what's funny? ;-)
* anonimasu is curious about that
I think it can be done
hm, now how do you measure that on a 3phase motor..
you can measure on the power supply ;)
you a violent meter
you need to integrate it somehow
either HW or SW
better HW ;)
I could do it with a plc
but the actual measurement is hard
I could do the programming to lower the feed.. on the fly
how do you power the motor?
what stands VFD for?
variable frequency drive
you can alter speed/torque of the motor..
how is the VFD powered?
how about a encoder or some feedback on the motor?
on the shaft
that would do if the controller software would handle it
even one impulse / turn
I dont know about that..
or a tacho
how fast does it spin normally?
adjusting it wia the amperage is more accurate
as long as you can measure that
speed-adjust ist non-realtime I think
hm, it'd need to be realtime to be useful..
or fairly high priority
if you are doing machining at very high speeds..
you need the response to be accurate
but .. dont know about machining to say that it needs realtime/nonrealtime adjustment
the code to do it would be simple enough (for nonrt, just send some NML messages to adjust the speed)
I might try it
with a plc and a homemade encoder..
for realtime you'll have to figure something else out
maybe modify the speed directly
but this could be bull what I'm saying ;)
that was what I thought about
how do you drive things?
as for now.
you mean freqmod/geckos
I done even run emc yet :D
or you use a stg-type board?
I use turbocnc.. but I'll change as soon as I get some more exp
parport stepping.. right?
then freqmod will be the way to go
and the rest does the gecko
it'll change to a servocard.. later on
I broke a endmill in alu yesterday ;)
that's why I am speculating about regulating the load...
or well speculating/going to implement it.
I think some commercial machines does it..
but well the idea might be stupid :)
don't think so
there are some people out there who would welcome it
I think it'd do wonders for keeping speed up in tough materials
and surface finish..
les might be interested ;)
Imade a little circuit that measures load
* anonimasu wishes he had somthing like that right now
calculates it from servo rpm and current
then solves the second order dif equation
to separate inertia force, friction, and tool load
works ok to a point
friction is a little hard to model so it might not work well with very high frivtion sliding ways
I was thinking about only measuring spindle load...
then there are always strain gages
well started up emc at 4:00 am
trying to catch up
better get a little breakfast
les: look at what I wrote earlier if you get time
I'd love to get some other thoughts on it also :)
trying to maintain a constant spindle speed ?
going for breakfast here at tiger food mart...but one thought
constant chip load is usually desired...
paul_c: constant load
so you might want to change spindle rpm and servo speed both
paul_c: increasing feed/decreasing
was my thought
back in a while
the spindle speed is harder I dont know how to calulate that..
encoder on the spindle ?
hm, I am not sure that it'll do
I am thinking about measuring current consumption..
but if a encoder would do it'd be perfect
but I dont think that'll give the accuracy required
without some special hardware
anonimasu: an encoder would give you the best results.. but
the signals from the encoder need to be counted
and it depends with what you do your counting
if you plan to buy a STG for your other axes
you can put the feedback from the spindle on an unused axis of the STG
you need an encoder with little impulses/rev
but i have access to a plc off work..
because of high RPM
I could use a inductive sensor.. and count on my spindle splines..
don't know what the PLC can do
anything almost :)
well... it can't do NML.. right ?
I could tell it to do nml.
anon: I am hooking a melexis hall encoder chip to a bracket near the spindle collet nut
i dont have a counter input on the spre I have tho..
easy way to get a speed signal
but the new ones arriving..
les: I think rpm is enough... right?
you don't really need a better resolution...
yes rpm and current
hm, the rpm is somthing I can mesure
so if you put an encoder it can be around 10 pulses per rev.
or even less
but not current
that would be plenty
I'll go with a inductive sensor..
I have a spare off work :)
that'll give me around 10 pulses per rev..
that will work
I use a .01 ohm shunt
les: got any idea on how to measure the current?
* anonimasu dosent
I am going to use the plc for controlling coolant
oh for the rpm
and stuff like that..
a shunt or a current loop if ac
that needs > 1A out..
shunt is simple
* anonimasu has no idea on that
basicly you put a resistor in series with the motor winding and measure the voltage
you'll need 3
use a small shunt in order not to affect the motor voltage
and not to get the resistor to heat up
right...I use .01 ohm
you need a small, precise, high watts resistor
but my motor's 3phase and at 5a..
