#linuxcnc | Logs for 2013-04-17

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[01:01:53] <largecheesepuff> hmm oops
[01:01:59] <largecheesepuff> http://www.gnipsel.com/linuxcnc/tuning/encoder.html
[01:02:14] <largecheesepuff> anyone have some information on how to do that?
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[01:04:37] <r00t4rd3d> i imagine JT-Shop would
[01:04:44] <r00t4rd3d> since thats his site
[01:05:19] <r00t4rd3d> 9pm though, he might be in bed already
[01:12:29] <largecheesepuff> I'm just trying to figure out why my spindle index isn't working correctly.
[01:27:52] <skunkworks> largecheesepuff: what are you trying to do?
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[01:45:25] <pcw_home> To test index you first unlink index-enable in the HAL file
[01:45:27] <pcw_home> (comment out the line that connects it to motion.spindle-index-enable)
[01:45:29] <pcw_home> Then set index enable by hand (in axis via the show hal configuration)
[01:45:31] <pcw_home> Then slowly rotate the spindle. The index enable signal should stay true until
[01:45:33] <pcw_home> you hit the index position
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[01:50:01] <PetefromTn> ...
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[02:03:38] <gammax> anyone use draftsight?
[02:06:59] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: thanks
[02:13:59] <PetefromTn> gammax: Yeah man I use it all the time...
[02:14:33] <gammax> PetefromTn, just figured out my issue, was trying to print an image with correct co ordinates onto paper...Thanks!
[02:15:21] <pcw_home> You can also verify that you see index on the input pin (GPIO14)
[02:17:06] <pcw_home> (hm2_5i25.0.gpio.014.in)
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[02:18:41] <PetefromTn> gammax: no worries man.
[02:18:55] <largecheesepuff> works with it on gpio.014.in_not
[02:20:21] <PetefromTn> pcw_home: Hey man I went and bought one of those heater elements today and installed it. Worked just fine LOL... I now can slow from higher speeds within a second or two. Pretty nice that it was only like $10.00 too. I actually wound up installing it in the space between the electronics cabinet and the column of the machine so it does not heat up the electronics. I am gonna make a little cover for it here tomorrow. Thanks
[02:20:21] <PetefromTn> for the help with it. Peace
[02:20:27] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: so the signal is working
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[02:26:15] <pcw_home> PetefromTn: its just a high wattage resistor after all (be careful of the terminals there can be as much as 400 VDC across the element when on)
[02:27:46] <PetefromTn> pcw_home: yup I know that is why I will be installing a cover over the whole thing that should keep any stray hands out of there. It does seem to work as desired tho. Now if I can just get my Z axis tuned up so it does not fault on a Z negative cruise I will really be somewhere LOL
[02:28:25] <pcw_home> what kind of fault?
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[02:29:11] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: gpio.014.in work fine
[02:29:17] <largecheesepuff> works fine
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[02:30:08] <pcw_home> So next is the index enable test
[02:30:31] <largecheesepuff> ok
[02:30:45] <PetefromTn> Basically it is the same overvoltage fault when the head goes down. The motor seems to have ample power to raise the head but when it goes down the weight of the head makes it kinda accelerate slightly at anything over around 100 IPM and then you get an error....drive drops out.
[02:32:54] <pcw_home> So you need a brake resistor on the Z axis Amp as well
[02:35:07] <pcw_home> got to dump that stored energy somewhere...
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[02:36:50] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: is the index enable test the one you mentioned earlier
[02:37:11] <pcw_home> Yes
[02:40:28] <PetefromTn> pcw_home: Yeah I guess I do, honestly not too sure but Mike Kilroy said he usually has to put a 1500 watt around 30ohm resistor on these machines on the Z since the millhead is not counterweighted. It is quite large and heavy millhead too. Dunno what the actual weight is but it is rather huge even without the motor and power drawbar.
[02:41:43] <gammax> anyone have a hardinge hc chucker?
[02:42:19] <pcw_home> Its really just the same situation as your VFD (only smaller)
[02:44:17] <pcw_home> some drives let you common the DC bus lines which helps
[02:47:47] <PetefromTn> pcw_home: We were looking at the manual today me and Art and apparently the unit has an internal resistor that is like 23 ohms and it specs an external one that is like 25 ohms but it is confusing to read thru. We were considering using some sorta homebrew solution for this as well but not sure yet as we do not know the particulars. At least with the spindle drive we could figure it out. The Drive is the TSTA-30 Teco from
[02:47:47] <PetefromTn> Machmotion . It apparently has a setting in CN008,cn009 that relates to the braking setup but it seems confusing. I will probably have to call Machmotion tomorrow or something. Cn008 describes the functioning with the dynamic brake and the mechanical brake and CN009 determines how it works but I don't understand it really.
[02:49:19] <largecheesepuff> ok.. well time to give up for the evening and try again tomorrow.
[02:59:57] <PetefromTn> largecheesepuff: Good luck with it man have a good night. Peace
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[03:13:46] <PetefromTn> Well I will get back on this monster again tomorrow. Should be able to get alll the guards in place and be able to make a test run. Also got my coolant in today so I can mix some up and test out the coolant pump. Good night fellas....peace
[03:16:18] <Valen> bah guards are for wimps ;->
[03:18:05] <PetefromTn> LOL hey Valen, I actually mean the chip covers, they are kinda cruddy looking so I am slowly cleaning them one by one and reinstalling them...
[03:18:49] <Valen> bet you a coke they look cruddy again in the future ;-P
[03:26:21] <PetefromTn> Probably right because if I have anything to say about it once this machine is up and running I mean to run the piss out of it making parts and money.....LOL
[03:28:35] <PetefromTn> Well Im tired talk at ya tomorrow...
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[03:59:54] <gammax> anyone ever put encoders on steppers?
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[04:05:42] <largecheesepuff1> dang I left
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[05:42:05] <r00t4rd3d> I made a lantern http://imgur.com/a/LGXb3
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[10:44:02] <jthornton> nice
[10:44:13] <jthornton> what size bit do you use to cut that out?
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[10:54:14] <cpresser> r00t4rd3d: will you share a dfx? :)
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[11:18:43] <r00t4rd3d> http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy_cnc_router_table_machines/152794-mdf_madness-18.html
[11:18:46] <r00t4rd3d> #209
[11:19:14] <r00t4rd3d> jthornton, .0625 em
[11:21:21] <cpresser> r00t4rd3d: nice. ty.
