#linuxcnc | Logs for 2013-08-13

[00:01:24] <Nick001-Shop> anything else to delete that you can see right off?
[00:02:19] <cradek> that'll affect fpr but not threading, which uses the spindle POSITION
[00:03:43] <andypugh> Goodnight chaps. Good luck with the threading Nick001
[00:03:50] <cradek> g'night andy
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[00:05:49] <andypugh> Ah, just a quicky. There are some motion pins here: http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html/man/man9/motion.9.html listed as "debug only, likely to be removed" . At least some of them almost certainly want to be permanentised, for example joint-vel-cmd for FF1 calculations in PID.
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[00:07:23] <cradek> go to bed dude
[00:07:40] <cradek> (I've never seen us remove any pins like that)
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[00:17:55] <Nick001-Shop> Ok - it treads except backwards - something wrong in the g76 line. Will have to check out if it changed fpr settings which need to be corrected anyway. Thanks for the help and I'll be back at it tomorrow. Time to go home.
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[00:19:06] <Nick001-Shop> threads
[00:19:13] <cradek> in sim, I noticed it cuts an inside thread
[00:24:55] <Nick001-Shop> it also finishes in the -z position rather than the z0.200 position
[00:26:24] <Nick001-Shop> also, how do I get into sim mode on the machine computer without disturbing anything?
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[00:42:00] <NickParker> sweet, i got an old matrox card off an IT friend. stopping by later this week.
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[01:28:19] <os1r1s> I'm planning to cut grooves with a .062" carbide grooving tool in a 3/4 inch piece of 6061 on a sherline lathe. The groove is going to be .1" deep. Does anyone have any suggestions on feeds/speeds?
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[04:02:32] <NickATX> what program can I use for cnc with Mac iOS ???
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[04:36:57] <Xfriend> who have a cnc machine running on Mac ???
[04:37:41] <CaptHindsight> Mac or iPhone/pad?
[04:37:55] <Xfriend> iOS
[04:43:33] <Xfriend> Mac
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[04:57:03] <Xfriend> who have a cnc machine running on Mac ???
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[05:40:51] <CaptHindsight> pcw_home: http://linuxgizmos.com/open-odroid-sbc-steps-up-to-samsung-exynos-octa/ $149
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[09:58:29] <mr_new> hi there
[09:59:25] <mr_new> is it possible, to use a mesa card and just a h bridge for controlling a brush dc motor with closed loop?
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[12:19:01] <jdh> I love mcmaster
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[13:16:52] <PetefromTn> MMMmmmoring!
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[13:30:07] <skunkworks> it's a beautiful day in the neighborhood...
[13:30:19] <skunkworks> (acutally is - cool and sunny)
[13:32:29] <PetefromTn> Not here it has been raining and overcast for days now...
[13:33:01] <PetefromTn> Been wanting to mow the lawn but it is so wet I cannot without a miserably clumpy painstaking slow time of it.
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[14:08:01] <aksr> hi, general lathe question: my power feed has gun-like fail-safe protection, i'm not sure how to remove it
[14:08:47] <aksr> (i'm not sure what's its proper name)
[14:08:48] <archivist> why would you remove it
[14:09:09] <aksr> archivist: power feed is stucked
[14:09:25] <archivist> hint is is exceedingly useful when you set the stops correctly
[14:09:59] <archivist> fix the faults rather than remove a useful facility
[14:11:03] <aksr> archivist: some pieces of metal caused all of this
[14:11:09] <aksr> ..i need to clean it
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[14:11:14] <aksr> completely ...
[14:11:45] <aksr> archivist: can you picture what kind of fail safe mechanism is this?
[14:12:08] <archivist> not without seeing
[14:12:09] * aksr tries to find a picture, but isn't sure of its proper name
[14:12:58] <archivist> I had to get other people to make some parts for me before I could screw cut with my lathe
[14:13:27] <aksr> archivist: i'm new to all of this
[14:13:31] <aksr> i just bought it
[14:13:38] <aksr> it's a fairly old one
[14:13:41] <jdh> a switch that turns off the motor? or a lever that disengages the drive nut?
[14:13:54] <archivist> mine is from the 1940's, well worn
[14:14:17] <aksr> archivist: i guess '60s (not sure, though..
