rayh_away is now known as rayh
hi there Ray
Hey. how you doing this evening?
trying to remember how to use CADMax
took me three hours to blow snow out the main drive way.
I'm a bit sore.
heh - it was around 45 here today, no snow left to blow
what is cadmax?
inexpensive Windows-based parametric CAD package
[00:44:43] <SWPadnos> http://www.cadmax.com/
Wait a couple days.
heh - OK. just in time for the weekend ;)
okay. never heard of it.
My all time favorite MS CAD package was easycad.
it's got features that are pretty close to SolidWorks (less the sheet metal stuff), not quite as polished, but only $300
I like it
I have to have a parametric modeller - I make too many mistakes
do you know a source for both pulleys and belts in GT2 profile?
I seem to find one or the other a lot
Is that the double sided stuff?
nope - just has very good power transfer efficiency, and doesn't slip or cog at all
the gear tooth profile is basically round, like an HTD pulley
I don't know anything about it then.
but the belt is kind of a cross between XL and HTD - the bottom is cut off, leaving room for crap in the pulley without it affecting the belt (like popping it off the pulley)
McMaster shows round toothed
yep -HTD, I think
hmm - they do have PowerGrip GT style - I wonder if that's the same
it's pretty amazing that I can spend as much on plleys as others spend on their mills :)
And I'm wanting a pair of worm and worm wheels for a scara robot.
that's the problem with buying used high end stuff - maintenance kills you
the right angle gear reducer for my bandsaw is a $900 part
But then it is high end
I live with the oil leaking out
I can cut large blocks of stell with ease, so there is a plus
What I was looking at was 100/1 ratio and about 200 a pair.
And that makes a big difference.
ok. this gearbox is only 10:1 ratio, but 1HP input power
3/4 inch shaft on the input, 1-1/8 on the output
Okay. If you need a custom geer quote try rush gears.
the amazing thing is, when I opened it up to clear out the oil of the ages, the gears looked perfectly new and shiny, and this saw is probably from the 1940s
Okay. Why you spec a new one?
I'll check them out
well - it does leak
there's a hole that may be intentional, and oil comes a-bubbling out when I run the saw
no - those are fine
Then there is just to much of the wrong kind of oil in there.
I think there may be a small rubber plug missing or something. this may be for bleeding out air when you add oil
Worms are pretty finicky
yep - it's heavy duty gear oil in there
about like cold molasses
talk to roltek the next time you catch him on
ok - he's a gear guy?
Made all the transmissions for K&T.
oh - I guess he is a gear guy ;)
builds nascar transmissions now.
do you know how rush gear's pricing is?
High but for custom gears they are the best.
If you can find a stock item one a shelf someplace that will usually cost less.
ok - tahnks. not that I actually measured anything when I had that box apart, but it's good to know
(also, as I said, the gears were amazingly well preserved)
May not be a gear problem at all.
Is there a lot of lash?
nope - the saw works - I was just concerned about the oil hole. I don't want to order a replacement from Dake to see
not that backlash matters for a bandsaw anyway
It would be an indication of wear in the worm.
Or alignment problems.
hmmm - let me go check
sometimes these have eccentric shafts or bearings or bearing holders.
I can't detect any backlash in the reducer, but it would be hard to detect by hand at 10:1
the saw actually has 3 sets of gear reduction. the V-belt sheaves from motor to gear reducer, right-angle reducer (10:1), and then the output of that has a small gear that drives the huge saw pulley
Got to get the surface feet per minute down.
the blade pulleys are about 24" across, so it needs a lot of reduction
maybe a little less, like 20-22"
Okay. That large size should make blades last longer.
I hope so.
plus I don't use it too often, so they should last a looooong time :)
Right unless you drag all the teeth off of em.
I bought a Johnson model K (or A?) on eBay, only it turned out to bea much larger model J
it cuts through anodized aluminum like butter
hmm - maybe it was supposed to be a model B - the 300 pound one
I've serviced quite a few of the k model. Nice units.
those are the 300 pound ones?
Seems like about that
ok - that's the one I thought I was buying, but It was the bigger one instead (heck of a deal, I think - $300 for an 11x18 or 11x14 throat)
They had hydraulic lift and repeat so you could cut whole bars unattended.
I'm thinking of adding that to mine
I have a small VFD fro speed adjustents, and I'm thinking that just a stop bar is good enough for cutting quantities of same-length parts
Right. That's how these did it.
lift ram, unclamp, push until you hit the stop, clamp, start motor, drive down at feed rate (or let the hydraulic cylinder do it)
The stop was spring loaded so it tripped a limit.
yep - that would work
or a current trip
Yes it was the same hyd cylinder for both directions.
my lift cylinder is having trouble
there was a solenoid that routed the oil
I've replaced the O-rings, but it still won't hold the ram up
those are another very expensive part from Dake
Is there a solenoid in the lift circuit?
there is no lift circuit :)
it's a manually operated saw
but I might CNC it some day
So you hand raise the head
then set the down speed using a valve?
yep - you're supposed to raise the head by hand, then turn the cylinder control all the way one direction
yep - the same valve
auto shut-off though (in a NEMA 12 box now)
bypass when you lift and regulate on the way down.
it's got a return line, so I think lifting is possible even with it "locked" (I could be wrong about that)
of course, mine is never locked right now, so I can always lift it
I should look at that valve again
Getting the hydraulic to work is the most difficult part.
for manual or CNC?
You may find that the leaking rather than holding is a valve problem
I'm not sure the cylinder is leaking - I'll have to look at it again
I did rebuild it a while ago, but that was the first time I'd ever seen a hydraulic cylinder taken apart
But it won't hold the head up for very long?
so I might have goofed
very long being about 1 microsecond ;)
hmmm - let me fiddle with it for a minute - I could be wrong about this
It could also be the bypass valve not seating properly to hold.
ok - the valve handle turns easily, no drips or visible leaks when I exercise the head
nothing moves in the return line though, and cahnging the valve setting has no apparent effect on the fall speed
so it looks like i need to take the cylinder apart again (or check that the 3 threaded rods are tightened correctly)
the filler cup on top still has oil in it as well
Is that valve a multiturn one with a bent handle sticking up?
no - it has the bent handle sticking up, but it's only like a half turn (1 turn at the most) of usable range
It's been a while now but I thought that was a multiturn device.
what I get for tinking eh!
this one could be different
the saw has a serial number below 10000
like 9342 or something
The ones I worked on were < 500
wow - cool
on the model K or the model J?
(K might have come after J, but I'm not sure)
In some ways they worked better than the Hydmech that replaced them
Put 3 plc's in that and replaced several other parts.
I'd just go for the G-Rex - that's probably a perfect use for it in standalone mode
hmmm - glad I thought of that
That's it. Or you can get a $99 brick from automation direct.
ship it to me and I'll program it for you.
well - Mariss sent me a G-rex, so Imight as well use it :)
though I spent the money on the Rabbit development kit instead ;)
That sounds like a screw up someplace.
gotta run. Nice talking with you.
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SWPadnos is now known as SWP_Away