[11:22:01] <cpresser> btw: nice grinder^
[11:22:08] <r00t4rd3d> :D
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[11:26:12] <r00t4rd3d> http://curiouscustoms.com/2012/07/26/bee-hexagonal-tabletop-lamp/
[11:26:20] <r00t4rd3d> i like that pattern
[11:29:21] * cpresser needs to make more stuff with his lasercutter
[11:29:26] <cpresser> those are all nice gifts
[11:29:38] <r00t4rd3d> https://anonfiles.com/file/88dd9473f854797fd1fda397197ca5a3
[11:30:06] <r00t4rd3d> thats the actual dxf i made for the green lantern
[11:30:22] <r00t4rd3d> not just my template
[11:44:18] <cpresser> that what i lasered today: http://ca.rstenpresser.de/~cpresser/tmp/pictures/puzzle-nina/puzzle-final.png
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[12:03:28] <PetefromTn> mornin' fellow CNC afficionado's....!!
[12:07:30] <archivist> or you got it bad ans it is afflictionardo's
[12:08:48] <archivist> cpresser, I dont see a nut on the adjustable spanner !
[12:10:09] <archivist> butt here are plenty of designs without nuts http://www.adjustable.archivist.info/
[12:10:39] <cpresser> archivist: you are right. i dropped a little of the geometry to make it simpler. i tried to illustrate it, but it always looked shitty. so i just removed the nut
[12:11:30] <cpresser> archivist: are you a collector of those tools?
[12:11:49] * archivist admits nothing :)
[12:12:16] <archivist> I have maybe a couple of hundred
[12:12:57] <PetefromTn> affliction....Hmmm....maybe.
[12:14:17] <cpresser> thats a damm cool hobby. way better than collecting stamps or coins
[12:15:06] <Icekiller> anyone here in Belgium/Netherlands/Germany who can mill a tr12x3 ? (the endings)
[12:16:06] <cpresser> Icekiller: 4-cornered-shaft?
[12:18:04] <Icekiller> http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-RQOV6OJE-D.jpg something like that..
[12:18:57] <cpresser> thats a lathe-job.
[12:19:40] <archivist> is it the nut you want
[12:19:53] <Icekiller> no the ends to be rounded
[12:20:01] <Icekiller> http://www.cyrom.org/palbum/main.php?g2_itemId=2991&g2_imageViewsIndex=1 <- basicly that
[12:20:15] <cpresser> ask someone in your neighbourhood. it can be done on any lathe
[12:23:30] <jdh> cpresser: what laser/material?
[12:23:48] <cpresser> jdh: 80watt Co2; HDF 5mm
[12:24:03] <cpresser> i will add pictures of the finished product as soon as i glued it together
[12:24:09] <jdh> nifty.
[12:24:25] <jdh> why are 40w so cheap compared to 80w?
[12:24:36] <jdh> or even 50
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[12:24:52] * cpresser doesnt have a clue
[12:25:22] <cpresser> but i do need the 80watt since i cut a lot of thick acrylic
[12:25:30] <PetefromTn> -*- cpresser doesnt have a clue how do you do this?
[12:25:46] * jdh says, it's easy.
[12:25:50] * cpresser agrees
[12:25:54] <PetefromTn> smartass...
[12:26:13] <cpresser> PetefromTn: http://www.ircbeginner.com/ircinfo/ircc-commands.html
[12:27:31] * PetefromTn me likes
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[12:40:28] <jdh> keling has a 40w for $679, 50w is $3000
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[13:44:26] <PetefromTn> Dayum these chip guards are nasty.....
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[14:42:04] <PetefromTn> And heavy too...
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[15:08:49] <PetefromTn> still scrubbin'
[15:11:38] <jthornton> largecheesepuff1, I updated that page to be a bit more clear on what to do
[15:12:22] <largecheesepuff1> jthornton: thanks
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[15:15:52] <PetefromTn> three down.....three to go....!!
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[15:45:38] <gammax> PetefromTn, what u doin?
[15:46:37] <PetefromTn> gammax: I am scrubbing the living daylights out of the original chip guards that came on my Cincincatti Arrow 500 VMC. They were NASTY and I am about done so I can shine them up a bit and put them back on the machine..
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[15:47:10] <gammax> PetefromTn, ahh i soaked myne in simple green
[15:47:27] <gammax> came out super shiny with a light brush!
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[15:48:24] <PetefromTn> Mine are a little too big to soak LOL and they had surface rust on the stainless which is kinda odd but I have been sanding them down and then I am shining them up just enough to look nice not polish or anything
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[15:48:41] <gammax> ahhhh
[15:48:44] <gammax> have fun! lol
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[15:51:16] <PetefromTn> Oh yeah loads of fun....but once it is done I can start testing the machine and making some chips!!
[15:51:53] <gammax> lol by any chance do you still have t slot nuts or a clamping kit for the rf45 you had?
[15:54:15] <PetefromTn> Yeah I do but I will be using it on the Cincinatti here....
[15:55:18] <gammax> DAMN.... do you happen to know what size Ill be needing?
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[15:56:58] <c60> Anyone know of any opensource feedrate calculators? This oak is sounding a little loud.
[15:58:46] <gammax> c60, HSM advisor
[15:58:57] <gammax> try that, I think you will be satisfied :)
[15:59:16] <gammax> I have it on windows... not sure if its avail on *nux
[16:00:10] <gammax> and to add to that... its technicly not opensource... every 30 days you have to uninstall and reinstall to keep it going unless you either buy it or help out with the dev of it. then you get it for free
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[16:05:14] <c60> gammax: I'm looking for something for linux preferably, also just needs to be simple, I checked out gcode calculator that comes up lots on google, but it seems more geared to metal work, and also overly complicated for my needs.
[16:06:20] <c60> gammax: I'm all wood here,
[16:06:30] <gammax> ohhhhh woops! lol
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[16:13:01] <gammax> PetefromTn, ok i lied.. i cant seem to get draft sight to print one for one, I need a sketch to print up at the exact resolution of the document properties... any help?
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[16:19:08] <cpresser> c60: feedrates for wood are difficult. i usually try different settings for each new material i mill
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[16:20:09] <cpresser> when using endmills i prefer a larger small pass-depth of 1-2mm, and about 0.1mm feed per tooth.
[16:20:54] <cpresser> larger=rather
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[16:34:01] <PetefromTn> gammax: That's odd, is it scaled correctly in the drawing? Perhaps your printer settings are not correct either?
[16:34:30] <gammax> well im using legal paper...
[16:34:36] <gammax> is there a setting?
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[16:40:50] <PetefromTn> I thought there was some settings in the print config manager...
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[16:44:46] <c60> anyone seen this --> http://blendercam.blogspot.ca/p/download-and-installation.html
[16:49:12] <c60> cpresser: I'm using 3/8 (9.65mm) on oak, doing 5.25mm per pass at around 1800mm/min which I think's in the ballpark,
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[17:00:52] <IchGuckLive> hi all B9
[17:02:48] <Tom_itx> c60, top of this page are some calculators: http://tom-itx.dyndns.org:81/~webpage/cnc/psu/psu_index.php
[17:03:11] <cpresser> c60: sounds plausible. a tool this large is able to move a lot of chips. usually i work with 1/8 endmills, they arent stiff enought for 5mm per pass :)
[17:03:44] <Tom_itx> carbide or hss?