.01 ohm sounds ok
you can even make your own
I found one
10W metal type resistor (1% precision)
I have some on an old motor servo
[12:21:20] <anonimasu> http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/setpage.pl?http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/dyndok.pl?dok=2019178.htm
.02 Ohm, 1% 10W
and i^2r is going to be small
half a watt
at 5 amps
would one of thoose do?
strange looking things
They won't even get warm
I wonder if thoose thingies will do 320v
.1 volt drop at 5 amps
don't worry...they will never see 320
they are floating
just the .1v
hm strange :9
how much voltage do I get out from a shunt?
I've got a 0-10v input on the plc
I'd use one like this: http://www.vishay.com/docs/30201/rhnh.pdf
only one caution...the measuring device must float too
you need a slightly bigger resistor touse 0-10V accurately
not connected to ground on one side
don't put a meter with one grounded lead on!
we got thoose somwhere at work ;)
use a diff op amp or something
scopes often have grounded leads as well
hmm... one more thing les
the plc does ;)
it's not DC
you'll need to measure impulses
well yes 50 hz
if the VFD doesn't do frequency changing
mine does :)
the AC-servos I used use a DC power supply
and basically 3 choppers
either way no big deal to integrate it or do rms
but if it's AC you could use a 1:1 transformer to separate the voltages
then do your RMS or whatever and connect it to the PLC
yes isolation transformer
that'd be perfect
that's what I mean...
carefull only to have it designed for frequencies the chopper uses
perhaps even some stuff to check phase balance if you wish
hm, I use 50->200hz
yup.. a plain transformer might not perform well at 200 Hz
depends on the model
will prob be ok...problem is usually at very low frequencies...the core saturates
I could use a shunt and a rectifier..
I just had a crash-course in transformers ;)
anonimasu... depends on the voltage
remember the rectifier opening voltage
I meant the voltage on the shunt
say you use .01 ohm
at 10 amps (a lot) you'd have .1V
use a precision rectifier...an op amp with a diode in the feedback loop
yeah .. that too
or use a 1:10 separation transformer ;)
hm, way over my head in electronics
but a .25 cent op amp will reduce the forward voltage drop to nothing
(divide by feedback gain)
plenty of info in manufacturer's data sheets
just have a floating front end
I had some big troubles with transformers yesterday and the day before ;-)
I should ask my father on how to do it later :9
I was at a customer and couldn't figure out why a transformer got to heat up
although I dont know if he'll know
eventually I found that the supply had some DC component in it :(
anonimas: the best way is to do it the op-amp way
* anonimasu isnt into op amps
but I'll look at it :)
the simplier the better..
the easy way is to amplify the voltage from the shunt (1:10 transformer), then a normal rectifier bridge, big capacitor
and you're done ;)
I am curious about the programming ;)
not very good on the low voltages
alex_joni: is that what a shunt does
it won't open..
the shunt is only a resistor
like a normal one
it is called shunt because of it's field of operation (e.g. where it gets used)
you'll have a proportional voltage on it based on the current flowing through it (U = I x R)
one quad op amp, 2 diodes, a few resistors, and one bypass cap
the troble I am having with op amps is "what" to use
the voltages/gain/stuff seems too small for most things
I usually just stock fet input ones
cheap and work for everything
use lm 2900 for automotive
$.08 in quantity for a quad
Use Burr Brown for audio
you'll find thousands of schematics for your plan
[12:43:57] <anonimasu> http://www.nzart.org.nz/nzart/examinat/amateur%20radio%20study%20guide/Course%20Files/Meters%20&%20Measuring/STUDY%20NOTES%20-%20METERS%20&%20MEASURING.htm
the place I'd check is inside the producer pdf
usually the supply sample schematics for different type of operations
off to the shop for me...
must make cherry chips
paul_c: very quiet today ;)
* anonimasu is more curious at how well it'd do when cutting
* alex_joni still trying to fit those huge LS7266 ...
I can alwys order a VFD with a integrated plc..
