expect the worn spots to be low, but in this case they are high - it wore there because it was high
so, it will end up better than new :)
glad I don't have a specific grinding job that needs done tomorrow
we have those in our welding shop too
its the traditional welding insult ...
look at a weld, and make some comment relating to pigeon crap ;)
* robin_sz giggles
and on that cheery note ...
I should go to bed
and wait for the mesa cards to show up
talk again soon
seems a little quiet this evening
sorry I have not looked at the files you sent yet.
do you have a lathe in your garage yet?
so far I have a large object that's good for holding stuff down - but yes it is shaped like a lathe
good - have a easy trip?
it was a lot of work but we did it safely and successfully
safe is the best - successful is second
it was a huge relief to finally have the lathe at ground level on the driveway.
soon I will have a control I'd be willing to sell you - interested?
i'll bet - how did you get it off the trailer?
rented a forklift.
aww - thats cheating.. '_
we devised all sorts of schemes but the forklift seemed safer.
very good - and no I don't need a control to hold paper down
oh it could hold down a lot more than just paper!
I think I will be able to reuse the tape reader, thumbwheels, and numitron displays
but all those heavy transformers will have to go.
I have a non-working tape punch to go along with the tape reader
or maybe I have it turned around.
make a clock out of the numitrons
I actually have a working punch
jmkasunich: they're no good for the long-term - they are incandescent
you can have two if you want this one
nixies are much better
did you get your scale readout working?
I've got several of em.
stustev: it works, but the displays (also numitrons) are mostly shot
I have not found a way to mount it yet
I thought the displays are nixies
the mill is on hold (since it is working!)
nope, not this one
skunkworks: that forum looks interesting
if I wanted to keep the vintage theme I would replace them with 74141s and nixies. they are 7446 so the bcd is already there.
but right now I think I will not waste the time to fix the box, since I want the data in emc eventually.
The Ustore really provided a drip feed for the 550.
But if it were mine, I'd switch it over to EMC2 in a hot minute.
rayh: the ustore seems to be busted...
it shows a red square, and the knobs don't do anything
We can always hope.
ebay: 'working when removed'
'cannot test it because I don't have a power cord'
in this case, "I was making parts on it just 3 months ago"
I suppose it's possible, but very hard to believe.
I didn't keep my ustore manual. MattS might have one still.
thanks but it's ok. too many things are wrong to use it like this.
I did sell a few boards from his control.
thanks for sending the amp docs though. that will be great.
I agree. And when we have what we have why retreat 35 years.
yes the first G76 will be a very sweet victory.
huh it also has a BTR. I wonder if someone could use it.
something Tape Reader?
"behind the reader" - a thing that lets you pretend your PC is the tape reader
maybe he added that when the uStore croaked
I'll bet that's what happened.
he just forgot to tell me :-)
stustev: how is the cinci coming? is the spindle back together yet?
the cinci? I thought it was running? (the one in the video)
i have My nena 24's for my 'lil Hardinge HLS-59 1-1/16 max collet but has a taperered spindle to take a 6" chuck and near 8 inch dia. capacitiy
i wanna make heat treat tensile specimens... what do you think??
think? I can't do that
but maybe i COULD i have a supe pricicion spindle... just waiting
I meant "I can't think"
you know what a tensile piece looks like>>
vaguely hour-glass-ish, with threads on the ends
is turned finish good enough, or are they ground?
you should be able to turn em'... but we cant inhouse
80 bucks of external polishing.. due to corporate rules
anybody interested in scraping - this book is the bible, and sells new for $90: http://cgi.ebay.com/Machine-Tool-Reconditioning-by-edward-Connelly-lathe_W0QQitemZ120287884882QQihZ002QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
jmkasunich: that scraping seems a little bogus. I don't see why there would be a regular pattern, like you'd have to hold oil. I wonder if it's been "touched up" for ebay.
it doesn't seem that regular to me
look at the lower left pic
that end does seem a little more regular
in any case, when you buy something like that, you need to verify that it is accurate, and if not, finish scraping it
you are really buying the casting, aging, and grunt work that got it 99% of the way there
[03:04:24] <cradek> http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/b/b8/Scrapestandard.jpg
the 2nd from the top pic on the left looks more random, but as you say, can't be sure
not all scraping looks the same
that is too big for my purposes anyway
yeah, buyer beware
everyone does it different and it leaves a different pattern, we have a bunch of straightedges and no two have the same pattern
its all about 50/50 bearing surface
I'm watching this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140252892693&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=004
i use my STEEL surface ples..