[17:05:04] <c60> carbide, I don't bother with hss
[17:05:25] <c60> it's all for customers so easy to tack on a bit to there bill ;)
[17:05:32] <Tom_itx> this one has data for soft wood, hard wood, laminate etc: http://www.onsrud.com/plusdocs/Doc/index.html?model.code=FeedSpeeds
[17:06:11] <c60> Tom_itx: those are even the bits I use, great!
[17:08:00] <IchGuckLive> hss is better on wood
[17:08:10] <IchGuckLive> and you can sharp it your own
[17:08:36] <IchGuckLive> 2 steppers and you are in business with a bit sharpenenr
[17:12:00] <IchGuckLive> sharpen of 2cut bits by hand http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wx1vPh3eN0
[17:12:01] <Tecan> (9wx1vPh3eN0) "Kaindl BSM 20: Fräser schärfen" by "kaindlde" is "Tech" - Length: 0:01:35
[17:12:33] <IchGuckLive> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvzqGeNudo8 cnc
[17:12:33] <Tecan> (TvzqGeNudo8) "Kaindl_FSM" by "kaindlde" is "Howto" - Length: 0:03:33
[17:12:49] <c60> IchGuckLive: Better on wood? In my experience HSS dulls quicker than carbide when cutting wood.
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[17:13:25] <IchGuckLive> VHM is good on pricing
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[17:14:58] <IchGuckLive> c60: lots of russion bits on very long milling stuff if the mashine can take it
[17:15:55] <largecheesepuff> Anyone experience with index encoders not work. Mine is setting the gpio pin in but doesn't seem to be making to spindle-index
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[17:17:02] <IchGuckLive> c60: why dont you get the wood stuff direct with 60k Rpm
[17:18:19] <c60> IchGuckLive: I don't understand?
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[17:25:15] <IchGuckLive> c60: http://www.werkzeuge-fuchs.de/de/Oberfraeser/Fraesersaetze-HW/6tlg-HM-Fraesersatz-Nutfraeser-Schaft-8mm-Oberfraeser-EDESSOe
[17:25:25] <pcw_home> largecheesepuff: did you try the index test? (set index enable and rotate spindle)
[17:25:31] <IchGuckLive> c60: things like that
[17:25:51] <IchGuckLive> you can get this till 125mm depth milling
[17:26:02] <IchGuckLive> i use them for Foam cutting
[17:26:29] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: I did.. nothing seems to happen
[17:26:52] <largecheesepuff> largecheesepuff: also just added some information to the forums about it
[17:26:57] <largecheesepuff> oops
[17:27:14] <IchGuckLive> largecheesepuff: show the Hal
[17:27:23] <pcw_home> nothing meaning?
[17:27:43] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: but hm2_5i25.0.gpio.014.in shows true false
[17:28:12] <largecheesepuff> I set it in Hal configuration and it never seems to flip true false
[17:28:28] <pcw_home> you set the encoder index enable pin true and then you monitor it as you turn the spindle
[17:28:37] <largecheesepuff> yes
[17:28:40] <c60> IchGuckLive: Ah, 125mm wow, ya the most I've gone up to is around 80mm for doing mortise in doors.
[17:28:56] <pcw_home> yes meaning what?
[17:29:12] <IchGuckLive> c60: thats the kind of bits im talking about
[17:29:30] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: I set the pin true and what to see if it ever goes false and nothing seems to happen
[17:29:47] <pcw_home> so it stays true?
[17:30:27] <pcw_home> also pleas indicate what pin you are setting true (full name)
[17:31:17] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: I've been setting motion.spindle-index-enable
[17:32:12] <pcw_home> you need to set and watch the encoder index enable
[17:35:44] <pcw_home> hm2_5i25.0.encoder.00.index-enable
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[17:40:00] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: trying to find that pin in halcmd since it says it doesn't exist
[17:40:17] <skunkworks> largecheesepuff, what hardware are you using?
[17:40:31] <largecheesepuff> 5i25 + 7i76 combo
[17:40:35] <skunkworks> oh - looks like mesa
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[17:41:11] <pcw_home> halcmd show pin
[17:41:31] <skunkworks> I think halcmd does tab-complete..
[17:42:44] <pcw_home> I usually do halcmd show pin > pinlist so I have a copy/paste donor file
[17:44:22] <IchGuckLive> c60: us or europ
[17:45:04] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: just added motion.spindle-index enable back into my hal file and restarted
[17:45:44] <largecheesepuff> now it says hm2_5i25.0.encoder.00.index-enable is connct to a signal
[17:46:25] <largecheesepuff> should I unlink it somehow? and try setting the pin true?
[17:46:30] <pcw_home> Righ so you must command out the line that connects them to test by hand
[17:46:46] <pcw_home> s/command/comment/
[17:47:16] <pcw_home> or unlink
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[17:49:06] <DJ9DJ> namd
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[17:53:36] <c60> IchGuckLive: neither, Canada ;)
[17:53:36] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: ok I can set hm2_5i25.0.encoder.00.index-enable true and after turning the spindle have it flip back false
[17:53:55] <IchGuckLive> c60: eng or french side
[17:54:02] <c60> West
[17:54:11] <c60> well, prarie land
[17:54:25] <c60> I'm at the end of the flat part
[17:54:55] <IchGuckLive> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Canada
[17:55:07] <c60> Lee valley is now stocking the odd Onsrud bit, and it's hard to beat there prices.
[17:55:10] <IchGuckLive> the nicer one
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[17:56:33] <c60> Calgary specifically, where it snows a foot in spring, it's finally warmed up to +7C today so there's lots of melting going on.
[17:56:49] <IchGuckLive> c60: http://www.advantage-drillbits.com/wood/auger2.html
[17:57:39] <pcw_home> largecheesepuff: ok that verifies that the index hardware is all working
[17:59:26] <pcw_home> what operation are you doing that does not behave as you expect?
[18:01:03] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: synchronized motion which just hangs
[18:01:20] <IchGuckLive> im off
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[18:02:12] <pcw_home> Which gcode?
[18:02:37] <largecheesepuff> g76
[18:03:28] <pcw_home> OK threading
[18:03:56] <pcw_home> Maybe someone here can look at your gcode
[18:05:17] <largecheesepuff> I've also tried few things posted to see if it would work with no luck so far
[18:05:49] <pcw_home> also motion-spindle-at-speed must be connected and true
[18:06:43] <pcw_home> (for g76 to proceed)
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[18:18:35] <pcw_home> I would watch both motion-spindle-at-speed and motion.spindle-index-enable to see what the hangup is
[18:22:39] <cradek> and spindle-revs
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[18:48:10] <largecheesepuff> pcw_home: funny thing is neither really changes assuming I can use hal meter to look at motion.spindle-index-enable
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[18:53:59] <largecheesepuff> spindle-revs does continually count up
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[19:01:12] <PCW> is motion-spindle-at-speed true?