* paul_c is doing research
although at 757$
a bit violent for a hobby thing ;)
the stuff les talked about you can build for 20$
included the parts you'll trash the first time ;-)
[13:08:44] <anonimasu> http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/029905.html
alex_joni: I am going to build thoose things
and write a implementation for it in emc :)
you do that
tell me if I can help you somehow ;)
drop me an e-mail if I'm not on IRC
the hard part is the electronics
at this project that would be the easy part ;)
it's just a bunch of components, nothing fancy
* anonimasu sucks at electronics
I am better at code :)
it's all about experience..
after a while it'll see simple ;)
I'll throw some code down later today
but it depends if I get time
the hardest thing is getting emc to change the feed in almost realtime
hang on a moment
can you do that on the fly?
it's a command the GUI sends to the Taskcontroller
and you can do that whenever you need to
GUI and task controller are nonrt
I wonder how quick it has to be
that does : emcmotCommand.scale = scale;
how much do you have to go through to add a rtscale variable
or to make it respond quicker?
it's tougher at the RT part
don't think you have something like that there
* alex_joni is just looking over the code
you don't have speeds there... you have a commanded and an actual position (I think)
I'd go with the non-rt approach first
build a simple app:
use NML to connect to the task controller
and interface the plc in my case with the serial port..
and send him EMC_TRAJ_SET_SCALE's (1.0 = normal feed,1.2 = 20% more feed, etc...)
you'll see this changes in your GUI as the position of the slider is based on the feedback from the task controller
but you'll be able to change it once per servo_cycle (tops)
I wonder if I could compensate it on spindle rpm..
since I dont have the other stuff at hand
thing is... how do you test it?
and a suicide cut.
or well a pretty tough cut..
put an analog ampmeter in series with the motor (on one of the windings)
and watch it bounce
maybe remember the max value
then run it again with the compensation
if it really makes a difference it would be cool
I'll try it out today..
but I'm afraid of the response time
if I can get emc running ;)
keeping a constant load probably does wonders for tool life aswell
i'll try it out this weekend :)
got any example on how to connect with nml?
let me know how it works
yeah the thing that'll take most time is to set up my configs..
[13:55:42] <alex_joni> http://www.isd.mel.nist.gov/projects/rcslib/NMLcpp.html
I'll tell you how it works
I wish I had a better box for emc..
but well, if this works out I'll get one..
you need to do smthg like example4
yeah that seems pretty straightforward :)
but look also at xemc (yemc) those actually do the EMC_TRAJ_SET_SCALE
I'll do that
I need to leave a bit for some work
have fun ;)
coding some stu
* anonimasu slaps the plc
anonimasu: take a look at feedslider.cc
it does everything you need
type /msg NickServ IDENTIFY 3767411
you need to modify it a bit... it is set up for "remote" you need it for "local"
slomo: without the type ;-)
yea i know, to early
the gcode editor from the menu select does not appear to work
does some config need to be set ?
Someone here told me I could use my lathe and a makeshift broach to cut an internal keyway. I'm just wondering what angles are needed for this said broach. Anyone have clues?
you've lost your terminal ;)
doh... robin_sz isn't around.
last seen 4 days ago.
coffee and apple turnover time
* alex_joni goes home
* jepler_ checks in a change that makes axis support tool radius compensation in the preview plot
jepler_ is now known as jepler
wow was I having a wicked dream
paid for a lunch with some sort of waffle cake money stuff
found a little shop that had these strange small lizzards in it, and a woman was talking all about them,
It was just neat
it had been a long time since I had such a full color dream like that
oh doctor said since I seem to think my arm is a bit better that were gonna keep it in the brace another month, tests showed that surgery should be done,
I had dreams about cnc
I'm workin a bit too hard...gonna be bouncin off the walls soon
Im not sure what I was looking for in this dream but the shop I went into had motorcycle stuff on the outer wall, and other things,
les : are you on time to make deliveries?
les: last night I got my machine to run at 25ipm. I watched lots of blended lines and arcs!
well thay will take all production we can do
you should see it at 250
cradek : oh using segmot?
les: I bet
les: my machine previously could do only about 10 so this looks *really* fast to me
les : hey, I told my wife about your place, she only asked me when :)
I just turned off the machine for the week's production
Monday is mainenace I think
greasing ballscrews etc
that almost looks like a new word
les : you use grese hu?
lube for me is based on contamination
it's basically a good cleaning
some stuff gets under the way covers
ah, but I like greese over oil on slides/screw
most of the contamination is fine wood dust I guess
not too abrasive
thats not so bad
but still not the best
not to resistant to compression either
unless I cut a lot of teak
it has silica in it
quite a bit
all wood has some of that in it though right?
and I am just starting to get numbers on how long the tools last
thats not too bad
I know its an expensive tool
that's 700 minutes
are you using solid carbide tooling? or can you resharpen there at your place?
yes solid carbide
I can sharpen all but the spirail bits
could an inserted tool work, or is the cut geomerty such that it would be impossiable?
