gringos is now known as Unit41
any suggestions for where to find morse taper 2 holders? (with draw bar, not tang). this is for a benchmaster mill http://www.lathes.co.uk/benchmaster/index.html
btw tony's site is a great resource for small mills/lathes/shapers http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
hiyahiyahiya back from tulsa again
this weekend will try to hook my differential encoders up to emc using the digikey parts i found when i got back :)
tomp: tried looking at www.littlemachineshop.com? think the HF micromill uses MT2 hodlers
ds2: thanks, i finally found http://www.victornet.com
which had collets and end mill adapters. i could buy individual pieces rather than sets. the adapters look the same.
happy friday ppl....
can you substantiate that?
well, i'm not dead yet.. so i'm happy i guess!
we can fix that
or the other way round.. not sure!
thanks for the offer!
[02:11:34] <ohiopctechDOTcom> http://ohiopctech.com/noth1ng/pfolio/squirrel
<- a page i made when i was bored today after i had my digital camera outback with me...
if anyone is bored now.. lol
...my poor sheep
it's so lifeless now on the front porch
you must have too much time
i do.. i need to find a hooker or somethin
what kinda stuff do you mill ?
anyone know how to make a dual boot linux/windows machine with each os on a different hard drive?
art-ish stuff mostly..
install windows first
then make it drive 2
we should come up with plywood projects people can cut and assemble
use grub in the MBR of the first hard disk, and put Windows on that disk, Linux on the second disk
like chairs and benches
then put the blank linux drive as master
then install linux
Windows needs to boot from the first disk
grub should pick upthe windows install during the linux install
at least, it's a lot happier if it does
yes, but Linux should be on disk 2, not 1. Windows gets confused if C: isn't BIOS HD 0x80
SWPadnos that's right
linux on the second disk
but install windows first
I tried the old swap bios trick in grub, but it gives me a batch of crap
you can alternatively use the windows boot menu to start linux
you have to hand edit it thouh
the volume group thing seems to have messed it up
can the windows menu boot OSes on different disks?
i did it before
oh, cool. didn't know that
if you get the settings jsut right it works
same as grub then ;)
you can actually boot windows off of the second disk
(blindfold your windows when you boot linux tho, so it doesn't get jealous)
it's harder to do it that way
i use grub now.. but i can jsut select which rive i want to boot from with my bios
with the price of hard drives being so low, it surprises me that all the instructions online talk about one disk
so i don't need any boot manager really
well, drives are so cheap, you can stick serveral reasonably large installs on one :)
i use a machine with ubuntu LTS/windows xp pro dual boot
I just ordered a couple (more) 300G SATA-2 drives for $80 each or thereabouts
but that cuts down on the max size of the porn collection
I could have gotten less expensive ones, but I wanted to match some I already have for a RAID
unit41: i was thinking about some kinda kit i could cnc the parts and sell the other day
The thought of reinstalling is no fun
i didn't come up with anything really...
a puzzle maybe
use the HD for data and swap, and boot from separate ~4G USB disks ::
im looking for partners on projects
if you wana pair up I can autocad a design
I guess I could put a third hard drive on this system
i have 3 drives/7 partitions a 20 gig, a 30 gig and a 120 gig... the 120 has a 30 gb linux partition and the swap space.. the rest of the space is fat32 for windows
* and a dvd burner
Unit41: i will have more options of things i can build once my "bigger" cnc router is completed soon
mine's 20' long
hmm.. mine should be able to do 24" x 48" all the way to the endges when it's done
I used a bed frame at first
20 foot long?
I should take some pics
YEAH take some pics lol
i'll host em on my page if ya need someplace to put them
* same offer for anyone with a homebrew machine
your website has no eye candy
its not jazzy at all
i got like a boatload of storage on my webhost
learn some css ?
i like plain
i know css...
hardcore industrial.. not fluffy and pretty
functional, clean = sexy in my eyes
nm I see the banner now
never loaded at first
i do plan on adding a bit of spice to it.. but not much
i jsut started the design a few weeks ago
soo.... i am still coming up with ideas
if you got an idea i'd be happy to listen!
those ones with 2 peices of pipe as a guide ar the best
angle iron with bearings
websites or machines? i'm lost...
angle iron definitely nmakes the best websites
* Unit41 takes another hit from tha bong
* ohiopctechDOTcom says drugz r bad, m'kay!
you got a digital camera, Unit41?
yeah a good one
GO TAKE SOME PICS AND vids of the machine running!
its not running yet
no seriously though.. 20 feet long?
how do you drive the x?
its steel pipe used for pipelines
03cradek 07TRUNK * 10emc2/scripts/emc.in: I think that was a bad idea to apply to everyone
what moves it though?
