anyone know of a good tutorial for Cadence pcb/schematic capture?
odd mic... 0.650 - 1.000 has an error of +0.0002 but is dead on from 0 - 0.650
depends on how much you paid for your mic
I would expect a 1" mic to be dead on from 0-1"
these are cheap imports
i'd say .0002 ain't bad
my mechanical import mic seems to be dead on from 0-1"
it's damn near impossible to get a good reading on a part to .0002 anyway
gage blocks are relatively easy to measure
lapped flat sufraces, parallel
round stuff like outside dia on a lathe is prett straightforward to measure
but then you have to worry about the parallelism and flatness of the mic anvils
whereas that's less of an issue on a gage block/square surface.
the measurement can change .0002" pretty easy on a lot of mics because of worn spots on the anvil faces
and you'll never see it checking on blocks because the blocks only check the highest spots
didn't know a gage block is suppose to be parallel as part of the spec; just expected it to have an envelope of the stated size
yeah, gage blocks need to be pretty darn parallel
except the parallelism error isn't called out in the cert, it's just wrapped up with all the errors to give you the overall +/-
Interesting... wish that metrology class I took discussed stuff like this instead of GD&T symbols
ah I see
so in some ways, gage pins are a little better?
well for a mic in production, yes
but remember that gage blocks, even B grade, are like 50 millionths
but the contact area is limited to the tangent to a cylinder, less change for error
pins are usually +.0002"
or minus, whatever your set is
mine is +/- 0.0002 as it is built from different sets at the used tool dealer
i'd use blocks
that's a class ZZ pin
class X pins are 40 millionths and can be used for general shop work
I am using blocks; the issue is the "mixed pins" is US made quality, alas mixed, but the blocks are cheap class B import
i mean really, .0002" isn't going to make or break most stuff
the goal of this exercise is to see if I was ripped off
class B is class B; 50 millionths
pins are +.0002
so .0002 versus .00005
for calibration purposes, i'm gonna take the blocks, even cheapies, over pins
again, unless they're class X pins
does class X pin == deltronics pins?
if i am recalling correctly, anyway
i just remember the JC had a pile (literally) of donated deltronic pins in the backroom
if they look like they're in good shape, that's a pretty good reference
remember to close your eyes when you take calibration measurements.
check the pin at different spots around the length and diameter, and swap the position 90 degrees on the mic
so you get some confidence that you're reading right and not some error on the pin or anvil face
Hmm. one day... I just like them for doing quick checks of boring jobs
that works man
i wouldn't sweat .0002 for 98% of the stuff i do
but i paid 600 for my 0-4 set, so i might be a little peeved if mine didn't read like they do
but for an inexpensive mic, i'd be way happy.
how often do you use the 4" mic?
if i'm working on our 15" CNC
a whole lot
otherwise, not too much
hmmm guess the real world makes bigger parts then me
i guess, big mics tend to be lathe equipment
wait, is that a 15" american or 15" european?
the chuck is 15" in diameter
i think it's a 40 hp mori seiki
could be 30, dunno
never checked the manual
I can find uses for the 50" part, just can't think of much to do with a 15" swing
we make spindles and other midsize bearings on it
it's a really, really nice machine
for stuff that big, I'd think you can do it on the mill instead
the mill isn't as accurate
or as powerful
don't doubt it is a nice machine
plus it spins pretty darn quick, i think the top spindle speed is 3000 rpm
3000rpm @ 15"? :)
it's pretty frightening
I worry about a 6" chuck at 2000RPM!
the chuck looks like a rainbow
when it spins that fast
it's pretty neat
my preferred workholding is a collet
but that machine will repeat under .0001"
all day long no matter how hard you are using it
the only drift it has is tool wear
doesn't the warm up cause some drift?
and in aluminum, it's about .001" in 6 hours
nope, the machine has an oil chiller
all the other machines shift as they warm up
the mori stays dead on
yep, that too
we have one machine that drifts really bad, it will go .0002 per part for a couple hours
heh... that's about 10x more accurate then the import stuff I use
so what's a babysitting nightmare on that machine is an unattended dream on the 15" lathe
cnc or manual?