[14:14:18] <archivist> self act can be a third mechanism
[14:14:40] <aksr> jdh: it's on the left side of power feed
[14:14:53] <aksr> it' isn't a lever nor a switch
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[14:15:04] <archivist> we dont yet know how many shafts are going through the apron
[14:16:01] <archivist> or is this is just a gearbox or clutch problem
[14:16:07] <archivist> is/if
[14:17:30] <aksr> jdh: it's a mechanism, for example: it cocks like a gun, if it's too hard to spin; also, it looks like revolver cylinder
[14:18:02] <aksr> (i'm not that good with a technical english to describe it more precisely)
[14:18:05] <aksr> :)
[14:18:22] <archivist> there are sprung loaded overload clutches
[14:18:24] <aksr> ..and that mechanism is on the far left end
[14:18:27] <JT-Shop> a photo might help in translation
[14:18:32] <aksr> archivist: yeah, something like that
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[14:18:55] <archivist> you dont disable for the safety of the lathe
[14:19:46] <aksr> archivist: you're right it has springs.. and it's settable
[14:19:57] <aksr> ..how much overload, etc...
[14:20:10] <aksr> JT-Shop: not there atm
[14:20:12] <aksr> :(
[14:20:16] <aksr> but you're right
[14:21:15] <archivist> you dont need the power feed while learning on a lathe
[14:22:19] <aksr> archivist: i need to fix it, i removed whole carriage
[14:22:37] <aksr> anyway, the fix is just to clean it
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[14:27:44] <aksr> this could be better explanation, read the post of a Doozer guy: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-56401.html
[14:28:14] <aksr> "..I thought of using a small Bimba air cylinder as a quick
[14:28:14] <aksr> release for the feed. Dennis is right about a rapid
[14:28:14] <aksr> withdrawal of the half nuts or feed clutch, else wear
[14:28:14] <aksr> will ensue. That is why I like the Nardini arrangement.
[14:28:25] <aksr> (sorry for the paste)
[14:29:10] <archivist> one of my lathe has automatic feed stops
[14:29:24] <aksr> ..on the second thought, this isn't good enough explanation
[14:29:39] <aksr> unfortunately, my digital camere isn't here atm
[14:29:40] <archivist> else you the human is supposed to do it
[14:29:42] <aksr> :(
[14:30:11] <aksr> archivist: it doesn't stops, it just 'clicks' if it's stucked
[14:30:24] <aksr> ..not to destroy internal parts...
[14:30:38] <archivist> my power feed is driven from a slot on the leadscrew not the thread on it
[14:31:07] <archivist> so you dont have a problem then
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[14:31:25] <aksr> archivist: you don't understand me, i'm sure of it
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[14:31:29] <archivist> other than learning its foibles
[14:31:33] <aksr> i have leadscrew and power feed
[14:31:38] <aksr> they're separate
[14:31:42] <archivist> that click is the overload
[14:31:58] <aksr> yes, that clicking is overload, and it's settable
[14:32:01] <archivist> or something broken
[14:32:29] <archivist> so adjust the overload to a sensible amount
[14:32:41] <aksr> i need to remove it, to remove the bar from the carriage; to clean it.
[14:32:51] <aksr> i mean the carriage
[14:33:23] <aksr> pieces of metal are stucked in the spiral cog
[14:33:30] <aksr> (i think)
[14:34:41] <archivist> on some machines you have to remove quite a lot to get stuff off and apart
[14:35:51] <aksr> archivist: i removed quite a lot, only power feed is left
[14:36:36] <archivist> remove end bearings, slide out
[14:37:09] <archivist> or remove overload as that splits the bar so it can be removed
[14:37:14] <aksr> already done that
[14:38:07] <aksr> just this fail safe revolver-cylinder-like mechanism is holdback to slide it
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[14:38:39] <aksr> it has one (or two pins) which i'm not sure how to remove
[14:39:28] <archivist> look for the smaller diameter end, use a pin punch on the smaller end
[14:40:01] <archivist> short sharp tap
[14:40:10] <aksr> archivist: already done that, but it's too hard
[14:40:16] <aksr> too too hard
[14:40:27] <aksr> so, i'm not sure is it one (or two)
[14:40:48] <archivist> worst case drill out and ream for new pins
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[14:40:59] <archivist> one pin per hole
[14:41:44] <jdh> my belts and pulleys I ordered from mcmaster yesterday afternoon are sitting on my front porch. $4.92 shipping.
