dad is now known as jlmjvm
are you well?
spent the evening fscking about with this poxy wireless router
how I HATE THEM
get wires and be done with it
I like wireless ...
but the poxy desingers need taking out and giving a good kicking
all i want it to do is?
whats it doing
jlmjvm, annoying me
all I need it to do is:
connectot wireless devices as 192.168.2.x ,.,,
send those packets out onto my wired 192.168.1.x network
how hard is that?
I do not need it to:
the wired net is administered by another router?
thi thing has a bazillion useless options
mac address filtereing,
think they need to be on the same network
jlmjvm, thanks for trying
mac filtering can be useful
so what is it doing? assigning IPs on the .1 net?
jmkasunich, it will work perfectly for a month or two and then go completely arsewit ... I have to factory reset it, plug in to the wired ports I dotn normally use on it, dhcp .. load congig, blah
nah, it just periodically craps itself
I would have preffered they left off all that crap and just workend on making it stable
my original one was a Lucent gateway .. it just sat on the ethernet and had a pcmcia card in it and "did its thing" .. simple bridge between the two nets
which was fantastic until it got rained
anyway .. thats cheered me up
what has? beer?
no .. what just whining about the wireless thing ... got it off my chest
sometimes that works quite well
saved me takingit into the back hard and flattening it with a brick anyway
[01:25:11] <K`zan> http://wrlabs.shacknet.nu/~vw/MyMachineShop/tmp/WoodToolRest/
robin_sz: I'm using a d-link wireless router as an access point only - just turned off DHCP and plugged the LAN side into the local network.
robin_sz: the WAN side is swinging in the wind
03cradek 07TRUNK * 10emc2/src/emc/usr_intf/axis/scripts/image-to-gcode.py: allow user to specify spindle speed in image-to-gcode
03cradek 07TRUNK * 10emc2/lib/python/rs274/author.py: allow user to specify spindle speed in image-to-gcode
* Jymmmm drops a pin... KaBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!
hey use a non sparking pin!!!!!
In was a grenade pin =)
still don't want a gas explosion before it detonates!
it was brass I tell ya, just a VERY fase fuse
nobody home (I think)
ALARM: ZERO AXES
too tired to figure that out
a-l-p-h-a read it agian, took me a sec
raptors vs rockets... raptors got torn to shreds.
I get it now.
i work on hal and try motion.adaptive-feed but i get the message pin does not exist
what is wrong ?
steves_logging is now known as steve_stallings
cncjunior: is your nickname related to the machine that you are using? I remember a company called 'cncjunior' a long time ago
DanielFalck: no, my name is rerlated with my cnc knowledge
I had a friend who had a 'cncjunior' mill/drill. I changed out the control for him
i work on an adaptive cnc project . i need all 5 in pins from parport
pin 10,11,12 , 13 are ok but emc 2.1.1 can't see pin 15
i want to install now a second parport. how ?
easiest way is to plug in pci parallel port, it may give you 2 new parallel ports. then, use 'lspci -v' to find its address(s).
0000:00:09.0 Parallel controller: Siig Inc CyberParallel (2-port) (prog-if 02 [ECP])
Subsystem: Siig Inc CyberParallel (2-port)
I/O ports at 9400 [size=8]
I/O ports at 9800 [size=4]
I/O ports at 9c00 [size=8]
I/O ports at a000 [size=4]
then in your .hal file add oadrt hal_parport cfg="0x9400" (whatever you got reported by lspci
loadrt hal_parport cfg="0x9400"
i have an old PIII at 500 Mhz and an ISA card with parport on it
cncjunior: what do you mean emc "can't see pin 15"? Pin 15 appears in 'halcmd show' on my system, though I don't actually use that input pin in my configuration.
then dmesg should show it ( it should be noticed at boot )
tomp: emc forces the kernel parallel port driver not to load, so that no application besides emc can accidentally send data to your mill
jepler: i check with led and halmeter pins 10,11,12,13 and 15.