[19:01:39] <PCW> if not it will hang forever
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[19:04:37] <largecheesepuff> PCW: motion.spindle-at-speed always says true
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[19:05:40] <PetefromTn> ...
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[19:09:55] <largecheesepuff> yup
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[19:24:43] <andypugh> largecheesepuff: Can you show us the HAL? Is there anything else connected to spindle-index-enable?
[19:26:35] <largecheesepuff> andypugh: do you want copy of halcmd show pin?
[19:26:45] <largecheesepuff> or my current hal configuration file?
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[19:29:43] <PCW> HAL file
[19:31:09] <Jymmm> I pulled an alrm battery charge from it's wall moutn chassis and going to todd in on the lid of a tool box with a bunch of gelcell batteries. It's 120VAC charger, anyone have any suggestions on a "open air" enclosure or shield?
[19:31:39] <Jymmm> Not manditory, but would be nice
[19:32:11] <Jymmm> It's a 12/24VDC 6A PS/charger for fwiw
[19:32:38] <Jymmm> with 2"x4"x1" heatsinks
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[19:35:25] <largecheesepuff> my hal file is on the forums but I'll repost both under naz basic configuration
[19:46:13] <andypugh> Well, that looks OK..
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[19:50:11] <cradek> if spindle-index-enable is hooked up and you are getting index (i.e. it gets pushed back low by the encoder module it's connected to), and spindle-revs is increasing, and spindle-at-speed is true, it will work.
[19:50:19] <cradek> you need to figure out which of those conditions is not met
[19:50:38] <andypugh> zero thread pitch?
[19:51:46] <cradek> sure, I guess
[19:51:54] <cradek> if that's not an error...
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[19:53:03] <largecheesepuff> I noticed spindle-at-speed at speed always says true
[19:53:12] <cradek> if nothing's hooked to it, that's normal
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[19:54:00] <andypugh> (as an aside, if I wanted a Z-W G76, I guess I would need to assemble my own out of G33?)
[19:54:07] <cradek> yes
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[20:12:24] <PetefromTn_> Some homing help please?
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[20:12:38] <largecheesepuff> cradek: Is there any other tests to run spindle-at-speed is true spindle-revs always counts up
[20:13:10] <cradek> look at what I already said
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[20:20:28] <PetefromTn_> anyone?
[20:21:45] <cradek> PetefromTn_: ask your question. nobody will promise to help without seeing the question.
[20:24:15] <JT-Shop> how true
[20:25:16] <PetefromTn_> cradek: LoL nevermind I think I just figured it out...Thanks.
[20:27:35] <pfred1> day shootin! http://wtkr.com/2013/04/17/live-antares-rocket-launch-from-wallops-island/
[20:27:54] <pfred1> I can see that from my house
[20:28:24] <JT-Shop> cool
[20:30:17] <cradek> PetefromTn_: haha yay!
[20:31:45] <pfred1> we're go for launch
[20:31:54] <PetefromTn_> Yeay is right..LOL
[20:35:22] <PetefromTn_> I was trying to make my Y axis home and then go to the front of the machine to await my loading of parts or whatever but my X axis setup is done that way and it goes to the center of travel at the end of the homing routine and I was comparing the INI files for both axes and it was not making any sense... But after I played with the settings a tad and tried to home after each setting change I figured it out. Now Z homes, then
[20:35:22] <PetefromTn_> X homes, goes to the center of travel, and finally Y homes and then comes to the front of the machine...just like I wanted..peace
[20:39:31] <PetefromTn_> Now I am just playing with the homing speeds....
[20:40:27] <PetefromTn_> I managed to get all my damn dirty chip guards cleaned up and scrubbed and I reinstalled them today on the machine. Now I can mix up this new Trim Sol coolant and put some in the machine and try to make some test chips....Gonna be cool.
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[20:46:36] <JT-Shop> PetefromTn_: have read about G28 &G30
[20:46:48] <JT-Shop> http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html/gcode/gcode.html#sec:G28-G28_1
[20:47:44] <JT-Shop> or you can use G53 to go to an absolute machine position
[20:47:56] <ds3> question - is there any way to put in backlash values in stepconf?
[20:48:19] <JT-Shop> iirc no
[20:49:09] <ds3> what is the recommended way of adding it so future stepconf invokations won't wipe it out?
[20:49:26] <pfred1> boo they aborted
[20:49:50] <JT-Shop> it's not possible to change the ini file and run stepconf again without it reverting your changes
[20:49:57] <pfred1> a hose fell off the rocket
[20:50:01] <JT-Shop> finish with stepconf and make your changes
[20:51:19] <ds3> ok
[20:51:42] <ds3> stepconf isn't really finished...planning upgrades which are easiest to handle in stepconf
[20:53:57] <JT-Shop> while your planning your upgrades you can work on removing the backlash
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[21:04:13] <DJ9DJ> gn8
[21:04:36] <andypugh> ds3: At some point you will have to give up on Stepconf, and you probably won't miss it when you do.
[21:05:07] <pfred1> andypugh what is wrong with Stepconf?
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[21:06:05] <andypugh> Nothing, but it is limited.
[21:06:17] <pfred1> yeah it gets you up and running
[21:07:11] <ds3> andypugh: I tried that and it led to a mess of config files. I am starting a fresh on a new box
[21:07:32] <ds3> and I am loving how the rapids can make the entire machine sway around w/o loosing steps!!!
[21:07:46] <pfred1> ds3 heh
[21:07:57] <andypugh> Yeah, we could fix that with a finite-jerk trajectory planner. :-)
[21:08:42] <pfred1> NASA has a nice CNC machine
[21:09:20] <pfred1> they just showed it on NASA TV
[21:10:43] <pfred1> Lockheed Martin apparently has a nice CNC machien too
[21:11:35] <andypugh> Maybe more than one
[21:11:39] <ds3> it is not a bug in EMC, it is a bug with my mill mounting. needs to be more rigid ;)
[21:11:51] <pfred1> andypugh they just showed a 20 foot 5 axis router
[21:12:03] <andypugh> That's quite small?
[21:12:08] <pfred1> they were making a heat shield with it
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[21:12:17] <ds3> in case anyone is watching - using too short of a step pulse can cause very weird results like an apparently deterministic loss of steps
[21:12:20] <JT-Shop> ds3: it is easier to know what is in your hal and ini files
[21:12:22] <pfred1> it seemed capable of doing the job
[21:12:45] <pfred1> ds3 yes you need to use the right timing length
[21:12:55] <ds3> JT-Shop: do you recommend removing the stepconf xml files?
[21:13:31] <ds3> pfred1: yes but I was expecting it to be more intermittent. this was amazingly deterministic
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[21:13:40] <andypugh> pfred1: http://www.pdbengineering.com/pdf/Travelling%20gantry%20machine%20feature.pdf built in 2010 by a company that I would like to see survive, as they have always made the most excellent of lathes.