[14:41:48] <aksr> it has two holes, one with bigger diameter, and one with a smaller; the both holes stand contra to each other
[14:41:59] <aksr> archivist: but i'
[14:43:40] <aksr> archivist: i punched pin again and again (throught smaller hole): i didn't get anywhere .. :(
[14:44:07] <archivist> http://www.listoftools.com/metal_cutting/reaming_operations/tapered_holes_and_pin_installation.html
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[14:45:57] <aksr> archivist: thank you, but i wish for more _elegant_ solution, drilling is my last resort
[14:46:16] <archivist> something that has been stuck in for 40 years, it will be a fight to remove
[14:46:35] <aksr> archivist: it's old, but very good looking
[14:46:47] <aksr> meaning, it shines :P
[14:47:01] <archivist> I have pin punches hammers drills and taper reamers to fix the mess after
[14:47:30] <aksr> archivist: my biggest problem is: i don't is it one or two pins
[14:48:12] <aksr> i was thinking: it should be one, because it shouldn't be non-removable
[14:48:22] <archivist> two pins have 4 visible holes
[14:48:43] <archivist> two holes = one pin
[14:48:48] <aksr> archivist: could it be that it was supposed to be non-removable?
[14:49:12] <aksr> hence two holes and two pines
[14:49:12] <archivist> nah, just tight after all this time
[14:49:23] <aksr> i must be pretty tight then
[14:49:29] <aksr> how sure are you?
[14:49:37] <aksr> 100%?
[14:49:40] <aksr> :)
[14:49:51] <JT-Shop> taper pin?
[14:50:05] <archivist> without pictures! you get what you payed for !
[14:50:11] <JT-Shop> lol
[14:50:31] <aksr> JT-Shop: i think
[14:50:54] <aksr> JT-Shop: since it's one hole smaller
[14:51:11] <aksr> s/it's/one is
[14:51:21] <archivist> shall we mention an overload that has partially sheared the pin making removal impossible without abuse
[14:51:26] <aksr> s/it's/one hole is :P
[14:51:45] <aksr> archivist: that could be the explanation
[14:51:55] <aksr> but hear me out:
[14:54:13] <aksr> yesterday, while power feed was still in the bearers, i tried to punch it out, but it was possible to punch it more inside through bigger hole, but not through the smaller one
[14:55:11] <archivist> so you jammed it in tighter!
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[14:56:05] <JT-Shop> yikes
[14:56:16] <aksr> ..also, while i was punching it through bigger hole, the (other or) other side of the pin didn't show any signs of punching
[14:56:26] <aksr> that'
[14:56:41] <aksr> that's the main conundrum for me..
[14:56:44] <archivist> probable already sheared
[14:57:05] <aksr> archivist: you mean broken?
[14:57:09] <aksr> in half?
[14:57:10] <archivist> yes
[14:57:23] <aksr> well, i had that theory two
[14:57:27] <aksr> :)
[14:57:31] <aksr> s/two/too
[14:57:40] <aksr> :)
[14:57:40] <archivist> and possible had a bade repair in the past with a short pin in one side
[14:58:02] <aksr> so, you sure it is not not-removable?
[14:58:47] <archivist> if the last person to repair had the shaft 180 degrees out when fitting a new pin the holes may not line up
[14:59:05] <aksr> archivist: i'm thinking that right now
[14:59:13] <aksr> what're u suggesting?
[14:59:28] <aksr> drilling?
[14:59:58] <JT-Shop> carefully
[14:59:59] <archivist> drill just deep enough so you can remove the shaft
[15:00:16] <aksr> archivist: which whole?
[15:00:18] <aksr> smaller?
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[15:00:22] <aksr> s/whole/hole
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[15:00:56] <archivist> both maybe, we have not seen pictures yet !
[15:01:27] <aksr> archivist: i know, sorry
[15:01:35] <aksr> but it isn't possible atm
[15:01:42] <aksr> (since my camera isn't here)
[15:02:08] <archivist> taper pin reamers are cheap enough to fix any slight drilling error
[15:02:17] <aksr> i was just hoping for a clean solution
[15:02:59] <archivist> that is clean if you do not touch the sides of the hole
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[15:03:41] <aksr> archivist: yeah, but maybe the holes doesn't line up
[15:04:16] <archivist> that is why you work from the outsides and done drill into the shaft yet
[15:04:22] <archivist> dont
[15:04:58] <aksr> i was hoping i won't have to
[15:04:58] <archivist> then treat the pin in the shaft as a second op after it is removed
[15:05:10] <aksr> second op?