The cinci has had a problem. The spindle now has all the parts found or built. jmkasunich: I broke it bad. I had the code commented out that kept the spindle from starting when I had the tool changer cylinder compressing the belleville washers. I started the spindle. No problem for a little while. Big problem later. Parts welded together. Parts twisted off. No parts available at any price. We had to build the whole retention system. Finished
education is expensive
I need to build a checklist for myself
DOH... i hate when that happens
there is a saying something like "education is learning from your mistakes - higher education is learning from someone elses's mistakes"
I have heard it this way - A smart man learns from his mistakes - A genius learns from someone elses' mistakes
and some people never learn
I hope I can avoid the 'never learn' catagory
I think you've managed that - I've seen your shop and how you work
why are surface plates steel and not white iron?
fenn: actually, I think they are often cast iron, not steel
steel is used for lapping plates
but scraped plates are usually cast iron
3 kind of ppl in the world... those that make it happen.. them that watch it happen and those that stand aroung wondering what just happened
yes mine is grey cast iron to be precice
I made - I watched - I wondered
i was thinking white iron would be more wear resistant, but maybe you can't anneal it properly
steel isn't very stable, is a poor bearing surface, and blues badly.
so, do you normally put the blue on the plate or the part?
ideally you don't want to anneal a casting at all, it should be cooled slowly enough to not have stress in it to begin with
part... for me
most often the plate, but it depends on what you are doing
because you can never get all the stress out of cast iron
fenn, usually the master, sometimes both
red lead and prussian blue.
very high contrast for when you're mating two non-master surfaces.
connelly goes into great detail on that (and a billion other things)
the book is both incredibly informative and incredibly sleep-inducing
stresses can be handled but take TIME... my s/plate and angle plate spent MONTHS in the oven... up and down with whatever cooked inn it
red lead is banned in many places.... LIKE HERE so its prussian blue for us
seems like any pigment would work
has to stick
its not the pigment that sticks though, it's the binder it's in (linseed oil i think)
fenn: indeed, but they use prussian blue and red lead because they're very very high contrast
and yes, linseed or whatever else someone feels like using
fenn: has to stick, has to be able to spread into a very thin an uniform layer, has to not dry out, etc
you can only read and work 1 side.... otherwise you fight yourself
in fact, "prussian blue" as used by artists isn't that good, because it does dry out - Dykem HiSpot Blue has non-drying oil in it, much better
that's what i've got, a little tube of it.
$4 or so, lasts about forever
i've only used prussian blue artist's oil paint
it will also WRITe off the paint in a house if the 3 yr old get his hands on it....IT was EVERYWHERE
my tool box was in the livingroom for a weekend in-between jobs....the boy wrote the place OFF in "BLUE stuff daddy"
jm how is your scraping going
do you have like a project
yeah, its a project
I'm waiting for the 9x12 surface plate to arrive
setting up the IRC list - will have questions soon - thanks
he made a difference.
for those of you who document stuff as you do it, how do you decide what to take pictures of?
the proper go-ahead has been given for me to take pictures of my work stuff so i can start a webpage
the rule of thumb is that 1 out of 10 pics will be good, so take 10 times as much as you think is right, then pick the good ones
well i kind of meant stuff like, my boss will probably not be so okay if i stand there taking 10 pictures every two seconds
i dunno what "key points" make good images
I'm setting up EMC and homing my axes for the first time. With the first axis, Z, it moves to the switch, backs off a little, and then gives me the error "home switch active before start of latch move". What does that error mean?
it means just what it says. it is about to move back onto the switch to find the final position, but the switch is already triggered
maybe you have a noisy switch, or you are sharing a switch between more than one axis? tell us about your setup.
you're maybe not backing off enough?