pin 15 remains on high state
jepler: maybe the parport is not ok, also the c code from source could be wrong.
cncjunior: I doubt the source code is wrong, but that's possible
jepler :i will check on another computer
jepler : also i want to install a second old ISA parport. how ?
cncjunior: you have to determine the address the port uses, and then use that in your hal_parport cfg= string
jepler: ok, i understand, thank you
to have two ports you use 'cfg="addr1 addr2"'
use 0xHHHH for an address in hexadecimal
jepler : i will write down all these sintax, also i have all handboks...
cncjunior: the syntax is shown in section 13.1.1 of my copy of the EMC2 Integrator Manual
jepler: now i found it.
Just this once .. here's the log: http://www.linuxcnc.org/irc/irc.freenode.net:6667/emc/2007-03-17.txt
rayh: what is the term for the distance between the rows (or columns, depending how you look at it) in 3D_Chips? Is that the "step over"?
cncjunior: :( this always happens.. he left... the most common way to find the address of isa parallel port cards is: on the card itself. there are jumpers and legends on most isa pport cards ( not all )
I think that's it, jepler
rayh: thought so, thanks
[15:19:00] <tomp> http://eml.ou.edu/siamak/cnc/stepover.asp
you bet. I know a guy who really cut chips but he had to go back to the original and slice it different both ways.
03jepler 07TRUNK * 10emc2/docs/src/gui/ (image-to-gcode.lyx image-to-gcode.png): document image-to-gcode
03jepler 07TRUNK * 10emc2/docs/src/ (Submakefile index.tmpl Master_User.lyx): add image-to-gcode documentation
03jepler 07TRUNK * 10emc2/src/emc/usr_intf/axis/scripts/image-to-gcode.py:
fix options to have the names I gave them in the documentation
make the plunge feed rate settable in the user interface--it was hard-coded to 6IPM before
On sale for $62.99, worth it? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93981
03jepler 07TRUNK * 10emc2/src/emc/usr_intf/axis/scripts/image-to-gcode.py: backport tool shape computation code from gdepth
Masn, I swear... I love this shedder my gf got me, but scares the crap out of me! I would NEVER want this ting to ever grab something "accidentally".
03jepler 07TRUNK * 10emc2/docs/src/gui/image-to-gcode.lyx: fix typo. add new plunge feed option
jepler: is image-to-gcode visual? (in axis)
Jymmmm: it's not as interactive as I'd like
Jymmmm: I'm not sure what you mean by "visual"
jepler you can see the results of the output before cutting anything.
Jymmmm: yes, the same preview you get with any g-code
[16:38:19] <jepler> http://linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/gui/image-to-gcode/image-to-gcode.png
this shows the image-to-gcode window, and what you see in AXIS after you hit OK
full docs: http://linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/gui/image-to-gcode/image-to-gcode.png
cool beans =)
full docs: http://linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/gui/image-to-gcode/
jepler come a long ways since just your python script =)
Jymmmm: yeah that first script of chris's was a lot simpler
I get a message ERROR: Unexpected realtime delay: check dmesg for details.
however, there are no details in dmesg
oh sorry, there is something I don't understand
Jymmmm is now known as Red70sShow
Red70sShow is now known as Jymmmm
this hal thing is cool beyond my powers to express it
I built a fatigue machine using real time linux, and it's so frustrating to get output
might have to build a fatigue machine controller using hal
unter_e: tell me more about the fatigue machine
unter_e: this link might be of help to you:
[16:53:56] <DanielFalck> http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?TroubleShooting#Unexpected_realtime_delay_check_dmesg_for_details
[16:54:55] <unter_e> http://muri.mne.psu.edu/electro_mech/fatigue_apparatus.htm
I'll have to admit I didn't write that web page, and there could be misinformation there
cool enough though
the load frame was built for Nasa to do work on the saturn 5 project
on the realtime error- I have the same thing going on with a Compaq presario with onboard video. So, I need to figure it out too.