I need some chain or rack and pinion
start collecting old bikes and hook all the chains together!
free drive gearing*
I have 500 oz steppers to make it all work
i see a bike in the trash around here at least once a week!
was thinking about using electro magnets
sounds like a headache
what about driving it with a spool and wire/cable
er uh steel rope
need rack and pinion for that kind of percision
20' is alot
without an encoder
you could cut your own rack and pinion gears on a smaller cnc
hell the rack on a manual even
make it two ten foot bars...
never seen that done
allways wonderd about a plasma though'
or even smaller 4 foot sections or something like that
with the ends ground you should be able to do it with some precision... doweled and bolted down
or a spring drive wheel
to fir around the pipe
hope to heck it dont slip
like uh friction drive?
that sound like a possibility!
and have 2 motors on each side
with the pipe radius cut into a rubber wheel
then your motor becomes the drive..
nono this 20' pipe is thick
its 3/4 inch thick
sorry 3/4 inch wide and 1/4 inch thick
ok, two rubber wheels... mounted with a spacer in between to span the pipe. each wheel with 1/4 of the radius of the pipe
something like that for either side of the table.. (1 for each rail)
anybody else picturing that?
O)-(0 <-- looking like that sorta from the end with the table at eye level
with the 0's being the pipes/rails
is wood cutting tedious for a mill ?
you can do it really fast!
jsut make sure you have a shop vac
on something 20' long... you should have multiple heads that can do two different things at once
two ten foot heads
that overlap slightly
its only about 5 feet wide though :/
big enough for a sheet of plywood
half inch thread rod
if I could spin a 2 foot ballscrew i would
grind the ends of some ballscrews till the threads match up, dowel them together... then pin the ballscrews to the dowel
end to end, or with a half flat on each end, or with a dovetail kinda joint...
would be heavy :)
fuck my body's all burnt up from picking rocks all day
hurts to sit
red like a lobster
I gotta do this for anothe r week yet
or prison road crew?
little of both
picking rocks for my parrents
gotta pay my way
better than weeds
I love weed spraying
pulling not wspraying
they use hormones to make the plant kill itsself
not really that dangerous even
pulling sucks worse than rocks
with a sunburn
I like weeds cause you can sit in them for a while to evade the sun
better you than me
is emc2 sleeping now?
or is it silently running basment/garage workshop machines in the background?
...all around the world
in your neighbors garage... in your old man's tool shed
that computer geek down the street is machining parts for his new go-cart with his hombrew cnc...
All too busy to chat on irc right now...
is the voltage across an inductor at any point determined by Vapplied - L * dI/dt ?
it's going to change with the position on the inductor
exactly...there may be a formula, but i would just tap it and use a meter...
there is waay too many variables
it's basically linear, I'm thinking of a center tap on a transformer
trying to understand a high voltage generator
if that is correct and I feed in a steep enough triangle wave, I should be able to use that to induce a high voltage
cut at the middle, and you are going to get half the voltage drop
and if there is a second coil near by, I should get a multiplication determined by the ratio of turns
does this make sense?
so it would work?
I forget the exact circuit for a voltage doubler, but that is the approximate idea
sort of.. in a strange visual electric field kind of way
ehh.. don't mind me
toying with the idea of machining a small engine ;)
this is my first one... so 1 cyl.
i bet a harley 2 cyl is documented somewhere.. it could be scaled
to make a mini bike?
no, just to play with
gears and cams are too complicated to make so it would be electronically timed
maybe even use EMC as the timing peice ;)
simple rotary distributor
but the valves
found a site where someone did it a few years ago... can't find it anymore
you could time the solenoid with the same rotary distributor
...different contacts at the right degrees
but it'd be mechanical... software is so much easier
probally a PIC is more practical then EMC
maybe I am too young, but a distributor is so cavemanish
with pot adjustable timing
one step at a time... I need to figure out how to generate the 10KV for a spark plug
an ignition coil
straight from jegs
where does one find an ignition coil thesedays?
auto parts store
[04:30:41] <ohiopctechDOTcom> http://jegs.com
[04:31:39] <ohiopctechDOTcom> http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_10681_-1_10369
are they reasonably priced for a toy project?