Yes...there are insert woodworking tools
might be an idea for some
But I find I must use the spiral downcut
or it will slip out of the collet
to keep the tool up in the holder right? or is it also a function of the cut?
not a function of the cut on this job
I need to draw up what I was talking about for you
sometimes it is...downcut does not splinter top edges
I know drawing up doesn't get you a working fix
yeah...I have been sketching tool holders
Im also thinking about a cartdrige spindle
not just a tool holder
what I really need is a colombo spindle though
that would solve all problems
I am so hp limited
how many hp are you using right now?
If I have 3 times the hp I go 3 times faster
not nrearly enough
well, this is an area I dont fully understand
except for drilling
Anyone know how to make an internal keyway within a cup on a lathe? Like what angles I should find on my shaper?
12,000 for that
you have a shaper?
A-L-P-H-A : I love my shaper :)
gezr... got pictures of your shaper? angles? measurements?
A-L-P-H-A : its a atlas 7 inch
les : yeah I guess you need to go up on everything
A-L-P-H-A : I dont guess I know what a cup is? are wanting to make a keyway on the inside of a bore,
a 24000 rpm 400 hz colombo is what I need
gezr, yes. the inside of a bore. But the bore is not all the way through.
no coulldn't be
A-L-P-H-A : do you have the straight tool? there is some photos on the web that shows a guy who made a special tool?
never heard of a straight tool.
A-L-P-H-A : as in it bolts onto the clapper and sticks out much like a pecker, with the tool bit sticking down or whatever angle you want it to be in
gezr, you don't happened to have an url.
A-L-P-H-A im looking, found you a good faq, that I use if your not a shaper master already?
[16:19:16] <gezr> http://home.att.net/~kayfisher/shaper_faq.html
gezr, the bore is only 29mm dia.
yeah, that wont be a problem
[16:20:18] <gezr> http://www.jamesriser.com/Machinery/AtlasShaper/AtlasShaper.html
mine looks like that, but ugly
there is the picture of the cutter on that page
err... I thought a shaper wsa something else.
you mean milling machine?
gezr. I have a milling attachment I could use on my lathe, that would act like a shaper.
oh oh oh okay
alrighty, this will be wicked on your machine but its the only way to get a straight keyway
but I'm trying to get out a 3mm or was it 4mm groove on the internal dia.
how wide and how deep?
3mm wide, 3mm depth?
someone else said I could use a makeshift broach, and use the ways wtih a chisel like tool to scrap out the keyway.
I think it maybe 4mm x 2mm.
thats what im going to show you
4mm wide, 2 deep, 3 deep.
I'm gonna photo this first... sec.
your going to need to use your 4 jaw chuck to hold a square bit, ground to the shape your going to be broaching, Ive made square holes this way using the c axis on a lathe to fix poisition of the spindle and then used the turret like a press break to knotch out the groove
or better yet, you can keep the part in your chuck, and hold the bit in the milling attatchment
doesnt really matter
whatever is easier for you
get things lined up, and take very small passes, dont use the rack and stuff to move the slide, too much torque placed on those parts, put your hand behind the carrage and push from there
use a broom stick or something to assist you if you need more power
but DONT use the little gears and stuff, you just want to use the machine's base/slide to carry the load
if your milling attatchment atatches ontop of your (I cant think of whats its called) use it to set the angle so that its not quite 90deg to parallel with direction of cut, that way, a 2mm movement on that screw moves the tool deeper iinto the groove, .002mm or so
err... could you repost everything from my last message?
computer frooze, after I put my flash card in.
no big deal, :)
tell you what, we can start over :)
my milling attachment is able to pivot, and has height control. So I can mill from top, side, front as well.
do you have a boaring bar that holds a tool bit?
at 90' and 45'
has like a square hole in it right?
holds a 3/16 HSS bit.
square bits yes.
you slide the bit into the hole and on and on?
get that bar so its in your hand now
have you already ground your bit?
no, I haven't ground the bit.
and can you lock the position of your lathe spindle?
yes. it's indexable, with locking pins on the back of the spindle.
get your boaring bar and put a bit in it, im going to describe how its ground
im going to imagine that the bar and bit sorta form this ======//= with the bar being the == and the square bit sticking out much like //
yeah, it sticks out at like 45 degrees. if I flip the tool 180... There's another slot to make it work at 90degrees.
okay, If i was good at cad I could draw it up really quick let me try that okay?