I'm running a pIII, I thought those errors didn't start showing up until p4 territory
Mine has an AMD 500 in it
link says nvidia may cause the problem
have to check which driver I'm using
yeah, but I would never run ati
mostly joking there
what other video cards are there that would be ok? I don't know much about them.
I'm trying to think of any
not many left
all the little companies are using ati or nvidia chipsets, and somehow I doubt that the offbrand chipsets are well supported
it's just that the problems show up with nvidia or ati because we all use them
via still makes video I think
I'm using nv so that may not be it
unter_e: try switching to "vesa"
I don't know if running emc over ssh might cause problems, probably shouldn't
I've got via chrome on an 1g mini-itx and don't see any serious delays.
it runs okey, but haven't tested it fully, though it runs very nice when xopen
seems that it could be my motherboard too though
I'm using a RIVA TNT card
to use visa, can I just go through xorg.conf and replace every nv with vesa?
unter_e: there should be just one
guess I can't count, thought there were a minute ago, but now I just see one
Sure you can hand edit xorg, save a backup in case it won't restart.
That's what I did
rebooting it now, one advantage of ssh, I can still bother you guys while I'm rebooting
hah "Robot Emercancy Stop"
they have a closeup of the keypad too
darn it's spelled right there
oh didnt catch the misspelling
you would hope it would be spelled right on the controller
it might be a cool thing to add to emc, but only 12 available.
I have something very much like that one
those little handle doodads are only useful on big mills and lathes
ones where you have to sit on the table to touch tools off
say I two 6" pieces of (1/8" x 3/8" copper rect. bar) http://tinyurl.com/3yssaz
to make to power rails, a positive and negative. Drill some holes and soldered in parallel three 4700uF 100VDC and a bleed resistor, with tapped holes at both ends for #8 or #10 screws used for quick connects. Is this a dumb idea?
how many amps do you need?
you're trying to make a buss bar?
pretty much a buss bar. I forgot what they were called. jepler that's the smallest copper size I could find. 5amps, MAX!!! but more like 2.8amp.
1/8 x 1/8 is probably good for 40 amps
jmkasunich, but I couldn't make scree terms then at the end... hehe.
are you mounting the caps to the bars, or the bars to the caps?
[18:03:49] <Jymmmm> http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/TB-41/755/41_AMP_FEED-THROUGH_TERMINAL_STRIP_.html
(IOW, how are you gonna secure the whole thing?)
jmkasunich, bars to the caps
[18:04:58] <jmkasunich> http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/TS-205/755/5-POSITION_DUAL-ROW_STRIP,_20_AMP_.html
my dust enclosure is getting way too warm inside (90+F after a 10 minutes job). It's 48 cubic feet, about what CFM would I need to bring in fresh air to keep it cool enough?
how many watts are being dissipated inside?
My 2.25HP router motor collet will burn my fingers
CFM = 1.75 * power / deltaT, where deltaT = degrees C
plus 3 steppers
your router isn't running at a real 2.25HP
either that, or your router has a huge, huge motor
real 2.25HP with a 100% efficient motor would draw 14A at 120V
and routers are far from 100% efficient
Jymmmm: are you doing anything for dust collection? (shop vac or whatever?)
rated at 12a
you should probably start dust collecting
on a router
that's an explosion hazard, along with an inhalation hazard
wood dust, suspended in the air in an enclosed 48 cu ft box, with a router motor that has possibly sparky brushes
[18:13:17] <a-l-p-h-a> http://22.214.171.124/caps.jpg
is what I am going to use. I was going to drill into the 1/8x3/8 bar, 1/16" holes for each cap lead, and solder the cap to the buss bar. At the each end of each buss bar, drill and tap a #8 or #10 for screw terms.
a-l-p-h-a: whatever floats your boat
that assembly still needs to be fastened down somehow
jmkasunich, okay... so it's overkill, but will work...
jmkasunich, okay... I'll show you how I fastened my other ones...