manual for now; trying to rebuild a CNC trainer lathe
i don't really see the need for that kind of accuracy
for most jobs
looks like I will have to make some shims to adjust the preload on one of the axis
but it's really nice to have when you need it
the ball preload or does it have a preloaded shaft
machines is one thing; measurement equipment needs more accuracy
the Xaxis had like 0.010 of lash on it so I disasseble and cleaned it
now when I reassembled it, I can't turn the 1/4" ball scree by hand
need to put on the 1" pully before i can turn it
so I think there is too much preload on the roller thrust bearings on the axis
that's really not good
problem there is a lock nut done with a star washer
sothere are only discrete positions it can lock things
heh, i hope it works out
what kind of lathe is it
looking it up
the guy who sold me it builds machines and he suggested making up a shim to adjust the preload
oh that's cute!
that's like the perfect desktop lathe
goingto gut the 80's electronics and refit it for EMC
heh... it is a bitbigger then desktop
the chinese 7x's are tabletop, this one is about 4 times bigger
i found the mori we have, an SL-35
[06:47:16] <toastydeath> http://cgi.ebay.com/Mori-Seiki-SL-35-MC-CNC-Lathe-Machine-Turning-Center_W0QQitemZ140223645798QQihZ004QQcategoryZ97230QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
it is about 300lbs
i am going to have to keep the orac in mind
i have not been too impressed with the look of the build quality of the average import machine
Hmmm that look and sounds just like the Haas lathes
heh, in appearance only =)
even the model number!
mori is 5x more expensive
slant bed and tool turret?
the main difference is the same as manual machines
just like the haas
build quality, accuracy, etc
fanuc based control?
i was wrong, apparently it's a 2500 rpm spindle
but it is 40 hp
i think it's dual voltage though.
but nobody runsa 40 hp motor at anything less that 440
does it offer collet options?
otherwise you'd need giant cables
sure it does
giant is an understatement
take the chuck off and put a hydaulic collet nose on it
all cnc machines have drawbars so collets are not an issue
well, the big ones do
practically nobody uses the SL-size machines for small work though
the haas at the JC for the longest time only had a 3J which made it very annoying for multioperations
when you step down to a smaller machine the spindle speed bumps to 6000-8000
making it a little more useful for collet work
it isn't the size... a 16C gives a similar range to the chuck that came with the Haas
i've never even seen a 3j
3J as in 3 Jaw
don't like soft jaws?
nope plus it was the school's lathe...can't do muchwith soft jaws when there is only one set
that's a bummer
hell, it's a school! make a few sets.
they got a 5C setup the last quarter I was there
no cnc should be without a robust selection of soft jaws =)
are they big on cnc stuff there?
all haas equipment (donations I think)
our school has haas, but they're more for show than for use
it definitely gets used
and there's only 3 people in the department who use the machine
general students are not allowed on them
they got 2 handg-code classes using it + 2 master cam classses
yeah, that's cool
it's the department head, myself, and this lab assistant guy who crashes it all the time
sure there will be crashes by students but that's how they learn
the lathe almost never gets used
the students do a little engraving on it, once a semester
but there's hardly any crashes
instructor seems pretty tolerant of crashes. he only get irritated if you crash the same way 4-5 times in a row
98% of the crashes are the TA doing something retarded
engraving is easy to crash
and the tooling is fragile for engraving
by "engraving" i mean .050" deep with a 1/8th ball endmill
not actual engraving
1/8 bits are fragile!
and yet nobody crashes them!
we use the 60deg V bits for engraving
they backplot it on the pc
then backplot it on the hass
dry run above the part
wow... what's the setup method for Z?
what do you mean?
touch the tool off to the part and go?
how do they teach setting the Z zero
the students don't do it
the machine zeroes are set by someone else
setting the zero can be dangerous when people are jogging at the 0.1 setting :)
hah yes it can
they actually blocked .1" out on the parameter setup
(and yes, that has happened)
even the 0.01 can put a pretty big divot
yeah, but it's not as bad ad .1
and again the crashes come from the TA
this guy, he's trying to make some T nuts
you know, for strap clamp kits?