oh, that is cheap
the copper is probally worth more then that
the first one i clicked on.. a crane cams models was 31.99
they aren't very big
about the sixe of a pop can
I used to play with one back when I was a kid
the traditional looking ones are $18.99 or $22.99
[04:33:12] <jmkasunich_> http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_750781_-1_10681
looking at those
and I can just feed in a 12V P-P square wave on the DC side to do it?
they run from a car battery
so you need lots of amps
you need to get some current going in it, then open the primary circuit
one end of coil connects to +12
why can't I feed it a square wave? it sounds exactly like what you are describing
it's actually two coils maybe/i think?
the other end goes thru a high voltage switch (either mechanical (points) or electronic (MOSFET))
or two circuts
you close the switch or turn on the FET, and current starts flowing in the coil
leave the switch closed enough to let the current build up
(not sure what the ideal current is, probably an amp or two)
then open the switch
when you open it, there is an inductive kick, the primary voltage across the switch becomes a few hundred volts, and the secondary becomes many KV
heck, you could buy the enitre ignition system from there to build a race car then just put it all on your mini 1 cyl
the inductive kick is critical - thats why an ordinary square wave won't work
jmkasunich: what is the difference between opening it and a square wave? (what am I missing here)
heck buy one and experiment
inductive kick is what you are missing
just don't touch + and - at the same time
let me put in more details -
connect coil as the collector load on a NPN power transistor; I drive the base with the output of a 555 (0 to 12V)
isn't that what you just described?
find one at a junk yard from a ford excort for 3$ and try a simple test circut
(there is a reverse diode to prevent the NPN from frying)
as long as the NPN power transistor can handle several hundred volts
you can't use the diode
was hoping i could treat it like i was driving a relay
the inductive kick that kills transistors, and that the diode is normally used to prevent, it the key to getting high voltage out of an ignition coil
[04:40:28] <jmkasunich_> http://www.rmcybernetics.com/projects/DIY_Devices/homemade_ignition_coil_driver.htm
but that means I can use a heavy duty relay then
suggestion... look at some other race car ignition parts that are in the circut with the coil for research...
oh okay, so I can't kill the kick on the coil but I can use it on the transistor
ohiopctechDOTcom: that's a lot of work for a "toy" project
ds2: did you see the URL I just posted?
cool, I can that circuit with scrap parts
jmkasunich: yep... that's where my comment about using stuff on the transistor
got a pair of 2N3055's that I got a decade ago for a tesla coil project that never happened
been itching to use them
nice page, jmkasunich_
and good luck
just need to find out what are the chance of me finding a 10mm dia. or smaller spark plug at Kragens ;)
I've just started reading the manual for GCAM. How many of you are using it?
i haven't used it for anything. i have played around inside though
i read part of the manual also
enough to get it moving
skinnypuppy1334: have you drawn anything with it?
not yet. I just got out of the shop and ordering some brass stock on fleebay
[05:17:20] <ohiopctechDOTcom> http://www.metalexpress.net/cgi-bin/index.pl?&ac=acHome&mod=core&sid=d130e27bd0ddc0520f66de03a685244d
*they have a shop ion ayton.. i use them sometimes for stock.. i can even pick it up and see the cute blonde ;)
you got pics of your machine JymmmEMC?
...jsut curious if i have seen them.
[05:20:35] <JymmmEMC> http://farm1.static.flickr.com/166/424362252_1bd7946026_b.jpg
i like the clamping system!
Thanks, it's just some 20-60-90 blocks I made, then just edge clamp using the bar clamps
yup.. i thought about buying some of those little bar clamps but couldn't think of anything to use them for... they were on sal eofr 89 cents or something!
wtf is wrong with my fingers?
geez.. on sale for 89 cents*
They work ok. I'm working on being able to use the clamps and/or screws when I replace the top
I already have all the parts, just need to draw and and machien another plate. LOTS of t-buts to install underneith.
right... toe clamping wokrs good if you onl program half the part at a time, then you can move to the other half for clamping the rest of the part
i been using a side clamp system on my mini cnc
for lexan and wood
i use my 6" scale and a c-clap on the edge of the table.. and clamp the scal against the edge of the part/on the corners against a rail
that is a really clean design for a machine
My machine crashed, I had to reboot in a live CD.
Yeps, screen goes to black when trying to boot. Goes black just as the progress bar under the ubuntu icon gets to full status... doesn't get to the login ..
Could I boot to terminal and try to sudo dpkg-reconfigure xserver-xorg?
you can always try
Linux noob under the hood, thought I'd ask first. I'll try that out. I'd hate to loose all that install.