[21:13:57] <ds3> over about 200 times, it consistantly lost enough steps to create a nice staircase pattern
[21:14:42] <pfred1> andypugh oh I don't know that thing Lockheed showed looked bigger
[21:15:40] <andypugh> ds3: Computers tend to be good at doing exactly the same thing every time. The mechanical parts tend not to shed atoms, it is amazing how you can see _exactly_ the same error or number of missed steps every single time.
[21:16:19] <pfred1> heh yeah computers are pretty regular
[21:16:20] <andypugh> pfred1: That picture is only half the machine, they couldn't fit the whole thig in the factory :-)
[21:17:14] <andypugh> What I like about that thing is that it is just a hobby-style gantry, but bigger. It's just linear rails, ballscrews, and a steel frame.
[21:17:29] <pfred1> andypugh hmm yes just
[21:18:46] <andypugh> http://www.lathes.co.uk/dsg/index.html
[21:19:11] <andypugh> A company that made hammers in-house, and had individually tailored overalls.
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[21:19:31] <pfred1> I bought a new hammer last weekend
[21:21:17] <pfred1> http://i.imgur.com/r4OzOVT.jpg
[21:21:42] <andypugh> You don't see that pattern very often.
[21:21:51] <pfred1> a cross peen?
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[21:24:35] <andypugh> Inded.
[21:25:06] <pfred1> yeah that is why I bought it I didn't have one quite like it
[21:25:29] <andypugh> Not sure what it does for you, but I would have bought it too.
[21:25:37] <pfred1> it was $2
[21:25:55] <andypugh> Here is a nice quote from lathes.co.uk "
[21:25:56] <andypugh> Dean, Smith & Grace 17T toolroom lathe
[21:25:57] <andypugh> Weighing in at 2.5 tons the 17-inch (actual swing 18") DSG 17T Precision lathe was not a modified production lathe, but one specifically designed for toolroom use and built to tolerance and alignments of better than 0.0001". Even today a highly sought-after model, during the 1960s and 1970s they were assembled by a specialist fitter, Tommy Williams - who just loved the work and wanted no other. Fitted with a two-speed
[21:25:57] <pfred1> I have a mad hammer collection
[21:25:58] <andypugh> 7.5/3.75 hp motor, no fewer then thirty-six forward speeds and twelve reverse spindle speeds were available. Whilst early versions of the 17T had plain spindle bearing, later models were generally fitted with a set of the highest quality Timken taper roller bearings - though the option of a plain bearing headstock continued to be available"
[21:26:19] <ds3> on a different note - how sensitive is the python UI on the version of python installed?
[21:26:34] <pfred1> 2.6 and 2.7 work
[21:26:54] <ds3> isn't there a 2.8 also?
[21:27:02] <pfred1> maybe I never tried it
[21:27:04] <ds3> I'm playing with reprap stuff on the same box
[21:27:11] <ds3> don't want to break emc
[21:27:30] <ve7it> interesting stepper drives $89 http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Motion_Control/Stepper_Systems/Stepper_Drives_-z-_Power#drives
[21:29:01] <ve7it> also video... http://www.youtube.com/embed/NnnrmZ4Wk_c?rel=0
[21:29:22] <pfred1> I like making my own drives
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[21:31:36] <pfred1> I'd like to get some of these: http://simewang007.en.ec21.com/Toshiba_Thb6064ah_Engraver_Machine_Step--5804224_5887880.html
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[21:34:51] <ds3> pfred1: what do you use?
[21:35:03] <pfred1> ds3 for motor drivers now?
[21:35:07] <ds3> yes
[21:35:27] <pfred1> http://www.instructables.com/id/TB6560-Microstepping-Bipolar-Chopper-Stepper-Motor/
[21:35:44] <pfred1> my own custom TB6560AHQ drivers
[21:36:12] <ds3> is that better then the Allegro stuff?
[21:36:24] <pfred1> they're OK they kind of lost torque at low RPM though
[21:36:34] <pfred1> well I've made allegro drivers too
[21:36:59] <pfred1> I used an ALS7026M with my own half step sequencer
[21:37:09] <pfred1> SLA7026M
[21:37:22] <pfred1> it is unipolar
[21:37:33] <andypugh> My grandad was an Allegro driver.
[21:37:36] <pfred1> it is a really ancient IC
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[21:39:11] <pfred1> here is my Allegro board http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1538/pict0783o.jpg
[21:39:21] <ds3> do they all work about the same?
[21:39:31] <pfred1> http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/7711/pict0789w.jpg
[21:40:06] <andypugh> In case you are puzzled by my previous statement: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austin_Allegro
[21:40:14] <pfred1> well the nice thing about Allegro stuff is it is easier to set the current on them
[21:40:50] <pfred1> andypugh the stuff you folks will drive around in
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[21:41:08] <andypugh> Even at the time the car was seen as a bit of a joke.
[21:41:48] <pfred1> well we've made a lot of lemons too I suppose
[21:42:27] <pfred1> http://sfcitizen.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/IMG_8321.jpg
[21:42:49] <pfred1> that car even looks like a lemon I think it may be where the term came from in fact
[21:43:57] <pfred1> I like how the person driving it has their hand up to cover their face so no one can see them
[21:44:31] <andypugh> The dent in the door makes me wonder what it was made of. Lead foil?
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[21:45:02] <andypugh> (What is it, by the way?)
[21:45:10] <pfred1> a Ford Pinto
[21:45:16] <andypugh> Ah.
[21:45:44] <pfred1> I think they're the cars that if you got rear ended they exploded
[21:47:27] <pfred1> this is another classic rat ride http://allworldcars.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/06-1972-gremlin-xlt.jpg
[21:48:13] <pfred1> the car made famous in Wayne's World http://i2.cdn.turner.com/money/galleries/2010/autos/1002/gallery.cheap_collector_cars/images/amc_pacer_2.jpg
[21:48:38] <pfred1> looks like a fishbowl on wheels doesn't it?
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[21:50:10] <pfred1> I can still remember the first time I ever saw a Honda on the road
[21:50:25] <andypugh> My job is driving wierd looking Fords.
[21:51:11] <pfred1> I figured by now we'd have some really futuristic looking cars
[21:51:29] <pfred1> it never really happened though did it?
[21:53:53] <pfred1> I remember these! man this is ugly http://tomsautoblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/0_77_amc_matador_barcelona_ii_2dr_tan_bronze_001.jpg
[21:54:22] <andypugh> pfred1: Only I can tell, but this is me driving: http://www.caradvice.com.au/40054/2010-ford-c-max-spy-pics/
[21:54:50] <pfred1> what is tied to the hood?
[21:54:58] <pfred1> looks like a little stuffed bear
[21:55:33] <andypugh> That is a Pooh Bear, put there by the mechanics for reasons I can't quite recall, but possibly related to my surname,
[21:55:47] <pfred1> oh see I was right it is a little stuffed bear
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[21:56:10] <pfred1> no you need an Andy Panda
[21:56:16] <andypugh> Yup! :-) I still have him on my desk.