[15:05:24] <archivist> drill or punch
[15:05:40] <aksr> ah
[15:05:41] <aksr> ;0
[15:06:43] <archivist> 1st op drill the ends of the pin/s (only outer depth) so you can get shaft out then 2nd op clear hole in shaft
[15:07:56] <kwallace> I just got here, but if the tapper pin sheared from an overload there would be three pieces and the pin can not be punched out until the three pieces are in alignment. Thinking more, if the pin is sheared the two shafts should come apart without removing the pin.
[15:08:12] <aksr> outer depth? can you elaborate further? archivist
[15:08:49] <archivist> http://www.listoftools.com/images/tapered_pin_installed_in_a_shaft_and_flange.png the cross hatched
[15:09:23] <aksr> kwallace: it isn't sheared, but maybe was sometime in the past
[15:10:28] <kwallace> Then maybe overload it back or all the way through?
[15:10:33] <aksr> archivist: ok, but i don't still understand what you mean by outer depth?
[15:11:15] <aksr> kwallace: carriage has a problem, shaft could turn around but it's very hard
[15:11:25] <archivist> one drill as fas as the shaft and no further
[15:11:29] <aksr> something is stucked in the cog somewhere in the carriage
[15:11:30] <archivist> far
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[15:12:02] <aksr> archivist: until i get to the shaft?
[15:12:10] <aksr> and then, other side as well, right?
[15:12:17] <archivist> yes
[15:12:21] <aksr> ;)
[15:12:28] <aksr> i'll try it ;)
[15:13:02] <archivist> so you end up with two thin tubes of taper pin that will easily shear off
[15:13:41] <aksr> archivist: so, i use smaller drill for both sides?
[15:14:14] <aksr> the smaller one is 6mm (metric)
[15:14:19] <archivist> the right size ish, it is a judgement call
[15:14:33] <aksr> you're right
[15:15:10] <aksr> ok, archivist, THANK YOU, i'll try something
[15:15:16] <aksr> ;)
[15:15:29] * aksr will report his findings
[15:15:33] <aksr> :)
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[15:18:20] <archivist> JT-Shop, by the way my comment works both ways for your tapping, your code should convert english to metric on a metric mill
[15:23:36] <JT-Shop> yes, if it was just thread pitch it would be a simple calcuation but calculating the nearest metric drill size would be too much work
[15:24:00] <JT-Shop> much easier to just update a few entries in the lookup table
[15:24:33] <JT-Shop> and I have no motivation to use metric drills...
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[15:59:57] * JT-Shop just drilled and tapped a bunch of holes with tap.py
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[16:05:43] <jdh> how small will you rigid tap?
[16:05:54] <jdh> I never did get that email from you yesterday.
[16:05:58] <JT-Shop> #6
[16:05:59] <cradek> I've done lots of 4-40
[16:06:46] <JT-Shop> tbird says it sent the email check your spam container
[16:07:06] <jdh> I did four 6-32s last night by hand. Snapped off the tap on teh last one when I switched to my left hand.
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[16:07:54] <JT-Shop> yuck, I look at my taps with a microscope before use and have not broken one yet
[16:08:42] <cradek> I try hard to tap holes as early as possible, so I can just start over if I break one
[16:09:00] <cradek> trying to save a part with a tap stuck in it is soul-crushing
[16:09:03] <JT-Shop> that's a good plan
[16:09:21] <cradek> throwing it out is so much nicer
[16:09:31] <jdh> the actual part had holes for 10-32. I was tapping a tooling plate to hold the real part.
[16:09:32] <JT-Shop> even worse if you have spend hours making a part then snap off a tap
[16:09:48] <cradek> but like you I almost never break them
[16:09:50] <JT-Shop> jdh: check your spam folder
[16:09:52] <Loetmichel> cradek: thats what EDM is invented for
[16:09:54] <archivist> I have had a couple edm'd out and save the part
[16:10:03] <archivist> saved
[16:10:06] <jdh> JT: nothing there.
[16:11:15] <Loetmichel> i even had ground a snapped M3 tap out of an aluminium block with a dremal and a 1,2mm TC mill bit diamond cut
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[16:11:34] <Loetmichel> you have to have a stady hand or a CNC mill, but it works ;-)
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[16:14:09] <jdh> is drilling usually spec'ed in IPS? Cut-2d uses IPM for feed/plunge for end mills. First time I generated a drill path, I didn't notice it was IPS.