I'd be more inclined to use a terminal block for external connections, fasten the caps down any old way, and wire with ordinary wire
jmkasunich never considered that aspect - floating dust.
and faston connectors
jymmmm: textile factories used to explode from lack of dust collection
Jymmmm: if you can arrange for a shopvac to pull out dust, it will also remove some heat (warm air)
also, you can develop some pretty serious respatory issues with the stuff
jmkasunich My shopvac is 2.5" - would that be big enough?
shopvac with the exaust piped out the window maybe, so any dust that escapes the filter won't bug your birds
gotta be better than what you have now
jmkasunich I have a 4 micron filter on the shopvac
it might die
I don't know the CFM for a shopvac
but it'll work for the time
how many hours a day do you run the router?
if its 1/2 to 2, then shopvac might be ok, especially if its 20 mins on, then off for a while, etc
not much atm, but trying to work out all the bugs right now.
[18:17:55] <toastydeath> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94029
[18:18:00] <toastydeath> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45378
if you're running 8 hours a day, the shopvack won't hold up
[18:18:08] <a-l-p-h-a> http://126.96.36.199/caps2.jpg http://188.8.131.52/caps3.jpg
are how I held down the caps in my other power supply
my shopvac gets warm by itself.
dust collector links on harbor freight
I wasn't ready to spend $100 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94029
loud lil shits
Jymmmm: bet its quieter than a shopvac
well, dust collection in a hobbyist shop is a real serious issue
and most people don't understand it
jmkasunich Thanks for remembering =) But I'm in a garage now, the biries are inside =)
you want dust collection
jmkasunich Yeah, mine is noisey,
toastydeath: since the machine is enclosed, he technically could get away with exhaust instead of collection
he's not breathing the air in the enclosure
exhaust would be great
till I open the doors =)
Jymmmm: can you scrounge an old furnace blower? or something similar but smaller?
But, my gf commented on the smell from the plastics I've been machinging, I might as well go for the blower and add on a activated charcoal filtering too
Eeeesh, I'm gonna get nickled and dimed to death on this one! LOL
ok, does that mini dust collector look ok?
i have no idea
it's harbor freight, it may blow up on the third day
hello together , in case i realy want to learn programming under phyton , wich version do i have to get ??
2.5 would probably be a good start.
plattschnauze, ##python has lots of gurus
is this in art of for example VB-net ?
python has nothing to do with .net
that translator software is not working well.
sorry for that , i mean in style (because i know VB a bit)
the basic concepts are the same, but how you do things in python is different from how you do them in vb
and there is stuff in python that you do not have in vb
ok, is there a way for a non programmer to learn it , in case he knows some basics of programms ?
look for python tutorials
ok , lets start , thanks
[18:33:47] <LawrenceG> http://julius.jornada.com.mx/browser/documents/python/diveintopython-pdf-5.4.zip?rev=49&format=raw
is a good python tutorial
in case it fails , is there someone who could write a programm to catch and save teached positions of emc for 6 axis ?
oh, good point
hello mr Junior
i tested the m52 adaptive feed and it work great.
oh hell... now I gotta see if i have enough juice in the garage... only have a 15a circuit
home depot sells 4/0 gauge
for like a dollar a foot
not my place, or the garage would have it's own panel
i'm saying you could re-run the wire
then you could power your neighbor's house off your garage circut
agian, not my place.
ohhh i get it
"not your place" as in you don't own it
yep =) just a rental
Medium size electroclytic caps ( http://184.108.40.206/cap.jpg
) ~1.25"dia x 2", does mounting orientation (leads up/down) matter?
Though, I do know where there is a unused 15a circuit (non-existant garbage disposal), just not sure how to wire it from kitchen to garage in crawl space.