[21:56:46] <pfred1> they're probably difficult to get though
[21:57:11] <andypugh> The problem with that car is that the wheels are too small for the body.
[21:57:16] <pfred1> winnie the pooh is pretty cool though
[21:57:43] <pfred1> the problem with that car is it looks like whoever designed how it looks was having ill effects from the drugs they were taking
[21:58:06] <pfred1> it is not very attractive at all
[21:58:35] <andypugh> Without the disguise kit it looks like this: http://www.carautoportal.com/car-images/ford/ford-c-max/ford-c-max.jpg
[21:58:45] <pfred1> oh so it has junk stuck to it
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[21:58:50] <pfred1> that makes more sense
[21:59:28] <pfred1> well at least it doesn't look like it rolled off the set of a low budget sci-fi movie anymore
[21:59:29] <Tom_itx> that pinto even looks like a lemon
[21:59:46] <pfred1> Tom_itx I think the Pinto is why we have lemon laws now
[22:00:10] <pfred1> andypugh yeah in red it isn't bad
[22:00:32] <Tom_itx> then there was the amc pacer
[22:00:39] <pfred1> the racer pacer
[22:01:13] <pfred1> it must be hard to park a car so all the rims are right side up
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[22:01:46] <andypugh> The AMC Pacer looks a fair bit like: http://www.greatescapecars.co.uk/images/library/files/Jensen_Interceptor01sml.jpg
[22:02:08] <andypugh> And those are fairly cool.
[22:02:23] <pfred1> yeah that looks like a poorly done Corvette or something
[22:02:27] <pfred1> it isn't bad
[22:03:10] <andypugh> Argualby the Interceptor is a _well_ done Corvette.
[22:03:33] <pfred1> http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2343/1543825563_76a0622fa3_z.jpg
[22:03:34] <andypugh> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jensen_Interceptor
[22:03:57] <pfred1> andypugh if someone offeres you a vette or the intercepter be smart and take the vette
[22:04:08] <andypugh> Mmm, OK, that particular Corvette is lovely.
[22:04:24] <pfred1> yeah it is worth about a hel a mil
[22:04:27] <pfred1> half a mil
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[22:05:40] <pfred1> a 1963 split window
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[22:06:58] <pfred1> with ben hur spinners
[22:08:11] <pfred1> this is my favorite car I think http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b8/AC_Cobra_1.jpg
[22:08:18] <pfred1> an AC Cobra
[22:08:30] <pfred1> that is a sports car
[22:08:33] <andypugh> I think, for the money, I would go for the similar-looking Bristol Fighter T (1012hp): http://cars.uk.msn.com/features/images.aspx?cp-documentid=154752409&page=20
[22:08:54] <pfred1> coberas you're talking a mil+
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[22:09:40] <pfred1> andypugh looks like something Dr. Who would drive
[22:10:01] <andypugh> Is that a bad thing?
[22:10:18] <pfred1> ah I don't know I wouldn't say it is the ultimate cool car
[22:11:16] <pfred1> there is a lot to be said about a 58 vette too for cool factor http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ea/Corvette-je-1958.jpg
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[22:13:23] <pfred1> there are pretty collectible http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/eb/1955_Mercedes-Benz_300SL_Gullwing_Coupe_34_right.jpg
[22:14:31] <pfred1> when I was young I wanted one of these because you could get them pretty cheap http://theselvedgeyard.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/panteraad.jpg?w=600&h=810
[22:15:11] <pfred1> they'd do 185 MPH stock off the showroom floor too
[22:15:14] <andypugh> Somebody at work appears to won an Al Camimo, That looke useful in an impractical way: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:1968_El_Camino.jpg That is also a _really_ unusual thing to find in the UK.
[22:15:42] <pfred1> heh my uncle used to have a lot of El Caminos
[22:15:54] <pfred1> Pete liked those
[22:17:02] <andypugh> yeah, Panteras are cool, but then my bike can do that speed, when it isn't broken <pout>. Did you see: https://plus.google.com/photos/108164504656404380542/albums/5747722155741347649/5867572345591306402?banner=pwa
[22:17:15] <andypugh> That is the second time that $500 part has done that.
[22:17:36] <pfred1> looks toasty
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[22:17:57] <pfred1> what was it supposed to be?
[22:18:24] <andypugh> The real problem is that it fills the engine with bits of magnet, that runs in the oil...
[22:18:35] <andypugh> It's the generator
[22:18:39] <pfred1> oh is that your magneto?
[22:19:11] <pfred1> hmm yes now that you mention it I can kind of see that is what it might have been
[22:19:52] <pfred1> I thought it might have been part of your transmission at first or something
[22:20:02] <andypugh> I think I can account for nearly all the magnets, but the plastic spacers? Can't find hardly any.
[22:20:11] <pfred1> something maybe a belt wraps around
[22:20:47] <andypugh> So, need the oil pan off. And that means exhaust off, and that hasn't moved in 9 years.
[22:20:48] <pfred1> that is a mess
[22:21:23] <pfred1> heat siezed it up so heat will free it up is what I always say about exhaust systems
[22:22:02] <pfred1> I torch that stuff til i can just about see through it then hit it with an impact gun usually comes right off if it don't it wasn't going to anyways
[22:22:03] <andypugh> Actually, it is geared direct to the crank. In fact one crank web is fomed as a gear specifically to drive that, and is also how the starter motor drive is introduced.
[22:23:19] <andypugh> The exhaust is 3" diameter titanium, and the coupling I need to split is right in the middle of the swinging arm casting. Things are _tight_ on bikes.
[22:23:37] <pfred1> kroil
[22:23:54] <pfred1> and keep applying it for like 3 months
[22:24:11] <pfred1> put a wrench on and tap it gently when you do
[22:24:31] <andypugh> I don't have three months. This is my only non-pedal-powered transport.
[22:24:38] <pfred1> yeah well
[22:24:54] <pfred1> another thing I say is then you shouldn't have broken it
[22:26:03] <pfred1> thing is if the hardware took 9 years to sieze up yo ucan't expect it to free up so quickly
[22:26:36] <pfred1> I find patience pays off with things like that
[22:26:47] <andypugh> I didn't break it, it broke itself. It was worse last time: http://www.bodgesoc.org/OhDear.jpg. That was 4 years and 40k miles ago.
[22:27:43] <andypugh> I think that this time rather less magnet has escaped.
[22:27:47] <pfred1> I have freed up some really corroded stuff
[22:28:20] <andypugh> It isn't corroded.
[22:28:27] <andypugh> (the exhaust, that is)
[22:28:45] <pfred1> it is the threads inside you need to be concerned about
[22:28:56] <pfred1> some of that alloy stuff gets impossible too
[22:29:44] <pfred1> what I find works the best is to tap a wrench back and forth as I work penetrating oil in
[22:29:57] <pfred1> kind of like tapping the hardware out
[22:30:06] <andypugh> This is a Titanium exhaust. It is 3" diameter and clamped together with a graphite sleeve. The problem is that it is huge and there is no way at all to exert a separating force.
