#linuxcnc | Logs for 2013-07-27

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[00:05:03] <kwallace1> NickParker: I hope you aren't needing any favors from your mom anytime soon.
[00:06:12] <NickParker> eh she's not upset. It didn't get on her or anything. Just scared her pretty good.
[00:07:37] <PCW> FAbs module seems stable now, helps to sample the data in the middle of each bit cell instead of the edges...
[00:07:55] <skunkworks> fabs?
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[00:09:12] <kwallace1> The tool changer arm flips the tool holder as it sweeps in and out, so you need a lot of clearance from the vise and table to do a change. I've hit the vise a few times. Fortunately, it just stalls the arm, which is okay if you don't hit a cutter tip or move the table.
[00:09:17] <PCW> Fanuc Absolute encoder
[00:14:44] <skunkworks> oh - nice
[00:15:22] <skunkworks> jeeze - the stuff that is available now is awesome!
[00:17:02] <skunkworks> PCW: have you played much more with the 7i80?
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[00:18:02] <skunkworks> I am not really sure how the tool changer/spindle works on the acroloc yet...
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[00:21:46] <PCW> skunkworks No, other that in windows I'll ask micges about it next week Ive been bogged down in other things
[00:23:22] <skunkworks> heh
[00:25:21] <PCW> I did learn that pre vista windows has no way to avoid losing xmitted UDP packets when it refreshes it ARP cache
[00:25:50] <PCW> (well aside from making a static ARP entry)
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[00:54:31] <kwallace1> skunkworks: I thought I had read some chatter on Acrolocks a few year back, so I looked again:
[00:54:33] <kwallace1> http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/rant-acrolocs-awful-224521/
[00:54:47] <kwallace1> http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/acroloc-cnc-mills-120422/
[00:59:32] <kwallace1> Oops it helps to spell Acroloc correctly while searching.
[01:01:00] <andypugh> They sound like a very Skunkworks project.
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[01:03:23] <jdh> andpugh: the other day, you said you wished you had put the Z motor on your 9x on the other way. Did you mean reversed in place, or on the tailstock side?
[01:05:06] <andypugh> The main problem is that the ballscrew pulley is too close to the front of the headstock, so there is not enough "spare" ballscrew length to fit a ballscrew cover.
[01:05:13] <kwallace1> http://www.acroloc.com/Acroloc/Acroloc%20Tooling.htm
[01:06:15] <andypugh> If the ballscrew drive pulley was off the left hand end of the headstock, by contrast, this would not be a problem and the screw could also be closer to the bed.
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[01:07:17] <andypugh> kwallace1: That looks properly unique....
[01:07:38] <jdh> gotcha. I ordered a 925mm ballscrew machined so the pulleys will be off to the left by the drive belts and the far end should extend far enough for a hand crank.
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[01:10:31] <andypugh> kwallace1: I always like to buy products from a comany where the homepage dissolves into a political rant :-) http://www.acroloc.com/Acroloc/Acroloc%20Background.htm
[01:12:03] <jdh> were the flats where the stock leadscrew head and tail in the same plane?
[01:13:21] <andypugh> I can't remember.
[01:14:17] <andypugh> That's another reason to bolt the bracket across the spindle end of the bed (bolts in +Z direction). More adjustable.
[01:15:08] <andypugh> I do have occasional problems with the bolts that hold my bracket on. And they are _not_ easy to get to, being socket-head screws from the inside of the bed...
[01:16:08] <jdh> I was planning on making a 0.5" plate that used the existing holes to bolt the motor/ballscrew bracket on.
[01:17:42] <andypugh> I wouldn't worry about existing holes. It's yours. Drill and tap it wherever you fancy.
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[01:20:21] <kwallace1> andypugh: Have you considered buying cast iron stock or maybe hack a lost foam mold core? Your blank only needs to be bigger than your part.
[01:20:57] <andypugh> Durabar is a possibility, but I think it comes in meter lengths, and 1m x 9" sounds heavy to post.