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[16:20:40] <skunkworks> our drill press is ipr
[16:22:27] <cradek> I set the rpm at 50sfm and feed ALL drills at 4ipm
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[16:22:46] <cradek> I'm a conservative driller
[16:27:05] <CaptHindsight> jdh: that's what hand taps are supposed to do, snap off half off half way into the last hole :)
[16:29:00] <JT-Shop> cradek: both steel and aluminum?
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[16:30:01] <jdh> when cutting 'outside' profiles, I've been using existing internal holes, or adding holes, then bolting through those holes to a flat plate, then clamping the plate down. Is there an easier/better way?
[16:30:09] <cradek> JT-Shop: I do almost all aluminum. for steel I might drop to 3.
[16:30:44] <cradek> jdh: cut almost all the way through and then whack it with a hammer to dismount, then deburr it
[16:31:15] <JT-Shop> sometimes I leave a few tabs to hold the part to the parent, less to clean up
[16:31:32] <JT-Shop> if I have mounting holes I usually use them to hold the part
[16:31:52] <JT-Shop> cradek: that is conservative for sure
[16:32:05] <jdh> my method requires aligning and edge finding at least twice.
[16:32:12] <cradek> JT-Shop: I don't care about speed, I care more about getting holes that aren't oversized
[16:32:27] <cradek> seems like the low speed really helps it not wobble around
[16:33:25] <jdh> cradek: how much do you leave for almost-all-the-way cutting?
[16:34:17] <jdh> all the 6061 plate I've gotten seems to be 15-20 thou oversize
[16:34:25] <cradek> jdh: shoot for .010 inch
[16:34:58] <cradek> depends on the plate thickness. you want to not distort the part too much with the hammer...
[16:35:21] <cradek> thinner than 3/8 I probably wouldn't try this
[16:35:55] <Loetmichel> jdh: i use CA ;-)
[16:36:15] <jdh> Loetmichel: and cut through?
[16:36:18] <cradek> yeah for cutout, you'd want to zero to the table or fixture under the part, not the top surface
[16:36:24] <Loetmichel> yes
[16:36:55] <Loetmichel> my mounting plate is made of resin anyway, so i can cut in that without remorse
[16:37:05] <jdh> I have some 0.010 plastic shim stock. I've been putting that under the part to keep from cutting the mounting plate.
[16:38:25] <Loetmichel> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o53RsosYwGg
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[16:38:30] <DJ9DJ> namd
[16:38:37] <Loetmichel> just glued down on the plastic mount
[16:45:41] <CaptHindsight> anyone have a good source for diamond coring bits for granite <1"(25mm) dia and >4"long (100mm)?
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[17:10:03] <IchGuckLive> hi all B=
[17:10:06] <IchGuckLive> O.O
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[17:16:03] <NickParker> kwallace in here?
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[17:17:13] <IchGuckLive> hi ctbenergy
[17:17:22] <NickParker> you're on the list so i'll just leave this for you to find: Can you try and get the front panel off your shiz mill? I'm talking about the metal plate the E stop and other big buttons are on.
[17:17:36] <IchGuckLive> are you on green energy O.O
[17:18:10] <NickParker> I have a ground fault in my mill and I've traced it to the white wire with a green stripe which goes through conduit from the bottom side electronics box into the front panel, but my front panel screws are very stuck, so i can't find out what it is.
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[17:21:32] <IchGuckLive> ktchk: how is the weather is the strom still showering
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[17:24:14] <CaptHindsight> NickParker: almost every used machine I've ever gotten had ground tied to neutrals or swapped
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[17:31:33] <ktchk> IchGuckLive: yes stomy
[17:31:37] <ktchk> stormy
[17:33:49] <IchGuckLive> we have seen a powerfull system hedding your way
[17:35:34] <ktchk> IchGuckLive: now it is on no8 signal and will stop traffic in an hour
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[17:39:10] <kwallace> NickParker: What's up?
[17:41:15] <mozmck> CaptHindsight: most breaker boxes for house and shop that I've seen have the neutral tied to ground from the factory.
[17:42:00] <IchGuckLive> kwallace: nich got trouble with his front plate on the mill
[17:42:12] <IchGuckLive> nick par
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[17:43:32] <kwallace> None of my original wiring is intact, except for the changer panel.