we also have a problem of the day instructor using a 1-2-3 block for setup and setting Z=-1 in the G54
the dude crashes the machine SIX times
breaks FOUR tools
there were only two tools being used!
he broke a tool THREE times
on a part 1" long by .75" wide.
i just leave the room now
i can't handle it.
don't see how someone can do that in a non production enviroment (where people are in a hurry)
mentally, i can't handle it.
he isn't in a hurry!
he's just... not very good at machining.
he's slow as molasses
he has almost no experience on the manual machines
at least at the JC, there is the excuse of the night instructor teaching people to set zero with a dowel pin and adjusting the tool length offset and telling people to keep G54 Z=0
isn't it general practice to run the code at Rapid = 25% along with the first move being to Z=1.0 for a sanity check?
i run it at rapid = feed, or rapid = 5%
in that order
"does that look like an inch? yep. Does that look like .1? Yep."
if the 1.0 doesn't look like a 1.0, FEED HOLD ASAP
single block it looking at the dist to go
i always hit feed hold anyway
and compare where i think it is compared to 1.0 versus what the dist to go tells me is 1.0
i single block but the instructor just uses a slow rapid
there's no reason not to single block
just keep hitting start as fast as you can until you get to the part where you want to check
takes time plus he's been doing it for like 20 years
oh, then sure
it also depends on how critical the crap is, i guess
our parts tend to be costly and time intensive, so we take more precautions
with the price of brass or Ti...
lol, even aluminum and steel
in large blocks
once you start to put serious man hours into a part, the cost of the metal suddenly goes up =)
we had a set of 56" air bearing rails we were making, two of them
three weeks into machining just those two parts, everyone was walking on eggshells around them
the irritating thingis tapping is almost always at the END :(
bahah yes it is
get a tap burner =)
thread forming is my preference
thread forming as in form taps?
or thread forming as in thread milling
not all our machines have rigid tapping
forming taps...donno how one wouldmill stuff like 1/4-20 or 10-32
and we quickly discovered they don't work so well in floating holders
great taps when you can use them though, from my very limited experience
i am going to bed sir
good morning all
just trying to get a hold of Vq^
not me ;)
will a G4 (dwell) take a number smaller than 1 ie 0.1 seconds,
BigJohnT: depens on the system what base they are using...
in fanuc you have g4 p100 for a 1 second pause...
OoBIGeye: it seems to take 0.9 in EMC without complaints
okay that might come in handy :)
yes, for peirce delay I need tenth of a second
hmmm, it seems like there is some blending going on in the corners, wonder where that setting is?
yep it looks like I have a G64 set by default
I was looking in the ini file LOL
It doesn't say what the P number does exactly for G64... just says optional tolerance...
either Axis is drawing the path wrong or G61 is broken, I only get and exact path with G64 P0.00001
I take that back, I only get an exact path when I put a G4 P0.0001 at the end of each move
G64 P0.00001 gives random paths at the corner when run multiple times
BigJohnT: to draw the backplot, axis only samples the path approximately 50 times per second. there's no guarantee that one of the samples will be exactly at the corner point, even in G61 mode. When it's not, it looks like the path deviated from the exact path.
it's one of those unavoidable things
ok, that makes sense
and it's a problem that grows worse when you've got something complex loaded and axis is bogged down when zooming or rotating...
or going 400IPM
got it, thanks
so what does the P number mean in G64?
G61 visits the programmed point exactly, even though that means temporarily coming to a complete stop. G64 without P means to keep the best speed possible, no matter how far away from the programmed point you end up. G64 P- means that it should slow down as required to get no more than P- away from the programmed endpoint.
In addition, when you activate G64 P- it turns on the "naive cam detector"; when there are a bunch of G1 moves that are less than P- away from being colinear, they are collapsed into a single linear move. this improves contouring performance.