Custom prined M&M's... mymms.com/freebag7
jmkasunich: Do you think this will keep the heat done to a reasonable level? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94029
for a 48 cubic foot box that is a hurricane
jmkasunich router + blower + pc + drivers == 15a or less ?
read and add
the dust collector says 6.8A
read the router label
the PC is maybe 200 watts = a little under 2A
I've never been sure if label rating is peak, or ???
it is usually the full load rating
if the router is running at less than full load it will pull less than 12A
Jymmmm, great way to ask a girl to marry you...
but the total for everything you are talking about is to much for a 15A circuit
so if label rating is 12a, startup could be higher than that?
but thats not a problem, its over fast enough
don't start the router and the dust collector at the same time is all
yeah, delay timer relay if I ever automate it
can't tell from the pic if that dust collector has an induction motor or a universal motor
(universal motors are like those on routers)
it has replacable brushes if that means anything
induction is more reliable and quieter, with no brushes to wear out and slower speed
ok, then its universal
normally that would be a bad thing - brushes wear out, high speed means more noise, etc
lol "easy Access Carbon Brushes"
but in this case it means you could use a speed controller to slow it down
reduce noise and power draw
you don't need 900CFM
if you want to capture floating dust (as opposed to heavy chip and coarse dust) you can use much less air
on sale for $12.49 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060
200 CFM still means the air in your box gets replaced with fresh every 15 seconds
yeah, like that
okey cool, wasn't sure if speed control would work on this type of motor.
at the sale price, I'd buy two
one for the blower, one for the router
you might find it cuts better at slower speeds anyway
router has speed control on it already 8k to 25k
but, I could use it on the grinder/bench sander
only if it has a universal motor
induction motors are the ones that are rated 1700-1780 RPM, or 3500-3550, etc
[19:01:01] <Jymmmm> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93981
and have no brushes
and you can see the starting cap on the motor (the hump, just above the miter gage on the table)
yeah, saw that
induction motors are better for most stuff - reliable and quiet compared to brush motors
is that sander worht it you think?
on sale for $63
I'm a snob, so you shouldn't ask me about HF stuff
I've never used one before, but have the need for it.
tis ok, I know HF is crap, but once in a while to find a gem in the rough.
I have a HF bandsaw, and I've been happy with it
that's one of the gems I speak of
the rest of my tools are a random assorment, mostly used american made
if you are married, it makes more sense to get high quality
I bought a trim router from HF, it started meliting the casing w/o any load on it.
the problem with used american made is that you can't pick it out of a catalog - you accumulate things over the years as you find them
unter_e: what does marriage have to do with it?
don't have to explain buying something twice
I'm married to a bench jeweler who has an appreciation for good tools
she has about 20 pairs of different kinds of pliers, including the nice $25 german ones
I think I speak for all of us when I say that I hate you
what unter_e said
ok , after reading the first pages of totorial my first thought is , i will never learn it! no time for what it needs to understand , back to my question, anyone else, there are some others outside waiting for a way to teach positions
Jymmmm has changed the topic to: Welcome! EMC (Enhanced Machine Controller) is a linux-based CNC control. | Latest release: EMC 2.1.2 | http://www.linuxcnc.org
|| <unter_e> jmkasunich: I think I speak for all of us when I say that I hate you
don't think that worked the way it should have
Jymmmm: put it back the way it was
jmkasunich dumbass question.... so the speed control will reduce the power draw from the blower?
(and the noise)
Jymmmm has changed the topic to: Welcome! EMC (Enhanced Machine Controller) is a linux-based CNC control. | Latest release: EMC 2.1.2 | http://www.linuxcnc.org
oh, good to know on the noise.
you should be able to turn it down to about half speed and still have floating dust and heat removed from your box very nicely
make sure you provide some air inlet opening, preferrably opposite the box from the exhaust port
or you might suck your box out of shape
John, have you worked with your mesa board at all?