[17:44:02] <CaptHindsight> mozmck: they are supposed to be tied together at the panel, not after the current protection and disconnect
[17:44:18] <skunkworks> bonded
[17:44:24] <mozmck> I see.
[17:44:34] <IchGuckLive> kwallace: thats why he ask you you already performed the transision
[17:44:53] <mozmck> Some I've seen have a bar that can be removed so I guess the ground can go directly to a ground rod.
[17:49:27] <CaptHindsight> neutrals are not grounds, even though they do get tied together at one point
[17:49:47] <NickParker> alright, looks like i'm drilling some screws tonight then.
[17:50:16] <IchGuckLive> im off by
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[17:51:08] <NickParker> and the mill definitely has a ground fault, it trips GFCI if we connect the neutral on our 3 phase to neutral
[17:51:49] <NickParker> plus, there's continuity between the black wire on my 120 and the body of the machine that only runs through this tiny white and green wire into the front panel
[17:52:01] <NickParker> if they were intentionally connected it would be done in a much less roundabout way
[17:53:22] <CaptHindsight> if your machine is not grounded it's now possible to have the body at 120V
[17:53:43] <CaptHindsight> that's why grounds are not neutrals
[17:54:45] <NickParker> oh yeah, i had the body at 120v once when i had my 120 plugged in backwards.
[17:54:55] <NickParker> i discovered this by touching it while barefoot haha
[17:56:06] <CaptHindsight> there have been cases where the grounds on the main transformers feeding a building were corroded and floating and the service was not grounded so there was a >10000V potential between a water pipe (or other actual ground) and neutral
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[18:06:10] <kwallace> NickParker: Is this the panel (black one, on the left)? http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Shizuoka/00008-1a.jpg
[18:06:38] <NickParker> yep
[18:07:36] <NickParker> the wire that's connected to the body of the machine is white with a thin green stripe and comes in a conduit on the back. Don't worry about it though, I'm just going to drill out the screws on mine.
[18:08:05] <kwallace> I would tend to tap the screw heads with a piece of aluminum before drilling.
[18:08:34] <NickParker> I already tried getting them from the side with a flathead screwdriver and a rubber mallet
[18:09:01] <NickParker> they're caked in grease and chips that have solidified over 30 odd years. Absolutely will not budge
[18:09:22] <NickParker> I might try putting dry ice or liquid nitrogen to them... gotta see if my friend is in town
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[18:10:17] <CaptHindsight> 0.01oz of C4 on each?
[18:11:18] <archivist> I use a hard pin punch and hammer for tight screws
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[18:12:25] <archivist> getting better at it, this last week I rescued something that was in the garden in the rain
[18:12:43] <CaptHindsight> http://images.craigslist.org/00J0J_b6esZTUVhQa_600x450.jpg are these made to insure of wobble in 2-axis when drilling?
[18:14:13] <archivist> made as cheap as possible, the only specification the work to is "drill holes"
[18:18:16] <kwallace> My Shiz front panel screws always give a strong pop when I loosen them, so I pretty much leave them loose.
[18:19:34] <archivist> NickParker, the pin punch method, does a few things to help the release of the screw, thins the head/washer, the shock going down the thread is unsticking the screw from the casting/nut and lastly is closing up the burs on the slot
[18:20:12] <archivist> if I can tap the head sideways even better
[18:24:25] <kwallace> I have a fancier version of this, which might work. http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html , but the screws I have used mine on had soft heads and the socket stripped out.
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[18:34:25] <kwallace> In case someone has a satellite that needs launching: http://www.nasa.gov/press/2013/august/nasa-announces-next-opportunity-for-cubesat-space-missions/#.UgpwfNcRj5A
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[18:41:04] <archivist> kwallace, I used an impact driver after the punch freeing
[18:41:50] <archivist> then the punch again after to fix up the burs from that
[18:43:37] <archivist> pictures in a few secs
[18:49:19] <archivist> so rusted solid to http://www.collection.archivist.info/archive/DJCPD/PD/2013/2013_08_13_chaser_tool/IMG_1638.JPG
[18:50:27] <archivist> side question what is it, looks like a drill point grinding tool but has "chaser diameter in inches" as the only sensible text
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[18:50:59] <archivist> more pics in that directory
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[19:49:00] <CaptHindsight> somebody needs to make a magnetic-like chuck for aluminum :)
[19:49:29] <archivist> sticky tape or glue
[19:49:38] <CaptHindsight> tractor beam
[19:50:56] <archivist> actually you could be silly with electromagnets, the late professor Laithwaite could help you
[19:52:59] <Xfriend> who have a cnc machine running with MAC iOS ?