P is user units, in my case P0.001 is 0.001" from the path?
if G20 is in effect when you program G64 P-, then the P-number is in inches.
wish I could add that line to the help file...
actually wish I could add all of what you just said to the help file
seems like most of what I said is in the docs .. http://linuxcnc.org/docs/html/gcode_main.html#sub:Path-Control-Mode http://linuxcnc.org/docs/html/gcode_main.html#sub:G61,-G61.1,-G64:
but it does not explain it as well as you did... I read line 3.15 and the link about 10 times but didn't have the deep understanding of what was going on till you explained it so well
in addition the "native cam detector" is some information that one would want to know when using G64 Pn
jepler: thanks again for the help
yeah I guess that's missing altogether
bbl, breakfast calls
glad I could help for once
[13:37:49] <tomp> http://smay.okstate.edu/process.wmv
interesting, 3D printing with copper and even ceramic, seen on CadCamDroEDM list
kohinor pens? syringes?
jepler: did you read my post on emc-devel about start/stop ?
micges: I don't disagree with what you wrote, but there is a lot of code required to make it work as easily as you describe. I don't personally need it for the way I use emc, so I'm unlikely to write the code.
jepler: dunno if you got the IM, so thx for the help on the vncrec, it works fine. will add soem howto the wiki. thx again, its cool :)
I think I shall only use drawer slides for the x axis of my mill
I am finding that printer rods will make a very nice y and z axis
is the only difference between G61 and G61.1 is the latter comes to a complete stop after every move and G61 only stops if it has to?
I think G61 and G61.1 do the same thing
if you want the latter behavior, use G64 P[small]
cradek just trying to understand the difference... seems to me that G61 would only stop if needed...
the docs may be wrong. I am pretty sure G61/G61.1 are currently the same and cause a stop at every segment.
tomp: you're welcome
cradek: I can see a difference in Vel: at the end of a move between G61/61.1 if the angle is shallow between the moves
but that might be an Axis thing too dunno
gotta get some work done bbl
I thought (but could be totally wrong) that G61 was exact stop, and G61.1 was exact path
for lines meeting at an angle, there is no difference
but for a line meeting an arc such that they are parallel where they meet, exact path doesn't need to stop, but exact stop does
same applies for parallel lines, or for one arc meeting another such that they are parallel where they meed'
that's how I imagine it works too
there has got to be a better way to measure holes than a telescoping gage
I'm trying to make a shrink fit
anyone know what unix command 'nsd' is?
google says maybe :name server daemon" ?
it would be nice if I could type
tri mics, bore mics, and bore gauges
you can get an import bore gauge for like 100
if you have a set of gage blocks, that's all you really need
and i guess a gage block accessory kit
how to use gage block on hole?
[19:08:53] <renesis> http://darkertechnologies.com/image/ACMotorControl_Milled.jpg
broken conical, w00t
[19:11:07] <renesis> http://www.2linc.com/engraving_tools_pyramid.htm
you guys ever use a tool like that?
im hoping its tougher than the single flute conical, same kinda finish
should get here monday or something
tomp: they make cylinder gages
right, but square peg round hole got me stumped
just get some china shit, prob good for .001 or so
tomp: you use the blocks to set the bore gauge
can't use a bore gage without either ring gages or gage blocks
that makes sense
[19:14:37] <toastydeath> http://www.redhillsupply.com/CEN6467.htm
that's an expensive one.
omg $580 on sale =(
msc does sell them for like $95
Hi folks. This one is off topic, but does anyone in here know anything about electron microscopes?
renesis, toastydeath: cheap chinese accurate to 0.001 isn't good enough - I can do that (with care) using telescoping gages
maybe you need some .0005 shit from the former soviet union
I'm trying for a couple tenths accuracy - target is 0.0010 to 0.0015 interference for this fit
on a 3/4" bore
sounds like fun challenging work
I just got them together now - the first attempt ended in a stick when the shaft started to heat up before it was all the way in
start one panicked search for something that I could use to push it back out
I must have looked like the keystone cops - I was heating them in the kitchen, then running out to the arbor press in the garage, then the oh-shit run to the basement to get something to use to press it back out, then back out to the garage
I _think_ I was pretty darned close on diameter the first time, and mostly got screwed up by technique when I went to assemble them
set hot part on press anvil, set cold part on hot part, start to press
I think the cold part heated up from the contact in the time it took me to get things aligned and start to push
Jessica484: anything particular you're looking for?