I'm back. I was expecting one of the grub selections to take me to the terminal prompt... hitting escape on boot gives me the choice of normal boot, a safe boot that takes me to grub>, and memtest.
you can get to a grub prompt somehow and type a command to boot to a prompt i believe, but i don't know the command
skinnypuppy1334: using an LCD display?
No, I'd had 7.04 running a few days and it froze... now it finishes the progress bar booting and never gets to the login prompt.
[08:55:44] <Unit41> http://www.desktopcnc.com/articles/leadscrews.htm
[10:59:55] <Unit41> http://www.desktopcnc.com/articles/leadscrews.htm
03jepler 07TRUNK * 10emc2/src/emc/usr_intf/axis/scripts/hal_manualtoolchange.py:
* sys.path hack is not needed anymore
* extra logic for withdrawing the main window. on my system, the main window would never withdraw if I switched to a different desktop while it was displayed.
anyone have comments on Aram's last post?
my gosh, must be too early in the morning
waaaaaaay too early
for night owls yes
I keep thinking that if Aram wants laser based measurement he will spend more on that than the rest of the machine
I suppose I shouldn't have said anything, since I'm about to go out for breakfast :)
yes he will
eating is a good thing ... go enjoy
also, I'm not sure how fast a laser measurement system is
thanks, we will ;)
laser interferometer is pretty fast since you count fringes but way tooooo sensitive
Depending on what website I got I get different answers... Does this one look right? http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
specifically 18ga stranded
they're not set limits
which is why you'll get different answers
that url says 16A for chassis, another website says 3A
huge difference - neither mentions solid or stranded though
This is interesting... "Stranded vs. Solid Wire" http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WireCapacityChart.htm
Oh, and in respect to customs fees, one seller told me that there is a free trade agreement between Singapore and the US.
I'm not sure how much I trust that page .. with respect to measuring wire heating, the only figure you care about is the current; the power dissipated in the wire is found by Ohm's law, the current, and the wire's own resistance. (P=I2R).
jepler: Yeah, lots of charts, all differnet current ratings. The reason I ask is becasue this encloser I have uses an EIA (standard PC computer power) cable, but all the power cords I have are 18GA and I'll be pushing ~12A @ 120VAC thru it.
perhaps it has to do with whether the wire gets too hot in the presence of a short, in which case it does depend on the voltage (the full available current goes through the wire)
jepler: This enclosure is wired internally with 18ga teflon wire. But won't be buy the time I got done with it =) I be po
I've a problem with Ubuntu Live CD with EMC2 , can anyone help me?
It was originally a PS for test automation, but only rated for 5A
not till we have an idea of the problem =)
ok, when I boot my PC with the live cd Gnome appeared with no icons
First thing.... did you MD5 the iso before burning it?
what speed did you burn it at?
ummm I don't know
but the same CD runs gnome fine on other pcs
Well, sounds like you might have a bad drive if it runs fine on other machiens.
try burning it again at 4x.
I have try with "pci=biosirq" but without results
you could also try md5sum /dev/cdrom too
and compare that MD5 againest the ISO MD5, they should be the same.
will take 20 minutes or so
ok I'll calculate md5sum again
but I think that the CD is fine, I think is a boot option that my PC needs
also sound card repeats the same sound all the time
do you have another cdrom drive you cna toss in the questionable machien?
you could try that
I've try on another pc and it boots fine with gnome and the icons in the desktop
Yes, you said that already, and that is a different cdrom drive too.
I've personally found that if I burn at faster than 4x on some hardware that it doens't read the disc properly.
ok I'll recalculate the md5
thanks, see you when I finish
ok I've finished: the md5sum is ok so the CD is fine
you ran md5sum /dev/cdrom ???
then try a different drive in that machien.
a different drive? it's a laptop, there's only a DVD and a HD
then try an external drive if it supports booting up that way
main boot drive is garlic cheese bread, does anyone have some dipping sauce for it?
oh, and the grease from the melted cheese is slowing my whole PC down!
maybe i should eat it?
hey, I've resolved my issue :)
See, I knew they were twins...
vic: how so?
I've passed the next parameters to the boot= "pnpbios=off pci=usepirqmask"
Gnome loads icons and sounds works fine
thanks for all guys I'm going to probe EMC :)
Hey, has anyone ever seen a replacement EIA power connector? All I've found ar ethe molded ones.
Skullworks_PGAB: PC power cord
All the cords I have are 18ga moulded, I want to toss on a cord with larger wire size
should I fetch my Mousre electric catalog?
and I have seen ( I have one ) 14ga cords
Looks like 14ga == 15A which is just what I need
think I also have a 12ga - but that came from HAAS
ok they stock a 14 ga.
