getting rid of Y in COORDINATES got rid of it on the display, and the home icons appear next to the proper items now
resetting the interp when you switch from manual to auto (or MDI), is that per some spec, or because it gets around some horrible complexity, or just because?
its quite annoying when you are running the spindle to touch off, and as soon as you touch off the machine stops
usually the tool is still touching the work, and I don't like that
(this is a rough touchoff, where you jog until you get a chip)
I've had that battle before, and others argue for the behavior
I agree I don't want the spindle to turn off
I want to MDI S1000 M3, and then set my jog speed low and use continuous jog to do a facing cut
also related to spindle - M3S0 (or M3 with no S at all, so its still at its default value of 0) should still command spindle on
I think that's a spec issue
it is, jepler said its in the spec
(and I don't care one way or the other)
I talked to ray about it, he thinks most controls allow M3S0 and do what I expect
I think (he agrees) this is a place where NGC has it wrong
when you fix it, there's a place in the documentation that lists where we depart from ngc behavior (and why)
darn, how'd I step into that
whee, 42 -> 62 degrees in a half hour
no, new heater
oops - I thought you meant outside temps
thats the 7.5kw?
ok, thats weird
start up machine, hit home on x and y, both displays read zero
f5 to get to MDI
G0X-4 (trying to get the tool out of the way so I can drill)
it moves about an inch and half and stops with the display reading -1.77 something
X-3, it moves forward, and stops at -0.77 something
my home offsets and such are all zero (home vel is zero, I have no switch)
is MDI working in some other coord system than the one being displayed?
maybe display is set to absolute (in the menu)
it should be relative
switching from "machine position" to "relative position" does nothing
offsets should be zero, all I did was power up and hit home
I didn't do that, are you suggesting that I MDI it and see what happens?
g92.1 shows in the "active codes" box
wait, it did have an effect
numbers didn't change, and machine didn't move, but when I did X0, it went to zero, not something.77
is your var file writable?
chili is almost done.... I better stir it before it sticks - back after dinner
* cradek refuses to calculate how much time it took to make those, per T-nut
consider it practice
well they're great T-nuts
you need to make lots at once
(even if you don't need them)
* jmkasunich wonders how they drilled the thru-tool coolant hole in this drawbar
0.085 dia x 9" long
* fenn wonders why the hole is so small
I made 8, twice as many as I'll ever use
no wonder why it took twice as long
sigh. my left monitor just died
fenn: the bar is only 6mm OD, and threaded M6 x 1 which means the thread root dia is about 0.190
and it has 132 bellville washers trying to stretch it
are those washers "parallel" or "series" ?
must be parallel given the length, I guess
66 series sets of 2 in parallel
heh - I just ran across the business for that Mongolian Grill we went to in Peoria
"Flat Top Grill"
that was pretty good
apparently they make small steel tubing in a continuous process by tig welding and then drawing over a mandrel
not quite sure what "plug drawn" means
"A technological process limitation exists as average wall sizes approach 2mm"
the limit is for thicker then 2, or thinner?
it must be thinner than 2
though i dont know why, seems like you could just pierce a big fat cylinder and then draw it down like wire
I love working with quality stuff
the bearing retainer ring threads on
there are three setscrews that seem to bear on the threads
yeah i've seen that
on a mt2 socket spindle i bought on ebay :)
take it off, and you have to look at the inside of the threads _very_ closely to see the plugs that are in the setscrew holes and were threaded at the same time as the ring
oh, on mine, the ring has a flexture cut into it, which the setscrew presses on
neat, if you get the angles right, you can hold a plug at a certain location in the tube you're drawing, without any mandrel to hold it still
then you can draw down an entire coil of tubing
like choking a snake that swallowed an egg
jepler: how's emc now that you're a user?
I'm finding a few quirks
fenn_ is now known as fenn
jmkasunich: that always happens... I bet we all see different quirks, which is good.
wish I had a 7/16 dowel pin.
actually I wish I had one (or two) of each size of dowel pin. it seems like the big ones (above .375) can only be had in boxes of 100 at great cost
actually I wish I had a set of gage pins.
and a pony.
the 7/16 I wish I had would be shortish
mcmaster has 7/16 x 1" at 5.83 for a box of 10
they have "pull out" ones (with a threaded hole in them) for $1.25 each - more per pin, but you can buy 1
aren't those tapered?
interesting, I might do that when I order from them next
go to mcmaster, search for dowel pin, select steel, select diameter
(their site isnt' IRC friendly, can't post URLs)
yeah I remember trying that...
they are always my first choice for fasteners and other such parts
often I can use drill bits for stuff like this (measuring distance between holes for instance)
other places might be a bit cheaper, but mcmaster has the selection and the delivery is great (I get it next day, cause there is a warehouse near me)
wow, next day would be nice. lots of stuff takes 3-4 days (ground) to get here
thats cause you live in the middle of nowhere
I'm pretty sure I'm somewhere
any progress on getting a spindle encoder going?
thats a bit down the road
jogwheel and quill motor first
ah, you want to mill
oh, and home switches
the quill has one
I want to mount one for the table
I sure need home switches too. but what a pain to do
not going to bother for the saddle - it would be hard to home to either end on the lathe
I want screw error comp
yeah it does you very little good
lathe Z never has the same limits - they're not very useful
but lathe X really really wants a home switch
I made my 2nd CNCd part today
what is it?
a stepped washer for taking apart these spindles
fits over the nose, and a modified bolt goes thru it to engage the drawbar
put it in the drill press, use the press to compress the spring, tighten the bolt
and the spring load is held by the bolt while I push out the cross pin
then back in the press, take the load with the press, undo the bolt, and gradually release the load to get the drawbar out
I should put the bathroom scale on the drill press table and see what the drawbar load is
Guest226 is now known as skunkworks
Just this once .. here's the log: http://www.linuxcnc.org/irc/irc.freenode.net:6667/emcdevel/2007-12-23.txt