[19:54:57] <CaptHindsight> http://www.machpendant.com/ http://www.nanospark.com/?gclid=CP75gN6Z-7gCFbFDMgodlQoA4A
[19:55:50] <CaptHindsight> http://www.nanospark.com/controller/
[19:56:56] <archivist> just a remote to mach3
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[19:57:26] <kwallace> http://www.tuxcnc.org/pivot/entry.php?id=18#body
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[19:58:16] <CaptHindsight> somebody at NASA probably wrote something as well
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[20:20:51] <andypugh> Xfriend: I doubt many people have iOS _controlling_ a machine, but I have seen a GUI running on an Iphone (or possibly an Android)
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[20:34:46] <Xfriend> How can I install linuxcnc on ubuntu 12.04 ??
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[20:55:23] <JT-Shop> I think the instructions are on the forum or the wiki
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[20:59:46] <DJ9DJ> gn8
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[21:10:41] <CaptHindsight> after 9 days latency jitter: servo 4800, base 6700, RTAI + kernel 3.4.55
[21:11:11] <JT-Shop> you suck!
[21:11:20] <JT-Shop> just kidding
[21:11:25] <CaptHindsight> lol
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[21:43:27] <Nick001-Shop> Hardinge problems again. Got G76 working ok after the 3 spindle lines inserted in the hal file and got a handle on the g76 parameters. Now feed per rev and distance traveled is way - way off. I know my scales are off and don't know were or how to fix them, I had them doctored to something close to usable but that changed after I put the three spindle lines in. http://pastebin.com/tnXGdWkf...
[21:43:29] <Nick001-Shop> ...has my ini and hal file. Would someone look at them and see where my problem is?
[21:44:30] <Nick001-Shop> The 3 line are
[21:44:31] <Nick001-Shop> net spindle-revs-in ppmc.0.encoder.03.velocity => motion.spindle-speed-in
[21:44:33] <Nick001-Shop> net spindle-pos ppmc.0.encoder.03.position => motion.spindle-revs
[21:44:34] <Nick001-Shop> net spindle-index-enable motion.spindle-index-enable <=> ppmc.0.encoder.03.index-enable
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[22:14:07] <andypugh> Nick001: What does motion-spindle-revs do if you rotate the spindle one rev?
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[22:26:54] <Nick001-Shop> by hand? and what an I looking for?
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[22:31:29] <JT-Shop> check your encoder index http://gnipsel.com/linuxcnc/tuning/encoder.html
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[22:43:09] <Nick001-Shop> the spindle encoder is a resolver with a pico converter on it. I have seen the index signal in halsope. Also, it started threading after adding those 3 lines.
[22:45:15] <Nick001-Shop> I just tested z movement and it looks like its more or less ok. In g95-a 0.002 feed per rev looks like almost rapid at 400 rpm. So that scale is off.
[22:48:07] <Nick001-Shop> I commented out axis 1 (y) in the ini and chased and commented out all the hiccups it created - various calls for axis 1. Prog comes up without errors now and that's when I picked up on the fpr prob.
[22:52:14] <Nick001-Shop> Just checked the 0.100 incremental movements and they look good in x and z movements - by hand scale anyway. just looks like the feed per rev scale is out somewhere.
[22:55:45] <Nick001-Shop> JT-Shop index should be working as I got g76 to work
[22:57:36] <andypugh> I can't recall if feed-per-rev uses spindle-revs or spindle-speed-in
[22:58:07] <andypugh> But the first thing to check is spindle-revs when you turn the spindle one rev
[23:03:19] <Nick001-Shop> ok - ill do that now - there's a scale I played with a long time ago to get the machine feeding close to what it should've and putting in the 3 lines probably corrected a prob from before and now that scale has to be corrected again.
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[23:16:09] <Nick001-Shop> keep coming up wirh invald argument in the test box
[23:18:32] <andypugh> What are you doing in the test box?
[23:18:50] <andypugh> (I would expect to use the watch tab or a halmeter)
[23:22:27] <Nick001-Shop> hal meter - spindle revs in
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[23:23:55] <andypugh> And that is "coming up with invalid argument" ?