Qualtek P/N 312019-01 - Mouser Stock no. 562-312019-01
9' too, cool
I guess I can order some power resistors and a few smaller caps from them as well.
Hmmmm, maybe some nice connectors too - if I cna find the amperage rating on them.
I really should take a pic of this enclosure, it'll be nice when I get done with it.
I need diodes and caps...
and some XLR 5 pin connectors...
Skullworks_PGAB: What are XLr connectors rated at?
I was thinking of using "CB mic" connectors
but I'm not sure fof the rating
don't recall - but I wanted a "latched" connector and I use std 3pin XLR's for 5v - 12v - gnd
they screw in.... lest chance of bumping loose
It's what I'm using now, but going to higher ratings
I used those to wire in the HAAS 5C indexer to our Okuma mill
I'm talking for driving the motors
they are nice
yeah - I know
I used it cause it was idiot proof
I just dont' know the REAL name of them to be able to look up ratings
kind abuse proof too
radio shack stocked them
RS doesn't list specs like they used to
[17:57:19] <JymmmEMC> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&summary=summary&cp=&productId=2103996&accessories=accessories&kw=cb+connector&techSpecs=techSpecs¤tTab=summary&custRatings=custRatings&sr=1&features=features&origkw=cb+connector&support=support&tab=techSpecs
no - not abuse proof - the plastic par that holds the pins breaks easy where it comes out of the connector - it allows the plastic to rotate relative to the body
Cool! Love shorted wires!!!!
if your leads were not stripped back then your ok
but it is not confidence inspiring...
the plastic still retails the pins as a unit
but there is a chance to short a pin to the body while not connected
what linux needs is a good MUIDE
what linux needs is a good MUIDE
Skullworks_PGAB: I can't find those CB Mic connectors, any luck on your side?
developing should be more human interactive
[18:03:34] <Skullworks_PGAB> http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=cb%20connector%20female&origkw=cb%20connector%20female&sr=1
Skullworks_PGAB: no ratings listed.
I found them on RS site, just not in mouser
* Skullworks_PGAB is indexing....
man I just had a fart that felt like a shit that actually was a shit that should have not have been moment
I will refrain from telling such things
4pin DIN (pg 918) 100v/4A
Kobiconn at the top of pg?
alex_joni: I have a tool set switch mounted. seems to be repeatable to .0007. close enough for me.
XLR - 3pin are rate up to 16A
I used some of these for my servo connectors. http://www.fullcompass.com/brand/NEU/Speakon-Speaker-Connectors.html
lerman: are those plastic or metal housings?
metal are available
The ratings look great... 20A rms @ 250VAC
I forget which model I used... But they were easy to install and use.
POMONA Audio Connectors?
Skullworks_PGAB: POMONA Audio Connectors?
I think I have a newer cat
I used XLRs for my encoder and limit switch connectors.
[18:13:25] <JymmmEMC> http://www.mouser.com/catalog/630/927.pdf
what cat # ?
those look like XLR
[18:14:44] <JymmmEMC> http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/927.pdf
but there all selling versions of XLR's
Neutrik is NOT a version of XLR. It is rated at much higher current.
Skullworks_PGAB: I understand, just would like to use connectros that are easily replacable at 4pm on a Sinday if ever needed =)
I use 5pin XLR's for my unipolar 3A steppers
I know the feeling
Though lerman's looked kinda cool, not sure on the interlock though
lerman: won't come loose easily
but quality metal XLR's are bomb proof - the cable is the weak link.
One lil bump of the release tab and you're screwed
You'll even blow gecko vampire drives =)
The Neutriks have to be pulled than turned, I believe. (Pull the housing back and then turn it, I think.)
you must have faith - and trust your design
You cannot just pull the cable and have them come loose.
lerman: the Neutrik's you mean?
people use DIN plugs all the time with nothing but the pin tension holding the connector in.
Skullworks_PGAB: cheap bastards
even I'm not THAT cheap
Or we could go total HARDCORE and use AMPHONOL Mil grade connectors...
I am using molex connectors and have them tywraped together - anything you can use as handcuffs is good enough for me =)
Unit41 is now known as theHand
Skullworks_PGAB: ok, Sine we are now on the same mouser cat, did you say you found those CB Mic connectors?