On the top of the 4'x4'x 3' tall enclosure, there is a 2' x4' panel only coverd in canvas
unter_e: a little - got distracted working on the stepgen issues that Ed Nisley found
Jymmmm, loose canvas, or dense?
hope to get back to it very soon
the rest of the sides are covered in clear vinyl on top of al screen
a-l-p-h-a painters tarp anvas
a-l-p-h-a painters tarp canvas
not very porous then
8 sq ft worth
Jymmmm, hmm... yeah, what jmkasunich said.
Jymmmm, think about window screening, 2-3 layers of it.
for a window on the opposite side.
this is an air inlet, so it doesn't have to be particularly "filtery"
pourous, but tiny enough to prevent chips to fly in.
well, if the dbl doors suck closed all by themselves, I know it's too fine =)
the chips are already on the inside ;-)
I saw this at my electronics store today... a 4.2" fan guard with foam for a filter $5CDN, and 4.2" fan gaurd with screening (window screening) for $3.80CDN.
Jymmmm: a 4-8" hole would work for an inlet, or a 1/4-1/2" gap at the bottom, all the way around
or a number of other things
I bet the gap all the way around might be easiest, but you might have some dust escaping if the airflow into the box isn't uniform
where its going in fast, no problem, but if there are spots where the airflow is slow or none, dust might escape
(is this a complete enclosure, or an open bottomed box that just sets over the machine and on the table?
jmkasunich: completed closed, gimme a few and I post pics.
ok, forget what I said about a bottom gap
jmk, were you going to drive step/direction with a Mesa 7I37?
yes, with a 5i20
not with a 7i37
directly, no interface board
woohoo! it's not me pestering jmkasunich about the mesa. :D
the 7i37 is made for turning stuff on and off slowly (less than 1000 times a second)
but the 5i20 can do 100,000 steps per second (or more)
I don't think I will do step/direction, I have electrocraft drives that will take analog or s/d
7i33 will give you analog (the 5i20 does PWM, and the 7i33 filters it into an analog signal)
I bought a 7i33
right now I'm just thinking through the inputs/outputs like drive enable, limit switches and estop
is the problem with the encoder in the current firmware fixable?
the first 4 encoders of the current firmware work fine and always have
the extra 4 are the ones with a problem
and I think that has been fixed too, but I'm not sure if those fixes are in 2.1.2
when I release the step/dir version, it will also have fixed encoders
Ok, the walls are skinned with aluminum screen (with grounding straps), then clear vinyl:
[19:49:08] <Jymmmm> http://farm1.static.flickr.com/149/424362153_e80fc2eb16.jpg
[19:49:31] <Jymmmm> http://farm1.static.flickr.com/149/424362199_da3833a83c.jpg
[19:49:58] <Jymmmm> http://farm1.static.flickr.com/167/424362247_9bce9d31df.jpg
[19:50:20] <Jymmmm> http://farm1.static.flickr.com/166/424362252_1bd7946026.jpg
ok, so to attach the dust collector, you'd have to cut a hole somewhere
in the last photo, you can see where I made a panel for the cabling to go thru
(sort see it that is)
the whitish rectangle in the back
Yeah, larger image here: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/166/424362252_1bd7946026_b.jpg
that dust collector has a 4" port
the cbaling is going thru a 2" hole, then surrounded with foam
dunno if it has any hose with it or not
thus the nickle and dimed to death comment =)
I'm tempted to suggest cutting a 4" hole in the surface that the rack sits on
The entire enclosure is "bolt together", so I can always pull off the rear wall easily enough
so you could just sweep the heavy dust into the hole when you open the doors
I've been temped,
home depot has a really crappy search engine
just figuring that one out huh? Try sears.com search for dust collect
they have lots of blast gates and other such things
they want you to come in person, and impluse buy...