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[22:30:45] <andypugh> Hmm, let me take a photo...
[22:30:47] <pfred1> thread anti-sieze never works for me either
[22:30:57] <pfred1> if anything it seems to make matters worse
[22:31:14] <pfred1> locktight can work though
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[22:31:44] <pfred1> least with locktite it stays as tight as it is supposed to and the locktite can keep stuff from really oxidizing
[22:32:32] <pfred1> but I've had real problems with non-ferrous alloy stuff
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[22:33:10] <pfred1> I think that stuff is why Heli-Coils were invented
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[22:35:39] <pfred1> oh you fried a Mesa board did you?
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[22:37:18] <andypugh> Yeah, but carelessness was involved.
[22:37:33] <pfred1> you tried to disco while it was energized?
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[22:38:27] <andypugh> Other way round. I reconnected not realising that the crowbar relay was welded, so the caps (2uF, 320V) were still charged.
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[22:39:27] <pfred1> oh you had relay contacts weld on you?
[22:39:49] <andypugh> Yeah. Par for the course playing with 320V DC
[22:40:00] <pfred1> I've researched spark quenching when I made my table saw starter
[22:40:08] <pfred1> ah DC
[22:40:24] <pfred1> not sure what they do to suppress that
[22:40:33] <pfred1> mercury wetted?
[22:40:59] <andypugh> I use sofware to attempt to not break at high voltage. It went wrong.
[22:41:36] <pfred1> well the other route is just have the hardware I guess
[22:42:07] <pfred1> can't use like a big SCR or something?
[22:42:42] <andypugh> I need normally-closed.
[22:42:53] <pfred1> ah
[22:44:59] <andypugh> Not great photos: The first is a joint where the bolts have simply gone missing. Titanium exhaust, carbon steel bolts. Then the rest are attempt to photograph the joint I need to split. If photons can't get in, then tools will struggle too. https://plus.google.com/photos/108164504656404380542/albums/5867949057156573393
[22:46:14] <pfred1> I hate to say it but you're going to have a real time of it there by the looks of it you know that already I guess
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[22:46:44] <pfred1> I'm telling you soak it with penetrant and be patient
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[22:47:11] <andypugh> Yeah.
[22:47:33] <pfred1> I hear Kroil is the best but I use PB Blaster
[22:47:58] <pfred1> although PB isn't as good as it used to be
[22:48:08] <pfred1> used to be the fumes just about killed you
[22:48:54] <pfred1> don't even waste your time with liquid wrench or WD-40
[22:50:04] <andypugh> Normally it would be a gas-axe and buy a new exhaust job, but this is titanium and costs.. Oh, look for yourself, Part 1: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/wps/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=yamahamc&a=456&b=14&c=0&d=-EXHAUST
[22:51:53] <pfred1> that is just crazy for an exhaust pipe what were you thinking?
[22:54:10] <andypugh> Currently the exaust is in one piece, I may be able to drp the whole thing, but it does loop through the rest of the bike in complex ways.
[22:54:18] <pfred1> if it was me I'd still use as much heat as i could while I worked it
[22:54:46] <andypugh> This does rather depend on the exhaust studs into the engine playing along.
[22:55:27] <andypugh> I can't really "work" it. It is looping through the frame and swingarm.
[22:55:58] <pfred1> http://www.kanolabs.com/
[22:56:07] <andypugh> I tried 5 years ago and gave up, and nothing has got free-er since.
[22:56:15] <pfred1> people in the know say that is the stuff
[22:56:47] <pfred1> you need some creepy oil
[22:58:17] <andypugh> There appears to be exactly one vendor of Kroil in the UK, and they only sell gun bore cleaner.
[22:58:42] <pfred1> yeah you need the penetrating oil
[22:59:03] <pfred1> it is supposed to be far and away the best stuff made by man
[22:59:36] <pfred1> but it ain't cheap or easy to get
[23:03:06] <pfred1> Kroil's high solvency penetrating oils first penetrate to one-millionth inch spaces to break the bond of rust and to provide lubrication at the first molecular level.
[23:03:21] <pfred1> sounds good to me!
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[23:07:56] <andypugh> Yeah, but is it true? I hear that chiropracty and homeopathy work even better on siezed bolts.
[23:09:49] <pfred1> I've never used Kroil myself but people who do I mean they get religious over the stuff
[23:10:18] <pfred1> stuff is supposed to be nothing short of a miracle in a can
[23:11:01] <pfred1> all I'm saying is the endorsements I've heard seem pretty sincere to me
[23:11:06] <andypugh> If it was _that_ good, surely it would be on sale everywhere?
[23:11:28] <andypugh> Like Mach3, for example. :-
[23:11:34] <pfred1> well hey betamax was way better than vhs and we all know who won that fight
[23:11:46] <pfred1> people aren't willing to pay for good stuff
[23:12:32] <andypugh> Not the same thing, unless Kroil is only actually useful on particular material specs.
[23:12:38] <pfred1> a can of kroil will set you back like 3 times or more what lesser products cost
[23:13:16] <pfred1> and as you've found it isn't even stocked a lot
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[23:13:25] <andypugh> More like 20x in my case, I would need to privately import it.
[23:14:03] <pfred1> OK I'll do a web search for something better than kroil see if anything turns up
[23:16:24] <pfred1> well now
[23:16:43] <pfred1> they say on this page that if you mix ATF fluid with acetone it is good
[23:17:29] <andypugh> This is one of those cases where if it cost twice as much then I would be more likely to buy it: http://www.frost.co.uk/drill-outs.html
[23:17:32] <pfred1> go 50/50
[23:17:48] <pfred1> ATF and acetone
[23:18:16] <andypugh> Hmm, so now I need to find a source of both ATF and Acetone?
[23:18:36] <andypugh> That sounds like twice the work of the first problem.
[23:20:38] <andypugh> Please disregard my obvious negativity. I may not be in the most optimistic of moods.
[23:21:50] <PCW> Yamaha should ante up for a new stator (and be at least interested on the failure mode)
[23:22:06] <PCW> s/on/in/
[23:23:14] <PCW> andypugh: minor bug in sserial: unsigned parameters handed negative values don't bellyache or at least bound to 0
[23:24:28] <pfred1> lots of folks seem to like Marvel Mystery Oil
[23:24:41] <PCW> Must be the name
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[23:26:58] <pfred1> andypugh plus lots are saying put a soldering iron tip on the hardware it might help
[23:27:20] <andypugh> PCW: I have been wondering about that, given recent forum posts. My code, not yours, you reckon?
[23:28:01] <andypugh> pfred1: soldering iron on a 3" titanium tube?