I just need the ratings on them'
Old Hurco mill had an AMP mil spec round connector for the RS-232 port...
not the same - close
skunkworks: you said these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150120823285&rd=1&rd=1
theHand is now known as Finger12
lerman: are you using those connectors you mentioned?
petev: Do you know the REAL name for these? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&summary=summary&cp=&productId=2103996&accessories=accessories&kw=cb+connector&techSpecs=techSpecs¤tTab=summary&custRatings=custRatings&sr=1&features=features&origkw=cb+connector&support=support&tab=techSpecs
lerman: using shielded audio cable too?
Three of them, one for each axis. Plus XLRs for the encoders, limit, and home connectors.
Hmmm. I think I'm using lengths of extension cord for the power cables.
lerman: I need 4c cable
BTW: I'm using Jon Elson's universal servo controller.
I'm using Home Depot 4c shielded right now.
I'm using shielded for the encoder, but not for the servos.
How is the USC working out?
I'm quite happy with it.
sorry Jymmm, my battery died
are you using an index pulse when homing?
petev: Do you know the REAL name for these? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&summary=summary&cp=&productId=2103996&accessories=accessories&kw=cb+connector&techSpecs=techSpecs¤tTab=summary&custRatings=custRatings&sr=1&features=features&origkw=cb+connector&support=support&tab=techSpecs
those are usually called circular DIN connectors
No. I'm not. (My encoders don't have an index.)
but there are many types
petev: no doubt, having ahard time looking in mouser catalog for them. Trying to find the ratings.
what are you trying to connect?
* Skullworks_PGAB is obsessive about repeatable homing with index...
I would if I could but I can't so I won't.
_petev: I'm using those now for connecting xylotex drive to my steppers, but now going to 48VDC@3A
Conxall has some sealed plastic versions of the mil type connectors that are pretty cheap
let me see if I can find you a link
jym : still battling lost steps?
I just like those "CB mic" connectors as they seem available anywhere
try this digikey link
[18:32:47] <_petev> http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T072/P0347.pdf
I think mouser carries them too
Skullworks_PGAB: For the last 18 months. Alright got a new PS and 3900uF 400V caps. Now need the rest of the stuff.... drivers too
we have been digging in the mouser cat - but can't find them
I may just bite the bullet and get a Vampire for my Z axis...
20-24ga == 2-7A rating.
they have larger ones too
there are mini, maxi, micro, etc
_petev: I like the CB Mic ones as I cna pick up a replacement at 4pm on a Sinday if I ever needed to.
true, but they aren't sealed
Just havne't been able to find the ratings or rela name for them.
_petev: neither is my enclosure =)
well, then I guess it doesn't matter ;-)
_petev: those connaxal are inline too?
the DIN 4pin uses smaller pins and is rated 100v/4A
they are pretty nice connectors
_petev: Cool, I'll keep them in mind.
the price is pretty good when compared to real Amphenol mil connectors
Skullworks_PGAB: cool beans
_petev: Lets not go there.... we dont need commas in the price =)
I think your safe with them
I hear you, that's why I usually use these
Skullworks_PGAB: I think so too.... would jusr like to find the real name for em.
and I usually just use a cord grip at the eclosure and save a set of connectors
oh, hardwire to the case?
post the pics on CNCZone - maybe someone can ID the mugshots.
is a fitting that goes in a typical electrical knockout hole and seals ont he cord
can you use inline connectors, with a total length from end to end of 4ft or less?
jmkasunich_: No, needs to be 15'
well 18' for the Z
using energy chain which is taking up all the length
I have several of these: http://jmkasunich.dyndns.org/pics/P1010001.JPG
very nice heavy duty seaked
but they have only 2ft of wire on each end
The stepper arn't sealed... just four leads coming out.
MY steppers http://www.xylotex.com/StepperMotor.htm
I may build a combo stepper heatsink/coolant seal.
just for that reason
jmkasunich_ is now known as jmkasunich
I'm using PC power (molex) connectors closest to the motors, and CB Mic connectors on the other end right now.
I have themolex connectors tie wrapped together
Anyone have an idea on the bleed resistor value/rating I would for a 3900uF cap coming off the switching PS?
sometimes l like long walks on de beaches
how many volts? and how fast do you want it to bleed down
use a 120V halogen bulb
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/boss/boss.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/common/ (axis_manualtoolchange.hal core_sim.hal): replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/dallur-thc/ (dallur-advanced.hal dallur-halvcp.hal): replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/demo_sim_cl/demo_sim_cl.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/demo_step_cl/demo_step_cl.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/etch-servo/etch.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/hexapod-sim/core_sim_6.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/halui_halvcp/halvcp.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/lathe-pluto/lathe-pluto.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/max/max.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/motenc/motenc_io.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/m5i20/m5i20_io.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
it will dump the current just fine
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/nist-lathe/nist-lathe.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/puma/ (puma.ini puma.var puma_sim_6.hal): replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/scara/ (scara.ini scara.var scara_sim_4.hal): replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/sim/ (axis.ini servo_sim.hal sim.tbl tripodsim.hal): replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
jmkasunich: Mariss' whitepaper says to use a 2000uF to 10,000uF cap if you use a regulated/switching PS. I got a 48VDC @ 5.5A Switching supply and I got 4 3900uF @ 400V caps that I can wire series/parallel as needed.