You can send DXF, DWG files if you want. Either are fine.
give me a few minutes
* anonimasu is writing software for the plc :)
Alpha1125 is now known as A-L-P-H-A
A-L-P-H-A it should be there
let me know if its too retarded looking, I can always get some crayons out,
I spent some cash to upgrade my turbocad ive had various versions of it, since the early 90's, Im still not good with it
A-L-P-H-A : do you sorta see how your going to grind that?
you want it to be like a chissle edge your going to move the part under
making very small cuts and just scrapping away a bit at a time
do NOT use the handwheel to advance the cross slide, use your hand or a stick behind the saddle
I still haven't been able to recieve the file.
I mean saddle where I put cross slide
it may be getting chewed on by spam filters
and virus stuff
it will be there :)
yikes, still not here... I think it got lost.
did you get the file?
no... it's gone to the digital abyss
but you got the email?
no, no email.
heh I hope this 1500$ plc dosent burn ^_^
here's some pictures, for kicks... www.lloydleung.com/EMC
a-l-p-h-a: that looks nice
oih its in brass
yeah, it's tool brass.
you get that file?
that bore is exactly 29.00mm. :) I was really happy about that.
put the bar once you have your tool ground in your tool holder, keep the part in the chuck
indicte the tool so that it is parallell to the machine
set it so that the middle of the tool bit is on the lathe center height
cool! I understand.
so a 45degree rake, witha 7degree follow thru.
then right a program to move the tool out .01mm with each stoke,....out, stroke to depth, in, retract, move out .01mm
oh I forgot the front
you should first boor a ring groove in the back of your bore so that the tool has a relief to enter
just 7 on the front as well
just a groove or something that as the metal forms it breaks off at the back of the keyway
as to not put more and more pressure on the tool
it doesnt have to be full dpeth does it?
if not, then you can since your cnc, make the path go deep then pull out
and do it in a very fast feed
even the cut
I was just gonna round up.
no it doesn't have to go full depth.
g0 z-4.;g0x(size of bore)z-4.5
something like that
yeah, I understand... just like round up as I need the end of the pass.
so position the tool g0 x29.01; g0 z-4.;g0z-4.x28.5;
the damn setscrew for the bit seems to be jammed. :(
ive done this in 35Rc 4140 at 100ipm
dont strip it, hit the back of the tool with a hammer to move it
your going to shave your keyway
little by little
dont have your tool sticking out too far
try to keep your ridigity way up
and use an oil
in your 037 img, thats almost there
cool. I just need to use a vise to get some leverage.
you see where your arrow line is that describes the bit?
wack that angle off so that its sorta parallel with the bar :)
I just flipped the bit.
need to grind that edge a little bit.
dont forget to relieve the cutting edges
the relief isn' tthere.
and just go easy on it,
try it on a test piece
yeah, cup of water beside me too... shave slow.
gezr, thanks for the help.
not water, use oil
oil to cool?
and to lubricate
any cooking oil will work, or real oil
I meant grinding the HSS.
oh yeah water
you cant get hss too hot, you can, if you turn it all cherry red
I have oil/water solution i use as coolant.
oh that will work
hss when its too hot to hold just dip in water, your not going to change it
okay... off to try this... well... write some gcode first for myself.
if you can use a sub program, much easier
I dont know much about what emc likes or doesnt like
I was going to... write one pass, and then do it over and over again.
I acutally still use turbocnc.
can you use macro programs?
if you can thats the way to do it :)
it can, in version 4.