[19:57:22] <Jymmmm> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/search.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&keyword=dust+collection&vertical=TOOL
[19:59:45] <Jymmmm> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Wet-Dry+Vacs&pid=00921389000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Dust+Collection+Systems+%26+Attachments&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
[20:00:01] <jmkasunich> http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/113/gfx/small/55275kp1s.gif
home desperate sells hose like that for pretty cheap
metalized, no static buildup
that kit from sears is pricy
hw store probably has dryer hose like that too
4" hole in the floor of the cabinet, near the front, and piped (hosed) to the dust collector.....
then some opening in the back to let fresh air in
jmkasunich did you see the canvas?
I have no idea how much air can get in thru that
it's not THAT dense - cheap stuff
you could try with no inlet hold
were not talking artist canvas, were talking house painter drop cloth type canvas
just keep one hand on the blower switch, so if it starts to suck your walls in, you can turn it off
yeah, it took me 10 days to skin that thing.
the speed control would help there - you can start slow and gradually turn it up
1/5 of that dust collector's full flow would be enough to control floating dust and heat
and gawd help me if I ever accidentlly bump the control =)
the full flow is for if you are trying to suck up the heavier dust and chips
ok, that makes sense.
well, if the canvas is porous enough it will be ok
also be aware dust collectors have a minimum flow rating
if its not porous enough, I'd make it more porus
they need to flow a certain CFM in order to work properly and not burn out
I was hoping 8 sw ft would be good enough.
toastydeath: thats true for a fixed speed dust collector
8sq ft -vs- 4"
oh, you're looking at something else?
i'll shut up then
CARRY ON GOOD SIRS
he's gonna put a speed control on it - its a HF cheapie with a router type (brushes) motor
so he can slow it down
[20:09:01] <Jymmmm> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060
[20:09:09] <Jymmmm> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94029
[20:09:28] <Jymmmm> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93981
Jymmmm: the canvas might be porous enough already
only way to tell is try it
yeah, I tried to overkill a bit, yet still let light in and keep dust in
I never expected the enclosure to keep SO MUCH HEAT in though
This is a new router (warranty replacement), it might be overheating too. First time use since I got it.
Just read Emc-users Digest, Vol 11, Issue 32 - and all the research done to debunk Paul C.'s FUD report.
guess in a prior life he had ambitions of being a lawyer
skullworks-PGAB: I just tried to read his last message
skullworks-PGAB: he sure uses a lot of words
i can use lots of words!
text pattern camoflage
text pattern smoke screen too
at least he wasn't incorrectly quoting nietzsche
OR WAS HE
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/tcl/bin/halconfig.tcl: apply jepler's fix from HalShow: fix for error: Error in startup script: node "sig+XYZvel" already exists
03alex_joni 07TRUNK * 10emc2/tcl/tkemc.tcl: rename menu Tools to Utilities, as it was misleading
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/debian/ (changelog emc2.files.in): backport hal_input driver
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/docs/man/man1/hal_input.1: backport hal_input driver
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/lib/python/linux_event.py: backport hal_input driver
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/src/hal/user_comps/ (hal_input.py Submakefile): backport hal_input driver
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/src/Makefile: backport hal_input driver
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/src/emc/usr_intf/axis/scripts/image-to-gcode.py: merge from TRUNK: bugfixes, spindle speed setting, plunge feed setting
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/debian/changelog: note image-to-gcode changes
soon I'll have to go through the diffs to see what things I backported but didn't put in the changelog
what servo amps were you using to drive your lathe with the pluto?
just a L298 dual h bridge
single chip - 2A per axis?
or paralleled 1 chip per axis?
one chip for 2 axes
it's beautifully simple
I was going to try a few paralleled L298's but I worry that a motor stall would let the majic smoke out
yeah I worry about that too, but my machine will quickly stop with a following error if there's any kind of stall
the ferrors are set pretty tight
what about a motion reversal at g00?
the lack of current limit is disturbing
I figure it's easy to replace it, I'll blindly go on with it this way - if the smoke comes out I'll do something smarter
I have some Globe No. 21's and some Pittman 14 series but I worry that they will over draw at peak surge.