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/stepper/ (sim_pinout.hal standard_pinout.hal xylotex_pinout.hal): replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/vti/vti_io.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/stg/stg_io.hal: replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/configs/stepper-xyza/ (inch.ini standard_pinout.hal): replace linkpp with net. linkpp is obsolete
lets assume you use two in parallel (series would be stupid, they're rated at 400V, and the only reason to series caps is to get a higher voltage rating
(or is the 400V a typo?)
anyway, 2 in parallel gives you 2x3900 = 7800uF
No, they are rated at 400V, I got em for $6/ea - couldn't beat it
which is 0.0078 farads
I bought 4 so I could sell any spares
how fast do you want it to discharge?
under 10V in 5 seconds? under 1V in 1 second? it makes a big difference
jmkasunich: It was just suggested that I toss a bleed resistor on them "just in case" but I have nfc what I should use.
since 48VDC isn't particularly dangerous, it probably makes sense to start with a wattage number and let the discharge time be whatever it works out to
so, lets say you can get a 1/2 watt resistor
figure 10 sec if E-stop will freeze the step/dir
for reliability you don't want to run it at much over 1/3 watt
P = V^2 / R
so R = V^2 / P
Skullworks_PGAB: I'm wiring in a REAL E-STOP too using a relay and a 100W WW dump resistor
R - 48 * 48 / 0.333 = 6918 ohms, you could use 6.8K or anything higher
the time constant will be R * C = 6800ohms * 0.0078farads = 53 seconds
jmkasunich: I understnad the caps are to give the BEMF some place to go when using reglated/switch supplies. So will the 53s be ok?
so after 53 seconds, the voltage will drop to 37% of the original value - 17.6V
jymmm, I have a bunch of 20 W resistors that came off the stepper circuitry in my BP
I can send you some if you want
the 53s is the time that the bleeders will take to discharge the caps after you turn everything off
I think they are in the 50 ohm range
Jymmm was that clamp setup on your table all you ? cause thats genious
50 ohms is rather low, at 48V they'll draw an amp and burn 48W
jmkasunich: ok, that sounds good... would take me that long to get into the case anyway =)
Finger12 is now known as gringos
jmkasunich, 50 ohm is still a pretty slow time constant with 7800 uF
Finger12: Yes, but I am working on being able to use screws too
I would use a FET to switch them in
or a relay or whatever is handly
_petev: in respect to charge or just discharge time?
Let me see if I cna find the quote...
where did you guys get that svn bot ?
_petev: depends on what you have in mind
if you are doing estop and want them to stop the motors, yeah, its slow
if you just want a simple and reliable bleed-down after you power down, I think a high value resistor permanently connected is safer than a low value one that has to be connected by some switching device
man, if it's not the battery, it's the wireless
gringos: cvs bot in our case.. from cia.vc
15K, 2W is standard value available for motor start cap bleed down
If a linear regulated or a switching supply is to be used, then a
> large capacitor should be placed across the output terminals. A 2,000
> to 10,000 uF capacitor should do.
But that's all it says. I just read elsewhere that a bleed resistor is a "good idea"
Now for the real ESTOP, I'm using a 100W at 4ohm dump resistor =)
if the dump resistor is automatically connected across the supply when you switch off, a bleeder is not needed
but 6.8K to 10K at 1/2 watt permanantly connected across the cap can't hurt, and provides bleed-down if something prevents the dump resistor from doing its job
jmkasunich: Oh, just 1/2 W ???
* JymmmEMC tries to remember color code.... br blk brn 10K ?
its a small short
JymmmEMC: read back, I started with 1/2 W and calculated the resistance
cause 1/2 watt is easy to get
10K is brown/black/orange (5 or 10%) or brown/black/black/red (1%)
if you need faster than 53 seconds bleed-down time, then you use less ohms and more watts
Yeah, I screwed up the multiplier agian, heh
I cna pickup a ceramic power resistor for $0.50 at the surplus store
10K should be easy to find.
you don't need a power resistor
10K -> 1/2Watt
if you are going to get a power resistor, then you can use less ohms and get faster bleed
Just for the record... I wanted an unreglated supply, but the sheer cost compared to this switching supply and 3900 caps was still cheaper.