I still use 3.24a... though I did beta test 4 for a while.
just try it on a practice piece, first
left over brass or whatever
just offset it in your chuck, so you can do it on the outside of the part
keep your speeds high
whats your max ipm you think?
if its under 100 use all rapids
my max is SLOW.
then use g0
let me check my rates... brb
this is not the best thing for a machine
I could probably tinker with it to get the speeds a little hight... maybe 600-750mm/min
just use what you have
dont try to tear up your equipment
patience is a tough skill
part in chuck, tool in tool holder, tool center matches center height of machine
program to take little cuts
you could probably do it in one wack, if you had horse power :)
but just keep it simple
not on a 2mm pitch leadscrew.
one wack would be a lot, maybe 6 would be ideal
off to attempt to grind this hss bit. :)
gezr, thanks for the help...
more reliefe wont hurt
I'll photo what i've got in the end. :)
just keep the very top or accual cuting edge the right size
is paul hiding
I dont know dave-e
that looks as bad as it sounded
dave-e : I dont know if he is hidding :)
you get to take your chances
its about 6pm for him maybe he is having dinner
that could be...or tea
he tends to go to tea later than traditional
gezr... where are you?
southeastern wa state
80 km e of mt st. helens
not so cool
was here when it blew...
i bet its beautiful over there
there was this funny snow falling out of the sky...only it didn't melt
we are the dry side of the state...high desert
still pretty to me
Im surounded by pine forests
and rivers and streams and lakes
the valleys here are irrigated....so we grow apples, hops, etc
grapes...wine and other
* paul_c has just got in from town.
still trying to bring up a decent sized mill... Mazak V5
thanks to a recommendation from Les to try newstgmod.o the stg1 card homes rather nicely
* paul_c is trying to decide which flight to book for next week.
Oh, you mean Bath? :-)
we finally got enough snow to open the ski areas
Bath is no where near the coast !
paul_c: the one that gets you there :)
go give tbl a bad time
drive north, and...
we're only 1300 mi or so
can do that in two days
* anonimasu yawns
hm, time to test this out
paul_c: alaska in three
true...nope...Alcan takes a week or so
got the plc to count the spindle rpm now
Oooo... I get to visit Canada ;}
be sure to pack your LONNNNG johns
got me a beaver to wear.
no comment ...
thats a start
gotta run...lots of other stuff to try to make work.
alright... the tool is ground, and looks to be working. :)
now to work the code out.
paul_c: the gcode editor from K menu is not working, does something need a setup ?
slomo: Noted - Will check on it this evening.
ok, also whats the icon something about lp? cp? something
[17:57:20] <paul_c> http://www.caving-supplies.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/18005||~%40c~%40b~Beaver|0|user|1,0,0,1|10
hrrmmm... need to cut'n'paste that link..
have to keep that nomenclature in mind next time i refer to a beaver
cp1 is a "conversational programming" module that spits out g-code for EMC.
it's not so great out here!
it was hot yesterday
not to sure thats working as well, what's it supposed to bring up ?
and im sick with some bug that is going around
damn brits messed up the flu shots!
i blame paul!
* paul_c notes to pack some unusual infections for tbl
i'm doing some testing of my setup, using the progs on pico sys homepage
circles are coming out flat on two sides
the trashman came and took my trash away
It's going to be a hectic couple of days...
err, dont know why I had to ask that
gotta go over to Lil' Sis and finish her kitchen tomorrow...
that sounds fun :)
then squash a few bugs with the emc.deb and build a new CD.
and then get to Heathrow middle of the week.
i have to go buy pans and some bench type stuff for my shop
I have zero desk or working space
you are busy for sure
gotta book cars, motels, pack....
and I just know US.gov is going to be a pain in the butt.
gotta go - Out to lunch tonight.
just make sure Cat Stevens isnt on the flight :)
usef islam or something is his new name, I like his old music, I have most of his old albums :)
I have to go and make the wife happy now, gonna buy something that hopefully a thief wont up and steel yet at the same time be valuable
if we ever decide to have children,they can fight over them later :)
I dont expect pans to ever fade from our world
A-L-P-H-A : how is it comming?
ill be back later on, hope its cutting like it should
something new about EMC Fest ?
I haven't heard anything
gezr. :) SWEET! Finished
not the prettiest thing... but worked. :)
fit is snug... but the key isn't tight... I over sized a little... but I'm gonna be holding it down with a set screw anyways... so I'm not too worried about it.