[23:29:19] <andypugh> pfred1: http://www.bodgesoc.org/fastners.faq
[23:32:03] <pfred1> andypugh it is the tube that is stuck together?
[23:32:16] <andypugh> Aye, that it be.
[23:32:40] <andypugh> Crimped together by the clamp, in fact.
[23:33:29] <pfred1> oh OK yeah I've only ever gotten that stuff apart using a torch on regular steel pipe
[23:33:51] <pfred1> kind of neat when you do it you can see like a shadow where the metal is crimped
[23:34:05] <andypugh> Aye, and this is big, and old, and inacessible
[23:34:10] <pfred1> there will be a dark spot where it is really crimped together
[23:34:20] <pfred1> then I wiggle them apart
[23:34:35] <pfred1> but that only works with regular exhaust pipe
[23:34:57] <andypugh> The way they thread through the bike makes wiggling unlikely.
[23:35:14] <pfred1> well the fact it isn't plain steel isn't good
[23:35:21] <andypugh> I have to hope that I can drop the whole thing.
[23:35:36] <pfred1> yeah if it is crimped you're done
[23:35:57] <pfred1> unless you can someohw get an expander in there
[23:36:24] <pfred1> but my success with expanders is hit and miss more miss
[23:37:23] <pfred1> titanium is on the soft side compared to old rusty steel though
[23:37:35] <andypugh> But that relies on the studs into the head (steel, into alloy, directly in the path of rain, crud and salt) coming undone. And if they strip out, Part 1 again: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/wps/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=yamahamc&a=456&b=14&c=0&d=-EXHAUST
[23:37:42] <Connor> andypugh: We need to reverse the Y direction on Pete's machine..
[23:37:50] <Connor> what do we need to change to do that ?
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[23:38:18] <PetefromTn> ...
[23:38:51] <andypugh> Connor: Encoder scale. (make it negative)
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[23:39:32] <andypugh> That will badly break the PID, so don't only do that, or there will be a runaway
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[23:40:01] <Connor> Umm. okay.
[23:40:18] <Connor> Don't do what? make the encoder scale negative.
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[23:40:48] <Connor> we can change the direction in the motor driver..
[23:41:01] <Connor> but would that not make the encoder backwards ?
[23:41:19] <andypugh> If you swap the encoder phases and two motor phases in the hardware then it will work. However I am pretty sure that there ought to be a software-only solution.
[23:42:10] <Connor> what's going on is.. the table in the forward most position is show -510mm.. (I.E the had at the rear of the table, which should be positive)
[23:42:16] <andypugh> OK, so make the encoder scale negative and reverse the motor driver any way that is convenient.
[23:42:43] <Connor> had = head
[23:43:04] <andypugh> By "forward" you mean "furthest from the operator"?
[23:43:11] <archivist> andypugh, flat ended pin punch to the side of bolt heads and a sharp tap (in as many directions as possible)
[23:43:29] <Connor> no. closest to the operator.
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[23:43:43] <Connor> head at the back of the table.
[23:43:54] <andypugh> Connor: Table or spindle?
[23:43:57] <pfred1> archivist impact is key for breaking up brittle oxides
[23:44:11] <archivist> pfred1, I know :)
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[23:44:35] <Connor> table closest to the operator.. resulting in the SPINDLE being on the back side of the table.
[23:44:36] <pfred1> archivist I ess so many people they tug they pull they use cheater pipes I'm like just tap it
[23:44:45] <Connor> We're reversed.
[23:44:54] <andypugh> Yeah, I know too. I wrote the FAQ on troublesome bolts.
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[23:45:42] <archivist> I also tap inwards to run a shock wave down the thread
[23:45:46] <Connor> as the table moves toward the operator.. the value should be going UP right ?
[23:45:47] <andypugh> Connor: Yes, I agree, you are. So negate the encoder scale and reverse the drive.
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[23:46:15] <pfred1> this is my latest rust project I've been working on: http://i.imgur.com/r5W20.jpg
[23:47:14] <andypugh> I work a fair bit on vehicle parts from the 19-teens rescued from fields.
[23:47:14] <pfred1> looks like it got lost in the hull of a boat for a couple of decades doesn't it?
[23:47:21] <archivist> pfred1, havnt we seen that pic before...still not done, or is it another
[23:47:52] <pfred1> archivist oh same one I suppose no I'm not completely done with it yet I have made some progress though
[23:48:18] <pfred1> http://i.imgur.com/DDVhuTu.jpg
[23:48:44] <andypugh> Bolts I can do, I have no concerns about removing the fasteners. Separating the clamped tubes, however, is a real challenge.
[23:49:23] <pfred1> the ohms zero potentiometer seems to have transmuted into a totally insulative material somehow
[23:49:38] <pfred1> I didn't even know that was possible
[23:50:16] <archivist> the rivets holding the track in the pot have probably corroded
[23:50:35] <skunkworks> I have heard - heat up and apply wax - like crayon . but I have never tried it. Manifold bolts always suck
[23:50:44] <skunkworks> (let it wick in)
[23:50:51] <pfred1> I pulled it all apart putting meter probes right on the resistor material inside it isn't conductive at all anymore
[23:51:58] <pfred1> I tried sanding it cleaning it
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[23:52:28] <andypugh> On monday I bought a 100% conductive jack-plug from Maplin, where, when the plug was in the socket everything conducted to everything else. I replaced it with a different one (free of charge) where the tip of the jack plug was not connected to either terminal...
[23:52:32] <pfred1> skunkworks I've heard of the wax trick too
[23:53:15] <archivist> andypugh, for larger round stuff I use two hammers, one as an anvil the opposite side of the place where I tap the item
[23:53:17] <pfred1> I wonder if you could use hydraulic force to get the pipes apart?
[23:53:23] <skunkworks> I had replace the turbos in a twin turbo.. I think I had to dill and re-tap 1/2 of them
[23:53:41] <pfred1> there is a trick for getting pilot bearings out where yo upack in grease then hit it with a punch
[23:53:55] <pfred1> what if you filled the whole exhaust up with grease and pressurized it?
[23:54:38] <andypugh> pfred1: An interesting idea, if I could bank off all the necessary ends.
[23:55:06] <andypugh> pfred1: That would be a _lot_ of grease.
[23:55:27] <pfred1> yeah well it is a $1,700 pipe grease ain't that expensive
[23:55:48] <andypugh> Air would be cheaper (even in the UK air is currently free)
[23:56:19] <andypugh> pfred1: The Cat might cope poorly...
[23:56:20] <pfred1> maybe I don't think you can get air up to hydraulic pressues easily though
[23:56:55] <pfred1> fill it with grease then have a big dowel and just hammer it in
[23:56:57] <archivist> water for hydraulic abuse
[23:57:35] <pfred1> if it worked you'd have one hell of a story
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[23:59:01] <andypugh> Blocking the engine-end would be the hard part. I suspect U would just get grease pouring out the inlet ducts.
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