(regarding electron microscopes)
have you cooled the sleeve??
anything i am aware of that does .0001 with any accuracy is a couple hundred bucks
Hi Alex, just I think I'm gonna buy that estate sale that includes the SEM. I might end up selling the SEM to pay for the rest of the lot, and I'm trying to figure out what it's worth.
dmess: cooled the sleeve? I heated the sleeve, to make it fit over the shaft
oh ok.. did you cool the shaft???
yes, freezer, about 0F
heated sleeve in oven, 500F
try a propane bottle if you dont have liquid nitrogen
I calculated that would give me 0.0025 of expansion, so I was aiming for 0.0015 of interference when cold, and 0.001 of sliding room when hot
at 3/4 inch i cant see that much expansion over 500 degrees
[19:44:30] <jmkasunich> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coefficient_of_thermal_expansion
steel = approx 12 ppm per degree C
I have a sneaky feeling that jmkasunich would have done the math
12 ppm per degree per unit
right so time .75
500F = 277C
actually per linear inch of thickness so it times the wall thickness of the bushing
not the thickness
277C * .000012 * 0.75 = 0.0025
the actual diameter, not thickness.
i have spread sheet that does all that for me... now where is it
and it's the change in temp, so you have to subtract room temp from the 500
not like that changes it by much
thats why I cooled the shaft to 0F ;-)
the second time I did it it worked fine
I bet I was pretty close on diameter, and just got stuck because of poor timing and technique putting it together
so you got it stuck... did it take an arc-air tourch to get them apart again... Thats my worst opps its stuck
all I did between the 1st time and the 2nd was chuck it up and use fine emery on a stick to remove the oxide from the ID, then a few more seconds - I couldn't measure the increase in diameter, but surface finished is better
didn't need the torch - it got stuck less than half way on, I flipped it over and pressed it out right away
our target was .08"-.10" interference fit... 18" inches in diameter
lol - now I know why you needed the torch
we stuck about 9 inches int a 16 inch push
buthered bothe the trunnion and the mating bore on that laddle...
these parts have about 1/2" of overlapped length, but I was pushing over 2" of shaft to get to the shoulder
we boured it out and welded in a 6" thk sleeve thru the laddle and made a new trunnion
working with sleeves is a pain
I was making this: http://www.maritool.com/images/FINAL-C3-4-ER20-2-1.jpg
into this: http://www.tormach.com/picts/product_picts/TTS/ER20.jpg
ahh, I wondered
the mari tool one is $35 cheaper (each), and from looking at the pic on the tormach page, the mari is much nicer quality
fenn: thanks for adding that to the docs
jmkasunich: you can make male plug gages go and no/go to measure the hole
DanielFalck: yeah, but I'm lazy
I hate tooling that takes a long time to make and is only good for one job
you could turn them out of aluminum
is there a way to check if ccache is working?
ccache -s show some stats
i had a show machine a twin gildemiester that made brass collet extensions with ppls names on them
BTW, so far I have nothing but good to say about www.maritool.com - the chucks and collets are nicely made, price was great, shipment was fast
I think there is somewhere on our wiki to put that comment...