I actually have TWO 48VDC@5.5A swtiching supplies and FOUR 3900uF@400V caps. Figure I'll sell the second set and breka even.
Any comments on these drives? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150120823285&rd=1&rd=1
used item - sold as-is - from Singapore
shipping for 3 would be $48
what the heck is XtVaCreateManagedWidget
[19:16:19] <JymmmEMC> http://www.parkermotion.com/manuals/oem/OEM_manuals.htm#OEM650
is this not qt or gtk ?
never herd of XtVa
Skullworks_PGAB: Yeah I saw that... would be $162 including shipping. Big difference from $461 for 3 G203V's
Pete is bouncing more than a hutch full of rabbits in heat! LOL
use rabbits instead of a lawnmower
yeah, I think the wifi in my notebook is dying, or something is causing major interfernce
_petev: on the cordless phone?
or maybe the neighbor is?
no, and its 900mhz
HARDWIRE and be done with it.
everything is hardwired, except for my notebook
HA! Nobody in Calif uses corded phones!
that's for sure
I just escaped From CA
It took me YEARS to find a corded base that works with no power and multiple cordless handsets
got to fly over LA zoo and watch it burn...
Skullworks_PGAB: that cold man, cold.
acutally It was about 93 deg
* JymmmEMC sighs *
skunkworks: wake up!
those hills were primed to burn - wasn't a question of if... only how soon.
All the eucaliptus trees
and its only going to get worse - CA is going to have a bad fire season.
Always does... SB National Forest
Prolly going to go back to water rationing too.
at least in So Cal
was a fun visit
gringos is now known as Unit41
Unit41 is now known as Unition
im still unsure of XtVa but I was able to find traces on the www
XtVi is the gui api ?
if so whats the homepage
to get the URL you must change your Nick another 1000x.
sorry I was reminissing with one of my old os buds
503 gone to bed
404not found :)
good night :)
thanks, good night all
[22:54:20] <ohiopctechDOTcom> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emc2
anyone know how to edit the wikipedia?
maybesomeone could add a link to linuxcnc.org
[22:56:02] <ohiopctechDOTcom> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CNC
[22:56:10] <SWPadnos> http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=The_Enhanced_Machine_Controller&action=edit
there's no content, but that may be a good plac efor it :)
the other links i posted maybe should have link to that page
wow it's a real p.i.t.a. to edit that thing
[19:00] <ohiopctechDOTcom> would anyone like to volunteer to add linuxcnc.org and/or EMC2 the enhanced machine controller information to wikipedia?
** in the wikipedia channel
there is a link onthe bottom of the cnc entry
Thanks again for your help with xorg last night. I never could get reconfigure xserver-xorg to give me the proper display res, so I copied the xorg.conf from the /etc/X11 on the live boot to the xorg.conf on the hdd1 install. It got my resolution back up.. but now the restricted driver blanks the screen out after enabeling and rebooting.
quick simpe work around for that part atleast
what video card and monitor?
monitor is a vx900 19 inch gateway. Card is an older gforce with 32meg... everything worked more than 5 days even with beryl.. partly my fault, I left it overclocked with the AC off.... it was hung when I got to it in the evening... this is where the probs started.
hmmm. that's a CRT monitor?
Is there a chance that restricted driver has become corrupt? There wasn't any reconfiguring or swapping going on what could change? Yep all 40 or so lbs of it
the key right there... overclocked...
I wouldn't bet on the driver getting damaged, but it is possible that the card has been damaged
yep... it's stable so long as it doesn't get over 80 f.... card works fine in live cd, windows screensavers ... etc
try booting into single user mode (press 'e' at the grub prompt, then 'e' again on the kernel line, then add the word 'single' to the end)
overclocking is like redlining your bmw!
from there, "startx", then look at the X log, /var/log/Xorg.0.log
or copy it somewhere else and reboot into graphical mode, then look at it with a nicer viewer :)
you can also try reconfiguring and/or reinstalling the nvidia-restricted-modules package
dpkg-reconfigure <whatever the actual package name is>
My celeron is more like a noisy honda than a bmw... Thanks for the advice on what to check SWPadnos I'lll check it out in a bit.
The lights are on but nobody home!