I ended up grinding hss to get the profile I needed, case the 3/16 wasn't strong enough, and snapped... and I ran out... so HSS to the rescue.
good so it worked?
gezr, yeah. :) Thanks, I don't think I would have the confidence to do it without your guidance.
I've also been putting off making this part for, oh... 3+ months.
yeah down in the bottom you should have cut a groove as deep as the keyway, so that the tool didnt have to push against the shoulder
did your machine enjoy making those cuts?
it didn't have an issue... but ended up doing it manually... I took the belts off my handles, and used the handles manually... it seems much easier, and actually I think faster.
plus I was able to fine tune it.
I used the CNC to rough it out... and then manually shaved the sides.
and now I got a blister on my thumb
next one you have to do will be much better :)
it looks great
the part needs a little oil to get it onto the shaft... as the tolerance is super super tight. :) which I'm happy about.
whats it for?
it's an adapter/spiggot for my worm gear.
you make the worm gear your self?
I bought that from Boston Gearworks for $65CDN with taxes... with a steel worm.
I should have a working gear hobb in a year or so
its way down on my list of need to do things
[19:58:27] <A-L-P-H-A> http://lloydleung.com/cpg132/displayimage.php?album=random&cat=0&pos=-1
gear hobbing is the only machining process I havent learned, ive done a few gears at home but they were just im gonna try this sort of things
yeah, I saw someone's gear hobbing... I understand the concept... but since I don't have a thread cutting attachment on my lathe I can't cut accurate threads... this lathe is only CNCed XYZ.
can you control your spindle speed to within a speed?
well whats the worm and worm gear thing gonna be for?
I have a rheostat to a DC Servo.
controlling the spindle position on the lathe. I'm going to be changing the Spindle drive belt pully with this adapter/worm gear...
to give you a 4th axis basically?
how many teeth is the gear?
looks like either a 90 or more
[20:03:00] <A-L-P-H-A> http://www.lloydleung.com/?p=15#more-15
my gallery screwed up in my blog... oh ohwell. :)
looks sharp, should be interesting :)
I've got a rotary table... which I could build a bracket for, and make into a 4th axis... but I figured... why? [plus it's a crappy made in India table from HarbourFreight]
ive spent many hours eyeballing one of those
but never made the purchase
im going to make my own unit also
you know what you could do
hahaha. :) This is awesome.
I just pressfit the worm onto the spiggot.
I was thinking I needed to drill an extra setscrew or something... but it won't more.
I had to put half my weight onto it to get it on.
you will need one set screw or braze them together
that worm/wheel combo will be able to toss out some force
this worm bronze, and the adapter is brass...
I can still braze them together? I'll just do it the easy way... set screw them together.
I forgot to drill/tap set screws on the spiggot.
WOW... it's 3:11pm already?
get you a glass of ice water fill it nearly to the top, set the assemble ontop of the galss, so that the wheel holds the spiggot in the ice water, let it sit like that for a while, then run the wheel under hot water in the sink, so that the hot doesnt touch the cold, and them remove the assembly
or just put ice in the spiggot's cup
that way you will retain as much of the original surface as you possiable can, instead of just down out right pressing htem apart
dont forget to make a flat on the area where the set screw will be holding :)
I think I'm going to leave them together, and just drill a hole throw two or three of the arms, and put some socket hex head cap screws in. [drill for tap size] [drill arm to accomate screw] [tap].
* anonimasu yawns
the code for the plc worked nicely
I just need a sensor mount
yeah, your not planning on leaving the worm engaged when its under normal power do you?
and the serial coommunications stuff...
gezr, no. This part comes on/off only when needed. it goes where that timing belt pully is shown. So I can only drive it when I have the spindle motor pully off.
hmm... now... #8, #10, 1/4-20, 1/4-28. Or Metric... [which I don't have much of]
just dont mess your wheel up
* anonimasu loves he's vertex rotary table
altough I need a chuck adapter for it
paul_c: have some problems booting the new BDI 4.08 on my ols P1 system. It reboots all the time after extracting initrd.ing. Any ideas what I can do ???
now, that part is 100% finished.
set screws for the actual adapter now.
* anonimasu yawns
not too much today
I dont know, im cleaning up my shop,
your shop what?s shop have you!?
just my little garrage, thats all, others have been busy with other thigns today
everyonce in a while something is talked about
you know greenday
if your talking about the band yeah I do