[01:21:20] <andypugh> And really boring to hacksaw to length.
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[01:22:05] <andypugh> Whereas an off the shelf pulley (with a taperlock) will nicely mount on a spigot in the lathe chuck.
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[01:25:58] <kwallace1> Ouch, http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Rod-Stock-2KUN2?Pid=search
[01:27:34] <andypugh> I need this one: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Rod-Stock-2AHN8?Pid=search
[01:29:00] <andypugh> Compare to: http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/SPB224_5__V_Pulley-4785-p
[01:30:43] <kwallace1> The price of stock and finished parts makes no sense.
[01:32:22] <kwallace1> I have a few engine blocks I'm holding that I hope to someday melt down for parts. My furnace refractory will only allow for melting aluminum, so I need a new furnace.
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[01:36:52] <jesseg> kwallace1, lawnmower motors make GREAT casting alum
[01:39:08] <kwallace1> I have a hard time not trying to restore every small engine that comes my way. http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Briggs_130202_5HP/
[01:40:38] <kwallace1> I have melted down hard drives and auto cylinder heads.
[01:41:50] <jesseg> yeah, some of those old little motors are too neat to melt. I have one of the old cast iron kick-start briggs & stratton washing machine motors.
[01:42:02] <jesseg> They put a lot more metal in the flywheels back then
[01:42:54] <jesseg> but as far as 80's era lawnmower motors that are no good, I've thrown those into the wood stove, got it real hot, and then cast it in damp sand using lost-foam method
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[01:48:27] <kwallace1> There was a mid 50s and mid 60s B&S in the same pile I got the orange engine from. I got a tank for the 50s engine and carb rebuild kits from eBay and got them running too. They live on a 2x6 board so far.
[01:48:42] <andypugh> Proper Mansfield sand isn't that expensive, and is less likely to spit aluminium in your face.
[01:50:25] <jesseg> I never had any trouble with spitting. But thanks for the tip - I had no idea what kind of sand to get. I did have once incident though...
[01:51:49] <jesseg> You see, it was my first attempt. I have this old mid 70's chest freezer that still runs great but I use it as a workbench. So I piled up my damp sand in a nice mound (one gallon of damp fine beach sand) and I buried my styrofoam form in it..
[01:52:21] <andypugh> You may want to look for "foundry sand" as it seems that "Mansfield Sand" is not a great search term.
[01:52:38] <jesseg> Then I poured in about a cup of molten Al.. And for as second, everything was fine.. but.. then the sand which was now floating on the molten Al began to drift.. LOL.
[01:53:02] <jesseg> All the red hot Al went down behind the freezer and nearly caught the freezer's cord as well as the plywood floor on fire.
[01:53:05] <andypugh> Some kind of containing box is traditional :-)
[01:53:07] <jesseg> (in my shop.)
[01:53:28] <jesseg> yeah that was the first and last time I used the mound method. After that I did it in a 1.5 gallon cast iron pot
[01:54:43] <jesseg> It sort of looked like a mountain top cracking apart and hot lava running out
[01:54:52] <andypugh> Foundry sand is sand + bentonite clay. ie cat-litter.
[01:55:06] <kwallace1> I tried a kitty litter green sand recipe, but it didn't hold shape or details very well. I bought some Petrobond, but haven't used it yet.
[01:55:41] <andypugh> I think you would need to mill the sand and cat litter together really well,
[01:58:17] <kwallace1> I milled it with a couple of barbell weights for an hour and it didn't help. I might be able to find a recipe that works, but I wanted to spend more time casting.
[01:58:49] <andypugh> You probably need to pulverise the bentonite then wet-mill.
[01:59:44] <kwallace1> http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/Budget_Blend_Foundry_Sand.php
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[02:02:36] <andypugh> I am not sure that they understand the meaning of the word "Budget" but I guess you can re-use it many times.
[02:05:47] <kwallace1> I got my Petrobond for half that price from a vendor on eBay that bought a large batch.