the backoff just stops when the switch clears I think
then never mind. ;)
I have both the home and limit switches wired together, but def only one is triggered
I don't think it backs off far enough to untrigger the switch -- let me check again
maybe it gets noise when backing off, so it thinks it's off when it really isn't
you can use halscope to figure out what is going on.
do you want/need step by step instructions to use halscope to look at the input from the switch?
jepler: made any new circuit boards?
skunkworks_: I've made two. the second one is bigger (2.5x4 inches) but very simple -- just some connectors and some resistors. the depth was very consistent (which was the problem before), but I cut deeper than I intended -- the traces are quite narrow. I haven't quite perfected my touch-off procedure
skunkworks_: that's the board on the right in this photo: http://emergent.unpy.net/files/sandbox/img_7489-medium.jpg
heh - mine was the other way - It took a few adjustments before it cut.
Neat - that is for your logic analizer?
yep. the FPGA runs with 3.3V I/O, and one way to make it safe for 5V inputs is to have a series resistor, which is what that board has
instead of the female sockets I'm going to put male headers on the board (actually, I originally planned to have both -- you can see a row of thru-holes for the male header on that board) and then use these home-made cables as probes: http://emergent.unpy.net/files/sandbox/probes-medium.jpg
did you end up buying a crimper?
yeah, steves_logging gave me a suggestion for a $20 crimper that will kinda-sorta crimp these connectors
Hmm... just tried the Y axis, and a bit before reaching the limit switch, I get the error "end of move in homes state 5". Guess its time for halscope, like you mentioned, cradek
skunkworks_: hopefully my simple board and cables will work for microcontroller-speed (<20MHz) stuff .. jmkasunich has made me pessimistic that stuff will work at FPGA speeds (50MHz+) without stuff like grounds on every other pin, short cabling, and so on..
owad: that one probably means your soft limits are shorter than your travel.
owad: what happens if you start homing again from this location?
jepler: That sounds like a challenge ;)
gefink: just tried that. It goes the rest of the way. Hits the switch. Backs off until the switch is released. Hits the switch again, and stops. But emcs gives the error "joint 1 on limit switch error"
owad: if you use a combinated home/limitswitch you must use an homeoffset to release the switch after homing
matter of fact, if i steop and relaunch emc, I get the joint error when I hit the 'power' button
hm, that makes sense
owad: you can drive the wiitch free if you tag "override limits"
tag "override limit", press "on button" and use the cursorkeys...
gefink, I do have them combined. Thank you. I don't see a homeoffset value in the StepConf Wizard. Is that sometthing I'd add by editing the stepconf file manually?
i think its named homelocaten or home offset
somebody can help me for mpg pendant?
Its possible to send 200 UDP-packages per second with a modified halsampler safe, 400 at (over) limit
only a little question
it work fine at parallel port
during program execution
i can use wheel for adjust feedrate?
i think its possible. moment some time ago i read ablout..
i read hal documentation first :)
[19:55:04] <gefink> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Halui
halui.feed-override.increase, halui.program.run should help
billy_kid2: use custom_postgui.hal to do this.
i had problems loading halui in custom.hal
i never used halui
i used it for additional buttons
the speed is ok?
system work well?
yes. no problem
or halui make slowly
latency is the biggest problem
i have 4 axes
+ pwm spindle
halui.feed-override.counts s43 //counts from an encoder for example to change FO
2 parallel port
i have 3 axis +spindle
but no mpg
mpg mounted today :)
is very good
gefink: I set my home location to 0.25, which seems to work, except it goes 0.25" in the wrong direction, and slams into my switch. The figure should be positive, right? I think I have my axes directions all confused.
owad_: this is the first thing. whee is your Zero-point?
if it is left down, most time the referencespeed is negative
if the switches are there
judging by the directions the axes move when I tell them to find home? Z is up (close to the motor) and X & Y are away from the motor
I'm not sure which direction I should be looking at everything from…?