I recall a picture of Chips with his thumbs (?) up
darn, they have nothing that fits my machine.
you need a special variation on 30 taper?
yeah the flange is critical
I don't even see any nmtb30 stuff
true but the flange is totally wrong on those I think
[20:04:41] <fenn> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Suppliers
fenn: yep, editing the page now
JMK - I just wished Maritool made an ER20 in an R8 config. As is I intend to tool up my X3 using about 6 of his ER32 R8 units.
not sure why he doesn't do an R8 ER20
maybe he figures bigger taper = bigger tooling
although he has 50 tapers for many different collet sizes
demand likely - only mini mill users would have a use for them.
does Maritool make their own tooling in the USA?
based on the prices I can't imagine they are made in the US
not sure - but I do intend to ask if making a stubby ER20 is possible.
so no indication of where made on the tooling then?
but whoever makes them laser marks them with MariTool's name and part number
no indication of where
collets are laser marked too - don't have to worry about the marks rubbing off
I hate that ( ID makings faded/missing)
drives me nutz on all the bizzarre taps I have
mark the tube its in and ALWAYS return it to its tube... i have TONS of taps.. many unreadable ... but tagged or bagged
I'm not so sure the collets are laser marked, they might be printed - hard to tell even under magnification
JymmmEMC, Jymm: you around?
jymm Jymm - what's the difference? :)
jymm is idle for 2 days
JymmmEMC only for 1 hour + change
JymmmEMC had connection troubles earlier, according to the logs
didn't see anything 1 hour ago
oh. I guess that was closer to 12 hours ago
one, twelve, what's the difference?
1, 2, 12.. ssdd
yo alex_joni what's the minimum size of a weld?
what kind of weld?
let's say a mig weld
the smallest built-up feature you can reliably make
or a seam?
hmm.. and you're interested in the diameter?
tiny - look at wirebonding to ICs
SWPLinux: that's not mig ;)
fenn: probably 3-4mm
huh. why did you give that answer?
if you want tiny welds, you need to look at microplasma
i have seen laser stuff that's done under a microscope
that's not mig
but specifically i dont understand the limiting factors in mig welds
oh, sure.. laser and microplasma and microtig works quite small
fenn: wire diameter is one
or tig either..
common diameters start at 0.8mm over here
and you need about 40-50 Amps to melt it
and there's a min time for the arc to ignite, get stable, etc
for TIG I'd say it's somehow smaller.. maybe 1-2mm
1-2mm is "microtig"?
so basically the wire diameter has to be much smaller than the weld pool
1-2 mm is still regular TIG at something like 10-20Amps
you can get lower with microtig which uses something like 0.4 .. 2Amps
but you need tiny wire to melt
do you think it would be feasible to zig-zag the weld pool to build up a 'tape' such as for a trace in a circuit board?
you'd burn the board substrate
not if it's ceramic
you'd crack the substrate from thermal shock ;-)
ceramics conduct a lot of heat (dunno how significant that is)
uh.. well, i'll claim ignorance on that one
anyway, regardless of the substrate issues, I suspect that surface tension would make it impossible to leave behind a trace
the "pool" would become a ball that follows you around
i've done something like this with plain lead solder, drawing the blob out at just the right temperature
fenn: colloidal deposition with copper http://smay.okstate.edu/
and ceramic too ( reprap taken a leap fwd )
what substrate? it would have to be something that the solder can wet, otherwise its not gonna drag out
tomp: yeah that's what i've been thinking about, thanks for the link
jmkasunich: just in the air, making a bridge
micro tig is .o10"-.02" where ive brought work
fenn: what jmkasunich said
I think it's easier to look at conductive paint
something silver based
use that first, then add solder
fenn: also note that for welding you need conductive materials ;)
ceramics doesn't quite count as one
plastic hot air welding
conductive as in metals
see, the tape would act like a heatsink and structural support
but the metal does
wouldn't work well with superconductors ;)
if you get the parameters right you should be able to build any shape out of weld wire
its not even real ceramic anyway..LOL
SWPLinux: I doubt you'd be welding inside a nitrogen tank
room temperature superconductors, silly! :)
give me some :P
(though the cold temp is another problem for welding ;) )
fenn: I doubt you can do that
still laffin :)
alex_joni: i cant do that? i've done it
have you tried hho torches??