[02:06:55] <jesseg> I did once try dry sand casting, but was not pleased as I recall. But I don't remember why.
[02:07:38] <kwallace1> http://backyardmetalcasting.com/greensand.html
[02:07:44] <andypugh> John Winter in the UK sell moulding sand at £9.30 for a 22kg (50lb) bag.
[02:08:14] <andypugh> http://www.johnwinter.co.uk/model-engineering/model-engineering
[02:10:00] <andypugh> Time to sleep, goodnight chaps.
[02:10:04] <jesseg> okay around $2/pound of petrobond foundry sand
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[02:15:25] <skunkworks> kwallace1: yes- they are surely not liked by all.
[02:16:01] <skunkworks> the quill is quite small. - but others say they are the fastest machines they have used.
[02:16:06] <skunkworks> I think we can make it work.
[02:16:23] <skunkworks> the quill has 9ish inches of travel - and then the head moves up and down.
[02:17:01] <skunkworks> the price was right - and it will replace our manual brown and sharp.
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[02:19:17] <kwallace1> I'm pretty sure you'll be able to fix the rough spots. So far I haven't replaced any of my machines. They just get moved closer together.
[02:21:17] <skunkworks> sure - I think it will be a nice machine. great travel - 40"X24"X20 or something like that.
[02:24:04] <kwallace1> At worst, you could replace the spindle shaft with shaft with a CAT30 or 40 taper. Making a CAT30 shaft for my Bridgeport is on my list.
[02:24:44] <kwallace1> Did you get tool holders?
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[02:31:29] <skunkworks> yes - a pallet full
[02:33:28] <skunkworks> we are used to odd tooling - the k&t is odd
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[02:49:47] <Jymmm> Just like it's loveble owners
[02:50:08] <Jymmm> Well, almost loveable, if they had some PANDUIT!!!
[03:19:11] <pcw_home> Hey that looks juts like my rototiller engine that just quit
[03:19:17] <pcw_home> just
[03:19:25] <skunkworks> heh
[03:20:39] <pcw_home> I think the little fuel pump diaphragm sprung a leak
[03:20:52] <skunkworks> unless something comes through the side of the crank case - most small engines are repairable...
[03:21:23] <pcw_home> the tank is part of the carburetor
[03:21:59] <skunkworks> briggs>
[03:22:00] <skunkworks> ?
[03:25:14] <pcw_home> The one I have looks identical down to the color
[03:25:49] <pcw_home> Monkey Wards Rototiller Orange
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[04:46:37] <RyanS> Why on earth is a core drill as used on magnetic drills called a broach cutter ie like the linear cutter that does keyways? Not even a similar process
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[07:06:09] <DJ9DJ> moin
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[10:59:11] <pimperle> hi. I just compiled and installed my first kinematics module. when using manual control the gui now reflects the path my mirror-controlled laser takes on the table. however it only moves one joint at a time, not one axis at a time (thus moving both joins to get a straight line).
[10:59:30] <pimperle> Is manual control supposed to operate on joints (and not axes)?
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[11:57:43] <pimperle> also: if i manually move my axis to zero and then hit "Home All", the X axis jumps to approximately 3 immediately. Why does't it do that? isn't home == (0,0)?
[11:58:44] <jthornton> you might have an offset in effect
[11:58:57] <jthornton> just the DRO moves?
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[12:26:51] <DJ9DJ> re
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[16:58:31] <IchGuckLive> hi all
[16:59:02] <IchGuckLive> murder day as we hit 110F today here and the plasmas got very hot on work day
[17:00:20] <mozmck> 110F? in Deutchland?
[17:00:40] <IchGuckLive> yes its the africa heat
[17:01:08] <mozmck> didn't know it got that hot there! Does here in Texas often.
[17:01:25] <mozmck> but it's cool and has been raining lately.
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[17:21:11] <IchGuckLive> im off have a nice wekend where ever you are !
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