owad_: the sign of referenzingspped says the direction
directions should be chosen so that the tooltip motion (with respect to the workpiece) is in a "right hand" coordinate system
but adyust at first the direction ofthe axis
for a knee mill, or a mill with a saddle/table, this means that +Y moves the saddle toward you, -Y moves the saddle away from you
-X moves the table right, +X moves the table left
-Z moves the spindle/head up, -Z moves the spindle/head down
once you have that set up, such that jogging will move in the correct direction, you can choose signs for homing
hope that was helpful :)
is signs for homing in stepconf or the emc2 app? I don't see it in either?
put a minus sign on the number :)
owad_: its in the stepcofwizard
Hi, I'm having problems with EMC. After my machine rebooted, the configuration I was using doesn't work anymore and emc crashes. However, other configurations work. Any ideas?
what do you mean by crashes
cradek: I get the following message: insmod: error inserting '/usr/realtime-2.6.24-16-rtai/modules/rtai_hal.ko': -1 File exists
sometimes there are better error messages in dmesg. also check to be sure you have the right kernel (-rtai) booted
cradek: I have the rtai kernel, but I don't know what dmesg is...
you run dmesg at the shell to see the kernel log messages
Hugomatic: open a terminal, type "dmesg", press enter, then look at the last dozen or so lines for clues
(or put the lines on pastebin and let us read 'em)
It's full of funky stuff, but I don't know what it means... http://pastebin.com/m14b630a9
[ 694.079289] BUG: unable to handle kernel paging request at virtual address f8d8b798
this probably represents bad hardware
cradek: you mean my computer is bad?
do you know why it rebooted right before this problem?
a fuse blew
maybe try rebooting and run memtest for a while. it is on the initial menu.
cradek: .... and I'll get a coffee as well. thanks for the hints
I also notice that you have 1GB RAM. There is a problem with the current rtai version on hardy with 1gb ram, but it doesn't happen to all people or all the time.
welcome, let us know what you find
you might try booting with mem=900M added to the kernel commandline
ok guys, thanks...
when I home an axis, it moves in the opposite direction of when I click the '-' button to move. Is that how it's supposed to be?
you can put the home switch on either end.
[20:45:18] <cradek> http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html//config_ini_homing.html
have you seen this?
[20:45:56] <skunkworks_> http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62036
I think I saw that diagram in the manual, while skimming throug the manual, but I didn't recoginze it for what it is
skunkworks_: hmm, the name just changed didn't it
or maybe this is not the emc2-based machine control
it's not very clear what it is.
no - I think ray said it is a stripped down cad/cam with emc post
<rayh> They are working toward the release of a GUI front end very much like the geometric CAD/CAM part of Smithy's EZTrol
<rayh> No linkage to EMC2 but there will be an EMC2 post.
curved traces on milled or printed circuit boards: cool? or annoying affectation?
As long as it gets the job done..
I seem to have now added "obsessively add curves to every wire bend" to my routine with eagle (after "obsessively move every trace around after using the autorouter")
unless you're going for that "early '70s hand-laid-out" look
I don't think rounded corners are any great help
beveled corners can be, but not rounded
oh I'm not saying they're functional
just pretty... LOL
I might use curved for microwave but thats about it
CRAP it looks like MY DB25 connector on my board has different pin out than std NIST stepper lathe i wanna configire..
good evening Jepler and SWPadnos
woohah! just got probing to work. a tip: test probing onto a 6" scale laying over an edge ( or use a parallel). If your probe doesnt work, it just tips tit over rather than bending binding crushing,,,,
good show tomp1... cudos
last nite i saw the shuttle k45 barebones at tiger direct for 99$. micro atx, with serial and parallel. the rtai mailing list has some info but i cant get at it.
dmess: thx :)
my search for a content management system that does what I want is not going well
how much damage can i do to a .HAL file by bulk changing pin asighnments??? will it pouch ALOTA stuff or a little??
Won't trash anything if you do it right.
Typos will stop the startup but the error reporting is pretty good.
i nee to check if my cable is a straight thru db25 or an rs232 null modem
as a null the drive would work...
for 2 axis anyway...
im working from the NIST-lathe .hal file
bcz i only have steppers... with NO feedback..
still need to retrieve a vfd and a 1/2 HP 208 single phase motor for the spindle