[23:25:19] <Nick001-Shop> that was in hal command box- unlinking ....
[23:25:30] <Nick001-Shop> its pulsing as the spindle slowly moves - balance on the driver keeps unadjusting itself -
[23:25:53] <Nick001-Shop> hal meter - its pulsing as the spindle slowly moves - balance on the driver keeps unadjusting itself -
[23:26:28] <andypugh> I have no idea what you mean.
[23:27:30] <Nick001-Shop> I opened hal meter -signals - spindle revs in
[23:27:48] <andypugh> And, does it increase by 1 for one rev?
[23:28:08] <andypugh> (exactly one for exactly one rev)
[23:28:52] <Nick001-Shop> I'm seeing something pulsing as the spindle moves - spindle is a servo
[23:29:18] <andypugh> Can you disable the amp and rotate the spindle by hand?
[23:29:46] <andypugh> (It shouldn't "pulse", it should increase steadily)
[23:30:08] <Nick001-Shop> turning off the power and rewiring the brake to release it
[23:30:39] <andypugh> Sounds like too much work
[23:30:59] <Nick001-Shop> pulse meaning something flashes and so fast i cant make it out
[23:31:43] <andypugh> What flashes?
[23:32:02] <andypugh> motion.spindle-revs should be a number.
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[23:33:46] <Nick001-Shop> hal meter box - shows a 0 and flashes a set of numbers every few seconds and goes back to 0
[23:34:01] <Nick001-Shop> but i should have index or I couldn't do g76 and I have that working good
[23:34:32] <Nick001-Shop> just now the feed per rev is in error
[23:34:45] <andypugh> Are you definitely looking at the motion.spindle-revs HAL pin?
[23:34:58] <andypugh> Is the spindle rotating slowly and continuously>
[23:35:08] <andypugh> Is index-enable false?
[23:35:44] <andypugh> OK, so G76 works properly and gives the correct pitch?
[23:37:52] <Nick001-Shop> seems to be correct - moves the correct z distance as far as the screen says
[23:38:21] <andypugh> The screen will always agree with itself.
[23:38:28] <Nick001-Shop> halmeter - signals - spindle revs-in
[23:39:20] <Nick001-Shop> checked 0.100 icremental move with a scale and is ok
[23:39:34] <Nick001-Shop> incremental
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[23:45:51] <Nick001-Shop> halmeter - pins - motion pins rev is a # that keeps moving as the spindle moves - If I put the spindle lock pin in the register stops
[23:47:23] <andypugh> That probably means that the feed depends on motion.spindle-speed-in then
[23:48:00] <andypugh> Though I really would like some confirmation that motion.spindle-revs is incrementing by 1 every rev.
[23:48:50] <andypugh> Actually, the docs are pretty clear: http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html/man/man9/motion.9.html
[23:49:38] <andypugh> motion.spindle-revs is for spindle-synchronised moves and motion.spindle-speed-in is used for G96 and CSS modes
[23:50:10] <andypugh> So, does motion.spindle-speed-in read correctly? It should be in revolutions per second.
[23:50:35] <Nick001-Shop> spindle speed buttons forward makes the screen # increase - reverse makes the # decrease
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[23:52:29] <Nick001-Shop> is this the area I should be looking at?
[23:52:31] <Nick001-Shop> # 2 commented out lines from inputing 3 above lines
[23:52:32] <Nick001-Shop> #net spinraw ppmc.0.encoder.03.delta conv-s32-float.0.in
[23:52:34] <Nick001-Shop> net spinfloat conv-s32-float.0.out mult2.0.in0
[23:52:36] <Nick001-Shop> setp mult2.0.in1 0.273066667
[23:52:38] <Nick001-Shop> #net SpindleRPM mult2.0.out motion.spindle-speed-in
[23:53:44] <andypugh> No, you should be looking at halmeter as the spindle goes round (as slowly as possible) to see if the pin values make sense.
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[23:54:31] <andypugh> I have no idea at all what that 0.273 constant is about
[23:54:57] <andypugh> Or what the .delta pin is even for.
[23:55:27] <Nick001-Shop> I don't either - this is why I'm having a problem
[23:55:58] <Nick001-Shop> I don't know what these values should be
[23:56:17] <andypugh> ppmc.0.encoder.NN.velocity should be revs-per-second.
[23:56:20] <andypugh> Is it?
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