I mean build any shapes..
if I'll ask you to build me a honeycomb our of weld wire, I doubt you'll be able to
oh, and bending the wire into shape doesn't count :D
hmm.. what if i bend the wire into a honeycomb and then 'extrude' it upwards
give me a hot steel glue gun and im a mad man
hmmm. I wonder if something like this would be useful for EMC2: http://plcemu.sourceforge.net/
(since I'm one of those people who can't figure out how to use the CL editor)
USE_COMEDI 1 ? i'd like that
I'm looking at the text diagrams
you'd prefer an ascii-art interface?
the othe macine can make the compression tool... then the press from hell to whack it.... an awesome furnace to cook this loaf... the a coining die... to really WHACK it to shape and size... SHIP it
fenn: in some ways, yes
SWPLinux: type 'pstree' in a console
SWPLinux: ever looked at SFC in classicladder?
ladder isn't the only thing classic ladder can do
fenn: like `ps axf', only prettier
alex_joni: true. I haven't looked at the other "languages"
I don't even know ladder well :)
Sad thing is my degree was in Welding metallurgy - ( metallurgical properties in heat affected zones ) -and I never really got to use it - worked in different fields ever since college.
SkullWorks_PGAB: kinds reverse for me
my near-degree was in electrical engineering. I've only really started using it in the last couple of years
got a major in computer science, ended up doing welding stuff ;)
now I don't remember much - old age and failure to use that knowledge.
sounds like french to me
done, finally: http://jmkasunich.com/pics/mill-tooling-2012.jpg
looks real nice
as cash allows I'm gonna add a couple more collet chucks
an albrecht & and a jacobs?
jmkasunich: did you get the steppers from ShopTask or somewhere else?
an albrecht clone and a jacobs clone
somewhere else - kelinginc
I just went to my old company and helped them set up EMC2 (they couldn't get Mach to work well)
those were done on a shoptask? recoop your cost by offering them that pic as as an advert!
the PacSci steppers on it were sturdier than I thought
tomp: the only thing I did on the shoptask is add the Z collars to the collet chucks
I couldn't get the things to miss a step at 60 IPM, and I was pulling pretty hard
HF has 1/2" Jacobs chucks using a 12mm thread for like $9/ea. (key included with each.)
unipolar too, which seemed weird
SWPLinux: that sounds good
yeah, I was surprised
the ME had said before that he could tap it and see the stepper lose position when it was going at high speed
you didn't touch the drives or motors at all?
dampers on the stepper motors?
oh hmm. that could be due to EMC actually - better timing = less apparent acceleration and smoother torque
nope to both
I was just thinking through why that could be the case, since no hardware was changed
(except going from the ISA I/O card to a parallel port)
I blame Art ;)
( Art did his best - but GIGO )
or whoever it was that wrote Artisan CNC, which Ah-Ha used to sell
i still have an isa ahha control
I thought about asking them for the card. do you have any specs?
it seems it should be easy to make a simple IO driver for it
where would you stick it ?
would need to look, i think i got floppies, card & manual, some programming stuff... will get it to you
ok. no rush ;)
I took my OLD (circa 1991) Bobcad V12 for DOS and set it up on my EMC box using DOSBOX - works like a champ!
maybe for Fest, if you go
i got to leaarn dosbox & wine
SWPLinux: hope to
another plane lands at SJC
bbl Paad Kee Mao waiting mmmmmmmm
yummy. maybe that's what I should have for dinner
I'm not sure who would enjoy what I had for dinner :P
are you back home or still off in Deutschland?
oh, back home since thursday
I did enjoy it ;)
hmmm. I should go soak in the hot tub
what did you have?
not a lot of flavor I imagine (other than the spices)
yeah.. breadcrums and the regular stuff like on a schnitzel
I've had sweetbread (calf thymus I believe)
hmm.. don't think I tasted that
apparently it's kind of strange to cook - it puffs up a lot, so you actually have to weight it down
responses can be rather random at times, but hello too
all working on a sat afternoon ?
np been here before
not everywhere a sat afternoon :)
but I'm thinking about jumping in the hot tub or pool
hahahha you got me
SWPLinux: you need the new waterproof OLPC
then he wouldn't get out
hmmm. I think I can detach from the internet again today - I did spend 6 hours or so on airplanes after all
I think I will do that actually. see you guys later
in mini...under offset...y doesn't my rad offset work ?