not sure if a fastblow fuse would be FAST enough
these are pittman mystery motors marked 19.1V
I mean that's what I have
Pittman 14203 and 14437
the l298 datasheet says the 100uS non-repetitive current is 3A per channel which isn't much
I bet you'll get away with more in practice
I was thinking of paralleling 3 chips
I got a bunch cheap
and using a FAT heatsink
I haven't seen multiple L298 packages in parallel before
jepler: true but only 2A/ch for true DC
I saw a guy running a fat Nema 34 using a single 297 to drive 3 paralleled 298's in halfstep
have not seen it used as I intend for a non-stepper application
I mentioned this elsewhere (I forget) and was advised that it should worl provided I retain the caps as shown on the data sheet
just steal that board, pop the l297 out of its socket, and put some jumper wires
you'll be running your servo motor in no time
Still have to rig encoders
hey Q... shouldn't this channel be ##emc, and #emc for devel?
Well I'll draw up the PCB and make it the hard way.
(drawn in CAD and milled/drilled)
I was looking at the specs for the relays I bought wishing that I had gotten the ones with reverse protection diodes.
turns out buying the protection diodes doubles the price of the relay
thankfully I have access to a 12,000 rpm Okuma to do it.
anyone ever used a linux cad program, I'd like to draw up my control cabinet schematics
unter_e: use Eagle
[22:04:57] <alex_joni> http://www.cadsoft.de/
I thought about that, but concluded it might be too rigid
I've seen some really nice schematics in autocad
not regular autocad though
there are loads of extensions for autocad
e.g. Mechanical Desktop
I am messing around with qcad
ok, I'm off to HF... laters
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/docs/src/gui/ (image-to-gcode.lyx image-to-gcode.png): add image-to-gcode documentation
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/docs/src/ (Master_User.lyx Submakefile index.tmpl): add image-to-gcode documentation
03jepler 07v2_1_branch * 10emc2/debian/changelog: note new documentation was added
with v2.1.2 is it possible to share home and limit switches?
twice2: still the same as 2.1.1, nothing happened
skullworks-PGAB: yes and no
skullworks-PGAB: you can share them, but it's a problem if you home axis X and the limit on Y gets activated
I think twice wants to share ALL home and limit switches on one input
thanks, yes all swithces wired to one pin
* skullworks-PGAB plans to wire each axis to one pin
skullworks-PGAB: that works without problms
one prox switch in center
actually homing works fine, as long as i don't connect anymore than one limit in hal. If I do then nothing homes only limits are active
so it triggers for either direction
as a limit
push it to the limit
walk along the razor's edge
that's an idea! but no here are just 5 micro
skullworks-PGAB: emc2's current issue twice2 is hitting, is that there is a limit ignore switch while homing
but that does only work for the axis currently beeing homed
so if after homing 1 axis he isn't far enough off the switch a faulty home might be set for the next axis?
skullworks-PGAB: if you connect all homes and all limit switches to one single pin
then if you hit the home limit on axis x, simultaneously all other limits/homes will be activated
X min & max limit won't matter, as they are deactivated
but Y min & max, Z min & max, etc will trip an error
so there need to be a mod to only set home for the current single active axis?
skullworks-PGAB: you are correct, with all on one pin if I don't set home_offset enough then I would get limit error
if you use one pin / axis, then it's ok
twice2: using home_offset & home clears the error?
needs a function like a Haas mill - Home single axis
if i share one it does
* skullworks-PGAB hate Haas only a little less than Mazak.
i dunno, not being cheap skate, i can buy more switches but i have pin plans
Working with like 20 different machine makes a day sure refines ones preferenes.
add a second LPT port?
and cable and connections, sure i could
we can never have enough wires :)
daisy vrs star
oops thats wrong
dunno, i'm old, i remember ge1050
* skullworks-PGAB still has a coffee can full of film can of paper tape progs
from the 1050 and Bandit days