When I mention it to people I always get "bah... that's easy".
if you have a certain size in mind, and cad, it really doesn't take that long to fill a font.
by hand I mean
I don't have a real cad... but I had I think qcad which seemed reasonable.
those folks haven't tried, or aren't programmers, or haven't thought about it then
qcad is getting better.
Part of eagle does essentially the same thing as filling fonts (for pcb milling)...
Has Twingy mentioned Gcam progress lately?
eagle's algorithm probably only works with lines
Yeah.. I dunno
truetype are conic spline, postscript are cubic spline
in general the problem of filling fonts is 2.5D pocketing
there is a lot of scholarly work about the problem (I have some papers)
they're good/bad in that way all those scholarly papers are
As a scholar I contribute somewhat to the insanity.
"we got it to work, lookie at this powerpoint slide, now pass us"
when writing them I got bored at about page 3, and when reading them I can see that's universal
So... for pocketing in general.. anything around?
nothing decent and Free that I've seen.
just waiting for one of us to write it.
(I'm not sure what gcam does...)
Maybe when I'm done this degree and not motivated enough to get a job I'll try. ;)
I just searched the gcam wiki for pocketing and came up dry.
I was afraid of that.
Well... gotta run.
[03:56:04] <skinnypuppy34> http://gcam.js.cx/index.php/Manual_Example_2_-_Aluminum_Heatsink_for_Dual_60w_Audio_IC_with_Integrated_Jack_Panel
I played with the last version a few hours and spit out miles of slot code
[03:58:45] <skinnypuppy34> http://gcam.js.cx/index.php/Manual_v2#Enable_Pocketing
cradek did you get your enco vice dialed in any better?
I haven't figured out if the vise top and bottom aren't parallel, or if it's my table -- probably the table
I have to put a .003 shim under the right side to cut flat
remove the vise and measure from spindle to table
I'fm not sure it's that easy, since the table doesn't move in a straight line
but of course I should try that - I don't recall doing it
Mine cuts flat, if you can keep the fixed jaw end from rising slightly when clamped...
this one doesn't do that
that's why you get a "kurt-style" vise - they don't lift like that
Think I'm going to go for a cnc style two part and make a dowel hole thread hole row plate
two checks for the table are leaving an indicator in the spindle and sweeping the table back and forth
to check the table's straightness compared to the ways/guides
I need to get one of those stones that takes the burrs off too
then rotating the indicator in the spindle over the table to make sure the spindle is parallel to the table
then, everything will cut straight
toast: if my tramming is wrong, I'm screwed (it's a rigid ram)
I could use a little stoning but have scraped any highs
so, I haven't checked it :-)
LIVING ON THE EDGE
toast you ok or ko?
the fly cutter does seem to drag going both directions, it must be very close to right
jk bout the margaritas
oh i finished those up hours ago
i'm back to sober now
if you get reasonably even finish when using a flycutter, then the head is trammed nicely
yeah, I do
on the table?
woo hoo . I'm just greasy. Been measuring for brackets pulleys
the flycutter is dragging on the table, right
not the part?
no I mean when I use it in either direction I get full circles
what would you call the stone you use to remove burrs from the table etc?
Yep everyonce in a while after some heavy flycutting I'll see the trailing edge taking a skim cut....
does it have a name?
cradek from what I understand they are prepped by blocking flat atop a surface plate with some sandpaper. Don't know the stone name
cradek: i have often asked that question, and nobody seems to know
I bought a scraper from this guy on ebay... that is great quality if anyone is looking for some
[04:17:56] <skinnypuppy34> http://cgi.ebay.com/AUTOMOTIVE-TOOL-MAKER-MACHINIST-CARBIDE-SCRAPER-1-000_W0QQitemZ290172286487QQihZ019QQcategoryZ42337QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
where to get one then
[04:18:48] <toast> http://www.airbearings.com/pricelist?PHPSESSID=f96eb3fb4098dfb60ad39273749dc0d3
look at the very bottom, last one
250 bucks from PI
and PI makes good crap
[04:20:33] <skinnypuppy34> http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=6708&title=GESSWEIN+RUBY+STONES
I'm not used to 250$ stones toast
roundstone, 2 roughnesses, mfctr is Bear looking for one now, cheap maybe 1 bucks, use it to clean machine table surface, and bottom of moulds before laying it down
[04:28:51] <toast> http://www.ablap.com/
you might consider ablap
i met the guy who owns it, he's real nice and his customers are real positive about them
might be better for your application than a flatstone
hey - they're about 50 miles from me
wel, 75 if you have to drive on the roads and avoid mountains and stuff
superfinishing by hand whats what
oh crap, i reserved that book at the library and havent picked it up yet
bear was bought by norton, norton is owned by Saint-Gobain thier roundstone is avaialble at J&L so likely at any machinists supply house http://www.jlindustrial.com/ADZ-01024A/SEARCH:CATEGORY/product.html
that is not as nice as the old bear's ( red stones ) but comes under the name 'diebrick'
i had a small alumina triangle stick that came with a pocket knife.. worked very well for final honing
/ maybe 10 bucks, / maybe 20 bucks the big groove and 6" diameter make it nice to clean the table and work
wow, coarser and smaller and more expensive
so why is this better than an old grinding wheel that i've flattened?
stones have a much finer grit than grinding wheels are available in
and don't break down
like a wheel does
toast is now known as toastydeath
[08:06:43] <alex_joni> http://learning.dtpm.unipa.it/emc/it/demo.htm
<- that's nice :)
Guest905 is now known as skunkworks_
Guest905 is now known as skunkworks_
Guest905 is now known as skunkworks___
hmm I tried gutsy live the other day.. works like a treat
norton ( the grinding wheel / norbrite stick people ) and Granfors Bruks both sell an 'axe sharpening' roundstione that would be good for cleaning burrs/removing bumps from work table and parts
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/src/emc/task/emccanon.cc: add centripetal accel constraint for helix/arc, separate axial and circular vel/accel for helixes (might have the chance of faster circles if the machine has different max speeds/accels)
it's not as large a diameter as the old Bear tool but is 'hand sized' at 3" dia.
cradek: here it is, the old Bear stone for tables & workpieces ( not listed in Nortons catalogs ) http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-4-x-1-Round-Combination-India-Stone-P148C8.aspx
man. one of those and a whole lot of patience could be a really good thing :)
the art of removing the bump... until it fades into the larger flat surface
tomp: you think 4" is big enough?
i seemed to recall a 6" but they dont list larger, you gotta let it lay flat and not tip it
flattening your table?
and not let it rock at the edge
seems like bigger would be better
I think dad has used red brick.. :)
and a nice oil slurry
for some reason that doesn't sound too precise
big figure 8 sweeps, up/down, then l/r then diagonals, yep an arkansas red stone on the nice side
and cleran it by popping it off a clean oiled surface, pulls all the dirt out
nah - take it to the high pressure car wash :)
has anyone seen these motors http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007062621461319&item=10-2351&catname=
no, but looks interesting
I have a similar ametek from them. there are no specs, so I can't tell you what it is
i think skullworks sent me the link awhile back
or skunkworks? ;)
was it you
maybe it wasn't you.
there's an extra wire they say not to use - wonder if it's some kind of tach
it sez ackside had a stub end of shaft and mounting holes for 'sensor'. i suspect no tacho/encoder on this unit
nice to have the dbl ended shaft
save a lot of work
click the "more photos" tab
that's an awfully small shaft back there
im sure us digital has 1 that will work on that dia
im just wondering if it has a skewed armature
am i the only person who thinks g10 is backwards? i'd expect to move the machine to some point and then define the current location in the part coordinate system
rather than defining the part coordinate system origin in the current coordinate system
* alex_joni abstains from g10-related discussions :)
and what's that L2 for anyway
so it doesn't get mixed up with L1
is l1 documented somewhere or am i just blind?
no, I think rs274ngc doesn't use it
(Set current offset to zero)
well, that's what i was trying to do, but the general case is set current offset to (xyz)
um, no, nevermind
its easy to misinterpret this stuff
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/src/emc/task/emccanon.cc: harmless comment to clarify the usage of some variables
03cradek 07TRUNK * 10emc2/src/emc/task/emccanon.cc: fix comment
this is cool, i got pcmcia wifi to work :) Dlink DWL-G650
tomp: what did you use? I ended up using fwcutter.